English Ales - What's your favorite recipe?

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WYEAST 1318 London Ale III is the liquid yeast it's supposed to be very similar to.
Here's a whole thread on it

Lallemand Verdant IPA Ale | Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

I just brewed a double NEIPA with it last weekend so I can report back in a few weeks.
Unfortunately it's a new recipe though so can't compare directly with any other yeasts.

It was also top cropped from a previous batch I made a few months ago but that was a bit of a inventory clear out and no grain quick and dirty beer.
A mix of hops, extracts and sugars (including lactose) that were getting old that I wanted to use up.
I guess you could call it a red milkshake IPA.🤒
Was quite tasty and filling actually.

I did do a split batch and fermented the other half with US-05 and a different dry hop.
I do remember the Verdant half turned out nicer but might be because of the different dry hop.
I need to check my notes as it was a while ago o_O
 
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Good information at your link @Shenanigans. Whatever that yeast might be, it's current use suggests it is suited to newer North American styles and possibly not English Ales.
 
Good information at your link @Shenanigans. Whatever that yeast might be, it's current use suggests it is suited to newer North American styles and possibly not English Ales.

Quote:
Wyeast 1318 - London Ale III - Activator

Originating from a traditional London brewery, this yeast has a wonderful malt and hop profile. It is a true top cropping strain with a fruity, very light and softly balanced palate. This strain will finish slightly sweet.


Flocculation: high

Attenuation: 71-75%

Temperature Range: 64-74° F (18-23° C)

ABV: 10 %


This yeast is suitable for following beer-styles:


  • Bitter
  • IPA
  • Brown Ale
  • Stout
  • Scottish Export

Own experience:

British.
 
Yes, it's certainly worth a try, just puzzled as the makers call it Verdant IPA after a relatively new brewery whose main focus is Juicy, hoppy, hazy Pales, IPAs, DIPAs rather than traditional British ales. Prominent notes of Apricot and undertones of tropical fruit is certainly applicable to beers produced by new and some established breweries who have followed trends and styles of overseas.

Just looked through the logbook to see 2014 was the last time I used London yeast. My last brews of that year were with a Yorkshire yeast that won me over and have used yeasts of that ilk ever since. I buy a packet with my next order for a trial.
 
For what it's worth, London III is one of my least favorite yeasts. The interwebs tout it as the Boddington yeast. To my palate, it is dull, lifeless and falls on the tepid side of lukewarm. It is not for me but might be a yeast for you.

Thusly, Verdant IPA is low on my list of new yeasts to try. In fact, I'm trying to cull the herd of yeasties I have in the library. Seems like as soon as I winnow one out, two more magically appear.

@cire West Yorkie and Essex ale (which according to @dmtaylor 's most excellent research) are very closely related, and make most excellent ale's in my experience. Essex Ale is a WLP vault strain, which was recently released and there may be more at white labs if you check. W Yorkie is regularly available from Wyeast or at least used to be.
 
For what it's worth, London III is one of my least favorite yeasts. The interwebs tout it as the Boddington yeast. To my palate, it is dull, lifeless and falls on the tepid side of lukewarm. It is not for me but might be a yeast for you.

Thusly, Verdant IPA is low on my list of new yeasts to try. In fact, I'm trying to cull the herd of yeasties I have in the library. Seems like as soon as I winnow one out, two more magically appear.

@cire West Yorkie and Essex ale (which according to @dmtaylor 's most excellent research) are very closely related, and make most excellent ale's in my experience. Essex Ale is a WLP vault strain, which was recently released and there may be more at white labs if you check. W Yorkie is regularly available from Wyeast or at least used to be.
That is interesting to hear! To me verdant is extremely fruity, but not dull at all. I'm not quite sure if this excessive fruitiness is somehow related to 10% homemade invert additions I've had in every beer I brewed with it so far. Maybe the extra glucose pushes ester production? I will bottle a simple bitter this weekend which I intentionally brewed without invert, malt only. So at least this mystery will be solved soon.

Did you use simple sugars when you tried London 3? What do you exactly mean with dull? No yeast character? Muted hops?
 
That is interesting to hear! To me verdant is extremely fruity, but not dull at all. I'm not quite sure if this excessive fruitiness is somehow related to 10% homemade invert additions I've had in every beer I brewed with it so far. Maybe the extra glucose pushes ester production? I will bottle a simple bitter this weekend which I intentionally brewed without invert, malt only. So at least this mystery will be solved soon.

Did you use simple sugars when you tried London 3? What do you exactly mean with dull? No yeast character? Muted hops?
When you type 'invert' are you referring to inverted unrefined cane sugar? I've done a number of comparable recipes with and without and I'm happy to accept inverted raw cane sugars can make a very pleasant difference. One of my favourites is about 10% demerara sugar, inverted or not, in a simple bitter. It's quite difficult to source good quality cane sugars locally, especially demerara. The 'Dansukker' stuff looks like refined beet sugar sprayed with a coat of molasses. I have to get it sent over from the UK, but it looks like the pandemic has had an impact on supply chains.
IMG_0566.jpg

The one on the left is pre pandemic and on the right from last year. Not quite the same. The pre pandemic stuff is gorgeous, moist and full of complex flavour whereas the latest batch is more like ordinary unrefined cane sugar and best inverted with a little molasses added.
 
When you type 'invert' are you referring to inverted unrefined cane sugar? I've done a number of comparable recipes with and without and I'm happy to accept inverted raw cane sugars can make a very pleasant difference. One of my favourites is about 10% demerara sugar, inverted or not, in a simple bitter. It's quite difficult to source good quality cane sugars locally, especially demerara. The 'Dansukker' stuff looks like refined beet sugar sprayed with a coat of molasses. I have to get it sent over from the UK, but it looks like the pandemic has had an impact on supply chains. View attachment 747888
The one on the left is pre pandemic and on the right from last year. Not quite the same. The pre pandemic stuff is gorgeous, moist and full of complex flavour whereas the latest batch is more like ordinary unrefined cane sugar and best inverted with a little molasses added.
Yes exactly. I use organic "rohrohrzucker", which looks a bit like the right sugar on your picture. It's basically cane sugar that had the molasses removed by centrifugation, which leaves some traces of it. Sometimes I add a little bit of completely untreated sugar, which didn't have the molasses removed at all. Overdoing this results in strong licorice flavour which can be "transformed" into dark fruits and tobacco when boiled fairly long.

I boil my invert as long as it needs to get into the colour direction of Invert no. 2, which enhances caramel and fruity notes.
 
Yes exactly. I use organic "rohrohrzucker", which looks a bit like the right sugar on your picture. It's basically cane sugar that had the molasses removed by centrifugation, which leaves some traces of it. Sometimes I add a little bit of completely untreated sugar, which didn't have the molasses removed at all. Overdoing this results in strong licorice flavour which can be "transformed" into dark fruits and tobacco when boiled fairly long.

I boil my invert as long as it needs to get into the colour direction of Invert no. 2, which enhances caramel and fruity notes.
Yeah, molasses are pretty potent. Easy to ruin a beer. Less is definitely more. I use 1.2% (in invert #1) to make #2 and 3.5% for #3.
 
Yeah, molasses are pretty potent. Easy to ruin a beer. Less is definitely more. I use 1.2% (in invert #1) to make #2 and 3.5% for #3.
I try to get as much flavor from the caramelisation/maillard reactions as possible while adding as little molasses as possible to promote the reactions. The main colour of my invert comes from the sugar treated with heat over time. My darker ones are simply boiled longer. I made a really dark one, literally black, in the oven by keeping it in there for like 8h +. I've yet to brew with it, but the taste test is promising. Burnt sugar in a good way. I will use it in a dark mild this weekend or the next.

Not saying that this is THE way of doing it, but it rendered interesting results in the past.

A friend of mine who is a professional brewer (not British though) said that he adds a strong base at the end of boil and that his invert only gets the colour at this particular point.

So much to experiment with....
 
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For what it's worth, London III is one of my least favorite yeasts. The interwebs tout it as the Boddington yeast. To my palate, it is dull, lifeless and falls on the tepid side of lukewarm. It is not for me but might be a yeast for you.

Thusly, Verdant IPA is low on my list of new yeasts to try. In fact, I'm trying to cull the herd of yeasties I have in the library. Seems like as soon as I winnow one out, two more magically appear.

@cire West Yorkie and Essex ale (which according to @dmtaylor 's most excellent research) are very closely related, and make most excellent ale's in my experience. Essex Ale is a WLP vault strain, which was recently released and there may be more at white labs if you check. W Yorkie is regularly available from Wyeast or at least used to be.


I've not used London III, but tried WLP013 London Ale for 3 brews 2012/13. None were much good and notes on the third included a remark suggesting it not be used again. Nor have I used West Yorkshire or Essex from Whitelabs. When getting London Ale yeast there was a sale at a local homebrew shop when I was rash and were disappointing.

When those were finished I was gifted an authentic West Yorkshire yeast from within UK. Left untouched for a few days from pitching it had hardly fermented and to make steady progress required regular rousing. Shortly afterwards a local brewer gave me a sample of his yeast, which he said didn't need rousing, but I found it did, or at the least, benefitted from it. Those and others of similar types I've used since, have been roused and top-cropped to provide a significant quantity to pitch at subsequent brews resulting in little need to purchase any others, but maybe the time has come for me to put my hand in my pocket again.
 
I've not used London III, but tried WLP013 London Ale for 3 brews 2012/13. None were much good and notes on the third included a remark suggesting it not be used again. Nor have I used West Yorkshire or Essex from Whitelabs. When getting London Ale yeast there was a sale at a local homebrew shop when I was rash and were disappointing.

When those were finished I was gifted an authentic West Yorkshire yeast from within UK. Left untouched for a few days from pitching it had hardly fermented and to make steady progress required regular rousing. Shortly afterwards a local brewer gave me a sample of his yeast, which he said didn't need rousing, but I found it did, or at the least, benefitted from it. Those and others of similar types I've used since, have been roused and top-cropped to provide a significant quantity to pitch at subsequent brews resulting in little need to purchase any others, but maybe the time has come for me to put my hand in my pocket again.
I always seem to go back to Yorkshire yeast. Even when I've been impressed by other yeasts.
 
Is there one that doesn't need the extra pampering?
With enough healthy yeast pitched I think most ferment nice beers. Harvey's and, to a lesser degree, Yorkshire Square Ale (WLP037) seem to benefit more from pampering, though. Ringwood, West Yorkshire Ale and a BrewLab strain referred to as 'CC' are what I've used most without any pampering. Sufficient headspace in the FV is a nice-to-have, either a bucket (extender) attached on top or an over sized FV, say a 60L for a standard batch or 30L for half batch. Rousing isn't essential to get a nice beer. Stirring with a long spoon occasionally, after active fermentation has started, isn't a bad idea. I never tried it, but did plan to get a Speidel 60L FV and recirculate from the bottom tap into the top of the FV via a solar pump, which is probably the simplest way to pamper the yeast. Just ignore all advice offered on pitching rates and pitch as much healthy (fresh) yeast slurry as you can build up. My little 12L Speidel FVs often get used to build up yeast starters from 2L, while fermenting half a batch of mild, before fermenting a full batch and repitching until my empties are full.
 
Harvey's and, to a lesser degree, Yorkshire Square Ale (WLP037) seem to benefit more from pampering, though. Ringwood, West Yorkshire Ale and a BrewLab strain referred to as 'CC' are what I've used most without any pampering.

I've yet to try all of these. Since you have maybe you'd answer a question - do you find that any one of them tends to reflect a Samuel Smith's character? Every time I brew a nut brown I try a new yeast candidate hoping I can get somethign similar to what they use. Yorkshire will be in my next one I think but I'm open to a suggestion if you have one.
 
I've been re-pitching the same WY1469 West Yorkshire for ~7 years now.

After using it for a number of years, I acquired a number of UK strains from the White Labs vault (plus yeast harvested from Harvey's and St. Austell's) to do small test batches to see what I preferred. I tested 9 yeasts in total (pitched in the same wort with the same oxygenation), I did this for three generations of each yeast, and I still decided on 1469 as my preferred yeast.

I typically brew 2.5 gallon batches, and I find pitching from a vitality starter (~1L of first runnings), plus pure O2 through a .5 micron stone being delivered at 1/4 L/min for 3.5 minutes provides consistent performance and flavor development I enjoy.
 
I've yet to try all of these. Since you have maybe you'd answer a question - do you find that any one of them tends to reflect a Samuel Smith's character? Every time I brew a nut brown I try a new yeast candidate hoping I can get somethign similar to what they use. Yorkshire will be in my next one I think but I'm open to a suggestion if you have one.
It's difficult to say with any degree of confidence. I've been trying for a few years now to isolate yeast from the occasional bottle of Samuel Smith's Stingo, but I've not been successful so far. And I'm trying to do so in a yeast lab, too! I just checked local availability - thanks for the reminder - and there're 4 bottles in stock at Drammen Vinmonopolitet, 65.5km away. I'll grab a bottle in the week and give it another go. I don't mind, it's a nice beer. Anyway, WLP037 is definitely more complex. Too much so, if not careful. What I find with commercial traditional English ales is that the qualities often remarked on are actually subtle to very subtle. Beer is a pretty simple affair, in my experience. The enjoyable complexity isn't 'in ya face'. It's generally reserved, but definitely there. It's subtle, but there. If under pitched, especially with something like WLP037 and Ringwood, the yeast profile gets amplified and it can unbalance the beer. This is why I recommend pitching as much healthy yeast as possible, as a home brewer. Traditional commercial English breweries are pitching shed loads of very healthy yeast. It's one of the jigsaw pieces that helps to produce a balanced traditional English ale. In terms of what's available, generally, yeast wise, I'd recommend West Yorkshire (WY1469) to most people and Yorkshire Square (WLP037) to those who are prepared to work with it and build it up into something worth pitching.
 
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I've been re-pitching the same WY1469 West Yorkshire for ~7 years now.

After using it for a number of years, I acquired a number of UK strains from the White Labs vault (plus yeast harvested from Harvey's and St. Austell's) to do small test batches to see what I preferred. I tested 9 yeasts in total (pitched in the same wort with the same oxygenation), I did this for three generations of each yeast, and I still decided on 1469 as my preferred yeast.

I typically brew 2.5 gallon batches, and I find pitching from a vitality starter (~1L of first runnings), plus pure O2 through a .5 micron stone being delivered at 1/4 L/min for 3.5 minutes provides consistent performance and flavor development I enjoy.

Wow, that sounds awesome!
I've only used WY1469 in two beers so far and I was so pleased with it that I'll have a hard time pushing myself to try any other British yeast.
 
It's difficult to say with any degree of confidence. I've been trying for a few years now to isolate yeast from the occasional bottle of Samuel Smith's Stingo, but I've not been successful so far. And I'm trying to do so in a yeast lab, too! I just checked local availability - thanks for the reminder - and there're 4 bottles in stock at Drammen Vinmonopolitet, 65.5km away. I'll grab a bottle in the week and give it another go. I don't mind, it's a nice beer. Anyway, WLP037 is definitely more complex. Too much so, if not careful. What I find with commercial traditional English ales is that the qualities often remarked on are actually subtle to very subtle. Beer is a pretty simple affair, in my experience. The enjoyable complexity isn't 'in ya face'. It's generally reserved, but definitely there. It's subtle, but there. If under pitched, especially with something like WLP037 and Ringwood, the yeast profile gets amplified and it can unbalance the beer. This is why I recommend pitching as much healthy yeast as possible, as a home brewer. Traditional commercial English breweries are pitching shed loads of very healthy yeast. It's one of the jigsaw pieces that helps to produce a balanced traditional English ale. In terms of what's available, generally, yeast wise, I'd recommend West Yorkshire (WY1469) to most people and Yorkshire Square (WLP037) to those who are prepared to work with it and build it up into something worth pitching.
Thanks! Once I've had enough of verdant (might be soon, I just brewed too many beers with it), I will give it a try.
 
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Thanks! Once I've had enough of verdant (might be soon, I just brewed too many beers with it), I will give it a try.
Well, when you're ready, let me know. I don't charge that much, postage mainly. It's more about sharing the joy than charging for the pleasure.
 
I'd like to have a go with the Harveys yeast down here in NZ. What do you think would be the best way to get some to grow up?
Order a slide and keep my fingers crossed or get a small bottle of beer sent over and then grow that up?
Any ideas?
Or just go with a White labs or wyeast close as which I can get.
 
How have you been keeping that going? Starter each time? I’ve only been able to keep a yeast throughout my brew season which is usually Sep-April/May

My SOP is to top crop and reserve for the next batch; with a vitality starter I find I can go 2-3 weeks before re-pitching.

If it goes beyond three weeks, I will prop it up via stir plate starter and resume as usual.

Through pulling different "levers" I can have this yeast achieve 68%-84% AA dependent on what type of recipe I am shooting for (some old Boddington's recipe achieved very high degrees of attenuation, in an era when Brett would not have most likely been the cause).
 
I'd like to have a go with the Harveys yeast down here in NZ. What do you think would be the best way to get some to grow up?
Order a slide and keep my fingers crossed or get a small bottle of beer sent over and then grow that up?
Any ideas?
Or just go with a White labs or wyeast close as which I can get.
I sent some Harvey’s down to NZ last year. I only sent it because the guy was a yeast tickler. I kid you not, Harvey’s yeast is bewitched. It takes something more than standard procedure to make it sing. And that’s from a superstitious witch groomed in Lewes many moons ago. On Harvey’s Best mainly. And one or two witches on broomsticks with and without suspenders. Those were the days. Memories are sweet. Sussex uni. I’d do it all again, just for a chance to tickle Harvey’s yeast 🤘
 
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The enjoyable complexity isn't 'in ya face'. It's generally reserved, but definitely there. It's subtle, but there. If under pitched, especially with something like WLP037 and Ringwood, the yeast profile gets amplified and it can unbalance the beer. This is why I recommend pitching as much healthy yeast as possible, as a home brewer.
Any tips and tricks for the Yorkshire Sq would be appreciated. I got this out of the vault, made maybe half a dozen different tries and flailed around like a headless chicken. Sometimes it would be full saison, other times dull, once infected. I gave up as too much yeast for me. But I've got some in the fridge that can prolly be revived and I'd be willing to give it a shot with some pointers.

Is it as simple as a huge starter, stir it with a spoon twice a day for the first 2-3 days of fermentation? What temperature?
 
Is it as simple as a huge starter, stir it with a spoon twice a day for the first 2-3 days of fermentation? What temperature?

It should help, but I’d say WLP037 performs best with more effective rousing. One of the reasons a big starter (or, even better, a big repitch) works better is that it leaves more yeast cells in the wort fermenting. That sounds like I’m stating the obvious, I know. But with highly flocculant, top-cropping Yorkshire strains they prefer to climb out of the wort and bury themselves in sediment at the bottom. Even if you think you’ve pitched enough, based on what mysterious pitching calculators prescribe, the fermentation is likely under pitched without rousing and getting yeast cells back into the wort. I pitch at 17*C, once yeast and FV wort are steadily at the fermentation chamber setting. I generally don’t control the temperature, unless ambient is very warm or cold. Just let it free rise under its own steam. It my case - with a very large corner fridge as fermentation chamber - it rarely goes above 21-22*C. I don’t like the temperature ping ponging back and forth to risk shocking the yeast.
 
Any tips and tricks for the Yorkshire Sq would be appreciated. I got this out of the vault, made maybe half a dozen different tries and flailed around like a headless chicken. Sometimes it would be full saison, other times dull, once infected. I gave up as too much yeast for me. But I've got some in the fridge that can prolly be revived and I'd be willing to give it a shot with some pointers.

Is it as simple as a huge starter, stir it with a spoon twice a day for the first 2-3 days of fermentation? What temperature?

While there are some confines, working with a Yorkshire yeast might not be as restricted as might first be imagined.

Basically such yeast are very heavy top fermenting AND very flocculant. After pitching there is the usual lag when the yeast are not that apparent by observation, but once a krausen begins to form, it will continue to grow and be raised by the CO2 generated. If left untouched it looks in every respect like any other yeast, but it flocculates to thicken and become less permeable, thereby diminishing the quantity of active yeast in the wort. This is seen by parting the yeast to reveal a less active surface and darker wort than will be seen with other yeast strains. Effectively fermentation is continually subsiding, unless the surface yeast is returned to the wort, such that if large sterilized paddle or the like is used for this purpose, the wort can be seen to color up as the yeast returns.

When I ferment 50 litres in a 100 litre vessel, maybe 6 or 8 hours after pitching the yeast would be oozing down the outside if a lid was fitted. For this reason, open fermentation is the way these yeasts are used, and are roused to retain yeast in suspension and active. The more rousing, the more the working yeast and the more heat generated. Therefore there is a relationship between the rate of rousing, temperature and potential temperature control. Rousing also controls the rate of fermentation AND the degree of fermentation.

Basically, without rousing fermentation slows to a crawl, and this can and is used to advantage for racking. As sugars present diminish, fermentation will slow and a point comes when rousing is stopped and the cap is skimmed to leave a thin covering for protection from bacteria and oxygen. Gravity is then measured and if as intended of expected the green beer is allowed to cool (NOT CHILLED) to cellar temperature over a day or so and for a day or three when the beer clears while very slowly fermenting to create and maintain carbonation. The beer is then racked from between the top and bottom layers of yeast to carbonate and condition in a sealed container.

There are significant differences between Burton yeasts and Yorkshire yeasts and the necessary equipment.

Yorkshire yeasts can and have been used to good effect without using a Yorkshire Square, but they do have their advantages.

@tracer bullet , I've had the pleasure of a conducted tour of Sa Smith's Brewery by none other than Sam Smith the third. There beers are distinctive while the brewery is very old fashioned, but nothing remarkable or vastly different to other breweries of the same period. Very little equipment from mash tun to cask is modern, indeed much of it is original with signs of ancient repair. I don't think their yeast is the only reason for their beers being potentially difficult to replicate, but Tadcaster, like Burton was renown for its brewing water. Their supply has been in use from very early days from an aqua 78 feet (I think) below the brewery, the same as all other breweries in the town. There are now only two others, John Smith and The Tower Brewery, recently owned by Coors, but in earlier times there were several more. I should have asked for a sample when visiting, for I think the source is in a strata of magnesian limestone that once was the shore of the Zechstein Sea, an inland sea when there was only one landmass on earth. Water from this aquafer has an elevated level of magnesium as compared to aquafers in other limestones and all I might suggest is despite the standard warnings about excess magnesium, try brewing it with 100 ppm calcium and 40 ppm magnesium with a 2:1 ratio of chloride to sulfate.
 
Thanks @McMullan and @cire for the recommendations. Well... I'm drinking a porter (I run these on the lighter, drier side with brown and black malts) and fermenting a stout (heavier w/ roasted barley and chocolate), but maybe a brown will have to be next. I was thinking an IPA to mix it up haha but I'm a bit excited now to try your recommendations, so we will see. Thanks again.
 
@McMullan and @cire thanks. I am going to have to take another stab at the Yorkshire Squares before throwing in the towel. Either of you want to share a showcase recipe for the yeast?

To be frank, the recipe is the least important factor. You are more than welcome to any I've used, but buying in bulk mean there are lots of odds and ends to use up, that create most recipes.

My Black Sheep Ale recipe. 90 minute mash and 90 minute boil with half hour stand after boil and after cooling to 80C.

Liquor profile 185 Ca, 43 Mg, 31 Na, 385 SO4, 200 Chloride with alkalinity 25ppm as CaCO3.
BS.jpg


This one more hoppy and lighter. The hops quantities were chosen to use up odds and ends on hand, but I always use a large array of hops of similar origin/family for this recipe to produce a beer of greater character.

Liquor profile was 150 Ca, 34 Mg, 38 Na, 285 SO4, 183 Chloride and alkalinity 20 ppm as CaCO3.
Again 90 minute mash and boil with half hour stand at 80C.

BT.jpg
 
Hello,

Cire recently invited me to the forum and pointed me in the direction of this thread. I'm the bloke in NZ that McMullan (very kindly) sent Harvey's yeast to. I'm very happy to send some on to you DuncB if you'd like to try it too. Is there a way to send a PM on this forum? If so drop me a line and we can work something out (I'm based in Northland).

I recently did a comparison of wort fermented with the Harvey's strain roused vs. 'un-roused'. The results of this simple comparison were far from definitive but may still be of interest (see abridged notes below). My impression currently (based on little experience with the strain), is that rousing is important in encouraging a timely, healthy fermentation and reducing/limiting phenolic character. I don't know if phenols increase with yeast stress, but if so, I think rousing would reduce stress on this powdery strain and keep it ticking over.

Notes:

At least three features of the Harvey's culture have been theorized as causing problems in the home brewery: 1) the culture comprised of two Saccharomyces cerevisiae strains plus a latent strain of Debaryomyces hansenii, each of which might behave differently across home brewing environs/worts; 2) the culture originating from the Yorkshire square family of 'Saison-like' strains, requiring regular re-circulation/rousing; and 3) it's phenolic character.

Concerning point 1, the putative 'multi-strain' composition of the Harvey's culture has been contested (Personal Comm.). After plating the Harvey's culture on malt/agar and WLN media, I detected only one colony morphology. However my dilution of yeast cultures and plating techniques are both poor.

A photo of a typical colony of the Harvey's strain, grown on wort/gelatin media:

ScreenHunter_128 Oct. 24 17.32.jpg



An article regarding the 'multi strain' character of Harvey's yeast described a single strain originally sourced from John Smiths, that after serial re-pitching contained two genetically identical 'strain's' plus Debaryomyces hansenii (See: https://www.beervanablog.com/beervana/2 ... 892_30493=). However the article also described the ratio of the two 'strains' changing with no or very little perceived impact on the fermentation or flavour profile of the resulting beer. I interpreted this as possibly indicative of the type of mutation found in single strain cultures when serially re-pitched, as described by McMullan (Personal Comm.). In contrast I was able to identify two strains of yeast in a sample from another regional UK brewery, each of which exhibited different morphology, brewing behaviour and flavour. In essence, the Harvey's yeast for most practical purposes could be treated as single-strain.

Regarding points 2 (Yorkshire yeast), and 3 (phenolic character), Northern Brewer has commented that:
"It's a proper Yorkshire yeast (from John Smiths) so won't reward you if you leave it undisturbed at the bottom of a fermenter like it's Whitbread B or something, it needs to be splashed about.

Also, with the usual caveats about sequencing, an old isolate was sequenced and like many of the Yorkshire yeasts was found to be a POF+ member of the saison family, as are WLP037 and WLP038. So if you think back to how people have had problems with the phenolics in WLP037, except for [McMullan] who put it through his mini-square system, it's perhaps not surprising that Harvey's hasn't worked brilliantly at homebrew level, it just needs more oxygen". (See: viewtopic.php?f=13&t=7436&p=112946&hili ... 7s#p112946)

Inspired by McMullan's Yorkshire Square setup I prepared two fermenters: one with a re-circulation loop including spreader plate/makeshift 'fish tail' and timed pump, and the 2nd a standard s/s bucket in a temperature controlled fridge. The former fermenter included a s/s coil plumbed into a circuit with a pump, under-bar chiller and STC1000 controller. A heat pad was also attached to the STC1000 unit.

20210827_155332.jpg


A single gyle of 'Harvey's-esque' bitter was brewed using a recipe adapted from a photograph of Harvey's Log book for their Best Bitter, brewed on the 4th November 2004.

GW's 'bitter' liquor profile was used alongside Gladfield malts and home made invert sugar. On propagating the yeast from a slant, I observed it was flocculant but produced a very powdery sediment. The powdery sediment combined with good flocculation resulted in a film of yeast settling on any surface immersed in the wort, if the sediment/wort was agitated then given a few minutes to settle. This behaviour would possibly suit a Yorkshire square or Burton union type arrangement where the wort was pumped or encouraged up onto a flat, draining surface such as an upper deck/trough. In this comparison I did not attempt to separate the yeast from the wort in this manner, and simply top cropped using my usual regime (after approx 48 hours, once every 24 hours for 3 total top crops). Under the microscope the cells were even and circular, but appeared to be smaller than I am used to seeing. I don't have a means of measuring the size of cells under the microscope, so my visual assessment is subjective. Abbreviated brew notes are below:

A small amount of Gladfield Dark Chocolate malt was added to tweak the colour in place of the coloured priming sugar or caramel possibly used at the brewery (Personal Communication, b).

Liqour: aiming for a variation on Graham Wheeler's Bitter profile

Ca: 170
S04 273
Cl 137.9
Predicted pH (Brew N Water): 5.1

Total Liqour: 77L

Mash: 16L:
CaSo4: 7.8g
CaCl2: 4.2g

Sparge: 0.7ml lactic acid

Boil:
CaSo4: 29.9g
CaCl2: 15.9g

Didn't quite have enough invert No.3 so made up the difference with No.1 (approx. 1/3rd invert No.1 or 200g).

Fermentation regime: Set up a remote timer to start re-circulation after 24 hours post pitch. Unfortunately the timer only works in 15min intervals, so the re-circulation continued for longer than reported on the net for commercial breweries (between 5 and 10 minutes). When lifting the lid during re-circulation there was a lot of perceived CO2 above the beer being released. Not sure how/if the presence of the lid will have affected the results of re-circulation (i.e. possibly trapping more co2 above the beer than if the fermenter was truly 'open'. Initially I thought the regime should run from 24 hours post pitch to 36 hours post pitch, so I stopped re-circulation over night (e.g. after 12 hours of the cycle). However, later I read that re-circulation continues over a period of 36 hours (rather than from the point of pitching the yeast), so I restarted the program for an additional 12 hours (total period of re-circulation = 36 hours ignoring the 8-9 hours 'interruption' when I turned off the timer/pump). FV#2 was left undisturbed.

Sunday 19th: Took a gravity reading and small taste sample from both FV. FV#1 - light esters, very faint, almost imperceptible phenols, quite 'light' and almost clean but with a yeasty bite/aftertaste. Gravity at 1.010. FV#2 is much sweeter, pleasant, no yeast taint but phenols are more pronounced (but actually pleasant). Gravity 1.020. Started dropping temp in FV#1 to 19.5c, then 18c, then straight to 10c over 24 hours.

23/09/2021: Casked FV#1 beer with 15g fuggle dry hop, 23g table sugar and 24ml of Super S. Beer quite cloudy with yeast going into the pin. Much cloudier than I would like but no yeast bite as before. Quite a sweet flavour with some light esters, very light phenols, but generally quite 'clean' tasting. FV#2 fermenter at 19c so crashed it to 10. A taste comparison of beer from FV#2 showed increased phenols compared to FV#1 to the point that FV#2 beer could pass as 'Belgian'. Not unpleasant though, just not what you might expect for a bitter. The rousing does indeed seem to reduce the perception of phenols in the beer and also increase fermentation speed.

30/09/21: Tapped the roused version. Good clarity although not 'polished'. Reasonable head that fades leaving some lacing down the glass. Light hoppy aroma, some ripe fruit esters, very subtle phenols. Flavour is ripe fruit, light malt and hops, very subtle phenolic (more of a background subtle spice note). Very easy drinking. Light bodied but not watery. Reminds me of Harvey's best bitter but could do with an additional week conditioning to 'round out' the flavours. Drinks as a bit thin/green at the moment and could do with a little bit more sweet/mouth feel which I think will come in a week. Pleased with the phenol expression though - seems appropriate given my memory of Harvey's. Certainly quite subtle but present. Tastes like British beer (not Belgian).

06/10/2021: Pulled a pint. Lovely, subtle orangy, marmelaide hoppy notes on the nose (probably from the Pacifica hops used in place of Golding). Good frothy white head that laces the glass. Good clarity and colour, if a little pale for Harveys (lack of invert No.3, caramel). Mouthfeel is light with gentle carbonation, Notes of pear, and melon, some bitter citrus peel, perhaps some phenolic spice, but the latter is a very subtle background note that blends with the ester profile to create a superior flavour rather than being perceived as a flaw. Dry finish that leaves a pleasing malt and hops aftertaste that encourages another sip. Very nice beer. The finish is perhaps a little dry and I would like to brew it again perhaps with a less vigorous rousing regime, but altogether very nice indeed.

14/10/2021: Currently drinking pin#2 after tapping it last week. Very pleasant bitter beer. Nice loose head with good retention and light lacing down the glass. Flavour is more full bodied than the roused version, good malt and hops profile, some light fruity esters and a balanced, light, phenolic note that isn't intrusive. To be honest the phenolic note doesn't seem any more present than the roused version. Of the two beers, this is definitely the better. However I think a 'light, rouse' of perhaps 5 mins max duration at 48 hours would be beneficial to make sure the yeast does it's job (given it is so powdery). Subsequent 5 minute rousing may also be beneficial, but I can't draw conclusions about the appropriateness of that regime based on current observations. So far, from the one brewing attempt with this strain, it seems a really nice yeast and not problematic at all. I wonder if this is down to the microbiological skills of McMullan who supplied a very healthy, robust yeast than propagates well. Another explanation might be cask conditioning: this beer tastes like a traditional cask conditioned ale. Perhaps in bottle or keg form the very light phenolic nature seems more intrusive?

19/10/2021: Excellent beer. Medium bodied which seems perfectly balanced - not too heavy but also with a pleasing quality. The esters and (very light) background phenolic note are in perfect balance with the malt and hop profile which shine through cleanly. A very pleasant and easy drinking pint.

The results of this comparison may have been shaped by my use of pure O2 at a rate of 1 L/P/M for 90 seconds. This may have reduced the perceived impact of rousing compared to wort simply aerated via transfer from a height into the FV. During the first rouse I perceived a high concentration of CO2 (nasal/aroma assessment) above the beer, but this had dropped off quite noticeably during the 2nd rouse. The results obtained here may also have been shaped by the skill of McMullan in propagating a very healthy culture.

In summary, my impressions of this culture after using it ONCE, are that it produces a very pleasant UK style bitter beer with good hops and malt profile, subtle esters and a very light, almost imperceptible phenolic character that blends well with the ester character. Just like the commercial Harvey's bitter I suspect the phenolic character varies with the age, handling, and other factors affecting the condition of the beer. Nevertheless neither beer (whether roused or left to ferment undisturbed) was overly phenolic in this single comparison. I would like to brew more with this yeast and get to know it better.

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Excellent work, @Fuggledog. I think acclimatising Harvey's to fermentation by serially repitching fresh helps push it in the right direction, too. Although potentially biased by pitching fresh yeast at a much higher pitching rate it kind of ties into the benefits of repitching fresh regardless. From memory, the metabolic pathway linked with phenolic character has been associated with environmental stress in wild yeast, so this might explain why acclimatising the yeast to fermentation helps push the character from 'off flavour' to desirable complexity. It's possible too that some people just won't like it regardless, given we're all hardwired differently and sense complex issues like beer quality in different ways. Some people might have a lower threshold for the phenolic character, for instance. Beer drinkers can be acclimatised, too. When I first tried Harvey's Best, shortly after starting Sussex uni at Falmer, just down the road from Lewes, my experience was something like, 'interesting, but not what I'm used to' then ordered a Guinness, as Ringwood hadn't made it that far into deepest East Sussex by then. Fours years later, a pint of Harvey's Best was standard procedure. Not my favourite yeast strain, but fun to work with occasionally.
 
@McMullan I have just bottled my simple bitter, which did not include any invert sugar/simple sugars, but only base malt and crystal malt. I fermented this one with verdant IPA to figure out wether or not the intense fruitiness of this yeast might be caused by the simple sugars, mainly glucose boosting ester productions.

Seems like I was on the right track. I can now fully understand how you came to the conclusion that this yeast is "a bit bland". The bitter I tasted today, although it being really green, was just... bland! No fruityness at all from the yeast, that was a surprise! So I think that simple sugars are essential to let this yeast shine. But overdoing it results in too much fruitiness. With 10% invert, I am already at the edge of my fruit bowl tolerance, so starting with 5% might be a wise idea.

If you are one day a bit tired of having to pamper your yorkshire babys, you might want to give this one a try, but with some invert, or at least some glucose.

Btw. all your writing about healthy amounts of healthy yeasts made me brew in parallel to botling today, so I managed to brew a simple dark mild and dumped it directly on the yeast cake of the bitter. I did this previously with all type of yeasts which yielded always excelent results, except of the rare occasion where I caried forward an Infection. This is definitely a good way of getting better results then just throwing in the odd pack of dry yeast. Let`s see where this one is going, it is low og with 1.033 and it has loads of yeasties to munch it to perfection. Often dry yeasts begin to shine with the second generation, so let`s see.
 
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@McMullan I have just bottled my simple bitter, which did not include any invert sugar/simple sugars, but only base malt and crystal malt. I fermented this one with verdant IPA to figure out wether or not the intense fruitiness of this yeast might be caused by the simple sugars, mainly glucose boosting ester productions.

Seems like I was on the right track. I can now fully understand how you came to the conclusion that this yeast is "a bit bland". The bitter I tasted today, although it being really green, was just... bland! No fruityness at all from the yeast, that was a surprise! So I think that simple sugars are essential to let this yeast shine. But overdoing it results in too much fruitiness. With 10% invert, I am already at the edge of my fruit bowl tolerance, so starting with 5% might be a wise idea.

If you are one day a bit tired of having to pamper your yorkshire babys, you might want to give this one a try, but with some invert, or at least some glucose.

Btw. all your writing about healthy amounts of healthy yeasts made me brew in parallel to botling today, so I managed to brew a simple dark mild and dumped it directly on the yeast cake of the bitter. I did this previously with all type of yeasts which yielded always excelent results, except of the rare occasion where I caried forward an Infection. This is definitely a good way of getting better results then just throwing in the odd pack of dry yeast. Let`s see where this one is going, it is low og with 1.033 and it has loads of yeasties to munch it to perfection. Often dry yeasts begin to shine with the second generation, so let`s see.
I think as long as FV wort is low in trub, using the whole yeast cake is fine. Trubby yeast slurry, with its protein content and general nutrition levels, invites bacteria to establish. One of the reasons I like the Yorkshire square system so much is it traps a bucket load of the most active, healthy, clean yeast for easy harvesting.
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Any potential infection is more likely to become overwhelmed. This might be important where low OG worts don’t quite produce enough ethanol to sanitise the slurry for bacteria. When serially repitching, especially with FV slurry, it’s probably good practice to up the OG (1.050-1.060) routinely, to reset any bacteria burden.
 
I stopped by Central Market in San Antonio to peruse the beer selection, and after adding Tornado Shark (Lone Pint) and Schlenkerla to my cart, I saw a large bottle labeled "Pattinson Porter". For about three seconds I wondered if it could be related to our very own Ron Pattinson (duh), but then I saw that it was a Jester King beer. I attended Ron's talk at the brewery in 2019, and I'm very much looking forward to tasting the beer with my neighbor in a few days.
 
Put another English-influenced beer in the Cubitainer over the weekend.

A bitter with about the same hop bill as Timothy Taylor’s Landlord. First time using Verdant IPA yeast and was happy with the attenuation- down to 1.008 (I like my beers dry) and the flavor profile was decent on the hydro sample.

about 3.1%abv this one should be refreshing 🍻

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First time of brewing, so can't yet say it's my favorite, but being popular here thought I should brew J W Lees Best Mild of 1952.

Decided to not add caramel, but use #2 in place of #1, and unintentionally added a little extra brown malt, so maybe the colour could be close. The brewlength was 50 litres and time was scarce, so it was a bit of a make do and mend by the end of the day. The grist was mashed and sparged down to 1005, producing 33 litres at 1045 from the boiler . The invert sugar was boiled separately, then diluted before being added to the FV to make the final volume. The yeast (B14 from Brewlab) was pitched when it and the wort was ~18C shortly before the invert addition.

The FV has 100 litre capacity and the picture taken 6 hours after pitching, temperature 18C.

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This was it 90 minutes later.R0010801.JPG and three hours later the yeast head was folded into the wort.


Next morning, 12 hours after the last picture the yeast cap had changed colour. The top was gently skimmed and the rest knocked back.

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11 hours later before and after the fifth rousing.
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Temperature is currently 20C.

I can't smell any hops at present and the dominant smell is brown malt and needs to improve.
 
@cire How do you rouse the yeast, and what's your rousing schedule? Not something I have ever done but maybe should start.

Basically, it is done when I can and when necessary if I get there before it climbs out of the FV. I will do it maybe 10 times during a typical ferment.

It should be automated on a basis something like 5 minutes every five hours. This type of yeast climb on top of the wort and flocculate leaving fewer cells working and substantially slowing fermentation making rousing essential for progress. After the yeast is returned, more yeast is created so the krausen grows larger to require more rousing and so on, so it will in some ways be bespoke for the yeast in use, the amount and the vessel.

By rousing, fermentation will be finished on a typical 1040/1050 wort in 2 to 3 days, while unroused might take 14 days to reach the same stage. When gravity is approached, the yeast is cropped for the next brew and the beer slowly cooled. Gravity falls more slowly and the beer clears and is casked a point or two above anticipated final gravity leave sufficient for natural carbonation.

Beer held at cellar temperature continues to ferment for weeks and eventual final gravity can be as low 1000, although well before that point is reached the keystone in casks will blow out. This has happened to me several times in casks that have been store too warm or for long periods, but Yorkshire yeasts usually drop bright in a few days and the cask vented and ready to serve within a week or two.
 
Should have said I rouse with a large spoon sterilised over a gas flame. This was what greeted me this morning, 11 hours since it was previously roused.

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The yeast peaked and slipped back. The yeast was very thick and clumpy and quickly fell back into the green beer. A quick reading by refractometer was too high to even merit an effort to calculate the necessary correction and has me a little perplexed at this stage. I'm hoping I've underpitched and the yeast will soon be back in full action. The temperature in the garage has dropped and heat from fermentation isn't sufficient to maintain my preferred temperature and have set the thermostat higher. I'm hoping the lower calcium present in the mash has not caused the enzymes to denature prematurely.
 
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