Haze from dry hops

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I don't bother cold crashing, I bottle when the fermentation is done. I do use a mesh bag over the siphon as a filter to keep out the hop particles, but that's about it.

After a few days in the fridge, the yeast/sediment will drop, it's basically a cold crash in the bottle. My beers have come out clear after a few days+ in the fridge. Best results have been when I haven't touched my beers till a week in the fridge though. Perfect carbonation and clearness.
 
what can I do to get rid of the haze that comes from dry hopping with pellets, let it settle, cold crash?

There’s a few options at your disposal:

1) Lager your beer for several weeks and wait for the polyphenols to drop out of solution, then rack to a serving vessel. The colder the temperature, the faster particles will settle.

2) Fine and/or filter your beer. Commercial breweries frequently use centrifuges to drop the hop matter out — filtering can strip too much away. Fining beer is a common homebrewing process for adding dissolved gelatin to beer and dropping the temperature to encourage the particulates to settle quicker.

3) Enjoy it! Hazy beers taste better when they stay that way — I don’t enjoy hop particles in my beer, but all my dry-hopped beers are best before the haze drops out of solution.
 
Rather than start a new thread, I thought I would ask here.

How do you all dry hop and when?

I read the Palmer book and he recommends dry hopping towards the end of fermentation and making a slurry to reduce the amount of oxygen introduced to the fermenting wort.

I am making an NEIPA style beer that calls for dry hopping. My plan is to dry hop around 7 days in fermenting with 2oz ea. Citra, Mosaic, and Galaxy.

Palmer suggests boiling water, let it cool down and then adding the hops to that to make a slurry. Then, add the slurry to the fermenting wort. This is my first time doing this and I am pretty new to brewing beer.

Thanks!
 
Neipa you want a tonne in very early, like 24-48 hrs in. Then optionally more at the end stage of active ferment or in keg.
You really really want to limit o2 though in this style. If you are bottling I would not cold crash as this will suck in o2. Just prime and carefully fill bottles close to top with a tube. Even the initial rack isn't great presuming you can't keep o2limited. Might be worth not using an auto siphon if it mixes air while working.
If using buckets I'd bottle earlier and leave warm for a good couple weeks before chilling bottles well.
Didn't used to believe in the o2 paranoia, but in this style it makes a huge difference, and it's an expensive style to make a meh batch of.
 
Don't add water to your beer along with hops. Dry hop loose for best results in terms of contact surface area between hops and beer, cold crash if you must and enjoy. I dry hop at the end of fermentation or after for all styles, besides NEIPAs, where I like to dry hop in the first 48 hours and then again after 3-4 days later.

I never sanitize or do anything with the hops added to fermented beer.
 
Don't add water to your beer along with hops. Dry hop loose for best results in terms of contact surface area between hops and beer, cold crash if you must and enjoy. I dry hop at the end of fermentation or after for all styles, besides NEIPAs, where I like to dry hop in the first 48 hours and then again after 3-4 days later.

I never sanitize or do anything with the hops added to fermented beer.
Thanks a lot for the information, all. This really helps a lot. I wasn't sure if I should use a hop sack or just add them dry. I am going to try dropping them in dry.
 
The best results I've got in regards to actual dry hopping time, falls in the lines of 2-3 days, at which point I cold crash ( rarely ) and then bottle/keg. I get the most out of hops in 2-3 days, so a longer dry hopping time is not needed, at least for my taste. Also, try to enjoy these kind of beers fresh or freshest possible. I do save some bottles to see how they " turn out / act " after a longer period of time, but this is for test purposes, so I can get an idea how good my process is at my own homebrew level.

Cheers!
 
Back
Top