Instructions problem. Help please.

[BrewnWKopperKat]

maybe measuring the SG at the top of the wort and the bottom of the wort could "prove"/"disprove" stratification.

So, not crazy off. [... ] I'm confident the total volume is darn close (to within a quart).

If you brew using this process again, can you take two SG measurements:
1) from the bottom of the wort (using the spigot)
2) one from the top of the wort
?

 

[BrewZer]

This'll be my last crack at this: just how thick was the extract in the two jars you added? Have you used them before, and did the syrup/extract seem a lot thicker than before? Did you heat them, and did they pour, or did you have to shovel out the contents?

 

[DuncB]

One way to work out whether you really did have an accurater water ( liquid ) volume would be to weigh the ferment vessel now and mark the level the liquid is at. Then when ferment finished re weigh the empty vessel and also reweigh when topped up to the level you filled to.
Then should be able to work out how much liquid you really had.

 

[foscojo]

maybe measuring the SG at the top of the wort and the bottom of the wort could "prove"/"disprove" stratification.


If you brew using this process again, can you take two SG measurements:
1) from the bottom of the wort (using the spigot)
2) one from the top of the wort
?

I think going forward I'll just take it from the top and ensure it is a clear sample.

 

[foscojo]

This'll be my last crack at this: just how thick was the extract in the two jars you added? Have you used them before, and did the syrup/extract seem a lot thicker than before? Did you heat them, and did they pour, or did you have to shovel out the contents?

I've never used it before. This is only my 3rd batch so I don't have much to compare it to. I did not hear them. I just slow poured with one hand and stirred with the other. Then scooped some hot wort in and swished them around a couple of times.

And this will be the last time I monkey around with LME. Not a fan of the big sticky mess. DME only until I can save up to upgrade my kettle and go BIAB.

 

[DuncB]

Quoting Ken Shales from Brewing Better Beers ( 1967 ) " Some home brewers prefer to use dried malt extracts in powder form because they find them easy to handle. I very rarely do; having served my time as a paint technologist, the handling of sticky liquids is no problem to me."

The point is most of us haven't trained as paint technologists and sticky is sticky in my opinion.

Not a BIAB person myself using electric all in one.
But don't you just need a bag to go in your kettle? That's not a big upgrade. Milled grains probably cheaper than the extract anyway.

 

[foscojo]

Quoting Ken Shales from Brewing Better Beers ( 1967 ) " Some home brewers prefer to use dried malt extracts in powder form because they find them easy to handle. I very rarely do; having served my time as a paint technologist, the handling of stick liquids is no problem to me."

The point is most of us haven't and sticky is sticky in my opinion as well.

Not a BIAB person myself using electric all in one.
But don't you just need a bag to go in your kettle? That's not a big upgrade. Milled grains probably cheaper than the extract anyway.

Sure. But a 5 gallon soup pot means I can't do 5 gallon batches. You need at least an 8, 10 is better which is what I'll be getting.

I started brewing 1 gallon batches but quickly realized that for me 10 beers it isn't worth the effort.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

I think going forward I'll just take it from the top and ensure it is a clear sample.

If the problem is stratification, it might be helpful to measure the wort in a couple of places.

 

[IslandLizard]

I used pounds. Here are the exact products I bought. I had no other extracts other that these. I used all of these.View attachment 723801

Given those prices being equal, realize DME gives you around 22% more gravity per pound than LME would (44.7 / 36.6).
Alas, LME comes in 3.3# containers, and DME in 3# bags, so you do get 10% more product using LME.

Reason #1:
LME: 3.3 lbs * 36.6 ppg = 120.78 pts/gallon
DME: 3 lbs * 44.7 ppg= 134.1 pts/gallon
So for the same price you'd get 134.1 / 120.78 = 11% more gravity or wort/beer using DME vs. LME.

Reason #2:
DME keeps much better over time than LME. When kept dark and dry (such as in original sealed bags), for many, many years. 5-10+ years, I have evidence of that.
In contrary to DME's fairly stable storage properties, the quality of LME goes downhill from the day it's made. LME oxidizes slowly, like (real) honey does, getting darker over time and developing what's often called a "twang." Generally, DME will taste fresher than LME, unless your LME is very, very fresh and was stored cold. At best, most off the shelf cans of LME are a few months old, usually worse.

For those reasons, I'd use either Pilsen Light DME or Golden Light DME. There's also a Bavarian Wheat DME for wheat beers. Then use steeping grains for color and flavor.

 

[IslandLizard]

If the problem is stratification, it might be helpful to measure the wort in a couple of places.

I'd say: mix better, thoroughly!
Stir, shake, whatever it takes.

Otherwise, it's always gonna be a toss up which reading is correct.

 

[foscojo]

Given those prices being equal, realize DME gives you around 22% more gravity per pound than LME would (44.7 / 36.6).
Alas, LME comes in 3.3# containers, and DME in 3# bags, so you do get 10% more product using LME.

Reason #1:
LME: 3.3 lbs * 36.6 ppg = 120.78 pts/gallon
DME: 3 lbs * 44.7 ppg= 134.1 pts/gallon
So for the same price you'd get 134.1 / 120.78 = 11% more gravity or wort/beer using DME vs. LME.

Reason #2:
DME keeps much better over time than LME. When kept dark and dry (such as in original sealed bags), for many, many years. 5-10+ years, I have evidence of that.
In contrary to DME's fairly stable storage properties, the quality of LME goes downhill from the day it's made. LME oxidizes slowly, like (real) honey does, getting darker over time and developing what's often called a "twang." Generally, DME will taste fresher than LME, unless your LME is very, very fresh and was stored cold. At best, most off the shelf cans of LME are a few months old, usually worse.

For those reasons, I'd use either Pilsen Light DME or Golden Light DME. There's also a Bavarian Wheat DME for wheat beers. Then use steeping grains for color and flavor.

I used those exact products and amounts per the official Two Hearted IPA recipe published by Bell's Brewing on their website.

https://store.bellsbeer.com/collect.../two-hearted-ale-clone-extract-ingredient-kit

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

I'd say: mix better, thoroughly!
Stir, shake, whatever it takes.

Agreed. Given the amount of effort OP put into mixing, it appears that either more effort or different effort is needed to get a uniform wort.

The idea was, if OP was interested, to take a couple of SG measurements to see how effective the mixing efforts were.

 

[IslandLizard]

I started brewing 1 gallon batches but quickly realized that for me 10 beers it isn't worth the effort.

Yeah, you got that right!
Between prep and cleanup, and the wait to ferment and condition it's barely worth the beer it yields.

But you could brew 3 to 5 different 1-gallon or 2-2.5 gallon batches in an afternoon. Such as a variety of IPAs using different hops for each.

Sure. But a 5 gallon soup pot means I can't do 5 gallon batches. You need at least an 8, 10 is better which is what I'll be getting.

You could when using a 2nd or even 3rd (large) pot.
If you're brewing on the kitchen stove, spreading the boil over 2-3 kettles/pots (rather than 1 huge kettle) works to your advantage as many kitchen ranges aren't powered to boil (or even support the weight of) such a large volume without jumping through hoops.

I bought a 3500W (240V) induction plate for $190, and never looked back. I can even brew 10 gallon batches on it, when putting some insulation around the (large) 15 gallon kettle. But I usually brew 2 different 5-gallon batches back to back, to get some variety.

 

[IslandLizard]

I used those exact products and amounts per the official Two Hearted IPA recipe published by Bell's Brewing on their website.

https://store.bellsbeer.com/collect.../two-hearted-ale-clone-extract-ingredient-kit

But you don't have to...

You can easily substitute DME for the cans of LME.
Use 36.6 / 44.7 = 0.82 lbs of DME for each pound of LME.

In that recipe's case, use:
0.82 * 6.6 lbs LME = 5.4 lbs of (Golden Light) DME for the same gravity.

 

[foscojo]

But you could brew 3 to 5 different 1-gallon or 2-2.5 gallon batches in an afternoon. Such as a variety of IPAs using different hops for each.

You could when using a 2nd or even 3rd (large) pot.
If you're brewing on the kitchen stove, spreading the boil over 2-3 kettles/pots (rather than 1 huge kettle) works to your advantage as many kitchen ranges aren't powered to boil (or even support the weight of) such a large volume without jumping through hoops.

I thought about that but I am brewing outside because my wife and daughter complain about the smell. Crazy right? What's wrong with them? So with one propane burner (that I just bought) and one 5 gallon pot I do not have other options. I'm going to get a cheap 10 gallon (Bayou Classic or GasOne) on Amazon. That will at least eliminate that issue as well allow BIAB. Two birds, one kettle.

 

[foscojo]

But you don't have to...

Oh, for sure. I mentioned in an earlier comment that I'll never use LME again. This is the first time trying a Two Hearted clone so I just wanted to follow the official Bell's recipe.

 

[IslandLizard]

I'm going to get a cheap 10 gallon (Bayou Classic or GasOne) on Amazon.

For 5 gallon BIAB (all grain) brews you'd be better off with a 15 gallon kettle, especially if you want to do full volume mashes, and/or higher gravity brews, as it needs to hold close to 10 gallons of (strike) water PLUS the volume of the grain bag. Keep in mind, you'd want at least 2" of headspace above the mash to be able to stir without splashing. More headspace is better.

A 10 gallon would be too small for that, unless you sparge the bag in a different vessel (such as in a large bucket).* By doing a (separate) sparge you may enjoy a somewhat higher mash efficiency too.

https://biabcalculator.com/
* Since you're outside, a little dripping and splashing from the bag during transfers and dunking is allowed.

 

[VikeMan]

But you don't have to...

You can easily substitute DME for the cans of LME.
Use 36.6 / 44.7 = 0.82 lbs of DME for each pound of LME.

In that recipe's case, use:
0.82 * 6.6 lbs LME = 5.4 lbs of (Golden Light) DME for the same gravity.

Amazing how kit recipes manage to hit exactly the "intended" OG by using LME in multiples of 3.3 lbs and DME in multiples of 1 lb. I guess the challenge for Bell's was translating their original extract recipe into all grain for mass production.

 

[Brewski_59]

For 5 gallon BIAB (all grain) brews you'd be better off with a 15 gallon kettle, especially if you want to do full volume mashes, and/or higher gravity brews, as it needs to hold close to 10 gallons of (strike) water PLUS the volume of the grain bag. Keep in mind, you'd want at least 2" of headspace above the mash to be able to stir without splashing. More headspace is better.

A 10 gallon would be too small for that, unless you sparge the bag in a different vessel (such as in a large bucket).* By doing a (separate) sparge you may enjoy a somewhat higher mash efficiency too.

https://biabcalculator.com/
* Since you're outside, a little dripping and splashing from the bag during transfers and dunking is allowed.

Agree on this, bigger is better when it comes to kettles. you should look for 15 gal. then your set for just about anything. I have a 20 gal and stopped worrying about boil overs, or lack of space for big batches, etc.

 

[BrewZer]

Sure. But a 5 gallon soup pot means I can't do 5 gallon batches. You need at least an 8, 10 is better which is what I'll be getting.

If you've got 80 bucks, Wayfair has Bayou Classic's 11-gallon SS pot -- with basket and vented lid -- on sale right now including shipping. I'm using it for AG BIAB 5-gallon batches.

 

[hotbeer]

Interesting read for me. Skipped a few though. But quite a bit of info that helps with calculating various things and using good examples.

The one thing I've missed though is if you put anything in the fermenter and if so, how is that looking now?

 

[foscojo]

Interesting read for me. Skipped a few though. But quite a bit of info that helps with calculating various things and using good examples.

The one thing I've missed though is if you put anything in the fermenter and if so, how is that looking now?

Yes, all the mort got in there then topped up with water to 5.25 gallons. Yeast has been pitched. I have a FerMonster with a BrewJacket so I can't see it, though. I may peel down the insulated jacket and take a peek. I'll reply if I do.

 

[foscojo]

If you've got 80 bucks, Wayfair has Bayou Classic's 11-gallon SS pot -- with basket and vented lid -- on sale right now including shipping. I'm using it for AG BIAB 5-gallon batches.

Adventures in Homebrewing has a 16 gallon on sale for $82. Unfortunately, I'm tapped out. It'll take me months to save up that much. Hobbies during the apocalypse carry a low budget.

 

[foscojo]

The one thing I've missed though is if you put anything in the fermenter and if so, how is that looking now?

I gotta peek at it. It has a couple of inches of krausen on top and bubbles coming from the blowoff jug.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

But quite a bit of info that helps with calculating various things and using good examples.

A visual +1 for @VikeMan who is really good with the math (and the examples).

 

[Kickass]

I think going forward I'll just take it from the top and ensure it is a clear sample.

This only means you’ll have the opposite problem: you’ll show a lower than actual gravity. The answer is to thoroughly stir.

My money is on stratification. The wort around the spigot was the most dense. Thus your reading was higher than the average of the entire wort.