iSpindle - DIY Electronic Hydrometer

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WeMos-D1-mini-PRO-analog-WiFi-D1-mini-PRO-integration-of-ESP8266-16Mb-flash-and-USB.jpg

this is the guy I have. I'm thinking it's the little black diode on the left near the bottom.
 
Could you use a mini magnetic reed switch that could be activated with a strong magnet to operate the switch from the outside of the tube?

moad said:
excellent thanks so much. I just got the new iphone so have the charging pad ready to go... awesome!

edit: actually thinking about it, won't you still need to open the lid to change the switch between "on" and "charge" or can the battery still be charged while it is running?
Click to expand...
 
Just want to let you know that how sensitive iSpindle can be.

I slowly lower the temperature from 24c to 20c, and the gravity reading rose from 1.0083 to 1.0092.
(It is exact the value, up to the forth decimal, according to the temperature compensation formula I found.)

tc-1.jpg


tc-2.jpg
 
pocketmon said:
Just want to let you know that how sensitive iSpindle can be.
Click to expand...

I've noticed similar behaviour. I now only consider the parts of the chart where temperature is stable.

Here's an example where a cold crash went from 20ºC to 12ºC, fermentation was finished and gravity stable (confirmed with a hydrometer) yet iSpindel shows it dropping (in line with the temperature drop). You can see that it starts to stabilise again as temperature becomes consistent.

5y7otuls.png
 
Screenshot 2017-10-30 11.38.05.png

So i got the base and the receiver for wireless charging and it looks like it can be charged and still report at the same time, no need to remove the lid, the iSpindel just gets a little warm but nothing to worry about i think.
 
ElChangoGuero said:
it looks like it can be charged and still report at the same time, no need to remove the lid, the iSpindel just gets a little warm but nothing to worry about i think.
Click to expand...

Wow, that's cool.

I've just run one for 22 days reporting every 5 mins without any battery problems, it was still going when I turned it off.
 
I can confirm the battery will charge.

Will it damage the battery much if it is completely drained between batches? I generally get a good run on so it won't be too long between them but would be good to know.
 
I'm a little confused by the calculation of the SG, my tilt reading went marginally UP from the initial reading however it has reported the SG dropping quite a bit.

It has dropped from 20 to 12, I assume it is taking temperature in to consideration in the SG calculation?

Capture1.JPG

Capture2.JPG
 
moad said:
I'm a little confused by the calculation of the SG, my tilt reading went marginally UP from the initial reading however it has reported the SG dropping quite a bit.

It has dropped from 20 to 12, I assume it is taking temperature in to consideration in the SG calculation?
Click to expand...

1. NO temperature correction is done in the mode. (Although I have thought of that.) One thing I noticed is that even temp. correction is applied, the gravity reading still changes when the temperature changes. (See the attached.)

2. Sometimes, the TILT value changes acutely. It happens from time to time. I thought it was caused by bumping, but it isn't. If it were caused by bumping, the successive readings should be normal. In my current brew, there are at least 4 occurrences.

3. The formula might be off when there is only TWO points available.

4. Your TILT value in 1.056 seems too low to me. Mine is around 50.


In first picture,
ligt blue: beer temp.
purple: calculated gravity
orange & green: Temp. corrected gravity( one uses BeerTemp, the other uses AuxTemp, temp. from iSpindel)

In second picture,
The gravity rose about 1 point between 06:00 and 12:00. It drop a point a day after.

In third picture,
Two rises of 1 point. The most interesting fact is that it rose gradually, in 40 minutes.(The report period is 10 minutes.). The fourth picture is zoom-in of the last change.

TC.jpg


bymp2.jpg


bump1.jpg


b3.jpg
 
My explanation about this phenomenon.

1. There is error of ACCELEROMETER sensor. Even if you put the iSpindel still on the ground, the TILT values still change. The range of mine is usually around 0.10~0.20, which will translate into around 0.4 gravity point. Given your tilt range is narrow, the error will be bigger in your system.

2. The ACCELEROMETER sensor is affected by the temperature. I didn't apply the compensation.
https://github.com/universam1/iSpindel/issues/6

3. I suspect that sometimes the krause might affect the iSpindel.
 
I meant to say it is NOT adjusting for temp. So it is being affected by the temperature drop :) Edit: I got myself confused this is not what I meant as the tilt values were the same (within 1 degree) but the SG was changing with temp changes. It could be that its because I only have a couple of values but still strange given it looks to be linear with only the two points (could be wrong). The other possibility is that it is calculating with the old equation I had in there, not sure if it applies the current "calibration" formula live or not.

I think you are right with krausen although I think it might be weighted down too much. I might need to move the weight further up the body, I'll run the calibration again on the next ferment where the pitching temp is the same as ferment temp and take the temperature out of the equation.

Thanks for the reply, loving the option of calibrating during ferment that was genius!
 
moad said:
I think you are right with krausen although I think it might be weighted down too much. I might need to move the weight further up the body, I'll run the calibration again on the next ferment where the pitching temp is the same as ferment temp and take the temperature out of the equation.
Click to expand...

Back when I was using the BeerBug it was common to see a similar bump near the beginning of fermentation. The torpedo weight the BeerBug used had a flat bottom, so the theory at the time as that as the beer was reaching high krausen CO2/proteins/yeast would get trapped underneath the torpedo or get stuck on the sides on their way up up causing the change in buoyancy. As that stuff unstuck itself you'd see the readings correct themselves, much like you're seeing here.

Robert
 
Just noticed something strange with the v2.4 set to beer constant 12 degrees. It got below this but continued to cool even though the fridge target temp was increasing...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=419401&stc=1&d=1509701601

CCDD6DE8-A46C-4EC0-962F-AD085A55D19C.png
 
Does the equation from the calibration apply live? Or you have to enter the formula in?

Could explain what I am seeing in terms of tilt and sg readings

edit: Ignore this, I read the release notes...
 
Fermenting chamber is a fridge, haven't changed any paramaters.

I cleared the eeprom, re-setup the devices and haven't seen the issue again. Everything is working well and the calibration is going well.

I think I am going to start logging locally rather than to ubidots, the layout is nice to be able to see everything in one place.

Capture.JPG
 
moad said:
Fermenting chamber is a fridge, haven't changed any paramaters.

I cleared the eeprom, re-setup the devices and haven't seen the issue again. Everything is working well and the calibration is going well.

I think I am going to start logging locally rather than to ubidots, the layout is nice to be able to see everything in one place.

View attachment 419680
Click to expand...

Although it IS expected, the gravity chart looks weird.
So I made a few changes
- use linear formula when there are only two calibration points available.
- temperature corrected the calculated gravity to 68F(20c).

You might need to try new code on Github.(the master branch now.)
 
Messed around the logged data, I confirm that temperature correction is necessary.
It also clarify that NON temperature correction readings should be used for calibration.

A wort at 2.6% BRIX will be 1.010@68F, 1.011@40F, and 1.009@75F. A iSpindel in wort of 1.010@68F, 1.011@40F, and 1.009@75F should report different TILT values, like a hydrometer showing different readings.
Let them be 23.5@68F, 25.6@40F, and 25.4@75F. If the derived formula is excellent, and it translates the tilt values
23.4 -> 1.009
23.5 -> 1.010
23.6 -> 1.011
The correct Specific Gravity can be derived by applying temperature correction.

tc.jpg
 
pocketmon said:
Although it IS expected, the gravity chart looks weird.
So I made a few changes
- use linear formula when there are only two calibration points available.
- temperature corrected the calculated gravity to 68F(20c).

You might need to try new code on Github.(the master branch now.)
Click to expand...

I was checking out the updated version history and I don't understand this line:

  • Default configurable minimum cooling/heating time & back-up sensor. (That is, Glycol supported.)

I've currently got the previous v24_ispindel version running with my glycol system (compiled with the glycol and throrrak mods enabled). Will I need to set anything up differently with this new version?

Thanks.
 
mdime said:
I was checking out the updated version history and I don't understand this line:



  • Default configurable minimum cooling/heating time & back-up sensor. (That is, Glycol supported.)



I've currently got the previous v24_ispindel version running with my glycol system (compiled with the glycol and throrrak mods enabled). Will I need to set anything up differently with this new version?



Thanks.
Click to expand...



No. Only the HTML/JS files are different. You can just update the index.htm if you know how to.
 
Pulling some wort to measure gravity in 3rd day.
The initial reading surprised me, so I spin the hydrometer to check again. 5 points less after removing the bubbles attached on the hydrometer by spinning!!!
That should be a good reason why the reading of iSpindel bumps up and down.

It also reminds me this hack of iSpindel, which uses a motor to vibrate iSpindel.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=As063Fy1lSQ[/ame]

Anybody here did that hack?
 
pocketmon said:
Pulling some wort to measure gravity in 3rd day.
The initial reading surprised me, so I spin the hydrometer to check again. 5 points less after removing the bubbles attached on the hydrometer by spinning!!!
That should be a good reason why the reading of iSpindel bumps up and down.

It also reminds me this hack of iSpindel, which uses a motor to vibrate iSpindel.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=As063Fy1lSQ

Anybody here did that hack?
Click to expand...

Did you calibrate you ispindel in a fermenting solution or just in various sugar solutions?

I think I read on the iSpindel github that calibrating it in a "live" fermentation allows the model to take into account the bubbles occuring during the fermentation.

Not sure how much more accurate that is in the short term, but my iSpindel has always been pretty close to the actual gravity.
 
Mikmonken said:
Did you calibrate you ispindel in a fermenting solution or just in various sugar solutions?

I think I read on the iSpindel github that calibrating it in a "live" fermentation allows the model to take into account the bubbles occuring during the fermentation.

Not sure how much more accurate that is in the short term, but my iSpindel has always been pretty close to the actual gravity.
Click to expand...

I used to use sugar water to calibrate. It was very accurate with error within 1.5 points. Now I am using "Brew and Calibrate", which enables calibrating and using it at the same time. It's surprisingly accurate as pre-calibrated one. I don't have any issue about accuracy.

I am talking about the phenomenon, which the readings bump up or down occasionally. About 1 point in this case.
attachment.php


It's nothing about calibration. The really TILT values changed acutely.

My theory:
The co2 bubbles might attach on iSpindel slowly. Sometimes, a group of bubbles might detach at the same time because of too many of them. The attachment and detachment of bubbles affect the TILT values.
 
New to this convo, apologies if i’ve missed the answer to this buried in the thread somewhere. I am confused as to how to implement temperature correction to determine the SG of my fermenting wort when using the ispindel. The last comment of universam1 on github seems to indicate that a variable has been made available to help implement this correction. (See attached) Has anyone had any success in getting a corrected SG number that is corrected automatically as the wort temperature goes up and down in the fermenter?
 

Attachments

  • F843178D-D491-4BD4-B325-3AE2D806BE97.jpeg
    F843178D-D491-4BD4-B325-3AE2D806BE97.jpeg
    477.2 KB · Views: 164
I am not 100% sure but it says that measurements are 150x50 mm so I think it should fit.

Will see next weekend and let you know.
 
Hello guys!

I have been using some time to order parts needed, and the remaining is the tube and sled. I have asked several people about 3D printers, and finally, tomorrow a friend can get it done for us.

Since I haven't ordered the tube yet, I want to make sure I get the correct part printed. Looking at the GitHub, there are several models, for what I assume to be slightly different PETling tubes. I've decided to order the one linked to from the GitHub. Can anyone confirm which model is the correct one?

It is the one here: http://cachers-world.de/de/Petling-XL

And there are several models here:
https://github.com/universam1/iSpindel/tree/master/drawer

Also, what about this model:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2225597


I know this is probably answered somewhere, but I can't find a definite answer. Hoping someone can help me make sure I am sending the correct model for print tomorrow.

After building a brewpi, I got hooked on learning more about electronics, and I love this community.
 
ShamanViking said:
Hello guys!

I have been using some time to order parts needed, and the remaining is the tube and sled. I have asked several people about 3D printers, and finally, tomorrow a friend can get it done for us.

Since I haven't ordered the tube yet, I want to make sure I get the correct part printed. Looking at the GitHub, there are several models, for what I assume to be slightly different PETling tubes. I've decided to order the one linked to from the GitHub. Can anyone confirm which model is the correct one?

It is the one here: http://cachers-world.de/de/Petling-XL

And there are several models here:
https://github.com/universam1/iSpindel/tree/master/drawer

Also, what about this model:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2225597


I know this is probably answered somewhere, but I can't find a definite answer. Hoping someone can help me make sure I am sending the correct model for print tomorrow.

After building a brewpi, I got hooked on learning more about electronics, and I love this community.
Click to expand...

I used the file from Thingiverse and can confirm that it fits the sled I ordered perfectly. But, I ordered the XXL PETling from ebay.
 
Thank you very much. Unfortunately this seller is in the us, so shipping will be expensive. If nobody else has any input, I might go for the same.
 
Guys I am struggling here... I’ve soldered up a couple of these and for the life of my I cannot flash them. Granted my soldering skills are pretty poor, but I’ve used a magnifying glass, and am fairly confident, at least for the last one that I have soldered, that it’s pretty solid.

I’ve used multiple different usb cables, and for some, windows will detect the usb device, but immediately lose the serial port.

I’ve got the charging usb plugged in at the same time as the flashing usb, is this correct? There’s lights on the charger, either red or green depending on the switch. Also, I’m powering it from a battery pack, I find that seems to work better than plugging it into a usb charger. I’ve tried flashing both usb 2 and usb 3 ports, same result.

Any ideas?
 
PeteZA said:
Guys I am struggling here...
Click to expand...

What are you using to flash the Wemos? Have you installed the ch341 driver for Windows?

Did you remember to remove the appropriate diode on the Wemos? If you forgot, it will recognize the Wemos for a few seconds before it self destructs. (guess how I know)

Edit: Also, you should have the battery fully charged and the power on when flashing. Because when the diode is removed it is no longer powered by the USB connector.

You can see my struggles here.
 
Last edited:

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