Inkbird IPB-16 PID Controller Inquiry

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Mine finally came in on Saturday. I can't wait to use it in my Kettle RIMS system!

20170917_224610.jpg


20170917_224524.jpg
 
All done and ready to brew on Sunday.

 
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anyone know of a basic tutorial on the IPB 16? I'm ready to brew but feeling overwhelmed with the PID.

there strangely seems to be NOTHING on youtube.
 
juandela said:
anyone know of a basic tutorial on the IPB 16? I'm ready to brew but feeling overwhelmed with the PID.

there strangely seems to be NOTHING on youtube.
Click to expand...

I haven't had time to try mine out yet, but I was planning on doing a "dry" run using just water to get the controls down before brewing an actual batch.
 
I fired mine up today just with water to test for leaks and figure out the controller.

I had to run a auto tune cycle on it to get the controller to bring it up to the set temp. Before the tuning cycle it was only getting within 5 degrees of the set temp and then holding 5 degrees low.

After the tuning cycle it was keeping the temp within .3 degrees Fahrenheit.

The instruction manual isn't very easy to follow but it seems there really isn't much to do other than set the temp and run the auto tune if needed.
 
yeah, the manual is bad news. I built a fermentation temp controller using the ITC1000 and it was great how much there was on youtube. seems crazy that there is nothing for this unit.
 
jonestrada said:
Mine finally came in on Saturday. I can't wait to use it in my Kettle RIMS system!
Click to expand...



I have a very similar set up and wonder if This will suffice. What wattage element are you using?
 
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I've been thinking about using this for small batches no more than 3 gallons with the 1650w element. I know it will take a little more time to heat up to mash temp then to boil, but I'm thinking it will get to temp eventually. At least then I can brew small batches indoors this winter. Any suggestions?
 
I picked one of these controllers up to play around with. When it arrived, i took an extra Auber PT-100 sensor and rewired the panel end using a 3.5mm screw terminal adapter converter.



Red wires from the PT-100 were attached to the L + R terminals (left and middle terminals) on the adapter, white wire was attached to the base ring terminal (right terminal). Tested the connection, and the Inkbird recognized the new PT-100 sensor without having to change any settings.



I plan to replace the adapter eventually and solder a proper 3.5mm plug.
View attachment IMG_3956.jpg
 
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I would like to install a switch to control a pump via the alarm receptacle. My thought is to tap the live wire after the fuse, before it connects to the circuit board. This would bypass the mechanical relay and give me full control of the alarm receptacle.

Does anyone have a better suggestion to bypass the internal alarm programming?

Inkbird IPB-16 inside.jpg
 
I just finished up installing an “aux switch” in place of the alarm output.
View attachment IMG_4057.jpg
I started by unplugging the following pins from the control board:
Hot + (black wire) removed from TP7 on the board, this gets attached to PIN 2 on a SPST switch.
Neutral - (white wire) removed from TP1 on the board, this gets attached to PIN 3 on a SPST switch.
View attachment IMG_4056.jpg
From there, you just need to cut a 20mm hole(.787”) and hookup the switch. View attachment IMG_4053.jpg
 
Thanks for the helpful info. Do those inline connectors affect the current draw on the switched output? I was thinking of tapping in and soldering the connections.

Where did you find the switch and connectors?
 
I find it kind of strange that it uses the mager brand ssr vs the inkbird branded ones? Or was that ssr upgraded? I suppose one could easily update it and the outlet wiring to support more amps.

Either way I applaud inkbird for coming out with this device. Its about time someone released reasonably priced prebuilt solution... If they could come out with something rated at even 20a at 240v for under $200 a homebrewer could use that to power a 4500w element and he would be in good shape. vs having to pay twice that of more for a prebuilt solution elsewhere.
 
augiedoggy said:
I find it kind of strange that it uses the mager brand ssr vs the inkbird branded ones? Or was that ssr upgraded? I suppose one could easily update it and the outlet wiring to support more amps.

Either way I applaud inkbird for coming out with this device. Its about time someone released reasonably priced prebuilt solution... If they could come out with something rated at even 20a at 240v for under $200 a homebrewer could use that to power a 4500w element and he would be in good shape. vs having to pay twice that of more for a prebuilt solution elsewhere.
Click to expand...

Also surprised it's a 40A SSR. If you want to push more amps, you also need to add heat sinking for the SSR, in addition to using fatter wire.

Brew on :mug:
 
vinylicious said:
I just finished up installing an “aux switch” in place of the alarm output.
View attachment 418966
I started by unplugging the following pins from the control board:
Hot + (black wire) removed from TP7 on the board, this gets attached to PIN 2 on a SPST switch.
Neutral - (white wire) removed from TP1 on the board, this gets attached to PIN 3 on a SPST switch.
View attachment 418967
From there, you just need to cut a 20mm hole(.787”) and hookup the switch. View attachment 418968
Click to expand...

This is AWESOME! Very easy and glad you posted pics. Thanks and cheers!
 
DatBeerPhu said:
Thanks for the helpful info. Do those inline connectors affect the current draw on the switched output? I was thinking of tapping in and soldering the connections.

Where did you find the switch and connectors?
Click to expand...

The switch is a 3 Terminal SPST 2 Position Rocker Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071KTQ2F5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The wire splicers came from my tool box in the basement, no doubt left over from a brief car audio hobby back in the day. You could use any wire splice or wire nut with jumper that would work for you.

I'm yet to use this during a brewday, but I've been spot checking voltage/amp draw with a multimeter. There is no voltage drop on the Alarm/Aux output.

augiedoggy said:
I find it kind of strange that it uses the mager brand ssr vs the inkbird branded ones? Or was that ssr upgraded? I suppose one could easily update it and the outlet wiring to support more amps.

Either way I applaud inkbird for coming out with this device. Its about time someone released reasonably priced prebuilt solution... If they could come out with something rated at even 20a at 240v for under $200 a homebrewer could use that to power a 4500w element and he would be in good shape. vs having to pay twice that of more for a prebuilt solution elsewhere.
Click to expand...

It is a Mager brand SSR, I didn't upgrade any of the internal components. So far, with my limited testing, this seems like a solid unit. I scored it on Amazon during and Inkbirk promo and got an additional discount. I figured for $60, it couldn't hurt to play around with for use as a RIMS controller. I;v tired of babysitting the propane burner doing step mashes and its only going to get worse with the cold weather coming.

Now I just need to wait for RIMS tubes to come back in stock at Brew Hardware and I will be set to test everything out.

BlurryEyed said:
This is AWESOME! Very easy and glad you posted pics. Thanks and cheers!
Click to expand...

Let me know if you have any questions. It really was easy to add the switch.
 
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vinylicious said:
The switch is a 3 Terminal SPST 2 Position Rocker Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071KTQ2F5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The wire splicers came from my tool box in the basement, no doubt left over from a brief car audio hobby back in the day. You could use any wire splice or wire nut with jumper that would work for you.

I'm yet to use this during a brewday, but I've been spot checking voltage/amp draw with a multimeter. There is no voltage drop on the Alarm/Aux output.



It is a Mager brand SSR, I didn't upgrade any of the internal components. So far, with my limited testing, this seems like a solid unit. I scored it on Amazon during and Inkbirk promo and got an additional discount. I figured for $60, it couldn't hurt to play around with for use as a RIMS controller. I;v tired of babysitting the propane burner doing step mashes and its only going to get worse with the cold weather coming.

Now I just need to wait for RIMS tubes to come back in stock at Brew Hardware and I will be set to test everything out.



Let me know if you have any questions. It really was easy to add the switch.
Click to expand...

With about $30 in wiring and outlet upgrades this can easily control a full 5500w HLT or BK... definitely a good value.
 
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augiedoggy said:
With about $30 in wiring and outlet upgrades this can easily control a full 5500w HLT or BK... definitely a good value.
Click to expand...



I just bought one of these and am interested in increasing the wattage this can handle (not even to 5500, I have a 2250w element i’d prefer to use on a 20amp circuit).

I assume it is the plug from the wall, the wiring from the plug to the SSR, and the wiring from the SSR to the element outlet that would need to be replaced.

Would the outlet in the box for the element also need to be replaced? Anything else?
 
Metzen said:
I just bought one of these and am interested in increasing the wattage this can handle (not even to 5500, I have a 2250w element i’d prefer to use on a 20amp circuit).

I assume it is the plug from the wall, the wiring from the plug to the SSR, and the wiring from the SSR to the element outlet that would need to be replaced.

Would the outlet in the box for the element also need to be replaced? Anything else?
Click to expand...

If I understand your question correctly, that you're wanting to run a 2250 watt element off of this unit. The first concern you should have is what size is the wiring in your home you're going to need at least 12 gauge wire running from the outlet to your circuit box to handle the 18 + amps that the unit will be drawing with that element. The plug on the unit is only rated at 15 amps as well I believe. So you would need to use a different plug for the box as well for the output.
 
It's not immediately obvious to me how much current the traces on the circuit board can handle. The power cord coming in hits the board first, then is jumped over through a short trace and goes back to wire to the SSR. If I were upgrading the entrance cord, I would put a ring terminal directly on the the hot, go to the SSR and then jump the original feed into the board to that to get power for the electronics. That way the higher current wire gets to the SSR directly and you're good. The panel mount 5-15R can probably handle the 19 amps but i don't know for sure.
 
Bobby_M said:
It's not immediately obvious to me how much current the traces on the circuit board can handle. The power cord coming in hits the board first, then is jumped over to the SSR through a short trace and goes back to wire to the SSR. If I were upgrading the entrance cord, I would put a ring terminal directly on the the hot, go to the SSR and then jump the original feed into the board to that to get power for the electronics. That way the higher current wire gets to the SSR directly and you're good. The panel mount 5-15R can probably handle the 19 amps but i don't know for sure.
Click to expand...



Cheers! Very helpful..
 
highland_brewer said:
If I understand your question correctly, that you're wanting to run a 2250 watt element off of this unit. The first concern you should have is what size is the wiring in your home you're going to need at least 12 gauge wire running from the outlet to your circuit box to handle the 18 + amps that the unit will be drawing with that element. The plug on the unit is only rated at 15 amps as well I believe. So you would need to use a different plug for the box as well for the output.
Click to expand...



I’d be running this off a circuit in my house rated and wired for 20amp. Yea, I figure I’d need to upgrade the input, internal wiring, and output. I haven’t received the unit yet, so I wasn’t sure what the internals look like. Bobby’s guidance will help (ordered it with the added switch from Bobby BTW).
 
Metzen said:
I’d be running this off a circuit in my house rated and wired for 20amp. Yea, I figure I’d need to upgrade the input, internal wiring, and output. I haven’t received the unit yet, so I wasn’t sure what the internals look like. Bobby’s guidance will help (ordered it with the added switch from Bobby BTW).
Click to expand...
Dude, go claim your Stout conical already!
 
question about the boil on this. I've got this controller and am putting together a small EBIAB system. I've never used an electric system but judging from using propane, the heat needs to be adjusted to prevent boil overs. How would you control the boil through the controller? Or would I need to add a bypass toggle and them some type of variable rotary switch to control the heat?
 
jasonclick said:
question about the boil on this. I've got this controller and am putting together a small EBIAB system. I've never used an electric system but judging from using propane, the heat needs to be adjusted to prevent boil overs. How would you control the boil through the controller? Or would I need to add a bypass toggle and them some type of variable rotary switch to control the heat?
Click to expand...

It has a pid. Look it up
 
Metzen said:
I just bought one of these and am interested in increasing the wattage this can handle (not even to 5500, I have a 2250w element i’d prefer to use on a 20amp circuit).

I assume it is the plug from the wall, the wiring from the plug to the SSR, and the wiring from the SSR to the element outlet that would need to be replaced.

Would the outlet in the box for the element also need to be replaced? Anything else?
Click to expand...

Why not just get a 2250 240v element that only draws like 9 amps? or are you limited to 120v here?
 
Bobby_M said:
It's not immediately obvious to me how much current the traces on the circuit board can handle. The power cord coming in hits the board first, then is jumped over through a short trace and goes back to wire to the SSR. If I were upgrading the entrance cord, I would put a ring terminal directly on the the hot, go to the SSR and then jump the original feed into the board to that to get power for the electronics. That way the higher current wire gets to the SSR directly and you're good. The panel mount 5-15R can probably handle the 19 amps but i don't know for sure.
Click to expand...

Why would the main power even got through the pid? Strange they would build it that way instead of just routing the element/relay power directly from the power cord through the SSR and to the outlet..

EDIT I see how they did it.. likely to say some $$ on build costs. but as you pointed out very easy to work around.. I bet if you modified some of these to handle 20-25a they would sell quick.
 
augiedoggy said:
Why would the main power even got through the pid? Strange they would build it that way instead of just routing the element/relay power directly from the power cord through the SSR and to the outlet..

EDIT I see how they did it.. likely to say some $$ on build costs. but as you pointed out very easy to work around.. I bet if you modified some of these to handle 20-25a they would sell quick.
Click to expand...

I think it was just out of convenience to terminate the incoming wire onto the board directly. I've swapped out the SSR for a dual channel in order to have the unit switch two different 15 amp circuits at the same time for a dual 1500w pot build. Since there is no heat sink, it does get pretty hot after an hour of boiling.
 
I just got one of these units.

Anyone know why my temp probe reading would oscillate with a 2 degree Fahrenheit difference (eg 89 degrees, then 91 degrees, and back to 89 degrees every second or so). I’ve used the temp probe that came with the unit and a second PT100 probe from Auber. Anything come to mind that I should look at? I’m wondering if it is the audio connector port? Wiring to the PID controller, etc? I’m not an electrical engineer, so anything would help.

Cheers
M
 
Both probes exhibiting the same issue?
Is the probe cable kinked at all? Any nearby electrical devices plugged in to the same socket/strip?
 

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