• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

How full (Weight) do you fill your Kegs?

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
That makes sense. I forgot about the guys doing 10 and 20 gallon batches with cylindroconicals, glycol, and lab grade stuff. 😀
Nothing that fancy; just using a half-barrel keg as a fermenter. I like doing the 10 gallon batches because it really doesn’t take much more effort, and there’s only one cleanup and twice the beer!
Also, I like to prime the kegs with sugar and carbonate naturally. Brewing more volume gets me ahead so the beer has more time to carbonate and condition before I need it. If I do get a little behind, I can force carb one keg, and prime the other with sugar. The second one will easily be ready by the time I finish the first.
Hoping to get a small kegerator and just slide the whole thing in and skip the transfer altogether. Could serve using a floating dip tube.
 
Yeah I don’t understand the whole filling kegs by weight thing.

Here's my motivation:

taplist_28aug2024.jpg


Cheers!
 
Last edited:
Do folks go over the amount this intentionally or accidentally?

Accidentally maybe. But, seems like on forums comments come across in certain ways, figure of speech, etc., that can convey a lot more negative connotation than perhaps actually intended. Or, I hope so anyway.
 
Last edited:
thanks for all the replies (and like almost anything brewing related there are many methods used). I do prefer not to spund (and lose all that aroma - at least IMO) - so I have Gas line back to fermenter and use gravity transfer vs. feeding CO2. Appreciate all the input - each reply has its own value! I always aim for a bit more than keg capacity as so much effort goes into the process I prefer a full keg vs. some waste (Okay - I do transfer to a few growlers what is left after weight target and get to sample before full carbonation).

I asked mostly because of course without taking the lid off I cant be sure how close to a full 5 gallons I really am - and not doing that after all the effort to be oxygen free! Never measured 5 gallons of water and then checked by scale and calculations - but that suggestion is pretty simple and effective (and on my To Do list now).

Thanks again to ALL - much appreciated.

Terry
 
thanks for all the replies (and like almost anything brewing related there are many methods used). I do prefer not to spund (and lose all that aroma - at least IMO) - so I have Gas line back to fermenter and use gravity transfer vs. feeding CO2. Appreciate all the input - each reply has its own value! I always aim for a bit more than keg capacity as so much effort goes into the process I prefer a full keg vs. some waste (Okay - I do transfer to a few growlers what is left after weight target and get to sample before full carbonation).

I do the closed loop gravity transfers as well. Since Ive been doing this, I’ve really noticed how the roasted barley flavor is preserved in my stouts.

To your question about any “leftovers”; I have a small 1.6 gallon torpedo keg that I use to put any extra in, unless it’s just a couple bottles or so. Then, I just purge it a little with my tank and force carb it. It gives me a little taste of what’s coming, even if it’s a little under conditioned. If it is too small amount to put in the tiny keg, I either bottle & prime it, or just swirl it up into the yeast for harvesting; just depends on how much is left.
Although that salvage beer will not be as good, it’s always better than store bought! 😁
 
Some complicated processes here. I just tare the scale with the keg and stop at about 18.5kg.
 
Many digital scales will time out and shut off before they're filled, and the tared keg weight goes away forever. That is why I calculate the target gross weight instead: if the scale shuts off I can lift the keg off, turn the scale back on, and once it's zeroed itself put the keg back on and keep going...

Cheers!
 
Reviews are not exactly exemplar https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.flameking.propanemonitor

Biggest complaint is battery life and that the cylinder has to be removed to access the power switch.
This is a representative example...

"Worthless. Don't waste your time or money. Successfully connected to my phone once. The two AA batteries go dead in a few days if the scale is left on. It is apparently meant to be powered on only when propane is being consumed requiring you to remove the scale from under the bottle and switch it off then switch it on and insert it under the bottle again the next time you are using gas. "
 
With this thread in mind, I was very careful about getting an accurate weight on a 5gal keg of bitter that I packaged today. The TG on the beer was 1.007 and the full up weight in my Slimline Torpedo keg was 51lbs on the dot including the floating dip tube, .25oz of keg hops, ascorbic acid, and 10ml of keg finings.
 
Last edited:
Haha so now that I am fermenting in unis I had no idea how much beer was in there other than a vague idea as I didn't write it down! And I did need to get real close to 5 gallons in each of 2 kegs (for an event). I brewed 11 or so gallons. But I was reading along so I weighed my kegs on the bathroom scale and went with 42 pounds for the beer. Seemed pretty close watching the condensation on the side and final rocking. It's the answer to the universe anyway!

And now I'm freaked out a little 'cause when I finished that thought and looked up I saw this:
17254147648042738130293306547074.jpg
 
Last edited:
I transfer into a closed keg, so I don't know how much is in the keg. I use SSBrewTech Buckets so I'll stop just before the beer gets down to the bottom of the racking arm or until beer comes out of the hose I have attached to gas post. If the latter I'll drain about 3/4 of a pint out so the beer level is below the bottom of the gas post.
Same process here. Ever have issues with gunk in the gas post? I noticed a number of gas leaks at the co2 post bung since I started doing this. I try hard to not get an overflow, but it happens. I’m about to take the offending posts apart and see what they look like.
 
GallonVolume V=(454/3785)*(LBWT/SG)

SG like 1.010
LBWT = Beer Weight = Total Weight of keg+beer on scale minus *known* keg weight = (TW - KW)

Yes, you have to measure empty keg before starting to fill. It's a data point. Don't tell me you don't measure that and write it down for all posterity. You know you do.

Solve for TW and fill on the always on when plugged in postal scale.

Having said all that, I fill till it overflows the gas in side.
(and yes, for a couple of my kegs, I always find out too late that I have a couple of kegs I *REALLY* mean to trim the damned gas in dip tubes back a bit)
 
I saw this video come out a few days ago. It would old work with kegging cold beer (I tend to only mess with cold crashing dry hopped ales, and the occasional lager that I brew), but basically involves sticking a temperature changing sheet to the fermenter. As the keg fills with cold beer, the sheet changes color. In the video, the color change is very distinct. The video has a link for a product on Amazon UK, but a search for "Cold Sensitive Color Changing Vinyl" should turn up products. I see a 1ft x 5ft roll listed on Amazon for $9 US.

 
What the sankey mfgs say is if you don’t measure the exact amount going into the keg, you can tilt it on a 30° and fill until beer comes out the gas port. Can do the same with a soda keg if you cut the gas dip tube. If not just fill it until it comes out the gas port. This way there is some headspace still. If you do the tilt, make sure the gas port is at the mid point of the tilt, not the highest or lowest spot.
 
If you do the tilt, make sure the gas port is at the mid point of the tilt, not the highest or lowest spot.
Why the mid point?

I tilt my kegs with a couple pieces of a paint stirrer stick and have the gas post at the lowest point when filling. I don't know the angle but guess it is less than 30 degrees.
 
Why the mid point?

I tilt my kegs with a couple pieces of a paint stirrer stick and have the gas post at the lowest point when filling. I don't know the angle but guess it is less than 30 degrees.
Well, if the gas coupler is at the top, then you’ll have almost no headspace, and if it’s at the bottom, you will have the most headspace. I guess if you have it at the low point, you could use a lesser angle.

I know it’s different than a Sankey keg, but with those the gas port is also in the middle
 
I calculated all our tank target gross weight and recorded it on its RFID tag. As a backup, the cross weight is recorded on the back of the tank number.
On fill day I scan the tag if the weight is not readable on the number tag. and watch the scale.
 

Attachments

  • 20190709_095632.jpg
    20190709_095632.jpg
    1.4 MB
  • 20250109_135329.jpg
    20250109_135329.jpg
    731.3 KB
  • 20250109_135205.jpg
    20250109_135205.jpg
    747.5 KB
fwiw, I rely on a spreadsheet that HBT member @kaljade created that accounts for FG and a few other metrics to predict fill volume mass. I have a copy on my Google Drive and the link can be found in my post #37 this thread:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/keg-volume-calculator.633022/

I'd drop the link here but it gets mucked up...

Cheers!

[ps] The version on my Google Drive is the same as that linked by Kal himself below :)
 
Last edited:
The final version of this spreadsheet (dated 8/1/2019), is located here:

Not sure if it's the same version as the one @day_trippr has on his drive, but no further development has/will likely be done to it.

Cheers,

Kal
 
I think I usually hope to see 41 lbs hit the scale after I tare it out prior to the transfer. Hasn’t been happening lately, but not like I can do much about it when it doesn’t.

Last transfer a couple weeks ago was 38.7, and I just stared at it for a little bit wondering why?? Why can’t I get a full keg? I opened up the torpedo, saw the floating dip tub in all the trub and got over it.

I have no method to measure how close a keg is to getting empty either other than opening up the kegerator and lifting it up and guessing. Which is a PITA when navigating all the various other lines and kegs I don’t care about at that moment.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top