rsquared
Well-Known Member
Then it's even easier, just shave down the bottom tab.that looks like a different pcb im using the jeffrey 2.0 and I also have some of the cherry phllip 4.0
Then it's even easier, just shave down the bottom tab.that looks like a different pcb im using the jeffrey 2.0 and I also have some of the cherry phllip 4.0
im was already all the way shaved down on my bottom tab on the jeffrey and i just shaved some off the top of the pcb too now seems i got one lid on tight.. perhaps this was the ticket... I still would be interested if the cap design could be improved at all. I found some custom bottle cap creators in openscad but I'm not the best at this stuff and I don't have a caliper so I doubt i can get accurate enough measurements to create a file to use as replacement caps or even start to modify to create a more rugged cap. Id definitley still be interested in this as a posibility as Im sure im not the only one who has broken a cap and now has a worthless tube ahaha data points since plopping it back on there seem stable now and make sense.. temp took a bit to stablize coming from out of the chamber. But it doesn’t look like it’s sinking anymore.Then it's even easier, just shave down the bottom tab.
Excellent tip I did that on my second board with the cherry Phillip and the lid closes no issues at all. Awesome I got both the cherry Phillip and the Jeffrey floating together in the beer with my two working caps now to see how they behave and make sure neither leak.I see... Cutting the corners of the cherry phillip pcb lets it sit a littler further in the tube which allows you to screw the lid on very tightly. I have had no leaking issues doing it that way. Not sure how the jeffery pcb sits but it may help that one too.
Ugh the Jeffrey one still leaks. It stopped reporting again so I fished it out I think this tube and lid combo is just bad. I’m going to wait until my new tubes arrive before I float this one again bad news is the leaking beer caused damage this time. It was running down into the switch caused it to gum up and break it. Verified with a load meter it wasn’t switching so I unsoldered the charger to kind of expose the switch to attempt to change it but it was too hard to change the switch I guess cause I screwed up those pads there probably cause it was difficult with the wemos in the way to unsolder cleanly that and IM terrible at Un-soldering . I need to get a wick my unsolder device is a suck tube thing and I’ve never gotten it to do a very clean job. After I couldn’t change the switch good news is with a new pcb I was able to at least save the charger and the gyro the wemos unfortunately did not live past my poor attempt at an unsolder... at least some components survived.Excellent tip I did that on my second board with the cherry Phillip and the lid closes no issues at all. Awesome I got both the cherry Phillip and the Jeffrey floating together in the beer with my two working caps now to see how they behave and make sure neither leak.
Any thoughts on whether or not this switch would work with the Jeffrey PCB?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Apem/MHSS1105?qs=pNV45xh2Ia0pDJDMcFqmnQ==
Thanks. I may try some in a pinch. The ones with the mechanical supports take forever to get in.The data sheet links are broken, but it looks right. The only measurement listed (switch travel) matches what I'm using, and I can't imagine the hole spacing being any different.
It is however missing the additional mechanical connections, so you would be relying on the three through hole solder joints to take the force of switching it on and off every time.
How many do you need? If it's only a couple, I've got a few spares I could toss in the mail...Thanks. I may try some in a pinch. The ones with the mechanical supports take forever to get in.
2-3 to get my by until the slow boat gets here with the others. I would gladly pay you for the spares. I hate to put you out though.How many do you need? If it's only a couple, I've got a few spares I could toss in the mail...
Any thoughts on whether or not this switch would work with the Jeffrey PCB?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Apem/MHSS1105?qs=pNV45xh2Ia0pDJDMcFqmnQ==
Diode ratings are maximums. 200mA 30V means that diode can pass up to 200mA of forward current and it can withstand up to 30V of reverse voltage. So, generally speaking, using a diode with higher voltage and current ratings won't matter.
However... The important thing about the diode in the iSpindel is that it's a Schottky diode. Schottky diodes have much lower forward voltage when conducting and switch much faster than standard diodes. So you can't use just any old diode that meets the voltage and current specs.
I can confirm the 100V Schottky diodes work just fine.I would guess (but, could not guarantee!) that nearly any Schottky diode would work here.
Just curious if I am the only one interested in doing this and if anyone can share their process if they have done it.
I have my iSpindels connected to brewers friend. It is nice to track the fermentation history with a specific batch. However, I am missing the quick dashboard to show gravity at a quick glance. I noticed that brewers friend has a post forwarding feature and I am intrigued if you can forward the data post requests coming into BrewersFriend over to ubidots. I am assuming the url would be something like things.udibots.com{token}
I am going to try this route.I do something similar to this but i use Fermentrac, which is a great piece of software if you have ispindels or diy brewpi devices. It is the same concept. I connect my ispindel to log the data to fermentrac and fermentrac has a forwarder setup that sends the data to brewers friend. Works very well and is pretty simple to setup.
I can answer the second question but would be interested in answers to the first question! No, you can't leave out any hardware without modifying the software. First thing the programme does is to check out the hardware and won't complete the boot process until it does.Hi Guys
Have been using Ispindel for a while now and am working on a fully sealed one with induction charger. All seems to be good but wondering is there a way that the reset action can be performed with a reed switch.
I am using the mikmonken 2.1 motherboard and a D1 mini.
The jeffery motherboard has 2 pins on it that are shorted to allow reset.
Any ideas?
Second question is i want to use an ispindel just for remote temperature monitoring of some fridges at work, will it still work if the accelerometer is left out for these special builds?
Thanks
Duncan
I can answer the second question but would be interested in answers to the first question! No, you can't leave out any hardware without modifying the software. First thing the programme does is to check out the hardware and won't complete the boot process until it does.
Chris
Thanks for this.There are tiny (thus very low current) "rolling ball" switches available. They're the environmentally safe version of a classic mercury switch in function. One might be positioned so standing the 'Spindle on its head shorts the Reset signal...
Cheers!
Hi Guys
Have been using Ispindel for a while now and am working on a fully sealed one with induction charger. All seems to be good but wondering is there a way that the reset action can be performed with a reed switch.
I am using the mikmonken 2.1 motherboard and a D1 mini.
The jeffery motherboard has 2 pins on it that are shorted to allow reset.
Any ideas?
The Jeffry reset closes a circuit between the RST and G pins on the D1 mini. This just duplicates the function of the reset switch on the D1 itself.
I'm not familiar with the mikmonken board, but it if those aren't broken out anywhere on the board, you should still be able to wire a reed switch connected directly to the D1.
Yes that's true.The switch on the Mikmonken board is not a reset switch. It is an on/off switch that cuts the positive 5v line from the LiPo charger to the Wemos.
ThFor one example of the "rolling ball" switch: Tilt ball switch.
This one weighs one gram, but there are bazillions of different versions in the wild, some even smaller/lighter...
Cheers!
Thanks for this. Useful link as well.For one example of the "rolling ball" switch: Tilt ball switch.
This one weighs one gram, but there are bazillions of different versions in the wild, some even smaller/lighter...
Cheers!
GreatFrom what has been posted it's clear you want to short the two pads - and there's no need to remove anything, you can have the two "switches" in parallel with no problems at all.
But, clearly, "orientation matters", when mounting the ball switch wrt what you want to accomplish. Without knowing the particulars - some switches will close with the ball at the bottom but I expect others will close with the ball at the top - you'll first want to experiment with an ohmmeter to glean how a particular switch operates then orient the switch wrt the PCB so it only closes with the whole 'Spindle assembly in some extreme "not operating" orientation (like, totally inverted as I mentioned earlier)...
Cheers!
So in the future if I replace my battery and need to check configuration/calibration what site should I use if ubidots is taking away free version?I am going to be moving away from Ubidots. In the near future they are going to be deprecating Ubidots for Education. This is/was their free version that allowed you to download the data. The future version of the free account will not let you download the data. In fact, on my last ferment I wasn't able to download the data from the Ubidots for Education account. I will likely just use my iSpindel connected to fermentrack and BrewPi Remix.
If you're not interested in downloading the data, Ubidots does have a nice graphical interface to view the data, however.
So in the future if I replace my battery and need to check configuration/calibration what site should I use if ubidots is taking away free version?
I do use fermentrack on a Pizero but I wasn’t sure if I could use that but now that I think about it I’m hitting myself in the head with a 2x4 for asking such a dumb question. Of course I can run thru calibration step wort in there. Yes I am afermentrack on a pizero works great for me. You can even update the firmware of your ispindels from your web app.
We did discuss these on page 24 when I broached the idea of a mercury tilt on off switch and found out they were a bit old hat ( and dangerous) . It was thought this could be a problem with high gravity beers with the ispindel floating more towards horizontal. Consequently interest in reed switch.
No, you can't leave out any hardware without modifying the software. First thing the programme does is to check out the hardware and won't complete the boot process until it does.
Chris
So in the future if I replace my battery and need to check configuration/calibration what site should I use if ubidots is taking away free version?
I have been using Brewspy for a while now. It's an app on your phone, not for computers, but that is not an issue for me. But you can download your data, compare fermentations etc. It's a one time pay for the app.
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