New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[doublebogey10]

I'll never use Equinox again. The risk is not worth the reward. I wouldn't be surprised if they renamed it due to its terrible reputation

Renamed it due to trademark issue, right? I've heard both Chevrolet (doubtful) and Lagunitas (more likely; he sues everyone) as root cause.

Re-branded as Ekuanot, I think.

I've used it a few times but have never gotten this green pepper thing.

 

[EndOfLine]

Here is my latest NE pale ale with WLP 800 Lager yeast!!

amarillo and chinook are the hops.

 

[Cavpilot2000]

Here is my latest NE pale ale with WLP 800 Lager yeast!!

amarillo and chinook are the hops.

Wow, that's gorgeous! Interesting choice on yeast - did you ferment at lager or ale temps?
Also, what did you use to give you that hue - crystal or another grain (I use vienna to add some color to mine, but it isn't quite that deep an orange)?

 

[plazola86]

Had a hydrometer sample of mine yesterday. Dry hopped with 2 oz each of el dorado, azzaca, citra on Friday. Yesterday made day 3, the sample was good but I was expecting more flavor and aroma from the massive dry hop addition. I'm planning on kegging Wednesday, not sure if I should give keg hopping another try or just go with the flavor and aroma that I already got.

 

[EndOfLine]

Wow, that's gorgeous! Interesting choice on yeast - did you ferment at lager or ale temps?
Also, what did you use to give you that hue - crystal or another grain (I use vienna to add some color to mine, but it isn't quite that deep an orange)?

Fermented at ale temps, (measured from thermalwell) 66, free rized up to 73f, no temp control at all. I wanted to see if Wlp 800 would give me any off flavors. It didn't, maybe a touch of fruit, but it is hard to tell because of the hops.

Sadly the color is a trick with the light and haze! If in a normal room it is a more straw like color, with a touch of orange.

Pils, and half a pound of honey malt.

 

[Cavpilot2000]

Fermented at ale temps, (measured from thermalwell) 66, free rized up to 73f, no temp control at all. I wanted to see if Wlp 800 would give me any off flavors. It didn't, maybe a touch of fruit, but it is hard to tell because of the hops.

Sadly the color is a trick with the light and haze! If in a normal room it is a more straw like color, with a touch of orange.

Pils, and half a pound of honey malt.

Thanks.
I inadvertently fermented a German Pilsner a few months ago in the mid 70's from pitch until past high kreusen using Saflager 34/70. I got a distinct apple cider flavor (not acetaldehyde green apple - more like it had a gallon of cider fermented in it). At first I thought I was screwed, but the flavor turned out to be absolutely delicious! In fact, it was probably the tastiest Pils I've ever had because of the additional apple note. It wasn't overpowering - in fact my German friends didn't even notice it and loved it, but it was definitely there and stayed until the keg kicked.
And I was really bummed when it did.

In fact, I was so happy with it that I want to try to recreate the "accident" that caused me to ferment warm because I want that beer again.

 

[girv]

Brewed this recipe twice now, thanks braufessor! I live in MA so have been enjoying these beers for years now and always wanted to try to recreate them.

First time I did it exactly as the recipe on page one, mashed at 153-154, fermentation was a bit warm since ths was during the summer and from what i remember day 1 was ~176 and I quickly made a swamp cooler and brought it down to mid-60's and let it slowly raise to 72. Beer still came out great, very much on the sessionable side.

For the most recent batch we added an extra 1lb of 2row and .5lb of oats, kept the warrior for bittering and did citra for all other hop additions. Just kegged it and its great, got the fermentation temps right at 62 and brought it up to around 68.

Both beers have been great, the smell is perfect for what I would want for the style as is the initial taste, but I feel like the body/finish is a bit thin. Any thoughts on this? Im looking more of that "juice" consistency Julius or Green has.

 

[stickyfinger]

Brewed this recipe twice now, thanks braufessor! I live in MA so have been enjoying these beers for years now and always wanted to try to recreate them.

First time I did it exactly as the recipe on page one, mashed at 153-154, fermentation was a bit warm since ths was during the summer and from what i remember day 1 was ~176 and I quickly made a swamp cooler and brought it down to mid-60's and let it slowly raise to 72. Beer still came out great, very much on the sessionable side.

For the most recent batch we added an extra 1lb of 2row and .5lb of oats, kept the warrior for bittering and did citra for all other hop additions. Just kegged it and its great, got the fermentation temps right at 62 and brought it up to around 68.

Both beers have been great, the smell is perfect for what I would want for the style as is the initial taste, but I feel like the body/finish is a bit thin. Any thoughts on this? Im looking more of that "juice" consistency Julius or Green has.

For increasing body, I think the following helps:

-less attenuating yeast
-using wlp095, conan, wy1450 or wy1318 for rounder profile
-shift more of the hops to the hopstand from the dryhop (dryhop can come off as a bit sharp/tannic)
-try different dryhop combos for less tannic element
-less bittering hops (or try none once and see how it goes)
-keep sulfate levels as low as possible

 

[stickyfinger]

For increasing body, I think the following helps:

-less attenuating yeast
-using wlp095, conan, wy1450 or wy1318 for rounder profile
-shift more of the hops to the hopstand from the dryhop (dryhop can come off as a bit sharp/tannic)
-try different dryhop combos for less tannic element
-less bittering hops (or try none once and see how it goes)
-keep sulfate levels as low as possible

Oh, I also forgot to say that, obviously, increasing the OG will result in more body (when using all-malt, not dextrose/sucrose.) If you want to keep lower alcohol and boost gravity, just mash higher and higher until you get what you want. I've found going below 1.060 it seems to be hard to get adequate body.

 

[Braufessor]

For increasing body, I think the following helps:

-less attenuating yeast
-using wlp095, conan, wy1450 or wy1318 for rounder profile
-shift more of the hops to the hopstand from the dryhop (dryhop can come off as a bit sharp/tannic)
-try different dryhop combos for less tannic element
-less bittering hops (or try none once and see how it goes)
-keep sulfate levels as low as possible

I agree with all of these.....

I would add:
You could go up a bit 155-157 on mash temps maybe.

Go more toward the recipe in post #1418 (1.06-1.065, 18-20% flaked), with higher chloride/lower sulfate.

Also - low carbonation can help too... keep it in the 2.0 range.

 

[murphyslaw]

I keep it pretty low.... 1.9-2.2 range probably.

You can try putting a liquid disconnect on your CO2 and pushing CO2 down the tube..... That may or may not work.

Make sure you vent the pressure off your keg before you take the post off to clean it out if you go that route..... guess how I know that

That is a job best done over a floor drain if possible.

So it turned out to be a clogged dip tube, which was easy enough to fix. It clogged again after a couple pours, though. I didn't have a filter, but I'll buy one and see if that helps.

The beers that did pour were delicious, though!

___________________________________
On another note, has anyone used conan to make an english porter or similar beer? I brewed one sunday more and than 48 hours after pitching some harvested WLP002 I had absolutely no activity. I just pitched 2 of my remaining 4 jars of the giga yeast vermont IPA slurry I had harvested from the blonde ale.

 

[jakturner]

So it turned out to be a clogged dip tube, which was easy enough to fix. It clogged again after a couple pours, though. I didn't have a filter, but I'll buy one and see if that helps.

The beers that did pour were delicious, though!

___________________________________
On another note, has anyone used conan to make an english porter or similar beer? I brewed one sunday more and than 48 hours after pitching some harvested WLP002 I had absolutely no activity. I just pitched 2 of my remaining 4 jars of the giga yeast vermont IPA slurry I had harvested from the blonde ale.

I used 3rd gen giga Vermont IPA on a founders porter clone with a little extra black patent thrown in. At first it was kind of weird with the roast and peachy flavor, but after a month or two it mellowed out and the beer had a super silky mouth feel, much better than the us-05 ones I had done in the past. On a side note, I did top crop the conan on this batch and pitched into a NEIPA with mango puree, so maybe top cropping the yeast caused more peachy flavor to come out? it did come across stronger than any of my IPAs and that was the only time I have top cropped this yeast.

 

[girv]

I agree with all of these.....

I would add:
You could go up a bit 155-157 on mash temps maybe.

Go more toward the recipe in post #1418 (1.06-1.065, 18-20% flaked), with higher chloride/lower sulfate.

Also - low carbonation can help too... keep it in the 2.0 range.

Awesome thank you both for all the advice. I forgot to include but I used 1318 for both batches and really like it, think I will keep that the same in future batches. For the next batch I will up the grains even more, then maybe try the higher mash temp.

 

[murphyslaw]

http://brulosophy.com/2017/02/09/br...rmont-ale-conan-in-neipa-exbeeriment-results/

Tasters could not tell the difference between 1318 and Conan. The haze was also more pronounced, and lasted longer, with 1318.

 

[motosapiens]

Your words disappoint me.

i lost interest in nitro once i found it was just a marketing trick to simulate cask ales.

 

[crusader1612]

i lost interest in nitro once i found it was just a marketing trick to simulate cask ales.

Cask Ales are much better. nothing like a traditional beer engine to pull your own pint.

 

[schematix]

Cask Ales are much better. nothing like a traditional beer engine to pull your own pint.

I recently had a trip to the UK where i did my best to drink every cask ale i came across (which was easy, they are everywhere), and i have to say, I do not understand the allure of warm beer that is nearly flat, oxidized and has low alcohol content.

 

[Braufessor]

I recently had a trip to the UK where i did my best to drink every cask ale i came across (which was easy, they are everywhere), and i have to say, I do not understand the allure of warm beer that is nearly flat, oxidized and has low alcohol content.

Mmmmmmm.... some of my favorite beers I have always been a fan of these styles and tend to brew/enter them often in competitions.... Can't say I am a fan of "oxidized".... but, I like beer in the 40's/low 50's, low carbonation, and low ABV. I think the low carb and warmer temp really lets the flavors come through better than cold and with a carbonation bite. Actually, right now, I have an ordinary bitter, dark mild, scottish 70 all on tap. All between 3.5%-4%. Porter's are the other one that is really great on a beer engine.

I have a beer engine, but generally only break it out for parties as it is a excessive work and cleaning to use it for a pint or two. But, if I know I am going to have a bunch of people over, I will jump beer off into 3 gallon kegs and put it on the beer engine. It is gone that night, and no worry about oxygen.

 

[crusader1612]

I recently had a trip to the UK where i did my best to drink every cask ale i came across (which was easy, they are everywhere), and i have to say, I do not understand the allure of warm beer that is nearly flat, oxidized and has low alcohol content.

when donewell, Cask ales on a Beer Engine is brilliant, it is one of the best ways to drink beers. especially darker maltier beers.

I do need to correct you though.... (sorry)
* The beer is not warm, and is normally serve at room temperature or cellar temperature.
* while nearly flat, the low carbonation allows ESB's etc. to be enjoyed the way they were originally intended.
* If your drinking oxidised beer thats not an issue with the beer engine. its a brewing issue more than anything else. While the beer passes through a sparkler (or not in some cases) it will oxygenate the beer (this doesn't make the beer oxidised, but merely gives is head and helps to release some ofthose malty hoppy aromas. In most cases now, modern breweries use Bladders to run these but you can get proper casks still in some places.
(If you ever get the chance to drink Black Sheep Brewery of Cask, do that. the dark malty coffe and chocolate aromas are awesome!)

 

[schematix]

I think the low carb and warmer temp really lets the flavors come through better than cold and with a carbonation bite.

Agree. There's a lot of flavor in what is actually a pretty light beer. It's characteristics definitely make it sessionable though.

I do need to correct you though.... (sorry)
* The beer is not warm, and is normally serve at room temperature or cellar temperature.

That's warm to me

 

[plazola86]

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1486700681.238922.jpg

Kegged today. Can't wait to try it carbed up!

 

[hezagenius]

First time I've been able to do a side by side with Trillium (my benchmark for best NEIPA). I think I'm in the ballpark appearance-wise.

 

[crusader1612]

Agree. There's a lot of flavor in what is actually a pretty light beer. It's characteristics definitely make it sessionable though.









That's warm to me

"Sigh"

 

[abbysdad2006]

First time I've been able to do a side by side with Trillium (my benchmark for best NEIPA). I think I'm in the ballpark appearance-wise.

Damn! That looks spot on!!

 

[nnfdcane]

Had an OG of 1.056, after 6 days it dropped to 1.01. Took a reading today (day 8) and still at 1.01. Krausen has dropped but there is still a little bit of activity in the airlock. Just curious, how long are you guys leaving these in the fermenter? Should I keg this later today or leave it for a couple more days?

 

[Braufessor]

Had an OG of 1.056, after 6 days it dropped to 1.01. Took a reading today (day 8) and still at 1.01. Krausen has dropped but there is still a little bit of activity in the airlock. Just curious, how long are you guys leaving these in the fermenter? Should I keg this later today or leave it for a couple more days?

personally, I like leaving beers on the yeast 12-14 days even if they are "done" at 7-8-9 days. There are still things likely going on with the yeast and beer that are beyond simply eating sugars. The yeast will clean things up a bit with those extra days. I have had experiences where a beer was "done" in 7 days and I kegged it..... and ended up with acetaldehyde or other off flavors that I could have avoided by waiting a few more days probably.

 

[nnfdcane]

I'll give it a couple more days. Thanks!

 

[jmcquesten]

Had an OG of 1.056, after 6 days it dropped to 1.01. Took a reading today (day 8) and still at 1.01. Krausen has dropped but there is still a little bit of activity in the airlock. Just curious, how long are you guys leaving these in the fermenter? Should I keg this later today or leave it for a couple more days?

Are you keg hopping? If so, keg it and hop it. Then in 5 days, transfer off keg hops to a new keg. Also, since it's in a keg and you want to drink it fresh, hook up the co2. You'll be drinking hop juice at the 2 week mark.

 

[JohnConnor]

First time I've been able to do a side by side with Trillium (my benchmark for best NEIPA). I think I'm in the ballpark appearance-wise.

Is this the same recipe on this thread or one you made up?

 

[MerlinWerks]

personally, I like leaving beers on the yeast 12-14 days even if they are "done" at 7-8-9 days. There are still things likely going on with the yeast and beer that are beyond simply eating sugars. The yeast will clean things up a bit with those extra days. I have had experiences where a beer was "done" in 7 days and I kegged it..... and ended up with acetaldehyde or other off flavors that I could have avoided by waiting a few more days probably.

Do you have access to the latest BYO? (Jan/Feb 2017) Denny Conn's "Fast Lagers" article offers some insights on how this works. Apparently the "clean-up" does not work in the way I believe a lot of home brewers, myself included, think it does.

 

[emr25]

Can't beat the weather here in SE GA, getting ready to grill some filets, and a NE IPA homebrew!

I'm at 5 weeks from brew day, 3 weeks since kegging. Aroma may have dropped a touch, but the flavor is outstanding.

 

[Braufessor]

Do you have access to the latest BYO? (Jan/Feb 2017) Denny Conn's "Fast Lagers" article offers some insights on how this works. Apparently the "clean-up" does not work in the way I believe a lot of home brewers, myself included, think it does.

I should have access to it ..... have not gotten it in the mail yet. I will have to check it out. Be interesting to read it. I just know that when I try to turn a beer around in that 7-10 day window, it seems that is is kind of a 50/50 proposition as to it not tasting quite as good if I just let it go 12-14..... which seems to consistently give me good results.

 

[MerlinWerks]

Sure, you have to go with what works for you. It is an interesting read though...

 

[stickyfinger]

I should have access to it ..... have not gotten it in the mail yet. I will have to check it out. Be interesting to read it. I just know that when I try to turn a beer around in that 7-10 day window, it seems that is is kind of a 50/50 proposition as to it not tasting quite as good if I just let it go 12-14..... which seems to consistently give me good results.

can we have a quick recap? i don't get BYO

 

[jjw5015]

Hows this. Sry cant fix this pic

View attachment 1486826166806.jpg

 

[jjw5015]

Con't

View attachment 1486826215713.jpg

View attachment 1486826224514.jpg

View attachment 1486826232168.jpg

 

[stickyfinger]

awesome. thanks!

 

[MerlinWerks]

can we have a quick recap? i don't get BYO

@Braufessor, if this is too off-topic I will move it to it's own post. Obviously, if people want to discuss this in depth they should start a new thread.

(This is a paraphrased synopsis from Denny's BYO article which also references Palmer, White and Zainasheff)

It talks about the three phases of yeast's life cycle, adaptation, high growth and stationary. During adaptation they are consuming all the O2 you provided in the wort to make sterols and lipid reserves which will be used in the next phase.

In the rapid growth phase they are reproducing and creating ethanol and CO2 from the availble sugars in the wort. During this phase they will typically reproduce or "bud" four times until their lipid reserves are exhausted. At that point they are tired and enter the stationary phase, floccculate to the bottom and wait for a fresh batch of aerated wort to start the cycle over.

There is no "clean-up" or "maturation" phase, yeast will consume undesirable by-products during the high growth phase once the higher quality food i.e. maltose is all consumed. The trick is to create conditions in the fermenter so the yeast consume all the "good" sugars before they are done budding and start flocculating. The idea being that the still hungry yeast will now consume by-products such as diacetyl and acetaldehyde and "maturate" the beer.

To create these conditions you start to raise the temp once the beer has attenuated about 50% of the expected total attenuation, usually 2-3 days after pitching. This helps the yeast consume the good sugars and move on to consume by-products (before flocculating) without causing rapid and rampant growth which would create other off-flavors similar to fermenting too hot or uncontrolled to begin with.

 

[plazola86]

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1486828539.510536.jpg

Guess the home brew. They may look similar but Trilliums had way more aroma and more bitterness/flavor but not bad for the first attempt. Mine is on the right.

 

[ultravista]

plazola86 - what is your recipe and water treatment?