I just finished my spindel build. I am a Apple Computer user and don't know how to flash the board. Can anyone offer some advice about using this with a MAC? I would appreciate any help. Thanks.
Look up ESPTool. It is a python program that you run through Terminal.I'm in the same situation as you. Did you ever get any help or figure out how to flash your spindel? I would appreciate any help.
Thanks
Look up ESPTool. It is a python program that you run through Terminal.
Yes.I found an app called NodeMCU-PyFlash that is supposed to do the same thing, except self contained. Do I need to be connected to the spindel via USB to use one of these?
It's likely because there's no firmware loaded yet. There needs to be an "application" to receive and apply the flash. Pretty sure that the stock card doesn't have that capability. I've been wrong, but it seems to be correct given your experience so far.I found instructions on the Brewer's Friend website https://docs.brewersfriend.com/devices/ispindel#configuration that says you can load firmware over wifi. I can connect to it as an access point but when I try to go to 192.168.4.1 as instructed it won't open anything.
Does anyone have a link for the 3x4cm PCB? Can’t seem to find any that size. Otherwise, what else can I use?
Cheers in advance!
I ordered there, very nice pcb's, lack of communication there, but they do arrive after a while. And I ordered the V2 instead of the v2.1, as shown in the first pic which I tried to alter but they just didn't reply to my emails.Are you referring to this board on pcbs.io? I Believe it is approx. 3cm x 4 cm.
I ordered there, very nice pcb's, lack of communication there, but they do arrive after a while. And I ordered the V2 instead of the v2.1, as shown in the first pic which I tried to alter but they just didn't reply to my emails.
I also ordered here https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/W229678ASF3_iSpindle_V21.html You'll get $ 5 off of your first order if you'll sign up for the first time, so I got 10 for $11 including shipping. You can track the entire production process and you can allways check where your pcb's are:
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I also see people worrying about the green led that has to be removed according to the build instructions, I didn't remove the led nor the input diode(I just have to remember to disattach the battery when flashing over usb) I use a Samsung 3500mah battery which is in a fermenting sugar solution for the past almost 8 days with an update interval of 2 minutes, I am confident that this configuration will hold in a fermenting beer for 2 weeks with an update interval of 15 minutes, and my beers up to now are ready fermenting in a week max. Result of the battery:
View attachment 629495
I ordered there, very nice pcb's, lack of communication there, but they do arrive after a while. And I ordered the V2 instead of the v2.1, as shown in the first pic which I tried to alter but they just didn't reply to my emails.
I also ordered here https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/W229678ASF3_iSpindle_V21.html You'll get $ 5 off of your first order if you'll sign up for the first time, so I got 10 for $11 including shipping. You can track the entire production process and you can allways check where your pcb's are:
I also see people worrying about the green led that has to be removed according to the build instructions, I didn't remove the led nor the input diode(I just have to remember to disattach the battery when flashing over usb) I use a Samsung 3500mah battery which is in a fermenting sugar solution for the past almost 8 days with an update interval of 2 minutes, I am confident that this configuration will hold in a fermenting beer for 2 weeks with an update interval of 15 minutes, and my beers up to now are ready fermenting in a week max. Result of the battery:
Cheers @BreeBrew !
I thought from the most recent build/part instructions on ispindel.de that you use a standard 3x4cm PCB rather than one of the purpose made printed ones?
I’ve got all the other parts on the way but is the customer PCB what I am missing?
Thanks again!
My first build I did with the V2.1 and now that this came out pretty nice I am confident enough to do my second build with the V2, although the holes of the temp sensor are pretty close together so I hope the solder doesn't flow from one hole to anotherThe only difference between v2 and v2.1 is that I increased the spacing on the leads for the temp sensor. Making it a little easier to solder.
Identical in the sense of layout, not in the sense of material. The pcbs.io PCB's finish is ENIG (Lead Free Gold), the PCB's of pcbway finish is HASL with lead. Not that I care but someone mightThe pcbs.io and the pcbway boards are identical. I put them on pcbway after a European user requested it for easier shipping.
I am an European user and the only difference between the two is that from America it takes about a month to get here(NL) without any notifications from pcbs.io.I put them on pcbway after a European user requested it for easier shipping.
My first build I did with the V2.1 and now that this came out pretty nice I am confident enough to do my second build with the V2, although the holes of the temp sensor are pretty close together so I hope the solder doesn't flow from one hole to another
Identical in the sense of layout, not in the sense of material. The pcbs.io PCB's finish is ENIG (Lead Free Gold), the PCB's of pcbway finish is HASL with lead. Not that I care but someone might
I am an European user and the only difference between the two is that from America it takes about a month to get here(NL) without any notifications from pcbs.io.
From China it took about 2 weeks and the whole process is very transparent which I like. Next time I would opt for China again, if that ever occurs because I have 16 V2 and 10 v2.1
Thanks for the tipIf you get a couple of solder bridges, they are really easy to clean up with the tip of your iron. Or a little solder wick will do the trick if they are bad.
Thinking through this ... the tilt switch (or mercury switch) would potentially have the disadvantage of turning the unit off when calibrating at 90°. To work well, you would want it to only turn off when when sitting absolutely upside-down; therefore you would want to invert the circuit where a connection at the switch would turn off the board. Just spit-balling here but that would require a transistor (and create a small drain while "off") or a latching relay which there's not much room for.
Hopefully that makes sense. typing this while at work listening to other things.
Not exactly following that sir. I tried to Google up such a thing and ended up with jack and squat.Seems to me an Hg switch tube shaped in a semi circle would make that easier. Or maybe not. Hmmm....
People used to take Calomel for syphilis too ... While mercury fillings are proven to release only minute amounts of mercury, there's a large difference between pure/liquid mercury and an amalgam. Also, mercury switches are prohibited from equipment that processes food (although I've seen them as tilt alarms in vending machines). Mercury switches are also RoHS restricted. Sure we don't have to follow the rules, but there's reasons to have those rules. It's sealed in glass, sealed (we hope) in plastic I guess, but I'd just prefer not to have it in my fermenter I guess.Re the mercury and brewing. Not that long ago that we stuck mercury in glass in our mouths (other orifices also!).
Also amalgam fillings have metal in them.
So when that's on it's side (that first calibration) it will switch off:Look, just bend it up. will keep on in all working angles.
Calibrate cup up. or for 20° in water
https://www.sunrom.com/p/sw520d-sw-520d-tilt-sensor
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