Kolsch recipe - need help

[gwind]

I went to my local homebrew store and bought ingredients for a 5 gallon home brew Kolsch. The store was out of the Brewers Best Boxes, which is what I am used to, so the owner picked out ingredients for me and told me to look up a Kolsch recipe. I've done some research and believe I have a good recipe, but would like some more experience homebrewers to double check me. I'm open to corrections and any advice! Thank you in advance!

Ingredients:
1 lb Belgian Pils Malt
2x 3.3 LB Pilsen Light LME (6.6 lb total)
1 oz Sazz hops
1 oz Hallertauer hopz
Kveik dry ale yeast (11 g)

Here is my recipie:
1) Wort - add 1 lb belgian pils malt into 2.5 of water at 150 F - 160 F. Steep for 20 min. Remove malt bag.
2) Boil - bring wort to boil. Add 3.3 LB Pilsen Light LME. Stir and bring back to a boil. Boil for 60 min total.
30 min in add 1 oz Saaz hops
45 min in add 3.3 LB Pilsen LME
50 min in add 1 oz Hallertauer hops
end boil at 60 min
3) Cool wort to 70 F. Take OG. OG: 1.045 - 1.049
4) Add water to wort until it reaches 5 gallons.
5) Re-hydrate yeast per package instructions. Pitch yeast into wort.
6) Ferment for 4-6 days. FG: 1.010 - 1.013

In general, I like less-hoppy beers which I know means adding hops later in the boil. My biggest two questions are:
1) When, if at all, should I add the second 3.3 LB Pilsen Light LME?
2) When should the 1 oz Saaz and 1 oz Hallertauer hops be added during the boil? Should I split the 1 oz of Sazz hops into 2x .5 oz portions?

 

[DonT]

Any reason for the Kveik? I would use a kolsch yeast like WLP029....

 

[gwind]

Any reason for the Kveik? I would use a kolsch yeast like WLP029....

Kveik is what they recommended to me. I was most interested in the Belgian Pilsner Malt then they built it out from there.

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

I'd guess kveik because no temp control? Also you have listed to check OG then top off with water. You should check OG after you top off with water.

 

[wdavis2003]

Only knock on the recipe would be the Kveik yeast. This could be considered a pseudo-Kolsch I suppose.

When you use a proper Kolsch yeast it gives it that Kolsch character (lack of a better term) which I perceive as red apple. Balances beautifully with the malt.

My last Kolsch was 95% Pilsner 5% White Wheat Malt or maybe it was 90/10

 

[gwind]

Only knock on the recipe would be the Kveik yeast. This could be considered a pseudo-Kolsch I suppose.

When you use a proper Kolsch yeast it gives it that Kolsch character (lack of a better term) which I perceive as red apple. Balances beautifully with the malt.

My last Kolsch was 95% Pilsner 5% White Wheat Malt or maybe it was 90/10

I did say I enjoyed Belgian-style beers and was new to brewing. Maybe they picked this one out since it seems like its an easier yeast to use? It also says can make lager-style beers in an ale-length fermentation period. Maybe they used this since everything else was a Pilsner (malt and LME). It also looks like its popular for Berliners and goses, so not sure why they recommended it.

 

[wdavis2003]

I did say I enjoyed Belgian-style beers and was new to brewing. Maybe they picked this one out since it seems like its an easier yeast to use? It also says can make lager-style beers in an ale-length fermentation period. Maybe they used this since everything else was a Pilsner (malt and LME). It also looks like its popular for Berliners and goses, so not sure why they recommended it.

Yeah it sounds like they pushed you in the direction of a yeast that is more suitable for newer brewers without the ability to control fermentation temperatures.

You should be able to create a good beer with that recipe.

 

[Zippy123]

I agree with others, the recommendation of Kveik is a mystery to me. Perhaps they were out of a dry Kolsch yeast. The Kveik will be fail-safe for sure but will not produce the best flavor profile for the style. I have used LalBrew Koln Kolsch dry yeast with great success a number of times, even up to 70 deg with good results. That yeast is my go-to for that style as well as a cream ale similar to spotted cow.

I also agree with others the recipe should produce a good beer even if it's "not to style". You don't have to brew to style to make good beer. I would say if you like the results then it was a success.

 

[gwind]

Thanks all for the comments! I brewed the beer yesterday and saw bubbles in the airlock this morning. I will post how it turns out.

 

[CascadesBrewer]

Kveik dry ale yeast (11 g)

Question: was this yeast Lutra or Voss? Or something else? Of those two, Lutra is the more neutral strain.

If you are not sure, I believe that dry Lutra is only sold by Omega. Voss is sold by a few different vendors and it may or may not clearly state that it is Voss. I know there are some other dry Kveik strains sold in Europe, but Lutra and Voss are the most common dried version in the US.

 

[gwind]

Question: was this yeast Lutra or Voss? Or something else? Of those two, Lutra is the more neutral strain.

If you are not sure, I believe that dry Lutra is only sold by Omega. Voss is sold by a few different vendors and it may or may not clearly state that it is Voss. I know there are some other dry Kveik strains sold in Europe, but Lutra and Voss are the most common dried version in the US.

I am not sure the brand, I threw out the package and did not take a photo of it.

 

[gwind]

Finished the fermentation after 5 days and bottled tonight! The FG was 1.025, which was higher than my goal of 1.010-1.015. My ABV should be around 3%. Guess I'll have to call it a "session" kolsch.

I noticed this at the bottom of my fermentation vessel. It doesn't look like an infection, but can anyone tell me why it looks like this or what it is? Thanks!

 

[tdf]

If your gravity reading was really 1.025 the beer probably wasn't done and you've got a high potential for bottle bombs.

Did you use a refractometer to measure? If so you'll need to apply a correction factor to get the real gravity reading: Refractometer Calculator - Brewer's Friend

If you used a hydrometer it's probably not done fermenting and I fear you may end up with bottle bombs.

 

[IslandLizard]

I noticed this at the bottom of my fermentation vessel. It doesn't look like an infection, but can anyone tell me why it looks like this or what it is? Thanks!

It's a cake of settled out trub and yeast.

You can reuse some of it in your next brew.
Save the yeast in a mason jar and keep in the fridge for a few months (or even longer). Keep the lid on a little loosely for the first 2 days in case it's still fermenting.

Good sanitation is important when handling or storing yeast.

 

[IslandLizard]

A few more pointers:

1) Wort - add 1 lb belgian pils malt into 2.5 of water at 150 F - 160 F. Steep for 20 min. Remove malt bag.

Base malts such as Pils Malt need to be mashed, not steeped.

Although mashing is similar to steeping, (soaking in hot water) a mash needs a longer time at a more precisely controlled temperature. It also needs to be mixed very thoroughly with the water to completely hydrate all grist particles. During mashing, the starches in the malt are being converted to sugars by enzymes, needing a controlled temp between 148F and 158F for about an hour. The hotter the mash, the less fermentable the resulting wort.

During steeping, sugars and other flavor contributing compounds in the malt/grain are simply extracted by dissolving.

Here's how mashing works:
https://web.archive.org/web/20220904130332/http://howtobrew.com/book/section-3

5) Re-hydrate yeast per package instructions. Pitch yeast into wort.

Modern day dry yeast does not need to be re-hydrated or aerated/oxygenated. Just sprinkle dry over the wort surface.

 

[gwind]

If your gravity reading was really 1.025 the beer probably wasn't done and you've got a high potential for bottle bombs.

Did you use a refractometer to measure? If so you'll need to apply a correction factor to get the real gravity reading: Refractometer Calculator - Brewer's Friend

If you used a hydrometer it's probably not done fermenting and I fear you may end up with bottle bombs.

Thank you for sharing, I used a refractometer and my OG reading was 1.048 and FG reading 1.025 both with the hydrometer. I'm confused as how to use the calculator you provided since I don't have the FG (Brix WRI). What would my FG - Corrected / ABV value be?

Looking at the link below of a product description of the yeast I used, "full attenuation typically achieved within 2-3 days." It sat for 5 and the airlock had stopped bubbling at 3 days. I gently shaked the fermenter at day 3 and 4 and no additional bubbles came into the airlock after looking back later.
https://www.northernbrewer.com/products/lalbrew-voss-kveik-ale-dry-yeast

 

[gwind]

A few more pointers:

Base malts such as Pils Malt need to be mashed, not steeped.

Although mashing is similar to steeping, (soaking in hot water) a mash needs a longer time at a more precisely controlled temperature. It also needs to be mixed very thoroughly with the water to completely hydrate all grist particles. During mashing, the starches in the malt are being converted to sugars by enzymes, needing a controlled temp between 148F and 158F for about an hour. The hotter the mash, the less fermentable the resulting wort.

During steeping, sugars and other flavor contributing compounds in the malt/grain are simply extracted by dissolving.

Here's how mashing works:
https://web.archive.org/web/20220904130332/http://howtobrew.com/book/section-3

Modern day dry yeast does not need to be re-hydrated or aerated/oxygenated. Just sprinkle dry over the wort surface.

Thank you for the advice! I did use 3.3 lbs of DME hence why I assumed I would steep vs. mash. I was not trying to do all grain brewing yet, but maybe next time

Instructions from the yeast I used said to re-hydrate in water.
https://www.northernbrewer.com/products/lalbrew-voss-kveik-ale-dry-yeast

 

[IslandLizard]

Thank you for the advice! I did use 3.3 lbs of DME hence why I assumed I would steep vs. mash. I was not trying to do all grain brewing yet, but maybe next time

YVW!
Where did the idea come from to "steep" a pound of base malt? Was it in the recipe?

The problem is you won't extract much if any fermentable sugars from steeping the pound of Pilsner malt at 160F. Unlike steeping grains/malts, which are all converted, base malts are all starch. Those needs to be converted to sugars by the enzymes it contains in a proper mash (controlled temps, time, pH, water:grist ratio, and such).

I did use 3.3 lbs of DME

I only see LME (Liquid Malt Extract) mentioned in your OP.

1) Wort - add 1 lb belgian pils malt into 2.5 of water at 150 F - 160 F. Steep for 20 min. Remove malt bag.

If you actually steeped at lower temps, in that narrow range between 150-160F there could very well have been conversion, especially since the milled grist was contained inside a mesh bag. Without the bag the 2.5 gallons of water would normally make the "mash" much too thin for efficient enzymatic conversion. 20 minutes may still be a bit short, depending on how well the grist got hydrated inside the bag.

Read up on mini-mash also called partial mash. They're often done by extract brewers to help convert non-diastatic adjuncts, such as flaked goods (flaked/rolled oats, wheat, barley, rye, etc.).

Normally, to make up for any gravity shortage of fermentables in a recipe, due to using only whole 3.3 pound canisters of LME, extract brewers keep some DME on hand. Or add some sugar.

 

[gwind]

YVW!
Where did the idea come from to "steep" a pound of base malt? Was it in the recipe?

The problem is you won't extract much if any fermentable sugars from steeping the pound of Pilsner malt at 160F. Unlike steeping grains/malts, which are all converted, base malts are all starch. Those needs to be converted to sugars by the enzymes it contains in a proper mash (controlled temps, time, pH, water:grist ratio, and such).

I based my recipe mainly off of a Brewer's Best kit recipe and a few others online which used LME and grains.
https://brewersbestkits.com/assets/1015_kolsch_recipe.pdf

I only see LME (Liquid Malt Extract) mentioned in your OP.

Apologies, meant LME*.

If you actually steeped at lower temps, in that narrow range between 150-160F there could very well have been conversion, especially since the milled grist was contained inside a mesh bag. Without the bag the 2.5 gallons of water would normally make the "mash" much too thin for efficient enzymatic conversion. 20 minutes may still be a bit short, depending on how well the grist got hydrated inside the bag.

Read up on mini-mash also called partial mash. They're often done by extract brewers to help convert non-diastatic adjuncts, such as flaked goods (flaked/rolled oats, wheat, barley, rye, etc.).

Thanks, I'll read up on it! I have an extra 3.3 lb container of Pils Light LME so I will most likely do a mini/partial mash next batch.

Normally, to make up for any gravity shortage of fermentables in a recipe, due to using only whole 3.3 pound canisters of LME, extract brewers keep some DME on hand. Or add some sugar.

I added roughly 1/2 cup of table sugar mixed into with 1 cup water prior to bottling in order to carbonate the beer. I used this calculator:
https://homebrewacademy.com/priming-sugar-calculator/

 

[IslandLizard]

I added roughly 1/2 cup of table sugar mixed into with 1 cup water prior to bottling in order to carbonate the beer. I used this calculator:

Yes, that's to carbonate ("priming") it, and will add a tiny amount of ABV.

I was referring to adding larger amounts of sugar (or DME or any other fermentables) to the wort pre-fermentation, to boost gravity and/or fermentability, while not adding extra body, or even reducing it.

 

[wepeeler]

That poor Kolsch

Some good suggestions in here. First off, and not to rain on your parade, but the single most important ingredient is the yeast (they all make a difference, but...). A Kolsch will not taste like a Kolsch without Kolsch yeast. Kviek yeast will make beer, but I'm not a fan of it at all, and it won't resemble a Kolsch. For the future - Lallemand makes a dry Kolsch yeast (Koln) and so does Fermentis (K97). Both will make a decent Kolsch if you ferment them in the low 60s. The best Kolsch yeast I've used to date, and I've tried every one I can get my hands on, is Omega Kolsch II. Ferments warmer (66-69F) and floccs very well.

As for steeping the Pils malt, 20 min from 150-160 probably did more than you think for creating fermentables, but I agree, you should mash for longer ie 60-75 min for Pilsner malt.

 

[gwind]

Thanks all for your replies! If I used a refractometer (not a hydrometer) and got an OG reading of 1.048 and a FG reading of 1.025, how can I calculate my "actual" FG and ABV? I used this link:
https://www.brewersfriend.com/brix-converter/to convert my FG reading on a refractometer into Brix 1.025 -> 6.3. Then used this link:
https://www.brewersfriend.com/refractometer-calculator/to calculate AVB using OG of 1.048 and FG (Brix) 6.3 to get an ABV of 4.89%. Is what I did accurate? I don't know if I am inappropriately converting units.

 

[tdf]

Yes, what you did is correct and it looks like your beer is likely finished with fermentation.
The wort correction factor is actually something you need to calculate, but the calculation as-is is probably pretty close.

https://www.brewersfriend.com/how-to-determine-your-refractometers-wort-correction-factor/

 

[Franktalk]

I agree with others, the recommendation of Kveik is a mystery to me. Perhaps they were out of a dry Kolsch yeast.

Lallemand has discontinued their kolsch dry yeast.

 

[Zippy123]

Lallemand has discontinued their kolsch dry yeast.

That would be bad news. I just pitched a pack for an Altbeir (bought in mid-December). I just went to my supplier's website and now it shows "out of stock". I might need to set aside my frugality and buy a pack of Wyeast 2565 for my early Spring batch of Kolsch.

 

[wepeeler]

Lallemand has discontinued their kolsch dry yeast.

Yup

https://www.lallemandbrewing.com/en/united-states/products/lalbrew-koln-kolsch-style-ale-yeast/

 

[tdf]

There's still fermentis K97 for a dry kolsch yeast.

 

[GoodTruble]

Just a few quick things:

1. Don't rely on the bubbles in the airlock to tell you if it's done. Rule of thumb, three days with unchanged gravity reading (and be patient and err on the side of more time than less).

2. I second Omega Kolsch II. The best Kolsch yeast I have found by far. But I will miss Lalbrew Koln as a good option. I may try to still find one to keep on hand.

 

[superiorsat]

The best Kolsch yeast I've used to date, and I've tried every one I can get my hands on, is Omega Kolsch II.

I must have had a bad batch of Omega Kolsch II. I brewed a 12 gallon batch and split in 2 one with raspberry one with out and both had a strange bitterness to the point they were not very enjoyable ( I could drink them but the wife would not). Since I kegged on a brew day I harvested the yeast and used it on another double batch not knowing about the bitterness issue. The next split batches had the exact same issue.

 

[wepeeler]

I must have had a bad batch of Omega Kolsch II. I brewed a 12 gallon batch and split in 2 one with raspberry one with out and both had a strange bitterness to the point they were not very enjoyable ( I could drink them but the wife would not). Since I kegged on a brew day I harvested the yeast and used it on another double batch not knowing about the bitterness issue. The next split batches had the exact same issue.

Wow, I've always had fantastic results with it. I've used it for an Altbier as well.

What hops did you use? Maybe they were higher AA than you thought? I've gone up to 45 ibu with that yeast and gotten nothing but soft bitterness and creamy foam.

 

[GoodTruble]

I must have had a bad batch of Omega Kolsch II. I brewed a 12 gallon batch and split in 2 one with raspberry one with out and both had a strange bitterness to the point they were not very enjoyable ( I could drink them but the wife would not). Since I kegged on a brew day I harvested the yeast and used it on another double batch not knowing about the bitterness issue. The next split batches had the exact same issue.

Weird. Are you sure it was 2 (II) and not 1 (I)?

 

[superiorsat]

Positive it was ll. Ibu on first set of split batches was 23.4 used Tettnang, second set of split batch as 13 ibu of Cluster on a pair of sours. One black berry and the other strawberry peanutbutter. You knew it was the yeast and was hoping it would fade all the way away but it remained bitter to the end. Only faded some the first week or so.