Long Journey into E-brewing.

[doug293cz]

Ok, here's the design. Let me know if you have any questions.



There is no such thing as a NEMA L4-30 Plug/Receptacle. I assume you have the 4-wire L14-30 Plugs/Receptacles. You don't need 4-wire power connections in a 240V only system. You can use them instead of the L6-30's by connecting ground to the "G" terminal, the two hots to "x" & "Y", and leaving "W" open.



Brew on

 

[mendozer]

oh so this whole thing is using my 3 wire. I thought I needed 4 wire, that's why I got 14-30s. you're saying connecting Hot1, Hot 2, and G to the power supply's ACL, ACN, GND is ok? It didn't have a wiring thing with it so I assumed N was neutral.

 

[doug293cz]

oh so this whole thing is using my 3 wire. I thought I needed 4 wire, that's why I got 14-30s. you're saying connecting Hot1, Hot 2, and G to the power supply's ACL, ACN, GND is ok? It didn't have a wiring thing with it so I assumed N was neutral.

In a 120V system, "N" would be neutral. But you said earlier the supply was rated up to 265V input. In a 240V (US) system, there is no neutral, and the power supply doesn't really care.

Brew on

 

[mendozer]

OK I was thinking about this earlier. Maybe the N is listed as a connection because the input ranges from 95 to 265V so maybe you can do 110 or 220 setup. I'm going to take a crack at this. I guess if it works I'll return the L14-30

 

[mendozer]

ok so I've been doing little by little when I have time. Using the L6-30s, I returned the L14-30s.

I made the female plugs (which go tot he elements) this way: X to black, Y to red, G to ground.
However, when I made my outlet on the wall from the breaker, the instructions said X to red, Y to black. Does it matter if I have X and Ys mismatching red and black? Not really right since they both provide 120V. Unless there's a requirement for polarity or something.

 

[mendozer]

ok I looked into it a bit and it seems that polarity is the red/black. BUT, does polarity matter for my applications??

I assume it's not important because in the diagram the red and black go to different terminals on the female plugs. But can you confirm this before I finalize things?

 

[doug293cz]

ok so I've been doing little by little when I have time. Using the L6-30s, I returned the L14-30s.

I made the female plugs (which go tot he elements) this way: X to black, Y to red, G to ground.
However, when I made my outlet on the wall from the breaker, the instructions said X to red, Y to black. Does it matter if I have X and Ys mismatching red and black? Not really right since they both provide 120V. Unless there's a requirement for polarity or something.

ok I looked into it a bit and it seems that polarity is the red/black. BUT, does polarity matter for my applications??

I assume it's not important because in the diagram the red and black go to different terminals on the female plugs. But can you confirm this before I finalize things?

I did some quick (definitely not comprehensive) searching about wiring 240V outlets, and didn't find anything about a convention or code requirement for how red and black should connect to the X and Y terminals. If anyone reading this knows more, please comment. Electrically it doesn't matter. There is certainly no harm in maintaining consistency in which color wire goes to which letter terminal. I just swapped the connections in the drawing as it made the drawing cleaner.

The only potential concern would be if you tried to connect a piece of equipment with two plugs that connected the hots from the two plugs internally. I can't think of a case where doing this would make sense.

Brew on

 

[mendozer]

I spoke with my electrician buddy and he said it also didn't matter. For motors it would drive the direction but for these it's fine.

 

[mendozer]

I had a delay as I had to order a fuse holder off amazon as the local stores didn't carry the snap in type for glass fuses.

I'm slowly getting things done. Here's an update from the spa panel

Wired this up (hopefully right). Feed from house panel goes through this GFCI spa panel, then to an outlet in which the wire is spliced. One way goes to the plug and the other continues out to the dangling female L6-30. The outlet is for my welder.

 

[mendozer]

I didn't wire that white wire in the spa panel. It came like that. Since I'm not using 120, I don't really need that from my understanding. But I also don't see it causing problems since nothing's going to the lug to get power from that white wire. So should I leave it be or take it out?

 

[mendozer]

ok did some more work on it today. I realized putting wire straight into terminals doesn't look very legit. Maybe I should do connectors. Here's what I thought of.

Also, thought I'd add one lug for grounding. Otherwise twist nuts for Hot 1 and 2

 

[doug293cz]

Personally, I wouldn't use twist nuts on high current wiring. I'd double up crimped spade or ring lugs on device terminals or terminal strips to make the branch connections.

Brew on

 

[mendozer]

Personally, I wouldn't use twist nuts on high current wiring. I'd double up crimped spade or ring lugs on device terminals or terminal strips to make the branch connections.

Brew on

So you'd put one 10 gauge wire into a ring terminal...then put another ring terminal? I don't understand your statement, sorry

 

[mendozer]

could you circle on the diagram where terminal strips go? I'm seeing some with many terminals. Do I need to have a different strip per combination of wires or can it service all my branches?

 

[mendozer]

something like that with 6 poles since I have 6 potential junctions where one wire becomes two after?

 

[doug293cz]

You can get a good feel for how to wire with terminal strips looking here: https://www.google.com/search?site=....ZJFSAFW7rlM#tbm=isch&q=terminal+strip+jumper.

Here's one pic that shows putting two lugs on a single terminal. This same method can be used on SSR terminals, switch terminals, etc.

Brew on

 

[mendozer]

Ah I see what you meant now. Thanks

Maybe I'll do rings instead of spades. Seems more secure. Even though in theory nothing should move around.

I'd have to make sure to cut all the jumper pieces in between right? Since I want 6 separate strips or connections.

 

[doug293cz]

Ah I see what you meant now. Thanks

Maybe I'll do rings instead of spades. Seems more secure. Even though in theory nothing should move around.

I'd have to make sure to cut all the jumper pieces in between right? Since I want 6 separate strips or connections.

Normally you have to add the jumpers, as each pair of contacts is isolated from the pair on either side. From the linked image page, there are two common styles of jumpers.

Edit: I think you should be able to wire this design without terminal strips by using the technique of putting two wires (with crimped lugs) on the appropriate component terminals. If you need help selecting suitable terminals, I can sketch something up for you.

Jumper style 1:

Jumper style 2:

Brew on

 

[mendozer]

I was given a few of these by my buddy today.

http://idealind.com/us/en/products/...rips/ideal-barrier-strips/barrier-strips.aspx

They seem good for splicing but I don't see how I'll joint two wires into one port. Kinda small. I might need the above terminal strips.

 

[ReddyK]

Even though I added a terminal strip in my panel I ended up wiring it up with out using it at all. So you don't need terminal strips but many people use them.

 

[mendozer]

well my only need for it would be joining a three way splice. I don't see wire nuts in your panel so maybe you didn't have any 3 way connections.

 

[stlbeer]

These guys can be a little pricey, but seem to meet your requirements.

http://www.littelfuse.com/products/.../electrical-power-distribution-blocks/ls.aspx

 

[mendozer]

Does this seem right for the power module? I don't know whether to trust the symbols for connections or my gut of hot/white.

Also, that rotary switch. It's not sepcified which wire to what terminal.

There's a N/O half and N/C half. Using two conductor 20 awg wire red/white.

Couldn't find a diagram for this switch.

 

[doug293cz]

Does this seem right for the power module? I don't know whether to trust the symbols for connections or my gut of hot/white.

Also, that rotary switch. It's not sepcified which wire to what terminal.

There's a N/O half and N/C half. Using two conductor 20 awg wire red/white.

Couldn't find a diagram for this switch.

Power module looks ok, except you need to connect a ground wire to the AC input terminal block.

I assume you are asking about the switch that controls the power module. That switch needs to have two NO blocks to work. One hot goes thru one of the NO blocks and the other hot goes thru the other NO block. If you're using the Auber switch, you can get extra switch blocks if you don't already have the correct ones.

Brew on

 

[mendozer]

OK So I used my meter to test resistance of the blocks.

11 and 12 are connected and 23 and 24 are. So I wired red to 11/12 and white to 23/24. I guess it doesn't really matter which one is which, as long as one position is off and one is on once it's all hooked up.

I finished it tonight and here are some final pics. Mounted the leviton switch to the side. It was tough working in the small box. Hopefully nothing breaks because I don't want to fiddle with anything in there! I wonder how long that AC/DC converter will last. I have 20 gauge for all the low voltage stuff except for 16 awg wired onto the auber controller. My electrician buddy put it on there. But since it's after the 2 amp fuses, who cares.

I still am unsure about the white wire in the spa panel. Does that stay or go?

 

[mendozer]

Power module looks ok, except you need to connect a ground wire to the AC input terminal block.

I assume you are asking about the switch that controls the power module. That switch needs to have two NO blocks to work. One hot goes thru one of the NO blocks and the other hot goes thru the other NO block. If you're using the Auber switch, you can get extra switch blocks if you don't already have the correct ones.

Brew on

Just saw this after my last post. If I need two NO blocks, why not get the SW4?

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=241

 

[doug293cz]

Just saw this after my last post. If I need two NO blocks, why not get the SW4?

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=241

The SW4 will work fine. I just called out lighted switches in the design cause lots of folks like to use them. The SW1 has two NO blocks, and the SW16 can be purchased either with 2 NO or 1 NO & 1 NC.

I believe you can just leave the white wire in the spa panel the way it is.

Brew on

 

[mendozer]

Got it. Ordered the SW4 today. I rechecked the blocks and at any given time, one's open and one's closed on mine. I didn't fully understand switches when I ordered that. I think I was set on using 120 for it at the time, which would have worked, but now using 220 all around I need two NO. I can't wait until it comes. Very exciting. I am a little worried about it all when I plug it in. I mean for a first timer who wouldn't be?

 

[mendozer]

OK I FINALLY got around to testing my elements today. I haven't brewed in forever. But when I hooked everything up...nothing.

I used my multimeter for continuity testing. Everything from outlet to SSR is fine. But terminals 1/2 are not continuous. I have no idea why. thoughts?

 

[augiedoggy]

OK I FINALLY got around to testing my elements today. I haven't brewed in forever. But when I hooked everything up...nothing.

I used my multimeter for continuity testing. Everything from outlet to SSR is fine. But terminals 1/2 are not continuous. I have no idea why. thoughts?

? you cant test ssr switches without a load connected to them... also terminals 1 and 2 wont have continuity until the ssr is activated by the pid and closes the relay.

 

[mendozer]

I'll look up how to test ssrs when I get home. I noticed that continuity didn't change when I switched my element selector switch. My ssvr controller is supposed to be pushed in then rotated for power.

 

[doug293cz]

I'll look up how to test ssrs when I get home. I noticed that continuity didn't change when I switched my element selector switch. My ssvr controller is supposed to be pushed in then rotated for power.

One easy way is to connect 120V light bulb(s) between terminals 1 & 2 of the SSR or SSVR. One bulb for 120V panel output, two bulbs in series for 240V output.

Another option is just to test using your elements. Make sure they are submersed in an adequate amount of water before testing.

Brew on

 

[mendozer]

So leave my panel connected the way it is, but also splice in two light bulbs between terminals 1 and 2 of the SSR? I'll have to get some sockets and connector clips. From my understanding, my SSVR controller, the auber one, should be the one that turns the SSVR on. However, this controller never turns on. I push and nothing, turn the dial and nothing. So could the problem lie in how this is wired?

 

[mendozer]

nvm I just watched a video on it from cryodom. I'll have to get some supplies 120V rated to make a quick testing bench

 

[doug293cz]

So leave my panel connected the way it is, but also splice in two light bulbs between terminals 1 and 2 of the SSR? I'll have to get some sockets and connector clips. From my understanding, my SSVR controller, the auber one, should be the one that turns the SSVR on. However, this controller never turns on. I push and nothing, turn the dial and nothing. So could the problem lie in how this is wired?

Yes.

I see that in the photo you don't have a temp sensor connected to the EZBoil. The EZBoil will not trigger the SSR without a temp sensor connected. In this case the top display should be alternating between "orAL" and "932" (according to the manual.)

Brew on

 

[mendozer]

No its the dspr1 not the ez boil for wort

 

[mendozer]

it's the fuses! Light bulb test was fine. Then I looked at resistance between both ends of the fuses. They're both blown. I do recall seeing my lights above flicker as soon as I switched the control panel on (different breaker though).

I have the Cooper Bussman AGC-2-RP uses 1/4" x 1 1/4". I was sure these were what I wanted. Am I incorrect?
DSPR1 output is 12VDC, 80 mA

 

[mendozer]

I just noticed something looking back at my wiring diagram on page 5. I don't have the DSPR110, just the DSPR1. The wiring diagram listed here below is from the manual.

I have (i think) the SSR and AC wires backwards. That could make my fuses blow right?

 

[mendozer]

ok it was backwards. I replaced the fuses, swapped wires, then tested it. It actually turned on for a few seconds while the DSPR1 was blinking at 50%. But it shut off after that. Then the standby light would be on. Every time I pushed the button thereafter to test it, the screen would light up red (like the numerical lights) then shut back off.

 

[doug293cz]

ok it was backwards. I replaced the fuses, swapped wires, then tested it. It actually turned on for a few seconds while the DSPR1 was blinking at 50%. But it shut off after that. Then the standby light would be on. Every time I pushed the button thereafter to test it, the screen would light up red (like the numerical lights) then shut back off.

If you mixed up the AC power and SSR control output wires on the DSPR1, you could have damaged or destroyed the DSPR unit. The current surge that blew the fuses could not have been good for the DSPR.

Brew on