Inkbird IPB-16 PID Controller Inquiry

[Seanbikes]

Any updates?

I haven't had a chance to follow up with them yet but I'm sure they would tell you what's up if you called.

 

[Alt]

I'd also be interested in one of these. I would also probably like to change out the probe port for something like a mini-xlr so that I could use a PT-100.

Not sure I understand this comment, as the IPB-16 already uses a Pt-100 sensor. I find the covering on the OEM sensor adversely affects its response time, so I understand the desire to use a different model/installation with a faster response time. You could solder on a stereo plug and use the OEM jack or replace it with an XLR one. Either way you would need to determine and set a sensor configuration value other than zero. I had to do that with th OEM sensor anyhow. Perhaps Bobby or someone else who has already opened one up can confirm the wiring setup for the OEM stereo jack?

 

[ModlrMike]

Yeah, I guess I wasn't really clear. What I meant was that I could use a different three wire PT 100.

What I'd really like is to see what the guts look like before I make the purchase. I'm sure that we can hack this thing into something great.

 

[Vandulus]

Not sure I understand this comment, as the IPB-16 already uses a Pt-100 sensor. I find the covering on the OEM sensor adversely affects its response time, so I understand the desire to use a different model/installation with a faster response time. You could solder on a stereo plug and use the OEM jack or replace it with an XLR one. Either way you would need to determine and set a sensor configuration value other than zero. I had to do that with th OEM sensor anyhow. Perhaps Bobby or someone else who has already opened one up can confirm the wiring setup for the OEM stereo jack?

If Bobby or someone else were to create one, I'd buy it in a heartbeat! I'm curious if anyone has played with changing the sensor type? In the manual, if you Select IP then Sn (Input Type) you can select between K, S, Wre, T, E, J, B, N, Cu50 and Pt100. Section 5.2 has additional detail about the probe parameters.

 

[Alt]

Well, I couldn't resist myself. I removed the base from my IPB-16 and had a look inside. Fortunately Inkbird labeled the connection point on the controller board, as well as the daughter board with the solder points for the stereo connector. Using a multi-meter I mapped the pinout for the plug.

TC-/A = base ring
TC+/B = tip ring
b = middle ring

Here's what that means:

Pt100 (3-wire)
Solder the A-wire (uniquely colored lead) to the base ring.
Solder the B-wire (one of the other color leads) to the tip ring and the b-wire (other lead of the same color) to the middle ring.

Pt100 (2-wire)
Solder the A-lead to the base ring.
Solder the B-lead to the tip and middle rings.

Thermistors
Solder the negative lead (-) to the base ring.
Solder the positive lead (+) to the tip ring.
​

I ordered an inexpensive 3-wire Pt100 off eBay and can test the functionality of this sometime next week after it arrives.

 

[augiedoggy]

Yep, forgot about that one. These things are so simple, I don't understand how they can market them for anywhere over $150.

I'm operating my RIMS tube off a cheap-o ITC-308 and wireless IR remote switch on my pump plug. Does the job, but with this hobby, the upgrades are always on-going.

yes that Brau one priced out to be about $80-90 -in retail priced hardware... huge markup due to supply and demand... if a popular lower cost solution was released that worked well a lot of these other products would wither dry up ad go away or drop in price as they can make more money right now with less manufacturing, they currently have no reason to drop the prices as the markets easy pickings..

 

[augiedoggy]

The ratings plate on my Chugger says it draws 1.4A, but doesn't say anything about startup current.

Brew on

I suspect because its so quick and momentary it doesnt effect ratings negatively...

 

[Bobby_M]

Not sure I understand this comment, as the IPB-16 already uses a Pt-100 sensor. I find the covering on the OEM sensor adversely affects its response time, so I understand the desire to use a different model/installation with a faster response time. You could solder on a stereo plug and use the OEM jack or replace it with an XLR one. Either way you would need to determine and set a sensor configuration value other than zero. I had to do that with th OEM sensor anyhow. Perhaps Bobby or someone else who has already opened one up can confirm the wiring setup for the OEM stereo jack?

I've successfully ground down the molded jacket on the probe to be able to fit inside a 5mm ID thermowell and the thinner rubber coating makes it respond nicely.

 

[jonestrada]

I've successfully ground down the molded jacket on the probe to be able to fit inside a 5mm ID thermowell and the thinner rubber coating makes it respond nicely.

I just ordered one from Bobby with the switch option and I can't wait for it to come in.

 

[BlurryEyed]

Amazon sale today - $67.49 (click "redeem" on 10% off offer)

http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2017/09/pre-wired-pid-temperature-controller-74-99-save-25.html

 

[Seanbikes]

Amazon sale today - $67.49 (click "redeem" on 10% off offer)

http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2017/09/pre-wired-pid-temperature-controller-74-99-save-25.html

Very tempting but I went ahead and ordered it from brewhardware.com so I can have the switched outlet.

I just need a couple cam lock fittings and I'll be able to get this all setup.

 

[jonestrada]

Mine finally came in on Saturday. I can't wait to use it in my Kettle RIMS system!

 

[Seanbikes]

I ordered mine Friday. The wait is killing me.

 

[jonestrada]

All done and ready to brew on Sunday.

 

[juandela]

anyone know of a basic tutorial on the IPB 16? I'm ready to brew but feeling overwhelmed with the PID.

there strangely seems to be NOTHING on youtube.

 

[Vandulus]

anyone know of a basic tutorial on the IPB 16? I'm ready to brew but feeling overwhelmed with the PID.

there strangely seems to be NOTHING on youtube.

I haven't had time to try mine out yet, but I was planning on doing a "dry" run using just water to get the controls down before brewing an actual batch.

 

[Seanbikes]

I fired mine up today just with water to test for leaks and figure out the controller.

I had to run a auto tune cycle on it to get the controller to bring it up to the set temp. Before the tuning cycle it was only getting within 5 degrees of the set temp and then holding 5 degrees low.

After the tuning cycle it was keeping the temp within .3 degrees Fahrenheit.

The instruction manual isn't very easy to follow but it seems there really isn't much to do other than set the temp and run the auto tune if needed.

 

[juandela]

yeah, the manual is bad news. I built a fermentation temp controller using the ITC1000 and it was great how much there was on youtube. seems crazy that there is nothing for this unit.

 

[Bobby_M]

It's not that crazy. They just came out a couple months ago.

 

[Genuine]

Mine finally came in on Saturday. I can't wait to use it in my Kettle RIMS system!

I have a very similar set up and wonder if This will suffice. What wattage element are you using?

 

[jonestrada]

I have a very similar set up and wonder if This will suffice. What wattage element are you using?

I'm using the 1650W TC Integrated Element from Bobby at BrewHardware with zero complaints.

I also use their SpinCycle to whirlpool which helps keep the heat pretty even.

 

[smbdyshero]

I've been thinking about using this for small batches no more than 3 gallons with the 1650w element. I know it will take a little more time to heat up to mash temp then to boil, but I'm thinking it will get to temp eventually. At least then I can brew small batches indoors this winter. Any suggestions?

 

[vinylicious]

I picked one of these controllers up to play around with. When it arrived, i took an extra Auber PT-100 sensor and rewired the panel end using a 3.5mm screw terminal adapter converter.



Red wires from the PT-100 were attached to the L + R terminals (left and middle terminals) on the adapter, white wire was attached to the base ring terminal (right terminal). Tested the connection, and the Inkbird recognized the new PT-100 sensor without having to change any settings.



I plan to replace the adapter eventually and solder a proper 3.5mm plug.
View attachment IMG_3956.jpg

 

[vinylicious]

I would like to install a switch to control a pump via the alarm receptacle. My thought is to tap the live wire after the fuse, before it connects to the circuit board. This would bypass the mechanical relay and give me full control of the alarm receptacle.

Does anyone have a better suggestion to bypass the internal alarm programming?

 

[highland_brewer]

anyone know of a basic tutorial on the IPB 16? I'm ready to brew but feeling overwhelmed with the PID.

there strangely seems to be NOTHING on youtube.

There is now!!


Inkbird IPB-16 review

 

[vinylicious]

I just finished up installing an “aux switch” in place of the alarm output.
View attachment IMG_4057.jpg
I started by unplugging the following pins from the control board:
Hot + (black wire) removed from TP7 on the board, this gets attached to PIN 2 on a SPST switch.
Neutral - (white wire) removed from TP1 on the board, this gets attached to PIN 3 on a SPST switch.
View attachment IMG_4056.jpg
From there, you just need to cut a 20mm hole(.787”) and hookup the switch. View attachment IMG_4053.jpg

 

[DatBeerPhu]

Thanks for the helpful info. Do those inline connectors affect the current draw on the switched output? I was thinking of tapping in and soldering the connections.

Where did you find the switch and connectors?

 

[augiedoggy]

I find it kind of strange that it uses the mager brand ssr vs the inkbird branded ones? Or was that ssr upgraded? I suppose one could easily update it and the outlet wiring to support more amps.

Either way I applaud inkbird for coming out with this device. Its about time someone released reasonably priced prebuilt solution... If they could come out with something rated at even 20a at 240v for under $200 a homebrewer could use that to power a 4500w element and he would be in good shape. vs having to pay twice that of more for a prebuilt solution elsewhere.

 

[doug293cz]

I find it kind of strange that it uses the mager brand ssr vs the inkbird branded ones? Or was that ssr upgraded? I suppose one could easily update it and the outlet wiring to support more amps.

Either way I applaud inkbird for coming out with this device. Its about time someone released reasonably priced prebuilt solution... If they could come out with something rated at even 20a at 240v for under $200 a homebrewer could use that to power a 4500w element and he would be in good shape. vs having to pay twice that of more for a prebuilt solution elsewhere.

Also surprised it's a 40A SSR. If you want to push more amps, you also need to add heat sinking for the SSR, in addition to using fatter wire.

Brew on

 

[BlurryEyed]

I just finished up installing an “aux switch” in place of the alarm output.
View attachment 418966
I started by unplugging the following pins from the control board:
Hot + (black wire) removed from TP7 on the board, this gets attached to PIN 2 on a SPST switch.
Neutral - (white wire) removed from TP1 on the board, this gets attached to PIN 3 on a SPST switch.
View attachment 418967
From there, you just need to cut a 20mm hole(.787”) and hookup the switch. View attachment 418968

This is AWESOME! Very easy and glad you posted pics. Thanks and cheers!