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I've been brewing with Winpaks for at least a year. Switched to a different product from US Plastics that has a number of advantages over Winpaks:

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1. The spigot allows clean transfers (to secondary or kegs). I run CO2 down the tube into the keg when doing transfers and put a layer of CO2 in the carboy prior to transfer to reduce exposure to oxidation as well.

2. The hole in the cap allows a bung and airlock so the carboy acts as both a cooling vessel after the boil, as well as a fermenter with the added feature of clean transfers to the keg.

3, The larger 3" opening allows easier access for dry hops, finings, etc.

4. The spout screws on from the outside. There are no internal threads. Much more robust than typical spigots used on plastic buckets and spigot can be turned sideways so unit lays horrizontal. Just turn it vertical when ready to transfer.

5. You can see through this much easier than with a Winpak.

6. There are measurement markers on the outside in 1/2 gallon increments that tell you exactly how much wort you have.

7. Because you can spigot it out while it lays on its side for fermentation, you get better precipitation of trub, etc. because of lower depth. Spigot is high enough to leave most prepipitate, colld break, trub, etc.

8. The large 3" opening means you can actually get your hand inside to clean.

Here is the link foor those interested: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=22677&clickid=redirect

There are two downsides I can see:
1. They don't stack quite as stable as the Winpaks do.
2. They hold about 5.5 gallons.I use Fermcap to eliminate foam during fermentation - a necessity because there is no room for it unless you do this or use an overflow tube. Fermcap has had no negative effect of foam or head retention in my beers.
 
I'm still no chilling my beers. They are still great. But I've been no-chilling in a sturdy, tightly-lidded kettle. I still haven't got into the winpacks because I don't store the wort prior to fermentation. But now my basement is in the 80s. I think I'll get a few to actually store some wort for the fall when I can ferment at better temps. I've not done that and it seems like an interesting experient. N_G
 
I am doing the same thing--just letting the kettle sit overnight. The lid fits nice and tight and I am on my fourth no-chill brew so far with no issues.

Between making starters with table sugar, ditching the secondary fermenter, and using the no-chill technique, my homebrew process has become so much more streamlined than just a couple years ago--and I drink more high-quality brew because of it. Thanks to everyone on the forum who contributes their experience in the name of a better beer.
 
I've been brewing with Winpaks for at least a year. Switched to a different product from US Plastics that has a number of advantages over Winpaks:

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ipscman, when it cools, does it create a vacuum? I did a test with mine, using just boiled water, I squeezed some air out and the next morning its shape was normal. I just used the cube as is with its own caps.
 
macfisherman said:
ipscman, when it cools, does it create a vacuum? I did a test with mine, using just boiled water, I squeezed some air out and the next morning its shape was normal. I just used the cube as is with its own caps.

Hi,

The original Winpak featured in many of the earlier posts DID create a vacuum and did contract. it usually remained contorted even when cool. The new ones I'm using are not contracting. However, I'm doing something now that I didn't do previously with the Winpaks and that may be the reason for the difference:

When using lager/Pilsner malt I lower the temp after the boil to 80*C/176*F before whirlpooling. This accomplishes three things:
1. Eliminates 30-45% of the DSM remaining after a 90 minute boil because SMM doesn't convert to DMS below that temp.
2. Helps hop aroma due to lack of boil volatization.
3. Reduces thermal units which reduces Maillard production of melanoidans, which deepen color, create more Strecker aldehydes, and diminish stability.

The above comes from my reading of the 2010 ed. of Technology, Brewing & and Malting, by Kunze.

So, the lower temp may not cause the same vacuum. Shouldn't be a problem either way.

1. Have you used one to brew with yet?
2. Are you using the Winpak or the one I now use?

Hope this helps,
 
ipscman-Where are you putting the air lock? I'd assume you're removing the spigot and placing it in that opening and then replacing the spigot once fermentation stops. Is that correct?
 
ipscman:

I'm just starting to do all-grain. So I haven't done this yet but test out equipment as I get it. I got the carboy with spigot that you posted about. I done a few tests now. First with filling it with boiling water and seeing the next day with no visible contraction. No hiss of air being sucked in when opening spigot or cap. I then tested with just putting about 2 cups of boiling water into the container, sealing the container, shaking the water for about a minute, dumping the water out. Then let the container cool (put in front of AC or just run cold water on the outside) and it contracts, but an hour or so later it is back to its normal shape. I thought we wanted an airtight container?

DrawTap88: there is a smaller cap in the 3 inch cap. An airlock can fit in there no problem.
 
I have 2 no-chll cubes that I use. The one seals properly and contracts whilst the other looks normal after the cooling has occurred. I can only assume that while the one seals properly the other doesn't.
 
Does anyone know how quickly fermcap will precipitate out?

I am considering the no chill and use fermcap during my boil and during fermentation (corny) and do not want to go over the recommended dosage. I suppose that I could just put half in during the boil and half during fermentation but was hoping someone may have the answer.
 
I add my fermcap during the boil and when I pitch yeast. I have to imagine the stuff drops out in the boil pretty quick.
 
I posted this in another thread but I thought it would be appropriate to add it to this one.

I did two no chill batches recently that I bottled about two weeks ago and they turned out great. I haven't read all 86 pages of this thread but I read a lot and everyone seems to be using the airtight plastic cubes to cool the wort in. I just used your standard ale pail with an airlock filled with vodka, the only difference being I put a vodka soaked cotton ball in between the air tube and the bubble cap. I knew that the air would contract and pull a lot of air in, and I even thought it would suck a lot of the vodka in and I would have to keep refilling it so I kept a close eye on it. None of the vodka was sucked in but the airlock did bubble steadily in reverse all night. I was worried that maybe sucking in all this air into a warm wort with no yeast in it would contaminate the beer, but i also thought it was worth doing an experiment and I was too impatient/cheap to buy a cube online.

But, here I am now drinking good homebrew that's definitely not infected and doesn't have any off flavors as far as I can tell. The last 5 batches I did before this all did get infected, BAD, and it's my opinion that this happened because I was using a wort chiller on my back porch sucking air into my cooled wort that wasn't drawn in through a vodka soaked cotton ball to sanitize it.

Has anyone else tried doing no chill this way and had similar results?
 
...I just used your standard ale pail with an airlock filled with vodka, the only difference being I put a vodka soaked cotton ball in between the air tube and the bubble cap....

Has anyone else tried doing no chill this way and had similar results?

I've not done it this way, but I've had success by filling an extra keg (sanke, but am sure corny would work, too) then putting a layer of CO2 on top before setting it aside. Worked perfectly fine!
 
Welcome to the cult of no chill! Prepare to grow a thick skin as people tell you that what you've done can't be done.

I dont chill in a winpack, I use the boil kettle with a heavy, fitted lid. No problems here either.
 
So my Winpack also came with a red lid. It's not screw on or anything, but it feels decently tight. Do you think it would be too risky to drill that for use with a blowoff tube?

I was stupid and didn't order an extra cap, now I don't want to spend $5 shipping for a $1 part :p
 
So my Winpack also came with a red lid. It's not screw on or anything, but it feels decently tight. Do you think it would be too risky to drill that for use with a blowoff tube?

I was stupid and didn't order an extra cap, now I don't want to spend $5 shipping for a $1 part :p

You don't need another cap. Just use a #11.5 (I think) stopper.
Or aluminum foil crimped over the edge-
 
You don't need another cap. Just use a #11.5 (I think) stopper.
Or aluminum foil crimped over the edge-

Well the stopper is for the airlock, but what about a blowoff tube? Although I could buy an extra stopper and drill that bigger for a tube I suppose.
 
Well the stopper is for the airlock, but what about a blowoff tube? Although I could buy an extra stopper and drill that bigger for a tube I suppose.

Insert just the bottom piece of a 3-piece airlock.

Attach the blowoff to the little bit that sticks up.
 
... I could buy an extra stopper and drill that bigger for a tube I suppose.

It is near impossible to drill out the white-ish rubber stoppers commonly sold at homebrewshops. The material is flexible & self healing; you wont get a nice clean hole. I know you've found another solution but if you were thinking of drilling the future, just buy one with the appropriate hole already cut.
 
After reading 70+ pages of this, Im going No-Chill for all the beers I'm brewing this weekend. I'm 2 deep already.

Multiple 5g batches... right into ale pail. Sealed up, swashed around, and airlock with vodka-swab ontop.

Can I get a vote of confidence here? This is scary...
 
After reading 70+ pages of this, Im going No-Chill for all the beers I'm brewing this weekend. I'm 2 deep already.

Multiple 5g batches... right into ale pail. Sealed up, swashed around, and airlock with vodka-swab ontop.

Can I get a vote of confidence here? This is scary...

Giddy-up!

One thing- I would crinkle star-san sprayed aluminum foil around the airlock.... but that's me.
 
Yea, I took the removable piece out of the airlock -- put a vodka soaked swap ontop - then aluminum foil ontop with the lid sitting on that.

Now that I think about it-- I should probably put that other piece of the airlock on after about the first 30 min or so... first 30 min it wasn't letting any steam escape that way. Vodka swap worked nicely.

I'll just put that piece on tongiht once I'm done I guess... for now the vodka-swab is nicey-nice.
 
So far I've done 5 no chill batches with the vodka filled airlock and soaked cotton ball. I've used the third piece of the airlock so it kind of bubbled in reverse, I think this keeps the cotton ball moist with vodka. I think it could dry out otherwise. 3 of my batches are still fermenting with no visible sign of contamination, and the other 2 have been bottled for a few weeks and I only have about 12 of each left because they taste so good.

While I like the vodka/cotton method, I'm still kind of paranoid for some reason. I ordered a 0.023 micron sanitary filter that's supposed to filter 99.99% of bacteria out, and it fits right in the airlock hole so I am going to try that next time. It's only $5.50 and says it should last for a year or so. Has anyone else tried that?

Here is the link to the filter from more beer http://morebeer.com/view_product/16797//Sanitary_Filter
 
I still have the removable piece of the airlock off -- Cotton ball ontop soaked w/ vodka, and starsan/vodka sprayed foil ontop. I check them every once in a bit to make sure they are still wet - and add a it of vodka if needed. So far, none dry.

More hardcore filters can only be a good thing, I'd think.

My only concern now is the headspace in these "Ale Pail" type fermenters I'm using. I know it'll likely be allright, but that's pretty much my only concern now. I should have just gotten my additional corneys ahead of time and did thing in the corney... seems perfect.

I love rolling the dice on a huge brew weekend... lots of brews being made... all new method.
 
Not to worry.
If you have the foil crimped, the nasties can't get in.
Heck, when I no-chill with the ale-pail, I don't use vodka or any liquid in the airlock... just the foil.
As a matter of fact, I often just crimp foil around the mouth of the better bottle and dispense with the stopper/ airlock.
 
Just put my first 10 gallon batch ever into the fermentation cooler, no chill, and I'll pitch tomorrow. Big weekend for me! First Pumpkin Ale, First 10gal batch, and first no-chill brew. Go big or go home =)
 
I did my first brew-in-a-bag and no-chill yesterday as well! Sold on the BIAB, and once I drill out my kettle and add a ball valve, I'll be sold on no-chill. Couldn't get a siphon to work (metal cane, silicone tubing), so I had to dump through a funnel. So much trub in the fermenter!
 
Insert just the bottom piece of a 3-piece airlock.

Attach the blowoff to the little bit that sticks up.

Well, this didn't work.

I had my first explosion today. Then I also somehow managed to push the stopper into my cube when I was trying to reattach it. Man, this was a bad morning. It ended with me dumping out nearly 5 gallons of beer, and I still have the messy chest freezer waiting for me when I come home from work.
 
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