New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[plazola86]

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Kegged today. Can't wait to try it carbed up!

 

[hezagenius]

First time I've been able to do a side by side with Trillium (my benchmark for best NEIPA). I think I'm in the ballpark appearance-wise.

 

[crusader1612]

Agree. There's a lot of flavor in what is actually a pretty light beer. It's characteristics definitely make it sessionable though.









That's warm to me

"Sigh"

 

[abbysdad2006]

First time I've been able to do a side by side with Trillium (my benchmark for best NEIPA). I think I'm in the ballpark appearance-wise.

Damn! That looks spot on!!

 

[nnfdcane]

Had an OG of 1.056, after 6 days it dropped to 1.01. Took a reading today (day 8) and still at 1.01. Krausen has dropped but there is still a little bit of activity in the airlock. Just curious, how long are you guys leaving these in the fermenter? Should I keg this later today or leave it for a couple more days?

 

[Braufessor]

Had an OG of 1.056, after 6 days it dropped to 1.01. Took a reading today (day 8) and still at 1.01. Krausen has dropped but there is still a little bit of activity in the airlock. Just curious, how long are you guys leaving these in the fermenter? Should I keg this later today or leave it for a couple more days?

personally, I like leaving beers on the yeast 12-14 days even if they are "done" at 7-8-9 days. There are still things likely going on with the yeast and beer that are beyond simply eating sugars. The yeast will clean things up a bit with those extra days. I have had experiences where a beer was "done" in 7 days and I kegged it..... and ended up with acetaldehyde or other off flavors that I could have avoided by waiting a few more days probably.

 

[nnfdcane]

I'll give it a couple more days. Thanks!

 

[jmcquesten]

Had an OG of 1.056, after 6 days it dropped to 1.01. Took a reading today (day 8) and still at 1.01. Krausen has dropped but there is still a little bit of activity in the airlock. Just curious, how long are you guys leaving these in the fermenter? Should I keg this later today or leave it for a couple more days?

Are you keg hopping? If so, keg it and hop it. Then in 5 days, transfer off keg hops to a new keg. Also, since it's in a keg and you want to drink it fresh, hook up the co2. You'll be drinking hop juice at the 2 week mark.

 

[JohnConnor]

First time I've been able to do a side by side with Trillium (my benchmark for best NEIPA). I think I'm in the ballpark appearance-wise.

Is this the same recipe on this thread or one you made up?

 

[MerlinWerks]

personally, I like leaving beers on the yeast 12-14 days even if they are "done" at 7-8-9 days. There are still things likely going on with the yeast and beer that are beyond simply eating sugars. The yeast will clean things up a bit with those extra days. I have had experiences where a beer was "done" in 7 days and I kegged it..... and ended up with acetaldehyde or other off flavors that I could have avoided by waiting a few more days probably.

Do you have access to the latest BYO? (Jan/Feb 2017) Denny Conn's "Fast Lagers" article offers some insights on how this works. Apparently the "clean-up" does not work in the way I believe a lot of home brewers, myself included, think it does.

 

[emr25]

Can't beat the weather here in SE GA, getting ready to grill some filets, and a NE IPA homebrew!

I'm at 5 weeks from brew day, 3 weeks since kegging. Aroma may have dropped a touch, but the flavor is outstanding.

 

[Braufessor]

Do you have access to the latest BYO? (Jan/Feb 2017) Denny Conn's "Fast Lagers" article offers some insights on how this works. Apparently the "clean-up" does not work in the way I believe a lot of home brewers, myself included, think it does.

I should have access to it ..... have not gotten it in the mail yet. I will have to check it out. Be interesting to read it. I just know that when I try to turn a beer around in that 7-10 day window, it seems that is is kind of a 50/50 proposition as to it not tasting quite as good if I just let it go 12-14..... which seems to consistently give me good results.

 

[MerlinWerks]

Sure, you have to go with what works for you. It is an interesting read though...

 

[stickyfinger]

I should have access to it ..... have not gotten it in the mail yet. I will have to check it out. Be interesting to read it. I just know that when I try to turn a beer around in that 7-10 day window, it seems that is is kind of a 50/50 proposition as to it not tasting quite as good if I just let it go 12-14..... which seems to consistently give me good results.

can we have a quick recap? i don't get BYO

 

[jjw5015]

Hows this. Sry cant fix this pic

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[jjw5015]

Con't

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[stickyfinger]

awesome. thanks!

 

[MerlinWerks]

can we have a quick recap? i don't get BYO

@Braufessor, if this is too off-topic I will move it to it's own post. Obviously, if people want to discuss this in depth they should start a new thread.

(This is a paraphrased synopsis from Denny's BYO article which also references Palmer, White and Zainasheff)

It talks about the three phases of yeast's life cycle, adaptation, high growth and stationary. During adaptation they are consuming all the O2 you provided in the wort to make sterols and lipid reserves which will be used in the next phase.

In the rapid growth phase they are reproducing and creating ethanol and CO2 from the availble sugars in the wort. During this phase they will typically reproduce or "bud" four times until their lipid reserves are exhausted. At that point they are tired and enter the stationary phase, floccculate to the bottom and wait for a fresh batch of aerated wort to start the cycle over.

There is no "clean-up" or "maturation" phase, yeast will consume undesirable by-products during the high growth phase once the higher quality food i.e. maltose is all consumed. The trick is to create conditions in the fermenter so the yeast consume all the "good" sugars before they are done budding and start flocculating. The idea being that the still hungry yeast will now consume by-products such as diacetyl and acetaldehyde and "maturate" the beer.

To create these conditions you start to raise the temp once the beer has attenuated about 50% of the expected total attenuation, usually 2-3 days after pitching. This helps the yeast consume the good sugars and move on to consume by-products (before flocculating) without causing rapid and rampant growth which would create other off-flavors similar to fermenting too hot or uncontrolled to begin with.

 

[plazola86]

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1486828539.510536.jpg

Guess the home brew. They may look similar but Trilliums had way more aroma and more bitterness/flavor but not bad for the first attempt. Mine is on the right.

 

[ultravista]

plazola86 - what is your recipe and water treatment?

 

[plazola86]

80% base malt
8% oats
8% wheat
4% carapils
Fermented with 2gen Conan
RO water to start added salts to get 100 ppm calcium, 250 ppm sulfate, 100 ppm chloride.

 

[ultravista]

How many grams of sulfate & chloride to get to achieve the PPM?

 

[plazola86]

Depends on how many gallons your brewing with, you have to weigh them out per recipe. I use beer smith but you could use free software like brun water or ez water calculator to figure out additions.

 

[ultravista]

Got it - for your batch, how much did you use?

 

[olotti]

My latest ne dipa with Amarillo, citra, vic secret and gen 4 1318 yeast. Two weeks bottled and it's hop juice in another week should be peaking. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1486870211.356158.jpg

 

[arnobg]

My latest ne dipa with Amarillo, citra, vic secret and gen 4 1318 yeast. Two weeks bottled and it's hop juice in another week should be peaking. View attachment 388584

Looks good. What was your FG? Have you done a NE style IPA with Gen 1 1318? I'm about to brew this for the first time with a fresh pack of 1318 (in a starter of course) so just wondering what to expect.

 

[olotti]

Pour #2 View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1486871963.477830.jpg

 

[olotti]

Looks good. What was your FG? Have you done a NE style IPA with Gen 1 1318? I'm about to brew this for the first time with a fresh pack of 1318 (in a starter of course) so just wondering what to expect.

In this one it was supposed to be 1.015 but dropped to 1.012 but you'd never know it's super creamy. I did use 1318 on a neipa first gen and made a starter, it was a smaller beer 1.060 I believe and it attenuated fine. It's a finicky yeast but as long as you pitch it in the low 60's and let it free rise for primary ferm it's fine once i see the turbination start to clear in my carboy about day 5-7 I'll Move it upstairs where it's about 70 and let it go the rest of the way to clean up. But be forewarned even at 70 deg 1318 is a true top crop yeast that krausen usually never dies down like an American ale yeast so when I dry hop I'll sterilize the shaft of my plastic spoon and make a hole in the yeast then add my dry hops.

 

[murphyslaw]

One week after kegging. Really fantastic. Thanks Braufessor!

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[anteater8]

Brewing this today for the 7th time, using 100% Mosaic. I got all frustrated at the homebrew store because they were out of Marris Otter and I had to sub Golden Promise. Then I double check the recipe this morning to see the mash temp and notice Golden Promise is actually what it calls for... D'oh! Excited to see if it makes much difference, it's excellent with Marris Otter by the way.