Newbie already made a mistake?

[BrewnWKopperKat]

If it's the first time ever you cook dinner you wouldn't go full blown Heston Blumenthal, right? Same goes for beer if you ask me...

"ever" and "full blown" suggest the only choices are two (somewhat) extreme starting points.

For a 3rd starting point, consider chapter 1 of How to Brew, 4th edition (2017). One may find that there are a number of easy to implement techniques (not yet part of 'forum wisdom' in 2023) that prevent a number of situations that cause 'bad beer' to be made.

 

[Stikius]

I think we need to agree to disagree on this. My point is, for a first brew, if the water tastes and smells ok it will most likely produce an ok beer as well. Probably not the best beer in the world (who knows?), but still drinkable and even enjoyable. It will not taste exactly as the author of the recipe intended, but still good enough for a first beer.
I don't believe my grandmother had access to Italian San Marzano tomatoes harvested the third week of August in the 1920's, but she could (most likely, I wasn't around to taste it) still cook a pretty decent tomato soup with local Swedish grown tomatoes.

I do however fully agree with you, that with total control over the main ingredient in beer (or in tomato soup for that matter) you will get a better end result (or at least a result you have better control over). If I would have aimed for a perfect beer the first time I brewed I would have been really disappointed (no matter how prefect the water I used was) and never brewed again though.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

Some where between "doing nothing" and "total control" / "perfect", there is chapter 8 of How to Brew, 4th edition - which talks about adjusting the flavor of extract based recipes using brewing salts and measuring spoons.

 

[mac_1103]

OP is brewing an extract kt. As has been mentioned, ideal water for extract brewing is distilled or RO (basically zero minerals) because the extract already has minerals in it from the water it was made with. However, lots of people make perfectly fine extract brews with whatever water they have available, presumably because the mineral content of their water is low enough that it doesn't matter. What he should do about his water in the future depends on a lot of things that we don't know, including how this first beer turns out.

 

[Bagarge]

Quick update.

Shes bubbling away and it has been 13 days now at a steady temp between 20-22 degrees C.

I just took a gravity reading (totally sterilised of course) and it was reading about 26 on the meter.

The instructions said it wasnt important to take a reading at the start of the brew, which i wish i did.

It says to wait until the S.G is 1.010 or below before i add the hops. As i am very new to this does this just mean that there are alot more sugars to be converted into alcohol yet?

I had a taste and to be fair it was delicious and tasted exactly like an ale but a bit on the sweet side.

Thanks for any input

 

[Stikius]

Yes, if it reads 1.026 you still have a lot of sugar in there. You should wait until you get down close to 1.010 if that what the recipe calls for, or at least have a stable value for a few days in a row. But is should definitely come a lot closer to 1.010.

Also, even if the bubbling stops don't rush to bottling/kegging. The yeast will still be doing some magic even when you don't see it.

 

[RM-MN]

Quick update.

Shes bubbling away and it has been 13 days now at a steady temp between 20-22 degrees C.

I just took a gravity reading (totally sterilised of course) and it was reading about 26 on the meter.

The instructions said it wasnt important to take a reading at the start of the brew, which i wish i did.

It says to wait until the S.G is 1.010 or below before i add the hops. As i am very new to this does this just mean that there are alot more sugars to be converted into alcohol yet?

I had a taste and to be fair it was delicious and tasted exactly like an ale but a bit on the sweet side.

Thanks for any input

Since this was an extract kit, the kit should give you the expected OG. It will be very close to that.
The yeast only produce CO2 for the first 2-3 days. After that the bubbles are from excess CO2 coming out of suspension in the beer as it will be supersaturated.
When you say reading of 26 on the meter, what meter are you looking at? If it is a refractometer there needs to be a correction factor as the reading will be skewed by the alcohol in the system. At day 13 I would be surprised if your beer isn't at final gravity.
When you add your dry hops, open the fermenter and dump the hops in, opening it as little as possible and closing it as quickly as you can. Oxygen is the bane of hop aroma. Letting in the least you can is your goal.

 

[Bagarge]

Since this was an extract kit, the kit should give you the expected OG. It will be very close to that.
The yeast only produce CO2 for the first 2-3 days. After that the bubbles are from excess CO2 coming out of suspension in the beer as it will be supersaturated.
When you say reading of 26 on the meter, what meter are you looking at? If it is a refractometer there needs to be a correction factor as the reading will be skewed by the alcohol in the system. At day 13 I would be surprised if your beer isn't at final gravity.
When you add your dry hops, open the fermenter and dump the hops in, opening it as little as possible and closing it as quickly as you can. Oxygen is the bane of hop aroma. Letting in the least you can is your goal.

I am using a floating hydrometer that i got with the kit.
Yes i shoud have specified, it reads 1.026 but on this it just says 26. I assume that is 1.026.
The kit says it should be 1.010 at about day 15 but its been 13 days. I will take another reading at day 15 to observe.
Thanks for the tips on adding the hops

 

[mac_1103]

Many (most?) hydrometers have more than one scale. Make sure you're reading the right one.

 

[mac_1103]

OTOH, if you were reading the Brix scale by mistake then you'd really have a problem.

 

[Bagarge]

OTOH, if you were reading the Brix scale by mistake then you'd really have a problem.

Here is the hydrometer i have. Its only got one scale.

 

[IslandLizard]

Here is the hydrometer i have. Its only got one scale.

Reading from the top down, the scale goes from 0.980, 0.990, to 1.000 (all in small print).
Then in big print it reads 10, 20, 30, etc. Those are to be "added" to 1.000 as such: 1.010, 1.020, 1.030 ... 1.090.

Then, directly below "90" it reads 1.100
Every mark from there down, 110, 120 ... 150 are to read as such: 1.110, 1.120, 1.130 ... 1.150.

 

[Bagarge]

Reading from the top down, the scale goes from 0.980, 0.990, to 1.000 (all in small print).
Then in big print it reads 10, 20, 30, etc. Those are to be "added" to 1.000 as such: 1.010, 1.020, 1.030 ... 1.090.

Then, directly below "90" it reads 1.100
Every mark from there down, 110, 120 ... 140 are to read as such: 1.110, 1.120, 1.130 ... 1.150.

Thanks that has actually clarified that for me.
So i would be correct to say my S.G is at 1.026 and i am looking for a finishing S.G at 1.010 or below?

 

[hotbeer]

It does seem strange that your SG isn't lower by now. Have you been keeping the temperature where the FV is at stable. Or is it varying greatly from day to night or for other reasons? Usually most all my ales and IPA's are fermented at a pretty stable ambient temperature of 20°C ±1°.

If taking a sample to get a SG reading involves opening the lid, then you might just consider going by time. Particularly since this is a beer you intend to dry hop. O2 and hop additions after the ferment are not very good friends.

If it's a clear fermenter, then you can just wait till the beer is clear and you can see to the other side of the trub layer. That might be tomorrow, or it might be 3 to 6 weeks from now. When that happens, you can be certain your beer is at FG.

 

[Bagarge]

It does seem strange that your SG isn't lower by now. Have you been keeping the temperature where the FV is at stable. Or is it varying greatly from day to night or for other reasons? Usually most all my ales and IPA's are fermented at a pretty stable ambient temperature of 20°C ±1°.

If taking a sample to get a SG reading involves opening the lid, then you might just consider going by time. Particularly since this is a beer you intend to dry hop. O2 and hop additions after the ferment are not very good friends.

If it's a clear fermenter, then you can just wait till the beer is clear and you can see to the other side of the trub layer. That might be tomorrow, or it might be 3 to 6 weeks from now. When that happens, you can be certain your beer is at FG.

Its now day 14 and the kit says 15 days. The temperature has been mostly at 20C but some nights have slipped to 17C. Maybe the yeast slowed a little bit at night?
Other variables to consider are:
Its at about 22 litres instead of 20
I spilt a sprinkle of yeast while opening the packet.

It tasted great and looking good but i will check the S.G tomorrow.

 

[IslandLizard]

Thanks that has actually clarified that for me.

YVW!
You can "calibrate" it in distilled or RO water, usually at 20°C or 21°C to read 1.000. Somewhere on the paper scale should be a calibration temp printed.

If it's off a little when checking the calibration, take note of it, so you can add or subtract those few points of each reading. For example, mine reads 2 points too high (one of the small division lines below the correct one). So when I read 1.014, I know it's actually 1.012.

When reading use either the top or the bottom of the meniscus, whichever is closest to your "calibration gravity" of 1.000, and do the same for all successive readings. In the lab we always read at the bottom of the meniscus in watery solutions. But if the top is closer to the calibration temp, you can use that for your readings. It's not all that critical, as long as you're consistent.

 

[Bagarge]

YVW!
You can "calibrate" it in distilled or RO water, usually at 20°C or 21°C to read 1.000. Somewhere on the paper scale should be a calibration temp printed.

If it's off a little when checking the calibration, take note of it, so you can add or subtract those few points of each reading. For example, mine reads 2 points too high (one of the small division lines below the correct one). So when I read 1.014, I know it's actually 1.012.

When reading use either the top or the bottom of the meniscus, whichever is closest to your "calibration gravity" of 1.000, and do the same for all successive readings. In the lab we always read at the bottom of the meniscus in watery solutions. But if the top is closer to the calibration temp, you can use that for your readings. It's not all that critical, as long as you're consistent.

There is no mention of calibration on the paper that came with it
That makes perfect sense though.
i will most like invest in a better hydrometer equipment after this brew.
I am about to start my BIAB project next week

 

[DriveFastDontDie]

It does seem strange that your SG isn't lower by now. Have you been keeping the temperature where the FV is at stable. Or is it varying greatly from day to night or for other reasons? Usually most all my ales and IPA's are fermented at a pretty stable ambient temperature of 20°C ±1°.

If taking a sample to get a SG reading involves opening the lid, then you might just consider going by time. Particularly since this is a beer you intend to dry hop. O2 and hop additions after the ferment are not very good friends.

If it's a clear fermenter, then you can just wait till the beer is clear and you can see to the other side of the trub layer. That might be tomorrow, or it might be 3 to 6 weeks from now. When that happens, you can be certain your beer is at FG.

In the original post I think boiling water was added to the malt. I’ve been under the impression that adding water over 170f/ 76c to malt will denature the natural alpha amylase enzyme in the grain, which is most active between 155-158f. If alpha amylase wasn’t added to offset the denatured enzyme then it’s possible that the natural beta amylase in the grain is working away at a much slower rate. I could be wrong though.

 

[IslandLizard]

So i would be correct to say my S.G is at 1.026 and i am looking for a finishing S.G at 1.010 or below?

Yeah, that's the idea.

Just checking: You're getting the reading of 1.026 about halfway between the 2 lines upon which the numbers 20 and 30 (respectively) are resting on, correct?
And you haven't verified that plain water actually reads 1.000 at 20C.

1.026 is a bit high. I let it be for another week, if possible at 22-24C (if you can find a slightly warmer area) before taking another reading. It's also important for the temps to be consistent, and not drop, such as often happens overnight. Maybe wrap the fermenter in a thick blanket or sleeping bag, including the bottom.

 

[mac_1103]

In the original post I think boiling water was added to the malt.

It's a pre-hopped liquid extract kit. The enzymes were already denatured when the OP bought it.

 

[IslandLizard]

There is no mention of calibration on the paper that came with it

It should be printed on the paper scale inside the hydrometer.

Just beware, these hydrometers are made of very, very thin glass, with a (relatively) big weight in the bottom, and thus extremely fragile! Handle accordingly!
It looks from the picture in post #45 there is hardly a foot or base on your test tube. Don't set that tube on any surface by itself, it will tip and likely break your hydrometer.

You may be able to set it inside a heavy, wide footed, tallish container to keep it upright and from toppling over.

 

[mac_1103]

Assuming the hydrometer does read 1.000 in water, then I don't have really high hopes that your beer will reach 1.010 no matter how much longer you give it. If you haven't added the dry hops yet, I would go ahead and do that now and take what you get. Just one man's opinion.

 

[Bagarge]

Yeah, that's the idea.

Just checking: You're getting the reading of 1.026 about halfway between the 2 lines upon which the numbers 20 and 30 (respectively) are resting on, correct?
And you haven't verified that plain water actually reads 1.000 at 20C.

1.026 is a bit high. I let it be for another week, if possible at 22-24C (if you can find a slightly warmer area) before taking another reading. It's also important for the temps to be consistent, and not drop, such as often happens overnight. Maybe wrap the fermenter in a thick blanket or sleeping bag, including the bottom.

Exactly yes. I will try to calibrate tomorrow in some distilled water.

I have just carefully moved my FV to the opposite end of the room with the woodburner in and have managed a steady 22C. Ill check all gravity reading tomorrow and report back
I have a heat mat would that also be of any use?

By the way, love this forum you guys are great! When funds permit sign me up fully

 

[IslandLizard]

Its now day 14 and the kit says 15 days.

The yeast is not on any schedule, she just does what she does best in a given environment.
When the beer temps drop her metabolism slows down; she can even start floccing out. That's why keeping ferm temps stable is important and raising them somewhat when fermentation slows will keep her engaged and help her finish out and clean up.

Although @mac_1103 is probably right that she's done with this ride, I would give the beer the benefit of doubt a few days longer in somewhat warmer temps, and nicely wrapped up during the (cooler) nights.

 

[hotbeer]

Looking at your picture of the beer in your sample tube, you need to wait a while longer for sure. Don't get antsy to rush your beer into the bottle or keg just because the recipe says leave it in the FV for so many days. All the beers I left in the FV for a long time were good to great beers. A few of the beers I've rushed were crappy.

IMO, IMO and IMHO, American IPA's should be pretty clear. Sometimes they are in less than two weeks. But other times they might take more time to clear. So just be patient. Find some other beer to enjoy in the mean time. You could cold crash, but that has additional consideration of it's own. And I'm not convinced it's that much faster in itself. I've had beers go from murky to clear in a day.

And don't be sampling for SG too often. Even if you have a spigot or some other way to get a sample with out opening the lid and letting the air in, it's still getting in there because something has to make up that volume you removed. So if you use a airlock it's sucking air back through it.

 

[IslandLizard]

@Bagarge
Can you post a picture of your fermenter, the way it is now? No need to open it, leave it closed.

 

[Bagarge]

@Bagarge
Can you post a picture of your fermenter, the way it is now? No need to open it, leave it closed.

 

[IslandLizard]

Thanks for the picture of your fermenter, above ^!
We see a clear krausen line, about 1/2" high, right above the beer level, and some specks higher up, which could be a sign krausen may have risen higher up earlier on. Those are signs that at least decent fermentation has taken place, and has subdued now.

How much yeast did you actually spill, a few granules or perhaps as much as half the pouch?
There's not all that much in those (little) pouches anyway.

 

[Bagarge]

Thanks for the picture of your fermenter, above ^!
We see a clear krausen line, about 1/2" high, right above the beer level, and some specks higher up, which could be a sign krausen may have risen higher up earlier on. Those are signs that at least decent fermentation has taken place, and has subdued now.

How much yeast did you actually spill, a few granules or perhaps as much as half the pouch?
There's not all that much in those (little) pouches anyway.

Well that does sound hopeful!
I didnt spill much at all. The packet ripped suddenly as i was trying to tear it carefully.
I did notice the foam (krausen i am guessing) did rise very early on and has since subsided.
I didnt get time to take a gravity reading today but i will make sure i do tomorrow

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

I haven't read every post here but have tried to follow along. You are getting some great advice from the folks here.

Being your first batch you're going to learn a lot that will help with future ones, take good notes. Having two or more hydrometers is a good investment, as noted, they break easily. Get or make one of those test tube holders, make sure it has a steady base.

Brewing will get better as you brew more batches. The overall process is fairly easy if you follow good brewing practices. We all started out just like you with loads of questions.