• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

First Beer, Stuck at 1.016 SG

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Aug 13, 2025
Messages
15
Reaction score
14
Location
Houston, TX
Brewed my first every beer, partial LME, grain. Using a G40 system. It is a blonde ale using US West Coast M44 Yeast.

I didn't have a tiltometer in it for Day 1, but on Day 2 it read 1.0528. Because of my ignorance (and just some mistakes), I ended up fermenting 2 days at 65F and then 4 days at 70F, then a 2 days at 75F. Fermenting seemed to stall at 1.016. Yesterday, I bumped the temp down to 72 to try to get it going and nothing has happened. the target OG for the recipe was 1.013 and I am stuck around 1.0158. This would give me a ABV of about 4.89% instead of 5.2%.

Should I let it continue or add more yeast? Or, should I just proceed forward as is (cold crash then keg). I'm more than fine w/ the lower ABV but my worry is will the beer be too sweet. Like most people I suppose, I'm really just hoping for something moderately drinkable since it was my first attempt.

Note: I did a taste taste after day 5 just to experiment and it was sweet although I have absolutely no idea what to expect.
 
I would let it go util your gravity doesn't change for 3 days straight and then move forward. 1.016 is not that far off from 1.013 so it may be done, but I suspect you will get another point or two if you let it sit.
 
i never try bottling beer before day 10 and most of the time I let it have a minimum of 2 weeks. 3 weeks won't hurt it as it lets more of the suspended yeast and trub settle out so you get less trub in the bottles.
Thanks! I'm going to cold crash for a few days and then keg. But, I may bottle 12 or so as well just to learn that process too.
 
I would let it go util your gravity doesn't change for 3 days straight and then move forward. 1.016 is not that far off from 1.013 so it may be done, but I suspect you will get another point or two if you let it sit.
Thanks. I need to do a better job measuring on Day 1 but it's reassuring to hear that its not too far off. One thing I've had a hard time understanding is how much off is really too off to have something approaching drinkable.
 
Thanks. I need to do a better job measuring on Day 1 but it's reassuring to hear that its not too far off. One thing I've had a hard time understanding is how much off is really too off to have something approaching drinkable.
I've read (well I've read a lot of things) that some people add more yeast? Is that worth it at this stage? I don't have the exact same yeast but I do have some kveik ale yeast available.
 
Brewed my first every beer, partial LME, grain. Using a G40 system. It is a blonde ale using US West Coast M44 Yeast.

I didn't have a tiltometer in it for Day 1, but on Day 2 it read 1.0528. Because of my ignorance (and just some mistakes), I ended up fermenting 2 days at 65F and then 4 days at 70F, then a 2 days at 75F. Fermenting seemed to stall at 1.016. Yesterday, I bumped the temp down to 72 to try to get it going and nothing has happened. the target OG for the recipe was 1.013 and I am stuck around 1.0158. This would give me a ABV of about 4.89% instead of 5.2%.

Should I let it continue or add more yeast? Or, should I just proceed forward as is (cold crash then keg). I'm more than fine w/ the lower ABV but my worry is will the beer be too sweet. Like most people I suppose, I'm really just hoping for something moderately drinkable since it was my first attempt.

Note: I did a taste taste after day 5 just to experiment and it was sweet although I have absolutely no idea what to expect.
Welcome to HBT. The problem is the tiltometer. I use one when I brew Lagers. I dont think they're 100% accurate. I do think they're pretty dang close though. Any kind of krausen will slightly alter your reading. Refractometer before pitching yeast , then a hydrometer after pitching is my preferred way. You can use a refractometer to check your FG but you have to do a calculation. Even when I brew Lagers I do a FG check via hydrometer , even though a tiltometer is in the FV. I use the tiltometer to know when to start ramping up the temp in preparation for a diacetyl rest.
 
You could try rousing the yeast, don't open the fermenter to stir it (mistake I made in my first few brews!) instead leave it sealed and gently rock it backwards and forwards, not too vigorously, you've not trying to mix all the solids back in, just enough to cause some of the yeast cells in the sediment layer to go back into suspension. That can help a stuck ferment come back to life.

But that said, I wouldn't stress too much about a less than 3 point gravity difference, there's a reason yeast attenuation values always state a range and not a fixed value. I'm often off by 2-3 points of my expected FG. The most important thing is that the reading is stable for 48 hours.
 
You could try rousing the yeast, don't open the fermenter to stir it (mistake I made in my first few brews!) instead leave it sealed and gently rock it backwards and forwards, not too vigorously, you've not trying to mix all the solids back in, just enough to cause some of the yeast cells in the sediment layer to go back into suspension. That can help a stuck ferment come back to life.

But that said, I wouldn't stress too much about a less than 3 point gravity difference, there's a reason yeast attenuation values always state a range and not a fixed value. I'm often off by 2-3 points of my expected FG. The most important thing is that the reading is stable for 48 hours.
Thanks. One thing that your post did clear up for me was what exactly was "1 point". My Tilt device shows 4 decimal places, so I wasn't positive if 1.0132 to 1.0142 was 1 point, or 10 points. Now that I think more on it, that level of precision could be making me more confused on if things are changing.

It's been steady at 1.016 now for 48 hours and 72+ if you discard a 1 point tick up a couple of days ago for more. I think it may be done. My plan is to then cold crash for 2-3 days then keg it.

This thread (and forum) have been very helpful to me in my first 2 weeks

1755534611062.png
 
Looks like fermentation is done. 2- to 3 point is nothing. Two things to remember the estimated ending gravity is just that an estimate, not what your actual will be. Also your measuring tools are probably not lab grade. Whether you use a tilt , refractometer, or a hydrometer good chance the actual readings are not correct the could be off a couple of points, but will be in the neighborhood. Let us know how the beer turns out.
 
Yes, convention is to record gravity to 3 decimal places, I think because that's pretty much the limit of what can be 'seen' on a hydrometer or refractometer, Also 1 'point' (at 3 decimal places) is also around .13 ABV, if you go down to 4 places then a difference of 0.0001 is 0.013 ABV, beyond the limit of the convention of calculating ABV to 1 decimal, so an 'unnecessary' accuracy
 
Did you do a partial mash or simply add steeping grains?

If indeed a partial mash, what temp did you mash at? High mash temps will yield less fermentable wort.

Did you calibrate your Tilt? That might account for a few points.

Lastly, as stated, less than 3 gravity points is nothing to be concerned with.

You “know” that it’s a higher SG than expected so your brain expects sweet. I doubt if most could actually taste 3 gravity points of difference.
 
As has been mentioned above, tilt angle (how Tilts, Rapt Pills, iSpindles, etc. measure SG) hydrometers are not good for accuracy. If you want an accurate SG reading use a quality float hydrometer, and compensate for the difference in wort/beer temp and the calibration temp of the hydrometer. Tilt angle hydrometers are very convenient for monitoring the progress of fermentation, and when the apparent SG flatlines, then fermentation is done.

As far as adding yeast to restart a "stuck" fermentation, I have never seen a report of this actually working (if adding the same strain of yeast.) Adding a more attenuating yeast is sometimes helpful. If the FG ends up too high (when measured with an accurate measurement too), the cause is most often lower than expected wort fermentability. In some cases this can be remedied by adding amylase enzymes to the fermenter to increase the fermentability of the remaining complex sugars/dextrins. But, do not use glucoamylase (amyloglucosidase or just "gluco") unless you want to end up with an FG of 1.000 or less.

Brew on :mug:
 
Also note that some dry yeast providers (e.g. Lallemand) are currently listing estimated attenuation as a range:

1755562464708.png

For this strain (Nottingham), an accurately measured OG of 55 would have an estimated FG range from 9 to 12.
 
Update: Beer turned out pretty decent. For my first one, I am more than thrilled. It's drinkable and while its not the best blonde I've ever had, it is not the worse. Friends liked it and even my dad (craft beer hater) drank a few.

Thanks for everyone's help! I have 2 more currently fermenting (Helles Lager and Cream Ale) and and brewing another Pale Ale tomorrow. I've learned more in the last 4 weeks than perhaps anytime in my life. It's been incredible.

I may never leave my office (now called the brewery) every again. Tell my kids I love them
 
I have learned (or become lazy) and let my fermentations go for 4 weeks. I have still noticed some fermentation done after kegging due to being able to pour a glass to test and not have any CO2 on it. Amazing how long those little yeasties can hang around.
 
I have learned (or become lazy) and let my fermentations go for 4 weeks. I have still noticed some fermentation done after kegging due to being able to pour a glass to test and not have any CO2 on it. Amazing how long those little yeasties can hang around.
And sometimes extended fermentation is due to something other than those little yeasties.

Brew on :mug:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top