Inkbird IPB-16 PID Controller Inquiry

[AutoDog]

I have noticed mine also shows these minor display fluctuations, more apparently so when I'm holding my sparge/mash temps prior to mashing in. Generally I set it around 165 to account for heat loss for mash, then 170 for sparge. I'll often observe the 2 degree rapid fluctuations while it is "holding" that temperature.

There is an option on the IPB-16 to smooth the probe response, but ramping this all the way up (or carefully adjusting it one or two points at a time) DOES not seem to affect the actual display readout variations. It does seem to affect the actual SSR Switching, so I've just learned to ignore the display fluctuations as they seem to be more of an artifact of the design.

Full disclosure, this happens with my unmodified probe as well as my NPT probe which I have mounted in the HLT. So it's not the probe that's causing the problem.

I also see the display fluctuations - however only when the unit is in Fahrenheit mode. I don't see these fluctuations when it is set for Celsius. Perhaps that means it's just a display artifact?

Odd and annoying, but we should all be metric by now anyhow.

-AD

 

[tjz827]

For anyone interested, I have done some experimenting with a new probe option as the stock probe has a lot of fluctuation during my mash. I am running an E-BIAB setup with recirculation through the lid. I went to Auber Instruments and got myself a PT100 probe with XLR connection. https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=249

I am future proofing my setup for when I end up going 220, I can use this on a new controller. I didn't want to void my warranty on the IPB-16 so I went with a XLR to 3.5mm jack adapter cord in the interim. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HF6PY9V/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

You could technically solder the XLR connector into the controller if you were savvy. I noticed there is an exact 6 degree difference, so I did have to go into the sensor settings and adjust to +6 degrees. So far, it is very responsive and a nice upgrade over the stock probe. Just wanted to throw this info out there for whomever was looking at doing the same.

 

[sicktght311]

I did the same, but went the cheap route

Crocsee RTD PT100 1/2" NPT ebay probe, and 3 terminal screw style 1/8" Jack adapter. Works great.

Word of caution. If you see any fluctuations in your temps where it bounces around a few degrees at a time, make sure your braided sleeve isnt touching anything thats grounded by the system. I was having that problem at first, and then just made sure it wasnt touching anything and its been rock solid ever since. I measured a 3 degree difference that i adjusted on the Inkbird

 

[tjz827]

Word of caution. If you see any fluctuations in your temps where it bounces around a few degrees at a time, make sure your braided sleeve isnt touching anything thats grounded by the system. I was having that problem at first, and then just made sure it wasnt touching anything and its been rock solid ever since. I measured a 3 degree difference that i adjusted on the Inkbird

Now you've got me wondering about this. Haha. I have my setup on a stainless prep table. If the cord of the probe is resting on the table is that considered grounded? My controlled is actually mounted to the wall in front of it. See below.

 

[sicktght311]

The standard probe that comes with the Inkbird shouldnt cause any wild fluctuation issues unless you have it sitting right next to a heavy power source or something. Its the aftermarket metal braided cable sensors that can give weird readings if they touch anything that is part of the ground for the brewing system.

 

[ten80]

Anyone here have suggestions for reducing the time intervals during element firing in Auto mode? During some tests with water, I have found that the element fires very for short burst about every 30 seconds and that is insufficient to hold water at 190F; the temperature hovers around 185F and each burst of the element seems insufficient to counteract heat loss from my steel kettle. I even ran an auto tune and the issue persists.

I'm not quite sure what variables to play with in the settings, but it does seem like the PID is integrating over too long of a period and not firing the element often enough. Would this be addressed by reducing the integral time "I" from the default value of 30? Suggestions would be appreciated!

Also, I found a PDF of the manual which may be useful. It was surprisingly difficult to track down!

 

[doug293cz]

You want to set the "Ctl" parameter to 1 second. This sets the period for the PWM. You want this at the minimum in order to minimize pulsing of the heating element.

Brew on

 

[Cobby]

Hi guys how do you calibrate the probe?,my is 2 Celsius off.
Thank you for your help.

 

[jonestrada]

I think my Inkbird IPB-16 has seen it's last day. The display doesn't show anything and the pump switch comes on but eventually dies. Anything to look for?

 

[ten80]

I think my Inkbird IPB-16 has seen it's last day. The display doesn't show anything and the pump switch comes on but eventually dies. Anything to look for?

did you check the fuse?

 

[tjz827]

Hi guys how do you calibrate the probe?,my is 2 Celsius off.
Thank you for your help.

 

[jonestrada]

did you check the fuse?

Yeah, the fuse was still good. Put it in my other IPB-16 and it worked.

 

[Spikybits]

has anyone upgraded this controller to do 20a 2250 element? will the extra heat kill this controller?

 

[augiedoggy]

I think my Inkbird IPB-16 has seen it's last day. The display doesn't show anything and the pump switch comes on but eventually dies. Anything to look for?

sounds to me like a faulty powersupply or short in the power connections coming in. most pids have an ac to low voltage dc powersupply inside them that the pid actually runs off of. (this is why the pids often will run off ac voltage range from 80 to 250v)

 

[Bobby_M]

has anyone upgraded this controller to do 20a 2250 element? will the extra heat kill this controller?

The SSR is only cooled by a non-finned piece of 3/16" thick aluminum. There's no reason it can't handle 2250watts if you upgraded the heat sink and incoming supply. The cable is only rated for 15 amps, as is the main power switch. Will it fry? Who knows.

 

[Spikybits]

The SSR is only cooled by a non-finned piece of 3/16" thick aluminum. There's no reason it can't handle 2250watts if you upgraded the heat sink and incoming supply. The cable is only rated for 15 amps, as is the main power switch. Will it fry? Who knows.

your wisdom was greatly appreciated

 

[ten80]

You want to set the "Ctl" parameter to 1 second. This sets the period for the PWM. You want this at the minimum in order to minimize pulsing of the heating element.

Thanks, this was helpful as my Ctl parameter was set to 120! I still am not achieving the desired result and am getting cycling on/off by the controller, resulting in "boil pulsing".

I'm trying to set the element power to just barely boil the wort enough to generate steam, and my temperature probe is installed in the kettle lid to which my steam condenser is mounted. I'm trying hold the steam temperature at around 212F but the controller on AUTO swings +/- 2-3F so the steam is intermittent, and that's after completing an auto-tune.

I've not had luck with manual mode either, 20-30% power setting cycles the element on and off enough that steam is intermittent.

Am I missing something, or is this PID just not going to work because it cycles the element in relatively "large" time increments of seconds to achieve desired set temperatures or manual power output? My Auber 2352 PID (with SSR output) for my 5500w brew kettle doesn't noticeably cycle the element in manual mode . I think the Auber cycles the element in imperceptibly small cycles, so it is essentially delivering consistent power at 20% or any given value.

 

[doug293cz]

Thanks, this was helpful as my Ctl parameter was set to 120! I still am not achieving the desired result and am getting cycling on/off by the controller, resulting in "boil pulsing".

I'm trying to set the element power to just barely boil the wort enough to generate steam, and my temperature probe is installed in the kettle lid to which my steam condenser is mounted. I'm trying hold the steam temperature at around 212F but the controller on AUTO swings +/- 2-3F so the steam is intermittent, and that's after completing an auto-tune.

I've not had luck with manual mode either, 20-30% power setting cycles the element on and off enough that steam is intermittent.

Am I missing something, or is this PID just not going to work because it cycles the element in relatively "large" time increments of seconds to achieve desired set temperatures or manual power output? My Auber 2352 PID (with SSR output) for my 5500w brew kettle doesn't noticeably cycle the element in manual mode . I think the Auber cycles the element in imperceptibly small cycles, so it is essentially delivering consistent power at 20% or any given value.

IIRC, the minimum cycle time on the 2352 is 2 sec, and if you don't see pulsing with that, then you definitely shouldn't have pulsing at a 1 sec cycle time. Must be something else going on.

The shortest cycle time controller is an Auber EZBoil, it modulates power using a different method than the fixed cycle time PWM used by most other PID's.

Brew on

 

[ten80]

... Must be something else going on.

The shortest cycle time controller is an Auber EZBoil, it modulates power using a different method than the fixed cycle time PWM used by most other PID's.

Thanks, I'll look into the Inkbird PID settings some more. I have an EZBoil on hand in case I can't get the Inkbird dialed in to my liking.

 

[augiedoggy]

IIRC, the minimum cycle time on the 2352 is 2 sec, and if you don't see pulsing with that, then you definitely shouldn't have pulsing at a 1 sec cycle time. Must be something else going on.

The shortest cycle time controller is an Auber EZBoil, it modulates power using a different method than the fixed cycle time PWM used by most other PID's.

Brew on

If I understand what hes saying correctly, he is not using manual duty cycle mode but rather pid mode which will produce and on/off boil pulsing effect. he needs to be using manual mode to get an even consistent lower power output.

 

[augiedoggy]

Thanks, I'll look into the Inkbird PID settings some more. I have an EZBoil on hand in case I can't get the Inkbird dialed in to my liking.

you need to use the manual mode if you dont want the boil to be alternating /pulsing on and off. pid mode will get you too a certian temp but it will not produce an even consistent boil unless you have the temp set to over 212 and want a 100% full on power. you also want the lowest cycle time set... I use 1 second on my "mypin" pids..

 

[augiedoggy]

I did the same, but went the cheap route

Crocsee RTD PT100 1/2" NPT ebay probe, and 3 terminal screw style 1/8" Jack adapter. Works great.

Word of caution. If you see any fluctuations in your temps where it bounces around a few degrees at a time, make sure your braided sleeve isnt touching anything thats grounded by the system. I was having that problem at first, and then just made sure it wasnt touching anything and its been rock solid ever since. I measured a 3 degree difference that i adjusted on the Inkbird

I also had this issue on my brucontrol system... if the sleeve is grounded at the kettle end it can produce a "ground loop" which makes the readout jump around when ever the element is firing...

 

[magee_b]

Looks like Inkbird has updated the unit to a IPD-16S. Now includes a heat on/off and a pump on/off switch

Did I miss the news on this or is this a brand new update?

https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-IPB-...4151402d42f302740ed6ba31fde42f&language=en_US

 

[sicktght311]

Looks like they took the Clawhammer Supply redesign and ran with it

https://www.clawhammersupply.com/co...istillation-equipment-electric-controller-kit

 

[augiedoggy]

Cool... Now if they would only release a 240v version capable of handling 25a... or even 20a for a 18a 4500w element... Thats the number one thing everyone is looking for when it comes to making the jump to electric.

 

[k-os]

Looks like they took the Clawhammer Supply redesign and ran with it

https://www.clawhammersupply.com/co...istillation-equipment-electric-controller-kit

I thought the same thing when I saw it.

 

[rawl28]

I bought this new version and while the instructions show that you can change the probe type in the input settings, the option is not there. I don't know if this is different than the original version but I did buy the Pt100 sensor with thermocouple that was posted earlier and it would not work with this controller. This was a disappointment for me.

 

[Alt]

Are you saying that on the new 16S, you can't do this:

Press and hold SET for 3 seconds > IP
Press AT/RUN > Sn = Pt
Press DOWN or UP to cycle through 10 different sensor types
Press SET to save?

I can on the original. FYI, the Inkbird sensor for the IPD-16 is a Pt100. 99.99% certain the S model uses the same sensor.

 

[rawl28]

Are you saying that on the new 16S, you can't do this:

Press and hold SET for 3 seconds > IP
Press AT/RUN > Sn = Pt
Press DOWN or UP to cycle through 10 different sensor types
Press SET to save?

I can on the original. FYI, the Inkbird sensor for the IPD-16 is a Pt100. 99.99% certain the S model uses the same sensor.

Correct. The two other options are still under the IP heading but no Sn. Also looking at the info on Amazon it seems like the 16s uses a NTC sensor.

 

[nick sekerak]

I am trying to tune my inkbird PB 16 that i just got, does anyone have any other good tips or suggestions for modifying the default setting that it comes preprogramed with it when it brand new. I just changed my "ctl" setting to 1 sec as suggested earlier in this thread. Any help would be sweet.

I was told these are good setting does anyone agree with the below???

ctl = 1
P = 30 (since 50 is the default wouldn't you want this to be higher like 80 i would think. This is the response speed and adjustment accuracy of the sys will be improved per the instructions.)
I = 1 (this seems way too low)
d = 300 (seem ok)

 

[SunDogBrewing]

I did the same, but went the cheap route

Crocsee RTD PT100 1/2" NPT ebay probe, and 3 terminal screw style 1/8" Jack adapter. Works great.

Word of caution. If you see any fluctuations in your temps where it bounces around a few degrees at a time, make sure your braided sleeve isnt touching anything thats grounded by the system. I was having that problem at first, and then just made sure it wasnt touching anything and its been rock solid ever since. I measured a 3 degree difference that i adjusted on the Inkbird

I’m trying to change the probe and having trouble figuring out wiring. Any advice how it’s pinned out?

 

[sicktght311]

I’m trying to change the probe and having trouble figuring out wiring. Any advice how it’s pinned out?

Its only really 1 wire that matters. The 3 wires are 1 signal wire, and then the 2 ground/neutral wires. The 2 ground wires dont matter what position they're in as they're interchangeable as they just measure overall resistance. As long as the signal wire is in the correct place, the other two can go in either of the other two slots. Just test the signal wire in each terminal with the other two wires in the other two positions until the inkbird recognizes, and then you're good to go

 

[augiedoggy]

^ as mentioned above it depends on if you have the 16 (uses PT100 sensor) or the newer 16s (uses NTC sensor)

 

[sicktght311]

Inkbird
"Lets listen to the requests of our users and finally add an on/off button for the element, and turn the useless alarm outlet into a pump outlet, on our popular IPB16"
Also Inkbird
"Change the temperature sensor from the widely used PT100 to NTC"

 

[ten80]

My IPB16 is flashing "ORAL" which is a probe out-of-range alarm. I checked and my probe is set to CU50 for an unknown reason. I cannot scroll through to change it back to "PT" for the stock PT100 probe, the display just flashes through all the probe types, then back to CU50. Anyone else have this issue? I have not yet tried resetting the controller.