IPA and Yeast

[kombat]

If a brewer is satisfied with the results then he is pitching correctly. QED.

And maybe I like to substitute 2 cups of sugar with 2 cups of salt when I'm baking a cake. I like the flavour. Who are you to tell me I'm making it wrong?

 

[Nicknack]

If a brewer is satisfied with the results then he is pitching correctly. QED.

A person being satisfied with the flavor of the beer doesn't at all mean that he/she didn't under pitch the yeast. They under pitched the yeast if they didn't put enough in the wort. All that being satisfied means is that in this case, they don't mind their under pitched brew.

 

[rwing7486]

This thread is becoming a great day time SOAP

 

[brewprint]

Dude, just ... stop. You're embarrassing yourself.

From the Fermentis website:

"Rehydration Instructions - Sprinkle the yeast in minimum 10 times its weight of sterile water or wort at 27°C ± 3°C (80°F ± 6°F). Leave to rest 15 to 30 minutes. Gently stir for 30 minutes, and pitch the resultant cream into the fermentation vessel."

EDIT: Heh, just noticed 2 other posters beat me to the punch.

I already corrected myself...so dude just read; you're embarrassing yourself

Besides, I didn't feel that it was necessary to go online and get instructions since it clearly states on the package to pitch into the wort. It doesn't say to go online and get re-hydrating instructions.

 

[tim_c7]

A person being satisfied with the flavor of the beer doesn't at all mean that he/she didn't under pitch the yeast. They under pitched the yeast if they didn't put enough in the wort. All that being satisfied means is that in this case, they don't mind their under pitched brew.

Sorry Nicknack,

But, you are missing the point of homebrewing. Homebrewing is all about doing what you want. That is what a lot of us actually do, whatever we want.
There are plenty of valid reasons to pitch over and under whatever a calculator tells you. And the only thing that matters is what you think of the beer.

I always pitch exactly what I want. So I never under-pitch. Except for that time when I spilled yeast while pouring it into the fermenter. But, even in that case, I still made beer and the dog got to lick up a tasty mess on the floor. So I won and the dog did too.

So pitch one packet or two, hydrated or not. Pitch one package of liquid yeast or build up a starter. Wash your yeast cake or just pour new wort right on top. Make the beer that you want. I know I do.

 

[Nicknack]

But, you are missing the point of homebrewing. Homebrewing is all about doing what you want. That is what a lot of us actually do, whatever we want.

I don't think so, Tim. The point of home brewing, as you put it, is precisely why I got into the hobby and why I really enjoy it. I think you misinterpreted my post. If he likes the beer while under pitching the yeast, who cares. It doesn't matter to me at all nor should it. All that matters is the person drinking it.

 

[m00ps]

I predict, in the time its gonna take you guys to settle this argument, I will have brewed 6 IPAs

 

[Nicknack]

Just don't under pitch the yeast!

 

[slym2none]

This is probably the point where the agree to disagree thing comes into play.

Has that ever happened in the history of the internet?

 

[rwing7486]

What is yeast?

 

[Nicknack]

Your question mirrors one of my original ones. What I learned was yes, you can re-hydrate all the yeast together and then pitch it at the same time. Since my brew has a 1.070 OG and calls for 1.2 packets of yeast (according to Mr Malty), I will probably just use one. The beer after this one that I intend to make has a 1.086 OG and calls for 1.4 packets of yeast. That being the case, I'll probably just use 1 1/2 packets.

 

[brewprint]

Your question mirrors one of my original ones. What I learned was yes, you can re-hydrate all the yeast together and then pitch it at the same time. Since my brew has a 1.070 OG and calls for 1.2 packets of yeast (according to Mr Malty), I will probably just use one. The beer after this one that I intend to make has a 1.086 OG and calls for 1.4 packets of yeast. That being the case, I'll probably just use 1 1/2 packets.

Uh Oh! Better not...you're just asking for off flavors!

 

[Nicknack]

I recently ordered a Brewer's Best Double IPA. The instructions state...

8. PITCH YEAST
Sprinkle the contents of the yeast sachet over top of the entire wort surface (DO NOT
REHYDRATE) and stir well with sanitized spoon or paddle. Firmly secure the lid onto the
fermenter. Fill your airlock halfway with water and gently twist the airlock into the grommeted lid. Move fermenter to a dark, warm, temperature-stable area (approx. 64º - 72ºF).

Question: I know some yeasts state that you don't "need" to re-hydrate, but why would these instructions tell you NOT to re-hydrate. Would you anyway? I just received the kit today and it comes with US-05. Other kits (from Northern Brewer) that I have don't tell me not to re-hydrate.

 

[brewprint]

I recently ordered a Brewer's Best Double IPA. The instructions state...

8. PITCH YEAST
Sprinkle the contents of the yeast sachet over top of the entire wort surface (DO NOT
REHYDRATE) and stir well with sanitized spoon or paddle. Firmly secure the lid onto the
fermenter. Fill your airlock halfway with water and gently twist the airlock into the grommeted lid. Move fermenter to a dark, warm, temperature-stable area (approx. 64º - 72ºF).

Question: I know some yeasts state that you don't "need" to re-hydrate, but why would these instructions tell you NOT to re-hydrate. Would you anyway? I just received the kit today and it comes with US-05.

Well I can already tell you the response that you'll get.

"Those are out-dated instructions."

To be honest I really don't know. Their instructions do not have the wort aerated either. I cannot imagine that those instructions are out-dated. Those kits are so popular...why change something that works so well?

RDWAHAHB and don't re-hydrate and just pitch.

 

[Nicknack]

Brewprint... I understand where you are coming from and that's fine. However, I would like to be able to have a dialogue around the reasons that I started the thread. If you want to discuss the points you made in further detail, I suggest starting a new thread rather than constantly trying to hy-jack this one. Thanks -

 

[brewprint]

Brewprint... I understand where you are coming from and that's fine. However, I would like to be able to have a dialogue around the reasons that I started the thread. If you want to discuss the points you made in further detail, I suggest starting a new thread rather than constantly trying to hy-jack this one. Thanks -

You asked a question...I tried to answer it the best that I could. SMH

 

[Aristotelian]

You asked a question...I tried to answer it the best that I could. SMH

Haha. I thought it was a valid answer. He is probably having flashbacks to the rest of the thread.

I think the advantage of not rehydrating is it just cuts out a step where poor sanitation could cause you a problem. The disadvantage is that it may take longer to start, which could also pose an infection risk. Either way, the risk is pretty minimal so you might as well go with the easiest method and sprinkle away.

 

[Nicknack]

Yeah, but half of his thread was again, bringing up things that are not helpful such as what he thinks others will say and the fact that he doesn't know. If you don't know, maybe don't respond and allow others who do. Seems like a bit of trolling. Anyway...

As someone new to brewing, just when I start to think I'm getting my arms around some things, I get perplexed once again. So many long-term brewers have stated (and/or told me) that when brewing something with such a high OG (1.080), I should definitely re-hydrate the yeast. Not only that, but most of the threads I've read, brewers are recommending that with most brews you should re-hydrate the yeast. Even more confusing is the fact that one recipe (with the same exact OG) doesn't mention anything either way about re-hydrating the yeast and then I get another recipe kit that not only doesn't mention it but clearly instructs me against re-hydrating.



Other thoughts?

 

[pablosbrewing]

Wow I am surprised it fermented that far down - that is 91% attenuation which I have never seen before with US05. Did you have allot of Dextrose in your recipe?

I had a 147-148F mashed all pale malt, OG 1.053, ferment down to 1.005 with US-05. Real Attenuation 75.4%, Apparent Attenuation 92.1%

I had never had US-05 go that low, but I've commonly had 1.007-1.010. That one was so low I verified FG with multiple instruments and checked calbrations. Gravity was stable 10 days prior to kegging, no sign of infection.

Aeration stone with pump for 1 hour, rehydrated, pitched 66F fermented 65-66F.

 

[brewprint]

I had a 147-148F mashed all pale malt, OG 1.053, ferment down to 1.005 with US-05. Real Attenuation 75.4%, Apparent Attenuation 92.1%

I had never had US-05 go that low, but I've commonly had 1.007-1.010. That one was so low I verified FG with multiple instruments and checked calbrations. Gravity was stable 10 days prior to kegging, no sign of infection.

Aeration stone with pump for 1 hour, rehydrated, pitched 66F fermented 65-66F.

I just ended the Two Hearted clone at 83% which is a little closer to spec. The stuff works awesome. That started at 1.063 and went down to 1.011 and fermented at 63-64F ambient. (1 pack sprinkled directly into the wort)

 

[slym2none]

Your question mirrors one of my original ones. What I learned was yes, you can re-hydrate all the yeast together and then pitch it at the same time. Since my brew has a 1.070 OG and calls for 1.2 packets of yeast (according to Mr Malty), I will probably just use one. The beer after this one that I intend to make has a 1.086 OG and calls for 1.4 packets of yeast. That being the case, I'll probably just use 1 1/2 packets.

If it's the same yeast, you could scoop out half the layer of sediment and dump your wort right on top of what's left.

Sorry, might be there...

 

[TexasDroughtBrewery]

Just Brewed my first IPA yesterday I hit OG 1.066 and when I was at my LHBS they recommended I used two packages of US-05 saying that one would "work" but to be safe for high gravity two would be best.

 

[Nicknack]

Just Brewed my first IPA yesterday I hit OG 1.066 and when I was at my LHBS they recommended I used two packages of US-05 saying that one would "work" but to be safe for high gravity two would be best.

Yeah, I've heard from many people that when you get beyond 1.060 (sort of a rule of thumb) is to use two packets in most situations. However, I don't understand the logic because when you do the calculations of how much yeast you need (i.e. Mr Malty), two packets isn't needed for a beer like what you made at 1.066. At 1.066, one yeast packet (1.1 to be exact) should only be what is needed. I don't really know the answer unfortunately.

 

[pablosbrewing]

Yeah, I've heard from many people that when you get beyond 1.060 (sort of a rule of thumb) is to use two packets in most situations. However, I don't understand the logic because when you do the calculations of how much yeast you need (i.e. Mr Malty), two packets isn't needed for a beer like what you made at 1.066. At 1.066, one yeast packet (1.1 to be exact) should only be what is needed. I don't really know the answer unfortunately.

Since our other conditions may not be optimal (rehydration*, pitch temp, oxygenation, mfg date) overpitch is considered by most as the lesser evil compared to underpitch for dry yeast, and so we just round up to the next full pack (1.1 -> 2).

*Note: MrMalty assumes rehydration (from his book with Chris White, PhD: sprinkling directly into wort kills as many as 50% of dry yeast cells).

edit: Chris and Jamil's book "Yeast" can be found on Amazon http://amzn.to/1KVdSRl

 

[TexasDroughtBrewery]

I think its better to be safe than sorry. I would over pitch rather than under pitch any day.

 

[Nicknack]

Just what I've seen on this thread, people are all over the place on how much yeast to use. Some recommended that I only use one packet for a 1.070 brew while others are now saying they would use two for a 1.066 brew. Nonetheless, I appreciate all of the replies (most of them anyway).

 

[BrotherBock]

As if there isn't enough contention already going on this thread, I'm gonna throw this out there too.

Brew Like a Monk talks about how some trappist breweries will purposely "underpitch" to get the ester character that they want. I believe this is also done with consideration to how much O2 they are or are not adding to their wort.

 

[rwing7486]

Just what I've seen on this thread, people are all over the place on how much yeast to use. Some recommended that I only use one packet for a 1.070 brew while others are now saying they would use two for a 1.066 brew. Nonetheless, I appreciate all of the replies (most of them anyway).

Look at what the MFG date is on the yeast packet. US05 is 2 years prior from expiration date listed. The older the yeast the less viable cells. I.e. Just brewed an American stout yesterday with a SG of 1.064. I changed the date to match the expiration date in Mr Malty and it suggested a 1.4 packets of yeast ( 16.1 total grams). Luckily I had half a packet leftover of US05 from the previous weekend I brewed.

 

[Nicknack]

.

 

[Nicknack]

Look at what the MFG date is on the yeast packet. US05 is 2 years prior from expiration date listed. The older the yeast the less viable cells. I.e. Just brewed an American stout yesterday with a SG of 1.064. I changed the date to match the expiration date in Mr Malty and it suggested a 1.4 packets of yeast ( 16.1 total grams). Luckily I had half a packet leftover of US05 from the previous weekend I brewed.

Good info, rwing. I was wondering how you would know the production date when all that is listed is the expiration date. The US-05 yeast that I have at home, I believe expires on June, 2017. That being the case, the production date would be June, 2015? If so, that would take the needed amount of yeast for a 1.070 OG from 1.2 to 1.4 packets.

Also, if I use half a packet of yeast, is there a better way of storing the leftover yeast than putting in a zip-lock bag?