New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I’ve recently found out a lot of big name hazy breweries are using adjuncting with maltodextrin
It makes sense, some of these hazies are so sweet, seems like it would be hard to do with mash temps alone.

Have you heard anything from Fidens? I think Jasper is one of the best beers I've ever had. Super fluffy and full-bodied with a nice sweet-ish finish. I've only had triple jasper once and that was unreal.
 
I wonder what % of Malto they’re using?
If Brujos is finishing around 1.022, I would have had to add 1 lb (almost 5%) of maltodextrin to hit that FG in the beer I just brewed. Conceptually, I don't love the sound of that... but I can't argue with their results so I'll probably have to try at least half that amount next time.
 
It makes sense, some of these hazies are so sweet, seems like it would be hard to do with mash temps alone.

Have you heard anything from Fidens? I think Jasper is one of the best beers I've ever had. Super fluffy and full-bodied with a nice sweet-ish finish. I've only had triple jasper once and that was unreal.
Though the info was not from anyone currently at the brewery but someone who is really in on the know with them, he said they use maltodextrin in beers. Idk which ones but I trust who told me. He’s the guys that wouldn’t say it unless he knew.
 
Wow, mid 20 range is high IMO. I’ve never had a Fidens beer, but I can see it being useful. Guess the only way to know is to brew and use the malto. I talk myself out of it every time I pick it up.
 
Wow, mid 20 range is high IMO. I’ve never had a Fidens beer, but I can see it being useful. Guess the only way to know is to brew and use the malto. I talk myself out of it every time I pick it up.
If you have 30-40 ibus in an ipa and finish in the 20s, you’ll def be in balance enough that it won’t finish sweet
 
Tried out Cellar Science - Hazy for the first time. I pitched one pack dry into a 1.055 Strata Mosaic wort. 36 hour lag time. Longest lag time ever in well over 200 batches, but she's ripping now. I've been told it's dry 1318, but I don't see much online about it. Cellar Science website seems like it's written by AI.
 
Tried out Cellar Science - Hazy for the first time. I pitched one pack dry into a 1.055 Strata Mosaic wort. 36 hour lag time. Longest lag time ever in well over 200 batches, but she's ripping now. I've been told it's dry 1318, but I don't see much online about it. Cellar Science website seems like it's written by AI.
What temp did you pitch?
 
The malto discussion is interesting to me. Overall I’m happy with my hazies but the one area I would like to improve is Imttpically blow past my FG target. I think it’s mainly I’m still pretty new and have spent all of my focus on the cold side mostly to keep out oxygen and my hot side is about as simple as it gets and I don’t have good control of mash temp. I just ordered some new equipment to hopefully correct that but if it doesn’t some malto questions….

If they are using it to adjust FG and not a % how when are they adding it?

Also man a quick google search of maltodextrin isn’t making me want to use it a lot either
 
The malto discussion is interesting to me. Overall I’m happy with my hazies but the one area I would like to improve is Imttpically blow past my FG target. I think it’s mainly I’m still pretty new and have spent all of my focus on the cold side mostly to keep out oxygen and my hot side is about as simple as it gets and I don’t have good control of mash temp. I just ordered some new equipment to hopefully correct that but if it doesn’t some malto questions….

If they are using it to adjust FG and not a % how when are they adding it?

Also man a quick google search of maltodextrin isn’t making me want to use it a lot either
Maltodextrin is the “unfermentable” sugar you gain from mashing. For a lack of a better explanation, it is your final gravity/body.

The maltodextrin you buy is just an isolated product of it
 
Maltodextrin is the “unfermentable” sugar you gain from mashing. For a lack of a better explanation, it is your final gravity/body.

The maltodextrin you buy is just an isolated product of it
I'm aware of what it is - question was more around how people are using it. You mentioned it's a FG they are looking for not really a percentage. Trying to get my mind around that. If they are adding it in the boil (I assume that is when) then that have to be calculating a % from the target FG I would think. Maybe I'm just not understanding your previous statement.
 
I'm aware of what it is - question was more around how people are using it. You mentioned it's a FG they are looking for not really a percentage. Trying to get my mind around that. If they are adding it in the boil (I assume that is when) then that have to be calculating a % from the target FG I would think. Maybe I'm just not understanding your previous statement.

You can add it at packaging to make up whatever FG you were targeting.
 
I'm aware of what it is - question was more around how people are using it. You mentioned it's a FG they are looking for not really a percentage. Trying to get my mind around that. If they are adding it in the boil (I assume that is when) then that have to be calculating a % from the target FG I would think. Maybe I'm just not understanding your previous statement.
I just meant it’s not that they are using a set percentage, saying they don’t just build a recipe and say we always use 5% malto. It’s more along the lines that they know where they want to finish, gravity wise, then based on the recipe and yeast, they will use the amount of malto to give them the gravity units they need.

For example, 1 lb of maltodextrin adds 40 gravity points in 1 gallon of water. If you added it to 5 gallons of wort, your Og (and FG since it’s unfermentable) will rise by 8 points.

So when planning a recipe, you can take your attenuation/final gravity you typically get with a recipe and then calculate the maltodextrin based on how many points you would need to finish at your intended FG
 
Last edited:
I'm aware of what it is - question was more around how people are using it. You mentioned it's a FG they are looking for not really a percentage. Trying to get my mind around that. If they are adding it in the boil (I assume that is when) then that have to be calculating a % from the target FG I would think. Maybe I'm just not understanding your previous statement.

To build off what dgallo said, i like my hazies to finish around 1.020 or so. If I'm using a high attenuating yeast strain I may add some maltodextrin (to the boil, 10 mins) or dextrin malts to the recipe to raise the FG. For example, if I have a recipe that predicts my FG at 1.017, I'll add maltodextrin to the recipe to raise the FG to 1.020 - 1.022. You can use calculations like dgallo stated or most brewing software will do it for you. Maltodextrin is nice because you typically use it in the boil so you don't have to worry about mashing with it and worrying about efficiency.

I've read some people back sweeten beers with it post fermentation. I personally would be way too afraid of O2 introduction to attempt that.

To summarize, its just another tool in our tool belt to control the outcome of the final beer. You could control FG with mash temps but you would most likely need to use more malt and that introduces new problems, especially if your grain bill is already high in adjuncts like oats and wheat. That's probably one of the main reasons Sam from Brujos uses it. He said he gets really bad efficiency as it is, if he wanted to raise his FG without maltodextrin it would require higher mash temps which would result in lower fermentable sugars and a lower abv.
 
Last edited:
To build off what dgallo said, i like my hazies to finish around 1.020 or so. If I'm using a high attenuating yeast strain I may add some maltodextrin (to the boil, 10 mins) or dextrin malts to the recipe to raise the FG. For example, if I have a recipe that predicts my FG at 1.017, I'll add maltodextrin to the recipe to raise the FG to 1.020 - 1.022. You can use calculations like dgallo stated or most brewing software will do it for you. Maltodextrin is nice because you typically use it in the boil so you don't have to worry about mashing with it and worrying about efficiency.

I've read some people back sweeten beers with it post fermentation. I personally would be way too afraid of O2 introduction to attempt that.

To summarize, its just another tool in our tool belt to control the outcome of the final beer. You could control FG with mash temps but you would most likely need to use more malt and that introduces new problems, especially if your grain bill is already high in adjuncts like oats and wheat. That's probably one of the main reasons Sam from Brujos uses it. He said he gets really bad efficiency as it is, if he wanted to raise his FG without maltodextrin it would require higher mash temps which would result in lower fermentable sugars and a lower abv.
Hop creep loves maltodextrins
 
To build off what dgallo said, i like my hazies to finish around 1.020 or so. If I'm using a high attenuating yeast strain I may add some maltodextrin (to the boil, 10 mins) or dextrin malts to the recipe to raise the FG. For example, if I have a recipe that predicts my FG at 1.017, I'll add maltodextrin to the recipe to raise the FG to 1.020 - 1.022. You can use calculations like dgallo stated or most brewing software will do it for you. Maltodextrin is nice because you typically use it in the boil so you don't have to worry about mashing with it and worrying about efficiency.

I've read some people back sweeten beers with it post fermentation. I personally would be way too afraid of O2 introduction to attempt that.

To summarize, its just another tool in our tool belt to control the outcome of the final beer. You could control FG with mash temps but you would most likely need to use more malt and that introduces new problems, especially if your grain bill is already high in adjuncts like oats and wheat. That's probably one of the main reasons Sam from Brujos uses it. He said he gets really bad efficiency as it is, if he wanted to raise his FG without maltodextrin it would require higher mash temps which would result in lower fermentable sugars and a lower abv.
I find 1.020 is way too sweet for a neipa. I'm consistently finishing 1.012-1.015 and even that can be too sweet if not hopped enough. I was doing a single infusion 152F for years, but last batch I step mashed, which upped my efficiency like crazy. I still ended up around 1.015 but my abv went from 7 to 8.5%. Was probably my best neipa yet. Forever tweaking!
 
To build off what dgallo said, i like my hazies to finish around 1.020 or so. If I'm using a high attenuating yeast strain I may add some maltodextrin (to the boil, 10 mins) or dextrin malts to the recipe to raise the FG. For example, if I have a recipe that predicts my FG at 1.017, I'll add maltodextrin to the recipe to raise the FG to 1.020 - 1.022. You can use calculations like dgallo stated or most brewing software will do it for you. Maltodextrin is nice because you typically use it in the boil so you don't have to worry about mashing with it and worrying about efficiency.

I've read some people back sweeten beers with it post fermentation. I personally would be way too afraid of O2 introduction to attempt that.

To summarize, its just another tool in our tool belt to control the outcome of the final beer. You could control FG with mash temps but you would most likely need to use more malt and that introduces new problems, especially if your grain bill is already high in adjuncts like oats and wheat. That's probably one of the main reasons Sam from Brujos uses it. He said he gets really bad efficiency as it is, if he wanted to raise his FG without maltodextrin it would require higher mash temps which would result in lower fermentable sugars and a lower abv.
Thanks that answers my question. Like you I would be worried about O2 doing it at the end. I just recently added a dry hopper to my equipment though so I could use that.

I think more likely once I get the new setup dialed in I would add it to the boil like you mentioned. As long as things are consistent I would expect a fairly consistent amount required
 
Yes lots of hops + maltodextrin is hop creep heaven.
Technically it’s really only the addition of a sizable dryhops. Everyone has their preferences but with proper process and storage coldside, Hop creep will not occur
 
I find 1.020 is way too sweet for a neipa. I'm consistently finishing 1.012-1.015 and even that can be too sweet if not hopped enough. I was doing a single infusion 152F for years, but last batch I step mashed, which upped my efficiency like crazy. I still ended up around 1.015 but my abv went from 7 to 8.5%. Was probably my best neipa yet. Forever tweaking!
Forever tweaking indeed! I need to start doing split batches to test side by side results.

I'm currently working on my final pH. Most of my hazies finish around 4.4-4.5, going to try and get that up to 4.7 to see if it helps "round the beer" out. I've been degassing some commercial brews and I was surprised to see how high the packing pH was.
 
Forever tweaking indeed! I need to start doing split batches to test side by side results.

I'm currently working on my final pH. Most of my hazies finish around 4.4-4.5, going to try and get that up to 4.7 to see if it helps "round the beer" out. I've been degassing some commercial brews and I was surprised to see how high the packing pH was.
You really shouldn’t ever go above 4.6. That is the threshold where beer is safe Anything above 4.6, harmful bacteria can live, even with alcohol present.

A brewery will get in trouble if a beer is tested and the ph is above 4.6
 
Last edited:
Forever tweaking indeed! I need to start doing split batches to test side by side results.

I'm currently working on my final pH. Most of my hazies finish around 4.4-4.5, going to try and get that up to 4.7 to see if it helps "round the beer" out. I've been degassing some commercial brews and I was surprised to see how high the packing pH was.
@Dgallo said, try to keep your packaging pH on the lower side.

The way I realized my beer was too sweet was by sharing with my local brewery. Without anything side by side to compare, it's really hard to gauge. My first neipas were thinner body and too sweet when compared side by side to commercial neipas. I was able to tweak my recipe over the years to better hold up to a side by side comparison to my local guy's hazies (which are excellent). The biggest "complaint" I get now is that even my 8.5% and higher neipas do not taste like 8.5%+! It's scary how easy the alcohol is hidden.
 
Tried out Cellar Science - Hazy for the first time. I pitched one pack dry into a 1.055 Strata Mosaic wort. 36 hour lag time. Longest lag time ever in well over 200 batches, but she's ripping now. I've been told it's dry 1318, but I don't see much online about it. Cellar Science website seems like it's written by AI.
I am almost positive that is this yeast from AEB. I would be curious if this one performs similar to other dry yeast like Lallemand's Verdant or New England.
https://www.aeb-group.com/us/fermoale-new-e-14724/500g_179
 
I am almost positive that is this yeast from AEB. I would be curious if this one performs similar to other dry yeast like Lallemand's Verdant or New England.
https://www.aeb-group.com/us/fermoale-new-e-14724/500g_179
It certainly could be. The packaging left a lot to be desired. It wasn't vacuum sealed, and the packet wasn't cut precisely. Looked like it was repackaged. The description is different though.

https://cellarscience.com/products/hazy-dry-beer-yeast
 
i've had a love hate relationship with columbus in the dry hop for many years now. i try some sometimes and it makes an amazing beer and the next time it makes it awful. i had two thoughts. the last time i used it and liked it was when i used columbus lupo. maybe i should stick with that? the second thought is that i should just skip columbus in the dry hop from now on and find a hop that gives some dank character without the variability in flavor. what other hops can give me some dank character without ruining the beer?
 
I like to get dankness from hot side additions as opposed to the dry hop. Maybe some strata hot side would help? I like to use simcoe as a bittering addition, like ya know the 60 min addition that ppl skip in this style, well it adds some dankness that I enjoy. But as far as a dank hop on the cold side I'm not sure, I mean I probably wouldn't go throwing chinook in a dryhop for a neipa. But who knows, that could be exactly what you're looking for.
 
If Brujos is finishing around 1.022, I would have had to add 1 lb (almost 5%) of maltodextrin to hit that FG in the beer I just brewed. Conceptually, I don't love the sound of that... but I can't argue with their results so I'll probably have to try at least half that amount next time.
I get to that without malto in mine, I mash at 156ish for my single NEIPAs, I mash at 158 to 160 for NE Pale ales to get 1.018-1.022
 
i've had a love hate relationship with columbus in the dry hop for many years now. i try some sometimes and it makes an amazing beer and the next time it makes it awful. i had two thoughts. the last time i used it and liked it was when i used columbus lupo. maybe i should stick with that? the second thought is that i should just skip columbus in the dry hop from now on and find a hop that gives some dank character without the variability in flavor. what other hops can give me some dank character without ruining the beer?
Maybe some Apollo?
Apparently it's what they use in the dry hop for Treehouse Julius.
 
I like to get dankness from hot side additions as opposed to the dry hop. Maybe some strata hot side would help? I like to use simcoe as a bittering addition, like ya know the 60 min addition that ppl skip in this style, well it adds some dankness that I enjoy. But as far as a dank hop on the cold side I'm not sure, I mean I probably wouldn't go throwing chinook in a dryhop for a neipa. But who knows, that could be exactly what you're looking for.
Columbus is a tough one, can get sulfur onion from it of you have a bad lot, and its very impactfull so a little goes a long way.
Supposedly the lupomax gets selected for "consistency" whatever that means, I've had sulfury lupomax columbus as well and then its concentrated.
So best used sparingly perhaps in pellet form and added with some fermentation left to blow off that sulfur
 
That beer tastes nothing like Julius. I've brewed it a few times.
OK, must be good though if you brewed it a few times.
I have 200g of Apollo I want to use up so might try it.
Never had a Julius so I wouldn't be comparing, just want a good beer.
I'll also skip mixing the yeast I'd just pick one of S04 or Verdant
 
Back
Top