Keggles with poor welds

[Sawdustguy]

That would be like sealing the inside of a boat to stop a leak vs sealing from the outside.

Been there, done that, about 25 miles offshore while waiting for the Coast Guard to come with pumps.

 

[Swagman]

I weld just outside on all applications on a keg. (arms too short and body too fat for inside lol) but with the wall thickness and back flow the penetration of the outside the weld bead does penetrate the inside some. With Tig welding you want your tolerance's from part to part tight. That's why I take a 1/2 inch coupler which will run approx a few thousand's over one inch and turn down half its length to one inch. I can use a one inch hole saw and have a tight fitting coupler in the hole. Makes tig welding a lot easier and cleaner, back flowing the weld area with argon you will have no rough areas inside.

I also use a plasma for cutting it make's life a lot easier. The only thing I do different is I fill the kegs with water keeps the blow by from sticking inside the kegs. Which can be a pain to get off.

Need any weld or cut stop by the Shed and you can use the cutter and Tig just bring some thing for my dry throat. Lol

Dominus Vobiscum

Swagman

 

[BrewBeemer]

Sorry too far away i'm on the left coast within 10 miles of that big ocean.
If the fully loaded 1992 Miller 350 Synchrowave Tig can't help me i'll sell
everything then go postal and start drinking Coors.

 

[Swagman]

Sorry too far away i'm on the left coast within 10 miles of that big ocean.
If the fully loaded 1992 Miller 350 Synchrowave Tig can't help me i'll sell
everything then go postal and start drinking Coors.

That's a good unit myself 180 Square wave. Do you do a lot of stainless Tig welding? If not only thing is practice, practice, practice, and Patience.

From the center Coast

Dominus Vobiscum

Swagman

 

[BrewBeemer]

Not anymore the past 15 months since two required spinal surgeries 8-12 month recoveries on the mend others required in my future. I over did it on a custom exhaust system with Mr. Miller 251 in a hurry vs Tig doing custom exhaust on my son's BMW, that alone required 4-5 days recovery pain. I'm screwed this sucks.
I still would of cut off those nipples, dressed then opened up the holes and Tigged in SS couplings, good to go.

 

[McCuckerson]

... I agree with bobby M boiling for an hour will kill anything unless you're using a rotting dear carcass for a mash tun.

Would that work?

 

[BrewBeemer]

I had a DIY stick welded with SS rod fermenter (first attempt with fermenters) made with nasty welds on the inside just within reach to weld not dress just above the dump valve. I always flashed the bottom of the cone and weld area with a weed burning propane torch until I hit 300 plus degrees with the infrared gun and never had a infection problem during 4 1/2 years of use. This POS has been handed down twice more last I heard and still in use. Propane torch sanitizing process required before each use.

 

[BrewBeemer]

I'm pretty sure it's stainless because you can't weld brass.

Bobby, I can't vouch for brass due to added zinc but do know you can Tig stainless and copper together.

 

[calpyro]

One way to fix an imperfect weld in stanless is to clean the area with a mild acid, appy flux and silver solder the inperfect areas

I picked up three keggles for a total of $90. They each have the top cut out. Two have fittings welded in, one does not. The one which does not was used as a brew kettle, the other two with fittings have never been used. The welds don't look so amazing, but I bought them anyway - impulse. The fittings appear to be 1/2" brass.

This should be a link to a picasa web album to view pics of the three keggles and the welds.

Picasa Web Albums - Talloak - Pictures

Are they ok? Was it worth the money? Or are they trash? Can they be 'fixed' somehow?

 

[calpyro]

One way to fix an imperfect weld in stanless is to clean the area with a mild acid, apply flux and silver solder the inperfect areas

I picked up three keggles for a total of $90. They each have the top cut out. Two have fittings welded in, one does not. The one which does not was used as a brew kettle, the other two with fittings have never been used. The welds don't look so amazing, but I bought them anyway - impulse. The fittings appear to be 1/2" brass.

This should be a link to a picasa web album to view pics of the three keggles and the welds.

Picasa Web Albums - Talloak - Pictures

Are they ok? Was it worth the money? Or are they trash? Can they be 'fixed' somehow?

 

[jrph22]

So looking for an answer to a question and this seemed like the most fitting thread...I also have some sugaring on the interior of my welds (not nearly as bad as some pictured before) but I'm looking to grind them down as well. The question: What is the best tool to grind down the interior welds? It seems like my 4 1/2" grinder wouldn't work to well due to the confined space. Has anyone used a dremel to grind them down? Do they work well? Seems like a good choice for the small space but are they actually powerful enough to grind down the welds?

 

[Yavid]

Did you ever get an answer to this question? I have the exact same issue. I've tried a dremel but it doesn't really work that well (those dremel tools don't last very long).

 

[Junkster]

So looking for an answer to a question and this seemed like the most fitting thread...I also have some sugaring on the interior of my welds (not nearly as bad as some pictured before) but I'm looking to grind them down as well. The question: What is the best tool to grind down the interior welds? It seems like my 4 1/2" grinder wouldn't work to well due to the confined space. Has anyone used a dremel to grind them down? Do they work well? Seems like a good choice for the small space but are they actually powerful enough to grind down the welds?

If you're careful, you can get some of it with a 4-1/2 grinder with flap discs. I then use abrasive flap wheels on an electric die grinder or a right-angle pneumatic die grinder. There are some finish discs that mount on a rubber backing pad with a quarter turn but I forget what they're called - they may be made by 3-M. I use those for the finish work and abrasive hand pads for the final-final.