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English Ales - What's your favorite recipe?

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I've been wanting to try cask ales, too, but haven't been able to find suitable containers online for sale in the US. Anyone have any pointers and how to cask?

I cask in a 20l Speidel Fermenter, using a second spigot on the top and a cask breather made from a LP propane regulator.

Cubitainers can be bought from US plastics, Uline, etc. in 1, 2.5 and 5 gallon sizes. Spigots are sold separately. Somewhere there's a PDF from Northern Brewer (who used to sell cubitainers) about how to cask condition in them.

Any food safe container with a spigot that will hold a few PSI of pressure and that can be sterilized and cleaned is fine for use as a cask. US plastics have a whole range of FDA approved plastic square carboys with spigots.

I just open the fridge (I use my fermentation chamber for storing cask beer between brews) and pour under gravity, there's no need for a beer engine at all.
 
Can you guys describe for me the dominant taste in a Fuller's London Porter? I'm terrible at describing tastes in beer. I recently made a clone from the BYO recipe and I tasted it side by side with the real thing, but it didn't have that "twang" that the real thing has. Is that fruit esters from the yeast? Is that bitterness from the hops? Is that roast from the malts? Mine is a good beer, but very one-dimensional next to the real thing.

I figure that with a better description of that dominant taste, I'll be able to see where I differ and be able to get closer to a great beer.

To my terrible taste buds, it is kind of like plums and alcohol together but that's the best description I can come up with.

Have a look on ratebeer or beer advocate for descriptors, I'm terrible at describing too. Bear in mind Fullers tend to bottle a bit before the beer is ready imo and you get more diacetyl with their bottled efforts than in cask form or probably homebrewers as well. Although the london porter isn't as bad for that as Pride etc iirc. Also they pasteurise that beer

I made Graham Wheelers recipe and it was an excellent beer. Did you use the exact malts that Fullers use? Because it uses a lot of brown iirc and they can differ a lot between the various maltsters. Also because of that mine didn't start to taste really good until about eight weeks after I bottled it - it was a bit muddled
 
As this seems to be where the brewers of English ales hang out I thought I'd ask here.

What do you think of Wyeast 1469 - West Yorkshire Ale? How does it compare to other English strains? I used it for Northern Brewer's Innkeeper and have since used it for two other batches that are currently fermenting.
 
Have a look on ratebeer or beer advocate for descriptors, I'm terrible at describing too. Bear in mind Fullers tend to bottle a bit before the beer is ready imo and you get more diacetyl with their bottled efforts than in cask form or probably homebrewers as well. Although the london porter isn't as bad for that as Pride etc iirc. Also they pasteurise that beer

I made Graham Wheelers recipe and it was an excellent beer. Did you use the exact malts that Fullers use? Because it uses a lot of brown iirc and they can differ a lot between the various maltsters. Also because of that mine didn't start to taste really good until about eight weeks after I bottled it - it was a bit muddled

Right now it is only 4 weeks in the keg, and muddled is a great description of the taste. No off flavors, just underwhelming maltiness. I'll refrain from pulling pints for another month and see what happens.

I did try to use the same malts, but I'm not sure I got all of them exact. On rebrew, I'll make more of an effort.
 
As this seems to be where the brewers of English ales hang out I thought I'd ask here.

What do you think of Wyeast 1469 - West Yorkshire Ale? How does it compare to other English strains? I used it for Northern Brewer's Innkeeper and have since used it for two other batches that are currently fermenting.

I like it a lot, using it for just about everything now. Great complex flavor, super reliable fermenter, and produces a ton of clean yeast for top-cropping. It also clears really well, even without cold crashing. Lower attenuation around 70%, but it comes across as drier and really well balanced.
 
I like it a lot, using it for just about everything now. Great complex flavor, super reliable fermenter, and produces a ton of clean yeast for top-cropping. It also clears really well, even without cold crashing. Lower attenuation around 70%, but it comes across as drier and really well balanced.

I haven't used it yet - but plan to do so for my next batch of Northern Brown Ale.
 
I do strict gravity using these: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23286. Fill em up after fermentation ends (primed individually to 1.4 volumes or so with corn sugar) with a tiny bit of headspace , attach spigot and then condense it down to purge out the oxygen from headpsace, keep around 70 for 5 days, purge only if you have to, chill overnight to cellar tempand then feed by gravity, and allow to settle in place 24 hours before tapping. Then consume in maybe 48 hours.

Now THIS sounds very exciting! :ban:

Somewhere there's a PDF from Northern Brewer (who used to sell cubitainers) about how to cask condition in them.

Thanks for saying that, my search-fu yields this (LINKY) for anyone interested.

How do the cubitainers or the beverage containers work with carbonated beer?

Apparently, per Qhrumphf above, pretty well and I'm very interested...
 
How do the cubitainers or the beverage containers work with carbonated beer?

They work apparently, but not to high volumes. From what I've read people do 1-1.5 volumes at most. I think I'm going to invest in a 1 gallon and a 2.5 gallon soon. Once I do and brew another bitter or mild (which should be soon), I will report, though I know others have already been doing it :)
 
I like it a lot, using it for just about everything now. Great complex flavor, super reliable fermenter, and produces a ton of clean yeast for top-cropping. It also clears really well, even without cold crashing. Lower attenuation around 70%, but it comes across as drier and really well balanced.

Thanks for the feedback rhys.
 
I definitely wouldn't go above 1.5 volumes. 1.2 is good and usually doesn't need venting. 1.4-1.5 volumes is where I go, and I usually do have to vent them a touch to make sure they don't burst. But yes, by gravity, no engine needed. Although I do plan eventually on putting together an engine/sparkler set up eventually.

I'd also note that unless you've got several people drinking or you drink a lot, probably better to go with a smaller one (I used the 1 gallon cubitainers). And the container can hold a little more than 1 gallon. I usually put about 0.9 gallons in there. And then they seem to lose carbonation a little over time, so definitely wouldn't recommend for something you plan on aging. If you want that on cask I'd go with a proper metal pin or firkin.
 
And 1469 is my house English yeast (or really just my house yeast). It's a good top cropper, good ester profile (not over the top, kind of a fruity-nutty thing), leaves a good malt-hop balance. It will indeed drop clear, but in my experience takes a little longer than other English strains, and is also notorious for leaving a sort of perma-krausen that hangs around even after the beer has dropped bright. If you leave it in the primary for a few weeks it'll fall, but if you want to rack sooner you'll have to rack out from underneath it. I almost always have to punch a hole in the krausen to take a gravity sample.
 
Having just kegged my first bitter made with 1469, I can confirm that it still had a solid krausen, despite having been finished for three days, and "cold" crashed to 50f for two.

I would have casked it, but I need it for Thursday, and I usually reckon on a couple of weeks to condition in the cask. It won't take long to carb up to 1.5 vols...
 
Sparklers show up here in Wales too, so I assume there's the usual South East bias and that's where they are *not* used :D The effect is a bit like the nitrogen in Guinness: Creamy, thick head, smooth; but without any gas actually added to the hand pump.
 
We just started pulling a few pints of the last batch of King's Forest Porter (recipe posted a while back). The flavor is excellent. The problem I have is that it has so many fans I may not be able to keep the keg around long enough to properly condition!

The one nit I would pick (just being a bit of beer-snob) and an update I would add to the recipe is I would suggest mashing it a little warmer than the original recipe calls for. It might need a little more fullness and will mash at 154F next time I make this beer.

Cheers!
:mug:
 
I am going to make a Maris Otter Smash, and after that I will have quite a bit of MO left over. I am looking for a recipe where the MO character is pronounced, but not as simple as my smash.
I really like the idea of doing a higher OG Southern English Brown.
I'm looking for slightly sweet, but very drinkable, 6% or so ABV.
Could anybody help me with a recipe?
 
I am going to make a Maris Otter Smash, and after that I will have quite a bit of MO left over. I am looking for a recipe where the MO character is pronounced, but not as simple as my smash.
I really like the idea of doing a higher OG Southern English Brown.
I'm looking for slightly sweet, but very drinkable, 6% or so ABV.
Could anybody help me with a recipe?

I make a mean English brown that is around 5.7% or so. It is based on the Brewing Network's Can You Brew It recipe of Black Sheep's Riggwelter. It is more of a Northern Brown, but the malt character is fantastic.

OG: 1.057

80% Maris Otter
10% Torrified Wheat
6% Crystal 80 (English)
4% Pale Chocolate (200L)

35 IBUs of EKG with about an ounce at 15 minutes.

I usually try to ferment this with 1469 from Wyeast, but I have used Nottingham in a pinch with great results, too. If you aren't up to making a starter, I would suggest the dry Nottingham. If you want it to finish a bit sweeter, a yeast like WLP002 or Wyeast 1968 would work just as well.
 
I make a mean English brown that is around 5.7% or so. It is based on the Brewing Network's Can You Brew It recipe of Black Sheep's Riggwelter. It is more of a Northern Brown, but the malt character is fantastic.

OG: 1.057

80% Maris Otter
10% Torrified Wheat
6% Crystal 80 (English)
4% Pale Chocolate (200L)

35 IBUs of EKG with about an ounce at 15 minutes.

I usually try to ferment this with 1469 from Wyeast, but I have used Nottingham in a pinch with great results, too. If you aren't up to making a starter, I would suggest the dry Nottingham. If you want it to finish a bit sweeter, a yeast like WLP002 or Wyeast 1968 would work just as well.

Thanks! Looks great, except what's with all that torrified wheat?
 
Thanks! Looks great, except what's with all that torrified wheat?

Body, head retention, authenticity. Not sure I would miss it in the recipe, but I have never tried it without it. I usually like having at least 5% wheat in most of my recipes, just to add a little foam stability. If you think the recipe doesn't need it, I'm sure it would still be a great beer without it.
 
I make a mean English brown that is around 5.7% or so. It is based on the Brewing Network's Can You Brew It recipe of Black Sheep's Riggwelter. It is more of a Northern Brown, but the malt character is fantastic.

OG: 1.057

80% Maris Otter
10% Torrified Wheat
6% Crystal 80 (English)
4% Pale Chocolate (200L)

35 IBUs of EKG with about an ounce at 15 minutes.

I usually try to ferment this with 1469 from Wyeast, but I have used Nottingham in a pinch with great results, too. If you aren't up to making a starter, I would suggest the dry Nottingham. If you want it to finish a bit sweeter, a yeast like WLP002 or Wyeast 1968 would work just as well.

I've been looking for a good english brown. If I wanted to make this southern english, would you recommend an additional 4% chocolate (400L)? Cheers.
 
I've been looking for a good english brown. If I wanted to make this southern english, would you recommend an additional 4% chocolate (400L)? Cheers.

You certainly could. I would probably add a little higher lovibond crystal malt (around 120L), too. Maybe a quarter pound of each.
 
Would anyone have any qualms about adding a quarter pound of melanoidin malt to amber english milds? Malt bill is 7 pounds Marris Otter, 8 ounces C-150 and 4 ounces melanoidin. I've done this already and it is good. Just wondering about taking it out in the next version and subbing in 4 ounces of amber malt. Anyone else using melanoidin malt in milds?
 
I've never used melanoidin malt. I've used amber malt in milds and it's good. Some dark invert (4oz or so) is very good too and gives that fruity edge.
 
Like many here, I brew a lot of English Ales, probably 80% of what I brew. I use 1469, 1968 and 1318 yeasts. I find in most of my recipes, 1469 need to age a little more than the other yeasts for best flavor, at 8 weeks it really comes thru. I find 1968 and 1318 are excellent from the get go but 1469 seems to have suppressed flavors early on. I have a few favorite recipes, these are all 3 gallon batches, I brew on the stove and boils are gentle to middle, nothing violent like when using a large outside gas burner. I use mostly Crisp Maris Otter for the base but use mostly Briess for the other malts due to easy availability.

Dark Mild
3 gallon all grain
3.4 gallon boil size
60 minute boil
O.G. 1.034
F.G. 1.008
2.75# Crisp Maris Otter
4 oz. Briess Chocolate 350L
4 oz. Briess Carabrown
2 oz. Briess Caramel 80L
2 oz. Red Wheat (home malted)
1/2 oz. EK Goldings @ 60 minutes
1/4 oz. EKG @ 10 minutes
1.25 quarts water per pound of grain mash, mash high to help increase body (156F) ferment cool, start @ 62, allow to raise to 66-68 at finish, rouse yeast at day 2, let stay on yeast bed 10-14 days. Easy drinking but flavorful. Light notes from chocolate.

Pale Mild
3 gallon all grain
3.4 gallon boil size
60 minute boil
O.G. 1.034
F.G. 1.008
2.75# Crisp Maris Otter
4 oz. Briess Victory
4 oz. Briess Carabrown
4 oz. Flaked Corn or instant grits
1/2 oz. EK Goldings @ 60 minutes
1/4 oz. EKG @ 10 minutes
1.25 quarts water per pound of grain mash, ferment cool, start @ 62, allow to raise to 66-68 at finish, rouse yeast at day 2, let stay on yeast bed 10-14 days. This is a very easy drinking ale, thirst quencher in the summer.

Robust Porter
3 gallon batch size
3.4 gallon boil size
60 minute boil time
1.056 O.G.
1.016 F.G.
31 SRM
28 IBU
4 lbs. Crisp Maris Otter
14 oz. Briess Carabrown Malt
9 oz. Briess Caramel 80L
7 oz. Briess Chocolate 350L
3/4 oz. Fuggle @ 60 minutes
1/2 oz. Fuggle @ 30 minutes
1.25 quarts water per pound of grain mash, ferment cool, start @ 62, allow to raise to 68 at finish, rouse yeast at day 2, possible more, let stay on yeast bed 14 days. Strong chocolate and coffee flavors but not roasty like a stout. Good body, an after dinner sipper in the winter.

Pub Ale
3 gallon batch size
3.4 gallon boil size
60 minute boil time
1.040 O.G.
1.010 F.G. (can be lower depending on mash)
4 lbs. Crisp Maris Otter
3 oz. Briess Caramel 80L
1 oz. Briess Chocolate 350L
1/2 oz. EKG @ 60 minutes
1/2 oz. EKG @ 20 minutes
1.25 quarts water per pound of grain mash, mash low (148-150) makes more crisp, ferment cool, start @ 62, allow to raise to 66-68 at finish, rouse yeast at day 2, let stay on yeast bed 10-14 days. Easy drinking, basic pub ale.

Enjoy, Tony
 
I noticed that some people are using red wheat in their recipes. Compared to white wheat, how does red wheat differ in flavor and other attributes?
 

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