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scubahiker

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I'm currently working on switching my brewery from propane to electric. I figured I would start with the brain. I came across a control panel someone was getting rid of. They said it was about 8 years old, and they just didn't have time to brew anymore. I gave him $150 bucks for it and went on my way. He said he made the controller himself and used 10ga wire, and based it off the electric brewery. Please take a look at the controller and let me know what you think. They threw in a 50amp spa controller as well.

My breaker box has a 30amp 14-30P connector for a generator. My plan was to use a converter like this to connect the spa controller to the it. Once I have that, I'll be able to plug in the controller and see what it can do. If all runs smoothly I'll move on with the brewery conversion. I have a 3 vessel keggle system. My plan is to go HERMS. With this control panel running on a 30 amp circuit, will I be able to run 5500 watt elements? Or will I need to downgrade? To go HERMS, I know I'll need another pump controller to the panel. Amy other suggestions? Outside of that, I'm following the electric brewery build since the controller is based off that.

Thanks for your input!
 

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My assumption based on the controller's 50P supply cord, that it's possible to turn both elements on at the same time. If you run it on 30amps, you'll have to be careful to only enable one element at a time or you'll trip the breaker right away. It's definitely possible to use a selector switch instead of two independent on/off switches to prevent that from happening if you wanted to do it.

Yes, you can run a 5500 watt element and a couple pumps on a single 30 amp circuit.
 
Maybe an excess of caution, but it could be a good idea to snug the connections of those 10 gauge wires. They're apparently all nicely lugged, which is great. But this unit has been moved around, and loosened connections in brewing panels have occasionally been associated with overheating, even melting of components.

I don't mean to be a buzz kill - congrats on the launch of your move to electro brewing!
 
Can't tell if those are frays in a couple places or just schmuzz on the wire, but would check those. The UTP needs proper connection in a couple places. Other than that, tightening the lugs and checking for loose connections should be it.
 
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Thanks for the input. I'll look over the connections and give it a try with the 30 amp breaker. If it drives me crazy, I'll look into upgrading to a 50amp.

I'll still need add another switch for the 2nd pump. I'm while I'm at it maybe switch the original light switch to one that will match the rest of the system.

Can someone provide insight into what the orange and red switch is surrounding the inkbird controller at the top?
 
what the orange and red switch is surrounding the inkbird controller at the top?
My best guess is that these switches are controlling power to two of the non-Inkbird controllers (or all three, with two controlled by one switch, the third by the other) Not sure why that would be needed though.
 
If it is a true generator connection it's a power inlet, not a power outlet.

On the presumption the generator inlet is wired to Code, so the generator is isolated from the mains by a transfer switch or breaker interlock to prevent backfeed into the grid, it will not work for powering your brewing setup. No power should ever be present there except from the generator.
 
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So to make things interesting, my buddy added this generator plug for me, and to answer your question, its a dead man's switch....

With all that being said, its probably time for me to get up to code, and move my generator breaker up to the top so a interlock can be added, and add the 240V GFCI in an available spot so I can start my electric brewery transition! Thanks @whoaru99 and @sibelman!

Actually, now that I think about it, couldn't I just keep this 30A switch for brewing, and add a legit generator breaker? I'm fine with 1 element on at a time.
 
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I know I'll need another pump controller to the panel
I've got 4 different controllers I built and didn't put a switch for pumps on any of them. I use remote control outlets which I love. Apparently the 3 pack I bought has been discontinued. 2 are for the pumps and the third I use for a fan that moves the steam from the top of the kettle so it doesn't condensate on my light above. Basically something like this but to each his own. I also use GFCI protected outlet for these.

https://www.amazon.com/Decker-Wirel...-3-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
 
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