Thanks for the suggestion.
I can tell when the foam fell off, because there is a big dip on the Inkbird graph.
I can tell when the foam fell off, because there is a big dip on the Inkbird graph.
I hold mine on with a few small bungee cords strung togetherWell, it turns out tape does not like sticking to Torpedo kegs. This afternoon, the foam fell off. I tried electrical tape. No good. I tried medical tape--the stuff you can never get off your skin once you put it on--no good. I could not find the duck tape or gorilla tape.
I asked myself what kind of adhesive sticks to things that are wet.
Now the probe is back in place, held there by two big gauze bandages. The self-adhesive bandages they make these days will stick to anything.
Why is the outside of your fermenter wet? I find that painter's tape (low adhesion by design) works fine when applied to a dry surface of a fermentation vessel.Well, it turns out tape does not like sticking to Torpedo kegs. This afternoon, the foam fell off. I tried electrical tape. No good. I tried medical tape--the stuff you can never get off your skin once you put it on--no good. I could not find the duck tape or gorilla tape.
I asked myself what kind of adhesive sticks to things that are wet.
Now the probe is back in place, held there by two big gauze bandages. The self-adhesive bandages they make these days will stick to anything.
How did you get condensation at typical fermentation temperatures? My water supply isn't usually cold enough to get the wort down to target pitching temp, so I put my fermenters in the chest freezer, tape the temp probe under a piece of foam, and set the controller to pitching temp. No chance for condensation before I apply the tape.I think it had condensation on it.
As luck would have it, there was a can of plumber's putty on top of the fermenting fridge. It's hard and crumbly, so if someone is getting plumber's putty to work, it must be a different kind.
I got bandages to work again. I have a lot of painter's tape, so maybe I can apply some over the bandages to hold foam on.
I'm going to get some bungee cords.
Well, it turns out tape does not like sticking to Torpedo kegs. This afternoon, the foam fell off. I tried electrical tape. No good. I tried medical tape--the stuff you can never get off your skin once you put it on--no good. I could not find the duck tape or gorilla tape.
I asked myself what kind of adhesive sticks to things that are wet.
Now the probe is back in place, held there by two big gauze bandages. The self-adhesive bandages they make these days will stick to anything.
Captain Obvious here. Maybe tape it when the keg is dry? A water-proof tape should stick fine thereafter.sticks to things that are wet
FYI - The fermometers I've used are marked every 2 degrees, but it there is a blue indicator instead of green, the temperature is between the blue and the brown. So you can read to 1 degree. And if it's turquoise (blue-green), I call it to the nearest half degree. That's not in the instructions, but it makes sense to me.
I suspect that the window cleaner left a surface film on the fermenter, which is the root of your problem. You should always rinse off any cleaners, and dry well before applying tape.It was dry when I put the tape on, and it got wet later. Then when I dried it off and cleaned it with window cleaner, I could not get anything to stick well. I should have pointed that out.
Not really the best analogy. For most cars the thermostat doesn't actually give you a measure of temperature just opens and closes coolant flow at a particular set temperature.
The vast majority of cars actually give you an indication of coolant temperature not the oil temperature.
But it is true that fermentation is affected by the temperature of the fermenting wort/beer regardless of ambient temp.
@Clint Yeastwood , this thread is now 10 months old...Could be.
Congratulations Dad! And best excuse ever for an unresponsive update. Haha. Best of luck, and a future as a multi-generation of Brewers.I had a son earlier this year, so you can probably imagine how much brewing I've gotten done. Hoping to get back on it shortly.
I had a son earlier this year, so you can probably imagine how much brewing I've gotten done. Hoping to get back on it shortly.
I had a son earlier this year, so you can probably imagine how much brewing I've gotten done. Hoping to get back on it shortly.
I use a big cooler bag and huge ice packs to lower fermentation temps to the mid-to-upper 60's F. At the early stages, I have to change the bags about every 8-10 hours, and the temp occasionally exceeds 70 until I change the bag. In later stages of fermentation, the temperature is a lot more stable and I can reduce the cold pack changes to about every 12 hours.This thread made me wonder, is fermentation temperature the most important thing as has been said in this thread and what the pro-homebrewers always say. Or is it actually temperature consistency during fermentation. I mean US-05 has an ideal 8 degree Celsius range.
IMHO it's temp.This thread made me wonder, is fermentation temperature the most important thing as has been said in this thread and what the pro-homebrewers always say. Or is it actually temperature consistency during fermentation. I mean US-05 has an ideal 8 degree Celsius range.
I wouldn't consider a change ofIMHO it's temp.
US-05 will produce a better beer swinging back and forth between 62 and 67 degrees than at a consistent 78 degrees.
It's both, really. Temp swings stress the yeastie-beasties, which could give you off-flavors, or just inconsistent results. Consider some Belgian strains like "Abbaye (at higher temps) will impart tropical, spicy and banana flavors and aromas. When fermenting at lower temperatures, the flavors and aromas become that of darker fruits, such as raisin, date and fig."This thread made me wonder, is fermentation temperature the most important thing as has been said in this thread and what the pro-homebrewers always say. Or is it actually temperature consistency during fermentation. I mean US-05 has an ideal 8 degree Celsius range.
Ahh. Got it.I wouldn't consider a change of
5f a swing really. I meant if temperatures were not controlled and the fermentation was let to rise in ambient room temperature. I have read fermentation would increase temps of the beer between 5-15f. So if in a 62f room we would see it rise to 75f during peak fermentation.
Interesting, yeah I wonder if downward swings may also be potentially detrimental to the fermentation too.How to Brew E4 cautions not to over-cool more than 2 degrees F below the set point. I use a swamp cooler and try to keep the beer temperature as steady as possible.
Palmer's statement was about downward swings in particular. I don't remember if he said anything about upward swings - didn't see it with a quick speed-read. I think he's concerned about the yeast getting sleepy when the temperature drops.Interesting, yeah I wonder if downward swings may also be potentially detrimental to the fermentation too.
Unless you are measuring the temp in several places at once how do you know this?I recently installed a thermowell on my All Rounder. Much easier and accurate temperature monitoring.
I understand that I do not know the temperature of every cubic inch of wort. At the same time, you cannot independently heat or cool every cubic inch of wort. I am comfortable knowing the temp at the middle and then heating or cooling accordingly.Unless you are measuring the temp in several places at once how do you know this?
The starters are easy. In the morning I put the flask in the fridge to make the yeast drop out. I then remove the flask and let it warm up. As my wort is chilling and close to pitching temp i pour the liquid from the starter and replace it with the cooled wort and let the yeast get active.How do you get your starters down to those temperatures before pitching?