Will my NEIPA still develop a haze?

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GreenEnvy22

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After many dozens of batches of IPA's, stouts, red's, etc, I decided to try an NEIPA.
I'm all setup for this type of beer as I have fermzillas for fermenting under pressure and dry hopping, I do closed transfers to purged kegs, so oxidization isn't an issue.

Anyway, yesterday I brewed this one: Avg. Perfect Northeast IPA (NEIPA) Beer Recipe | All Grain Specialty IPA: New England IPA by kcq101 | Brewer's Friend
I followed the recipe mostly:
11 lbs 2-row
1lb 6.5oz flaked oats
1lb 6.5oz wheat malt
7oz honey malt

I did all the water additions as listed in the recipe.
I followed the hops schedule (Though I had to substitute citra->Amarillo and Galaxy->Simcoe), adding some at 10 minutes left in boil, then once my counterflow had the wort down to 170 I added the next round, let it sit 15-20 minutes, then continued cooling.
I hit my OG target right on.

However, I left a sample in a hydrometer cylinder overnight, at room temp, and this morning it's quite clear, no haze.
Will this develop as part of the ferment or dry hop phase?

I always cold crash my beers to clarify them, and will with this too (they end up in the keg anyway so going to be cold crashed no matter what), but I understand at won't affect the haze NEIPA's are known for as it's not the yeast/trub causing the haze, but the oils from the grains (like the oats). But I currently have no haze. Photos of that recipe look hazy, so I'm just curious what to expect.

Thanks for any input.
 
It should be hazy , but a few things that stand out to me . This recipe uses a high flocculant yeast . That might not make a big difference but I'm not sure . Your % of wheat is good , more then mine except I use flaked wheat instead of wheat malt . I also use white wheat , which aid in that hazy look . Flaked wheat is un malted so it harder to convert , but the white wheat helps.
 
This recipe uses a high flocculant yeast .

I think that's a good thing for NEIPA haze. I believe it helps the yeast get out of the way before dry hopping, and thus less of the oils are pulled down with the yeast. John Paul Maye studied commercial East Coast and Hazy IPAs, and found no average difference in suspended yeast counts between them.
 
Oops, I forgot to mention I used S-04 yeast, as I couldn't get the 1318. We'll see how it turns out. Already up to about 3% alcohol.
 

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I followed the hops schedule (Though I had to substitute citra->Amarillo and Galaxy->Simcoe),
I used S-04 yeast, as I couldn't get the 1318.
Well the tropical flavours of hops like Citra are pretty fundamental to the NEIPA flavour - and the high levels of polyphenols in southern hemisphere hops like Galaxy are what interact with protein from the grist to make the haze. So what you've got is not really a NEIPA, it's more West Coast.

Verdant is derived from 1318 so if you can only get dry yeast then Verdant is probably your best bet for this style.
 
I followed the hops schedule (Though I had to substitute citra->Amarillo and Galaxy->Simcoe)
Both Amarillo and Simcoe are great hops for NEIPAs, and no, just using those hops does not mean you made a West Coast IPA. Large whirlpool additions of even classic hops like Centennial, Cascade, Amarillo and Simcoe give a completely different character than old school boil additions of those hops. Amarillo + Simcoe + Citra sounds like a nice combo for a NEIPA.

I would not put too much weight into the results of your hydrometer sample. Early on I tried using S-04 for an NEIPA or two and they did tend to drop clear after 3 or so weeks. These days I am mostly using Verdant and I have very stable hazy beers, but I have also changed a lot since my early attempts at the style using S-04.
 
You might want to bump up your Oats. You're currently have 10% oats in the grain bill. You might get more haze and better mouth feel with 20% or more oats. I like the Lalbrew Verdant yeast but have gotten good results with 1318 as well. Good luck.
 
You might want to bump up your Oats. You're currently have 10% oats in the grain bill. You might get more haze and better mouth feel with 20% or more oats. I like the Lalbrew Verdant yeast but have gotten good results with 1318 as well. Good luck.
As a side note, I think it was Omega(?) that did a trial run recently and concluded that with an increase in flaked adjuncts the resulting beers tend to end up clearer.

If you want haze OP, choose a generally agreed upon yeast (1318, Verdant, S-04 etc) and dry-hop late and large.
 
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I made a second batch of this, this time using the proper yeast and hops. I did switch the regular 2row out for Maris otter. It turned out really well, this one that haze is staying strong, where as the last one it did drop out once it was in the kegerator.
 
Pretty good video, and informative and somewhat recent "revelations". Disregard the clickbaity title and thumbnail that everyone has to do on YouTube nowadays to get views.
 
However, I left a sample in a hydrometer cylinder overnight, at room temp, and this morning it's quite clear, no haze.
Will this develop as part of the ferment or dry hop phase?
My NEIPA hydrometers can drop clear when measuring OG. I usually find that the deep haze develops after the fat dry hop charges. The last one I made looked fairly clear in the fermenter even at FG. After the DH it was hazy AF.
 
Agreed. A big fat dry-hop after fermentation completes will result in thick haze if you use a typical NEIPA style yeast and have proper water chemistry.
 
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