New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[grassfeeder]

Question regarding Braufessor NE IPA (post #1418). I got my water tested and I've been playing around in Brun Water. What is the Water Volume (gal) for the Mash and then for the Sparge that need to be inputted?

I will vary based on the size of your batch, boil volume as well as grain weight. More than likely you're probably pretty close to 4 gallons for each but I know you didn't ask me.

 

[WoodsonNoles]

Ok one more total noob question: In BruNWater in the section on the Water Adjustment tab where it asks for Water Volume for the Mash and then Sparge should I put the actual amount I will be using or the total amount of water I'll be heating up? I always heat up more water than I'll need.

 

[TheHopfather]

Ok one more total noob question: In BruNWater in the section on the Water Adjustment tab where it asks for Water Volume for the Mash and then Sparge should I put the actual amount I will be using or the total amount of water I'll be heating up? I always heat up more water than I'll need.

"Total Water Additions" for Mash and Sparge are how much you'll be using of both for the batch. "Total Batch Volume" is how much wort you are planning to get into the fermentor.

If you are heating up more water than you are using, I would assume for the sparge, you should use the total amount (including the additional) in the sparge amount. Otherwise you'll end up diluting the sparge water and your profile won't be accurate.

 

[Braufessor]

+1^^^^

 

[WoodsonNoles]

"Total Water Additions" for Mash and Sparge are how much you'll be using of both for the batch. "Total Batch Volume" is how much wort you are planning to get into the fermentor.

If you are heating up more water than you are using, I would assume for the sparge, you should use the total amount (including the additional) in the sparge amount. Otherwise you'll end up diluting the sparge water and your profile won't be accurate.

Great assumed this. If I am heating up additional (strike) water than necessary as well (and then from there) pouring in a specific portion of that water to start the mash should I use the total volume of that for the Mash Total Volume water on the water adjustment tab iwthin BruNWater as well and treat that whole batch of water so it doesn't throw things off?

Also I can add all my additions (Lactic Acid, Gypsum, etc.) before I start to heat up my strike temp or should I just wait and add it when I add the specified amount of water to my grains to start the mash (if I did this option I realize my mash water volume within brunwater I can just use the actual water)

 

[Braufessor]

Every bit of water that goes into the beer at any stage should be treated with the appropriate grams/gallon ratio. So, you can either make the additions as you add the water or you can treat all of it right from the very beginning.
If you are dealing with a quart here or there - it is no big deal. If you are adding gallons.... it should be treated.

I add all mine before I start heating.

 

[WoodsonNoles]

Every bit of water that goes into the beer at any stage should be treated with the appropriate grams/gallon ratio. So, you can either make the additions as you add the water or you can treat all of it right from the very beginning.
If you are dealing with a quart here or there - it is no big deal. If you are adding gallons.... it should be treated.

I add all mine before I start heating.

Cannot thank you enough. My final question. For your NE IPA recipe I wanted to make sure I read your section on water correct. Is the part below what you are trying to get to by treating your water (so your desired water profile?)

Ca = 100
Mg = 5
Na = 13
Sulfate = 147
Chloride = 80
Bicarbonate = 16

 

[Braufessor]

Cannot thank you enough. My final question. For your NE IPA recipe I wanted to make sure I read your section on water correct. Is the part below what you are trying to get to by treating your water (so your desired water profile?)

Ca = 100
Mg = 5
Na = 13
Sulfate = 147
Chloride = 80
Bicarbonate = 16

Yes..... but, to be honest, I vary what I do with water. Basically, as long as the Sulfate and Chloride are both somewhere in the 75-150 range, you will be alright. I would say, recently, I have been going around 120ppm on both. Honestly, there is not a "huge" difference within that range in my opinion. Once you brew it a few times, you can kind of play around with it a bit and see if you have a preference.

 

[tomchukj]

Wow 1318 is a beast. Since I got my spiedel have not needed a blowoff tube. 1318 made me question that decision with this beer

 

[WoodsonNoles]

Yes..... but, to be honest, I vary what I do with water. Basically, as long as the Sulfate and Chloride are both somewhere in the 75-150 range, you will be alright. I would say, recently, I have been going around 120ppm on both. Honestly, there is not a "huge" difference within that range in my opinion. Once you brew it a few times, you can kind of play around with it a bit and see if you have a preference.

Do you mind explaining the below part a bit? Is this keg just storing the beer at room temperature or are you cooling it at a certain temperature? I'm guessing for the beer in the fermentor (before you move to the dry hopping keg) it sounded like you were just keeping it at 62-64 degrees?

That link below doesn't work anymore. I haven't kegged before but plan on getting the supplies this weekend. Im sure I'll find some articles on CO2 purging as that is a new one for me.

**Dry Hop #2 - Around day 12, transfer to CO2 purged dry hopping keg with
1.5 oz. Citra
1 oz. Mosaic
.5 oz. Galaxy
(I use this strategy: http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09...no-oxygen.html )

 

[Braufessor]

Do you mind explaining the below part a bit? Is this keg just storing the beer at room temperature or are you cooling it at a certain temperature? I'm guessing for the beer in the fermentor (before you move to the dry hopping keg) it sounded like you were just keeping it at 62-64 degrees?

That link below doesn't work anymore. I haven't kegged before but plan on getting the supplies this weekend. Im sure I'll find some articles on CO2 purging as that is a new one for me.

**Dry Hop #2 - Around day 12, transfer to CO2 purged dry hopping keg with
1.5 oz. Citra
1 oz. Mosaic
.5 oz. Galaxy
(I use this strategy: http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09...no-oxygen.html )

Here is the link - this one should work..... at least it worked for me: http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09/how-i-dry-hop-my-ipas-with-no-oxygen.html

I don't really do anything with temperature. My house has pretty stable temps with air conditioning. So, I start fermenting at 62-64 degrees. I finish and dry hop probably in the 68-70 range. No cold crashing. I do move the fermenter back to my basement a couple days before kegging and that is more in the 64 degree range.

Recently though, I have been just doing both dry hops in the primary fermenter and that has worked pretty well also. Several different approaches that can all work well and people have had success with.

 

[WoodsonNoles]

Here is the link - this one should work..... at least it worked for me: http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09/how-i-dry-hop-my-ipas-with-no-oxygen.html

I don't really do anything with temperature. My house has pretty stable temps with air conditioning. So, I start fermenting at 62-64 degrees. I finish and dry hop probably in the 68-70 range. No cold crashing. I do move the fermenter back to my basement a couple days before kegging and that is more in the 64 degree range.

Recently though, I have been just doing both dry hops in the primary fermenter and that has worked pretty well also. Several different approaches that can all work well and people have had success with.

Thans again! Yea was leaning toward doing both dry-hopping in the primary and then getting it to the keg. Was thinking Carbonating at 2.1 CO2/vol and serving at 38F or so. Sound about right?

 

[Braufessor]

Thans again! Yea was leaning toward doing both dry-hopping in the primary and then getting it to the keg. Was thinking Carbonating at 2.1 CO2/vol and serving at 38F or so. Sound about right?

Yep - I am not super precise on carbonation, but you want it around 2.0.

 

[Jmash]

Thans again! Yea was leaning toward doing both dry-hopping in the primary and then getting it to the keg. Was thinking Carbonating at 2.1 CO2/vol and serving at 38F or so. Sound about right?

Thats fine. It will take a while to carb unless you force carb first though

 

[marjen]

Thats fine. It will take a while to carb unless you force carb first though

You need to get a Blichmann quick carb! The thing is awesome for the patience challenged brewer. I will usually move to keg, put the keg in the keezer and then next day run it through the quickcarb for 45-60 mins. Boom ready to go.

 

[chuckeg15]

1st attempt at a NEIPA. Also, first time kegging. Definitely the best beer I have ever brewed.

 

[grassfeeder]

^ that looks just lovely! nice work!

 

[Braufessor]

1st attempt at a NEIPA. Also, first time kegging. Definitely the best beer I have ever brewed.

Awesome to hear..... looks great. Think I might have to go get a beer after seeing that.

 

[Sbe2]

Super crazy wow man... Attempted a TH SAP clone, used TYB Conan 3rd generation that I revived from Feb, went from 1.062 to 1.013 in 80 hrs. Fermented at 66f

Anyone else experience this?

 

[paarman]

Super crazy wow man... Attempted a TH SAP clone, used TYB Conan 3rd generation that I revived from Feb, went from 1.062 to 1.013 in 80 hrs. Fermented at 66f

Anyone else experience this?

I've had Conan take mine from 1.064 to 1.018 in around the same time... That was a fresh bought package too. I'm getting ready to use a 2nd generation of it this weekend, but first time around I was really impressed with how fast it worked.

 

[stickyfinger]

Just want to do an update on an awesome hop combo. did one with just over 1 oz/ gallon of simcoe in the hopstand for 90 mins and then did a dryhop with 4:4:1 ounces of citra:mosaic:denali in the dryhop for 6 gallons. Makes a very tropical beer with some of the mosaic resinous/dank and some light pineapple. fantastic! denali is a super strong hop so be careful with it for the pineapple character, but it is a great accent hop!

 

[stickyfinger]

on a side note, has anyone experimented with lupulin powder, aka LupuLN2, aka cryhops for IPAs? I am very excited about them but am not sure if they are worth the hype. I know Kimmich from Alchemist likes them in the whirlpool a lot. I thought maybe we can pack more hop flavor into our beers with less of the vegetal/tannic element that comes out, especially in lower ABV beers

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

on a side note, has anyone experimented with lupulin powder, aka LupuLN2, aka cryhops for IPAs? I am very excited about them but am not sure if they are worth the hype. I know Kimmich from Alchemist likes them in the whirlpool a lot. I thought maybe we can pack more hop flavor into our beers with less of the vegetal/tannic element that comes out, especially in lower ABV beers

Pint House Pint in Austin uses them. They say powder is added to the finished beer then after 5min, filtered out. PhP makes world class IPAs so apparently it works.

 

[stickyfinger]

Pint House Pint in Austin uses them. They say powder is added to the finished beer then after 5min, filtered out. PhP makes world class IPAs so apparently it works.

I'm wondering if the main advantage is less wort lost or if the hop character can be more intense without the vegetal. thanks for the info.

 

[Sbe2]

When does everyone sample their beer during the process? When fermenting, racking or out of the tap/bottle?

 

[degivens]

When does everyone sample their beer during the process? When fermenting, racking or out of the tap/bottle?

For the one I just made I took my first sample off the conical fermentor when blowoff activity began to slow down (day 4-ish w/ Conan @ 64-68F). Just to get a good feel for how much longer I have / if I need to ramp up to 70ish to squeeze any extra out of it etc..

If you're in a carboy I wouldn't bother sampling, wouldn't want to risk the oxygen exposure.

 

[mintyice]

When does everyone sample their beer during the process? When fermenting, racking or out of the tap/bottle?

Usually when racking to keg, and then once it's carbed.

 

[isomerization]

Do you mind explaining the below part a bit? Is this keg just storing the beer at room temperature or are you cooling it at a certain temperature? I'm guessing for the beer in the fermentor (before you move to the dry hopping keg) it sounded like you were just keeping it at 62-64 degrees?

That link below doesn't work anymore. I haven't kegged before but plan on getting the supplies this weekend. Im sure I'll find some articles on CO2 purging as that is a new one for me.

**Dry Hop #2 - Around day 12, transfer to CO2 purged dry hopping keg with
1.5 oz. Citra
1 oz. Mosaic
.5 oz. Galaxy
(I use this strategy: http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09...no-oxygen.html )

Here you go: http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09/how-i-dry-hop-my-ipas-with-no-oxygen.html

 

[Jmash]

Here you go: http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09/how-i-dry-hop-my-ipas-with-no-oxygen.html

And here's the link to Luke from Metabrewing's carboy to dryhop keg transfer without oxygen pickup. (Link in attached post is dead)

http://metabrewing.blogspot.com/

 

[Braufessor]

When does everyone sample their beer during the process? When fermenting, racking or out of the tap/bottle?

At this point.... I sample it about 5 minutes before it goes in the keg..... I pour off about a pint or so out of the fermenter to kind of blow out the yeast/hop debris before it goes into the fermenter. Other than that, I don't really sample it at all.