New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Braufessor]

Appreciate it guys. First batch was straight up RO, so looking forward to seeing how this batch turns out.

One other thing, I'm planning on buying a ph meter but for now I just grabbed some test strips from LHBS. If my mash ph is on the low side, should I add more CaCl to raise it up?

I would not mess with it - at least not based on pH strips...... especially if the pH strips are not really good ones like colorphast strips. Cheap pH strips and cheap pH meters are probably worse than just using a water calculator with no pH meter at all.

If you use 100% RO water and those additions with this grain bill - your pH will be right in the ballpark of where you want it.

A cheap pH strip might lead you to believe you are "off" when you are actually fine.

Plus - if anything, your pH is going to be a touch to the high side (but within range). And, CaCl will not raise your pH, it will lower it.

 

[nnfdcane]

I've never messed with ph before, I'll invest in a nice meter and worry about it then. Thank you!

 

[doublebogey10]

Gonna be brewing another batch of this later this afternoon and have a couple questions.

1) I do BIAB 3 gallon batches and use 5 gallons of RO with no sparge water. Just to be clear, I should be using 1 tsp of Cacl + 1/2 tsp of gypsum in total to get me in the ballpark, correct?

With BIAB, when are you adding these?

 

[nnfdcane]

Good question, lol. I was just planning on adding right before I put in my grain

 

[hezagenius]

I need some yeast help on this.
Heading out of town first thing tomorrow a.m. Went by local shop today to get grain for my third round of NE style. Back in town on Monday morning and going to brew then.
LHBS out of London III and out of Conan. Will check shops based on my trip this weekend to find 1318 (Of first two batches, like 1318 better than Conan), but I have Wyeast West Yorkshire on hand. If I can't find 1318 or suitable replacement and end up brewing on Monday, any thoughts on West Yorkie with this style?
Also, beyond London III and Conan, other alternative yeasts for this style?

I've had success with WLP007 with this style.

 

[LateraLex]

With BIAB, when are you adding these?

I add mine right as I initially heat up the water.

 

[nnfdcane]

To my fellow BIABers, if you haven't yet, go grab yourself a Wilser bag. I don't think a single grain got through my bag during mash. Best $20 I've ever spent!

 

[crusader1612]

Good question, lol. I was just planning on adding right before I put in my grain

i add mineto the grain itself, while my waterheats up. That way when i stire it all into the mash it all gets done easily and evenly etc.

(Grainfather Brewer)

 

[WiscoBrewer]

I've had success with WLP007 with this style.

Second on the WLP007

 

[JoeMamasIPA]

@braufesser quick question, you may have answered this but I'm not all the way through the thread. Do you transfer from primary under pressure into a purged keg? The reason I ask, I transfer from a PET carboy under CO2 pressure into an 02 purged keg. I took your idea of transferring into a keg and dry hopping in the keg with the hop screen and dip tube screen. My only concern is that since I transfer into the out port to fill the keg. I'm wondering if this dip tube screen will work against me. As in it will catch any Hop debris coming into the keg and clog up my dip tube and theoretically stopping me from transferring into the keg. Any thoughts? Have you done it this way or anyone else in the forum tried it this way????

I do this without issue, the particles you may have transferred get pushed back out in the first pour. No big deal.

 

[MerlinWerks]

With BIAB, when are you adding these?

I believe Martin Brungard recommends adding any salts/acids to the strike liquor before heating. I don't remember the exact reason, but if you search a bit you'll probably find it.

 

[EcuPirate07]

I do this without issue, the particles you may have transferred get pushed back out in the first pour. No big deal.

Interesting. I wanna try it but I'm still apprehensive I'm sitting at 9oz of hops right now. Gonna add the last 3oz here in the next couple days. I really want to transfer to a keg so I can start carbing as I'm doing the last Hop addition. Kind of killing 2 birds with 1 stone.

 

[JJ900]

so they say. No idea how they do it. Perhaps my palate is not sophisticated enough to pick it up. I've been bottling for 26 years and not yet had a beer that I could detect any oxygenation or staling.

Moto you should post in that thread so we can compare notes on what your NEIPA process looks like versus other bottlers.

 

[stickyfinger]

I believe Martin Brungard recommends adding any salts/acids to the strike liquor before heating. I don't remember the exact reason, but if you search a bit you'll probably find it.

if u use acid, you should add before heating so the alkalinity doesn't get messed up. it's explained in his instructions. the other salts can be added at your convenience.

 

[whovous]

I believe Martin Brungard recommends adding any salts/acids to the strike liquor before heating. I don't remember the exact reason, but if you search a bit you'll probably find it.

I believe it is because some of these salts do not dissolve particularly well, but they dissolve better in cold water than they do in hot water.

 

[doublebogey10]

To my fellow BIABers, if you haven't yet, go grab yourself a Wilser bag. I don't think a single grain got through my bag during mash. Best $20 I've ever spent!

Co-sign.

 

[leesmith]

All minerals and acids should be thoroughly mixed into the water BEFORE doughing in. Another brewer just performed a simple experiment where he added minerals and acid to a test mash and then mixed to a degree that he thought was thorough. He measured pH and temperatures at various points in the mash and was surprised to see at lot of variation even though he thought the mixing was good. Adding the minerals and acid beforehand, avoids the pH variation.

Found the above in another thread.

While he doesn't talk about heating I think he does on the actual spreadsheet.

It's good practice to make sure your minerals are dissolved well before the mash.

If you wanted to measure the ph of your water before mashing but after the mineral and acid additions...it would make sense to keep the water at room temp in order to get an accurate reading (and not have to cool it down).

I frequently make acid additions to hot wort in order to drop the ph for making sour beers and sometimes I'll add some to a really hoppy beer preboil to make sure the ph is as close to 5.2 as possible. So it's not about the effectiveness of the acid to drop the ph in hot wort.

Just looked at the spreadsheet; it's because the act of heating the water can change the alkalinity of the water and change the amount of acid needed to hit the target mash ph. In order for the predictions of the spreadsheet to be accurate it needs to be done this way.

 

[nnfdcane]

So I brewed my latest batch Thursday night, used Imperial Citrus yeast this time. Chilled to 63, pitched my yeast and into my freezer. Friday morning I checked on it and it looked like a carbonated soda! Checked on it again this morning and my krausen has already dropped! I'm still fairly new to brewing, but I've never seen such a vigorous fermentation. Didn't someone else use this yeast somewhere in this thread? Did you have a similar result with this yeast?

 

[nnfdcane]

Nm

 

[bkboiler]

I brewed this beer's malt bill and water profile yesterday, but used s-05 yeast for simplicity and only nugget hops(i have a # of them to use).
I had to substitute phosphoric acid for the lactic, but i used only a tiny amount..
i am gonna see if i can get Bru'N to work on my phone...should've calculated more precisely...
i'll report back with how it turns out! fermenting away happily right now! will do a stage of primary dry hops after cold crash and then racking into keg with more keg hops!

 

[anteater8]

So I brewed my latest batch Thursday night, used Imperial Citrus yeast this time. Chilled to 63, pitched my yeast and into my freezer. Friday morning I checked on it and it looked like a carbonated soda! Checked on it again this morning and my krausen has already dropped! I'm still fairly new to brewing, but I've never seen such a vigorous fermentation. Didn't someone else use this yeast somewhere in this thread? Did you have a similar result with this yeast?

Yes. I brewed this recipe with A20 Citrus and was totally thrown off by how quickly fermentation started and ended. I actually added my primary dry hop at day 2 or 3.

 

[nnfdcane]

Yes. I brewed this recipe with A20 Citrus and was totally thrown off by how quickly fermentation started and ended. I actually added my primary dry hop at day 2 or 3.

Yeah I added my first dose of dry hops this morning (day 2). So how did your beer turn out?

 

[Tarpon87]

Brewed a citra mosaic azacca today, my first brew ever. Things were going smoothly until the boil. Not used to my burner yet, I had way too much heat. Fought foam for 30 min before I realized to turn the heat way down. Foam dropped, had my hot break and the last 30min went fine. Once I had the wort cooled to pitching temp I realized I had boiled off way too much water. Only put 3.75gal in the fermenter, was shooting for 5.5 (had 7gal at the end of the mash). Boiled some more water on the stove, cooled to pitching temp in an ice bath, added to fermenter and pitched my yeast. Hopefully it still comes out OK. What do you guys think?

 

[anteater8]

Yeah I added my first dose of dry hops this morning (day 2). So how did your beer turn out?

It was good but not as good as Conan/1318. Strong belgian flavor the first couple days, but that kind of mellowed into more a bubble gum flavor which worked better with the tropical hops. I also fermented at 72 for what it's worth. Didn't get as much of a "bursting with hops" character. I think if I try it again I'd layer in some Centennial or Simcoe, which might work with the slightly lighter body/crisper feel.

 

[mintyice]

Just picked up some Imperial Juice. I'll try it out in a NEIPA soon.

 

[jpb2716]

I have done a few batches recently with no dry hop keg - both dry hops in primary and then transfer down dip tube.... no screen on dip tube. That has worked well. My beers drop out pretty well, with most debris falling into cone of SS brew bucket.

Hey Brau,

When you do all of your dry hopping in the primary, are you cold crashing before transferring to the serving keg or just dealing with whatever hop debris is still left in suspension?

Thanks again!

 

[Braufessor]

Hey Brau,

When you do all of your dry hopping in the primary, are you cold crashing before transferring to the serving keg or just dealing with whatever hop debris is still left in suspension?

Thanks again!

I don't cold crash. I just let it settle out.... That may or may not work for everyone depending on process/system.

 

[grassfeeder]

Just picked up some Imperial Juice. I'll try it out in a NEIPA soon.

just blew a keg of mine using this yeast. Absolutely love it. Also make sure to try out the Imperial Dryhop yeast as well.

 

[BrewinSoldier]

Mine is done as well..Came out too dry, which had to do with my FG being 1.005. still very drinkable but not as sweet as Julius or some others like I was hoping for. Next time I may try using Conan instead of 1318. If I do use 1318 again, it won't be with a starter.

 

[jjw5015]

Mine is done as well..Came out too dry, which had to do with my FG being 1.005. still very drinkable but not as sweet as Julius or some others like I was hoping for. Next time I may try using Conan instead of 1318. If I do use 1318 again, it won't be with a starter.

I wouldn't not use a starter, just mash higher next time