New England Esque IPA

[psnydez861]

Flaked oats/wheat is something that can be used in this style, but certainly isn't a necessity. A lot of Trillium beers don't have any flaked grains from what I hear. English yeast is the general consensus, but I know people that take stabs at the style with various strains. High Chloride to Gypsum is a big one, maybe the most important one....
And big hopping rates with high oil content hops... in particular dry hop rates....

6oz dry hop for 5 gallons of 1.055OG beer is a nice amount....say maybe 9-12 oz dry hops for beers with OG's of 1.070 and up.....

These beers certainly aren't cheap.

 

[drgarage1]

Flaked oats/wheat is something that can be used in this style, but certainly isn't a necessity. A lot of Trillium beers don't have any flaked grains from what I hear. English yeast is the general consensus, but I know people that take stabs at the style with various strains. High Chloride to Gypsum is a big one, maybe the most important one....
And big hopping rates with high oil content hops... in particular dry hop rates....

6oz dry hop for 5 gallons of 1.055OG beer is a nice amount....say maybe 9-12 oz dry hops for beers with OG's of 1.070 and up.....

These beers certainly aren't cheap.

In my experience, you need to adjust bittering somewhat, as the suspended hop oils (with London Ale III) from late kettle additions will dial up IBUs more than with typical flameout additions.

 

[psnydez861]

drgarage I have done some of these beers with just flame out additions and agree they do generate a lot of IBU's while sitting hot....I've even noticed a decent amount of bitterness being extracted when doing "cooler" whirlpool temps of 170 and below.

 

[JulianB1]

Aroma is juniper and citrus, taste is peach, juniper, and more citrus. Can't believe I brewed this. I might actually be figuring something out in this homebrewing game.

That or I just got lucky.

 

[anteater1]

Aroma is juniper and citrus, taste is peach, juniper, and more citrus. Can't believe I brewed this. I might actually be figuring something out in this homebrewing game.

That or I just got lucky.

Dude I couldn't believe it either when I brewed that recipe similar to yours. That citra mosaic galaxy combination with 1318 is magic. Keg kicked in 6 days.

 

[fiver29]

So is it really just the yeast that makes the turbid difference? I haven't checked. Guessing 1318 has a low flocculation rate? Or is there some other process producing the cloudiness? This is clearly not chill haze occurring.

 

[JCastle1]

So is it really just the yeast that makes the turbid difference? I haven't checked. Guessing 1318 has a low flocculation rate? Or is there some other process producing the cloudiness? This is clearly not chill haze occurring.

I use plain old US-05 with mine just because dry yeast is less of a pain for me. I just skip the Irish moss, gelatin, cold-crashing, etc that I usually do.

 

[masterovkhaos]

So is it really just the yeast that makes the turbid difference? I haven't checked. Guessing 1318 has a low flocculation rate? Or is there some other process producing the cloudiness? This is clearly not chill haze occurring.

Conan has always done the job for me. I now use a blend of conan/sacch trois. Absurd dry hopping rates help too. I also tend to often use flaked wheat or oats.

Of course, I do this all for flavor and because cold crashing is a waste of time to me, not for the appearance.

 

[drgarage1]

So is it really just the yeast that makes the turbid difference? I haven't checked. Guessing 1318 has a low flocculation rate? Or is there some other process producing the cloudiness? This is clearly not chill haze occurring.

1318 also behaves in interesting ways depending on dry hopping technique.

 

[fiver29]

1318 also behaves in interesting ways depending on dry hopping technique.

Please describe.

 

[axeman91821]

^ Also interested to hear more. I'm using 1318 for the first time this weekend in an IPA.

 

[Ziggy]

Aroma is juniper and citrus, taste is peach, juniper, and more citrus. Can't believe I brewed this. I might actually be figuring something out in this homebrewing game.

That or I just got lucky.

Do you use a temp controlled fermentation chamber?

 

[drgarage1]

^ Also interested to hear more. I'm using 1318 for the first time this weekend in an IPA.

GuzzleMcBrew could tell you much better than me. Key is to dry-hop in primary.

 

[GuzzleMcBrew]

Basically, with some protein in the grist from the flaked malts, 1318 leaves a lot behind when dry hopping at the end of primary. Lots of aroma left on the stuff that sticks to it.

The live resin of hops.



Edit: my original response actually referred to this thread- whoops! I'm at Pizza Port right now...
Quoted from earlier in the thread, bold for emphasis.

I'm about to rock my New England esque IPA again this weekend if all goes well. I've gotten it to where results are somewhere between HF, Trillium and TH. Can't wait, I might split this batch to do two dryhop treatments.

I have a very specific water profile I aim for to finish with crazy sulfide/chloride levels to get close to that of lab analysis of Heady Topper. Involves dechlorinated water (I usually mash with 10 gallons to collect 6.5) and adding 16 g Gypsum, 7g CaCl, 4 g Epsom salt to the mash, and using a bit of acidulated malt.

Mostly 2Row/Marris Otter Blend (I might sub a little pilsner this time, but Marris is a key part of the recipe)
Little flaked Wheat and Rolled Oats
Little Carapils
Little C10
Little Honey Malt
Little table sugar

Most importantly, 1318 YEAST

Mash 154*
75 minute boil

.4 Columbus @ 45
.3 Columbus, .5 Mosaic, .7 Citra @ 5 (I would be careful with quantity of things like Equinox or Galaxy)
.5 Mosaic, .5 Galaxy @ 0
Whirlpool 3 combined ounces of aroma hops at 190-170* for like 20 minutes (above or whatever you are going to dry hop with - Nelson, Amarillo, Equinox, whatever)

Dry hop on days 3 or 4 at the end of primary and again in the keg after racking on day 9 or so when a good amount of yeast has dropped. The amount you dry hop is dependent on the hop you use and your tolerance for garlic/green onion vegetal flavors. I stick to about 4 oz total split evenly. Let it sit at 68-70 with the hops and then pull the mesh hop bag out of the keg and force carb for a week. It'll look like juice, smell like juice and it will taste like muddafuggin juice.

 

[fiver29]

Basically, with some protein in the grist from the flaked malts, 1318 leaves a lot behind when dry hopping at the end of primary. Lots of aroma left on the stuff that sticks to it.

The live resin of hops.



Edit: my original response actually referred to this thread- whoops! I'm at Pizza Port right now...
Quoted from earlier in the thread, bold for emphasis.

At what point do you dry hop in the primary?

 

[JCastle1]

At what point do you dry hop in the primary?

I dry hop when fermentation is pretty much done (also primary, never done secondary for IPAs). Not sure how true this is but from what I've heard the bubbling can expel some of the hop aromas which would defeat the purpose.

 

[fiver29]

I dry hop when fermentation is pretty much done (also primary, never done secondary for IPAs). Not sure how true this is but from what I've heard the bubbling can expel some of the hop aromas which would defeat the purpose.

To clarify, you mean the fermentation will prevent hop aroma in the finished product? How does that happen?

 

[Five28 hz]

To clarify, you mean the fermentation will prevent hop aroma in the finished product? How does that happen?

Co2 off gassing during active fermentation will take some of the hop aroma with it

 

[GuzzleMcBrew]

I feel that the Co2 off-gassing concept is real, but since my primary dry-hop is coupled with a second dose and a preliminary whirlpool I am not too worried about it.

 

[interman1]

I've been using 1318 for many batches now, and my best results have been from dry hopping in a hop bag in a keg for about four days, and transfering to a co2 purged keg afterwards. I flip the dry hop keg a few times pr day during that time, and I've never had better hop aroma, flavor and stability. I don't miss end of primary dry hopping, cold crashing, etc.

 

[sts9fan1]

got my second simcoe/Galaxy 1318 ipa fermenting now. The first was ok and will be drank at a party Saturday. It seems a bit too sweet for me. Hopefully this one comes out better. I have YET to figure out this home-brew thing.

 

[GetchaPull]

Have one in primary now and excited to see how it'll come out.

1056 smack pack
11 lbs pale blend
1.5 lbs white wheat
1 lb flaked oats
.75 lb carapils
60 min boil
1 oz Columbus at 45
1 oz Citra at 20
2 oz Citra at 5
3 oz Citra at flameout, ghetto whirlpool for 15 mins

1.060 OG
Just dryhopped on Wednesday after 10 days (4 oz Citra, 1 oz Nelson Sauvin, 1 oz Mosaic)

Bottling tomorrow. Will give London Ale III a shot next time...with a touch less Citra and more Nelson/Mosaic.

Very cool reading all the tips here. Really need to stop farting around and start kegging.

 

[agrippin]

Can't believe it's taken me this long to see this thread. Brewed a few batches of NE style IPA, ended up with a happy malt base because the LBSH was out of the wheat I wanted and ended up using red wheat.

11lb 2-row
1/2 lb C 60
1 1/2 Red Flaked Wheat
4 oz honey malt

Vermont Ale Yeast (Conan)

I've switched up the hops each batch for fun. Last batch was Simcoe, Cirta, Mosaic

30 min
0.5 Simcoe

Flame out
1.5oz Simceo
2oz Cirta
2oz Mosaic

Dry hop 5-7 days
2oz Cirta
2oz Mosaic

Before kegging:

From the tap, and a bit too much carbonation:

Pretty happy with it, next batch is replaces mosaic with amarillo. Ispeakforthetrees and balesfc have been fans so far.

 

[Ispeakforthetrees]

Can't believe it's taken me this long to see this thread. Brewed a few batches of NE style IPA, ended up with a happy malt base because the LBSH was out of the wheat I wanted and ended up using red wheat.

11lb 2-row
1/2 lb C 60
1 1/2 Red Flaked Wheat
4 oz honey malt

Vermont Ale Yeast (Conan)

I've switched up the hops each batch for fun. Last batch was Simcoe, Cirta, Mosaic

30 min
0.5 Simcoe

Flame out
1.5oz Simceo
2oz Cirta
2oz Mosaic

Dry hop 5-7 days
2oz Cirta
2oz Mosaic

Before kegging:

From the tap, and a bit too much carbonation:

Pretty happy with it, next batch is replaces mosaic with amarillo. Ispeakforthetrees and balesfc have been fans so far.

I'd crush it tonight bruh

 

[agrippin]

I'd crush it tonight bruh

Keg kicked last weekend. Dry hopping the new batch Sunday.

 

[Snarf1]

Very cool reading all the tips here. Really need to stop farting around and start kegging.

There is really no reason to make a 'modern' IPA if you can't keg. Even kegging, DO on most homebrew is through the roof.

 

[GetchaPull]

There is really no reason to make a 'modern' IPA if you can't keg. Even kegging, DO on most homebrew is through the roof.

Bigger DO due to pressure/force carbing or simply due to a singular, large steel vessel?*

*Homebrew n00b and I haven't scienced in awhile.

 

[Snarf1]

Bigger DO due to pressure/force carbing or simply due to a singular, large steel vessel?*

*Homebrew n00b and I haven't scienced in awhile.

More oxygen bottling than kegging, but both pick up a lot of oxygen with standard homebrew practices.

 

[WesM631]

I've attempted a couple.

My first. Decent but on the next attempt, i'm backing off on the bittering charge. Personally 72 IBU is to bitter for this "style", i'm also moving all the 0min charges to whirlpool and doubling up. Same with the DH, doubling that as well. I bottled this one and it defiantly lost a substantial amount of aroma.

75% Golden Promise
12.5% White Wheat
6% Cara-Pils
6% Flaked Oats
London Ale III (Wyeast 1318)




This is my second one, it's really tasty. I'm not sure if i'd change anything, maybe double up on the whirlpool and DH for grins, more towards 3lbs-4lbs/bbl. This isn't my recipe, I found it online from a Hop Hands clone (the grist is at least). It was supposed to be a pale ale at 5.5% abv, but mine ended up around 6.8% abv and 45IBU. Smooth with a hint of bitterness. I think this could stand another 5-10 IBU. (Personally, i'll keep it between 45-50) Kegged, it did lose some of it's aroma but not as much as bottling.

81.8% 2 Row
18.2% Flaked Oats
London Ale III (Wyeast 1318)

 

[psnydez861]

As mentioned above.... keeping oxygen out of the picture for these beers is a huge advantage, and I noticed all of my hoppy beers became exponentially better once I started kegging.....and especially when I stopped using an auto siphon and started using co2 forced racking.