OMFG! You're not ...
30-is minutes long (at 1x). Easy to listen to at 1.5x. For those looking to upgrade their understanding of active dry yeast from the early 2010s (e.g. the book Yeast) to the early 2020s, this appears to be a good starting point.There is an additional video staring Brittney that discusses a lot of detail about the production of and use of dried yeast.
If I buy say 3 pack of US-04 on Amazon I direct pitch first 2 packages. Third beer gets 1qt starter from the last package and second qt of starter goes to the yeast bank in the freezer. Collected yeast is mixed with water+glycerine as described in different thread on this forum.OP is starting with dry yeast. Can you add some details for your various processes (along with ideas as to when you use which process)?
What I think most people may not have forethought on this. They are looking at only THIS batch and not future batches (or Insurance)... I live in a small town and have no HB Shop within 80 miles and I often brew on the spur of the moment when time becomes available. I always use a starter for ALL yeast. There is a FACT that you do not need a starter for dry yeast but I always do it. The reason is about three years ago I was making a large beer and after 5 days of fermentation I realized that I had dead yeast (2) packets. I did not have time to drive 80 miles each way so it was dumped. Now, If I would have had so dry yeast on the stir plate I could see if the yeast was dead or not... Just my take.Reading HtB and the yeast management chapter, it sounds like it's not necessary to use a starter after rehydrating dry yeast? I was planning on rehydrating my yeast per the back of the pack, then pitch this into a starter on the stir plate.
The ale that I'm brewing is a hop blonde from morebeer with an est OG between 1.043-1.048. Per HtB, for this style of beer, it is recommended that for a 6gal batch of 1.045 OG brew, 192 billion cells is the recommended pitch rate. Turning the page, the estimated growth factor for 100 billion cells (1 pack) in 1 liter of starter would produce 200 billion cells.
Interested in others thoughts on this.
There is an additional video staring Brittney that discusses a lot of detail about the production of and use of dried yeast.
I live in a small town and have no HB Shop within 80 miles and I often brew on the spur of the moment when time becomes available. I always use a starter for ALL yeast. There is a FACT that you do not need a starter for dry yeast but I always do it.
The two highlighted sections are at odds with each other. My idea of "brew on the spur of the moment"
All good, except the distilled water. That definitely kills a portion of the yeast due to osmotic pressure. I've literally seen that happen. Place a piece of potato in distilled water over night and look what happened to it next day. Have a piece in tap water next to it for comparison.If I'm doing a big (to me) beer at over 1.065, and using fresh dry yeast, I will usually do a vitality starter; pull off some of the first runnings, cool it down to 70°, and let the yeast sit in there until ready for pitching. Sometimes I forget that step and rehydrate in distilled water. And sometimes I forget THAT step and just sprinkle the yeast on top. All methods produce beer. Some start up fermentation faster than others. Just depends on my mood and forgetfulness, and beer consumption during the brewday. Beer yeast has been around for many many many hundreds of years, and will be here after we are all gone. Hardy little beasts, they are.
The latest from Fermentis is that distilled water is fine. The rules change really fast. See this link in Tips and Tricks: Tips And Tricks - English (calameo.com)All good, except the distilled water. That definitely kills a portion of the yeast due to osmotic pressure. I've literally seen that happen. Place a piece of potato in distilled water over night and look what happened to it next day. Have a piece in tap water next to it for comparison.
I think the pitching rates practiced by home brewers are more driven by commercial interests rather than promoting a good fermentation. What it really says is, 'there is enough yeast in this pack for us to make a profit out of mediocre fermentations'. Whenever I've pitched straight from a pack, wet or dry, there's usually a delay much longer than a genuine lag phase and it seems fermentation scrapes through unpredictably. I definitely recommend pitching more yeast. One problem with dry yeast is viability being as low as 60% or even less. So it's probably better to consider a 12g pack as 7g and use 2 packs. What I like to do is make a half batch of beer as a big starter to get plenty of yeast for a proper fermentation. There's no substitute for repitching enough fresh yeast. Yeast like this can't be bought, it can only be prepped at home. If you can manage to brew once a week for a few weeks and repitch batch to batch you'll notice a big improvement in fermentation.@McMullan I have come to a conclusion, I think we are being sold short regarding pitching rates for dry yeast. Brewed this brown ale saturday night, pitched around 10.30 in the evening and a bit before the 12 hr mark I saw signs things were happening, but it was not until about 36h post pitch that it was really going full speed. Pitched 1 12g pack and gave the bucket a good shake, 20L in FV OG 1.042.
In the future I will probably rehydrate 2 dry packs for my 20L batches, for my smaller 15L batches I can probably get away with one. Most my brews are 1.040-50.
What do you think? I am starting to believe there might be something to what you say about many calculators and the common wisdom on pitch rates being a bit on the low side...
I used one pack in 12L and it seemed to work better. Obvious signs of fermentation after 36 hours, instead of 72+.Do you think I am able to get away with 1 pack for my 15L batches?
I'd just try pitching the dry yeast, rehydrated or not into the FV wort. A SNS vitality starter has no real benefit here. Dry yeast don't need oxygen. And the high cell density (1 pack in 3dl) risks programming the yeast cells not to divide. The cells communicate chemically with each other, to respond to their environmental conditions, including population density outstripping available resources. At best they're just going to get a little feed.I could do a small 1 pack 3dl SNS type vitality starter for my 15L batches on the morning of the day I brew, since I have started brewing at weekend nights in order to have the kitchen child free for myself...
Can you describe the situation(s) where you didn't see obvious signs of fermentation after 48 hours?Obvious signs of fermentation after 36 hours, instead of 72+.
Same. With 1qt starter even in 4-6 hours for ales and 12 hours for lagers.This is mostly a counter-ancedotal for future readers, but it may also lead to interesting data points.
Can you describe the situation(s) where you didn't see obvious signs of fermentation after 48 hours?
FWIW, over the last five years, I've pitched a lot of yeast dry using a number of common strains (US-05, Nottingham, S-04). Across a range of SG (40 - 70) and temperature (63 - 67), I see obvious signs of fermentation within 24 hours.
I don't use dry yeast generally, but I have been experimenting with dry lager yeast fermenting under pressure lately. Pitching at 12°C. Activity assessed by gravity dropping and pressure building up. Using higher pitching rates promotes a better fermentation. More viable cells/ml basically. That's my main observation so far and suggests 1 pack of dry yeast isn't quite enough for a standard (23L) batch of wort. With liquid yeast my lager fermentations are done after about 5 days, which is what I'd expect. I've got some dry Verdant IPA yeast to play with over Easter, but I don't expect much difference at ale temperature, tbh. I'll probably do a half batch, harvest and repitch into the same recipe, just to demonstrate the obvious.This is mostly a counter-ancedotal for future readers, but it may also lead to interesting data points.
Can you describe the situation(s) where you didn't see obvious signs of fermentation after 48 hours?
FWIW, over the last five years, I've pitched a lot of yeast dry using a number of common strains (US-05, Nottingham, S-04). Across a range of SG (40 - 70) and temperature (63 - 67), I see obvious signs of fermentation within 24 hours.
4-6 hours is about the length of a genuine lag phase (switching on required suites of genes and translating proteins/enzymes to multiply and ferment) and what we should be observing when pitching enough healthy yeast cells.Same. With 1qt starter even in 4-6 hours for ales and 12 hours for lagers.
Good to know -- how you are using the dry lager yeast may be meaningfully different from how I am using dry ale yeast.I have been experimenting with dry lager yeast fermenting under pressure lately
I'm looking forward to seeing the ancedotal report.I've got some dry Verdant IPA yeast to play with over Easter, but I don't expect much difference at ale temperature, tbh.
Good to know -- how you are using the dry lager yeast may be meaningfully different from how I am using dry ale yeast.
Windsor : I've used it a couple of times, sprinkling it on top of the wort. When measuring visual activity, it appeared to start and finish quicker than the strains I commonly use (US-05, S-04, Nottingham). I'm not convinced it gets to FG any faster, but I haven't brewed with it for a while (Windsor doesn't ferment maltotriose - so for me, it doesn't work well with many of the worts I want to ferment).I did a starter with Windsor dry yeast 24hrs in advance (and the pack expired 5/21!) and I have activity in my blow off just after 3 hrs. Probably started 1/2-1 hrs ago by the look of it. I have never had a beer start that quickly, especially dry yeast. Starters work.
Update, it was humming 2-3 bubbles a second this morning. 4 hrs later has slowed to to 1 a second. Could it be winding down already? By 24hrs it may be mostly done.
I brewed today. I did a starter with Windsor dry yeast 24hrs in advance (and the pack expired 5/21!)
What's a 'long lag time'? A yeast lag phase is a few to several hours, not a few to several days. If it takes more than several hours - to express genes and translate mRNA to proteins - there's something wrong.
That's not a genuine lag phase, regardless what Lallemand's marketing claims. Most brewer's yeast don't respond well to being dried in commercially driven processes. Clearly 'Köln' is one of them, clinging on by its teeth.Per Lallemand
https://www.lallemandbrewing.com/en...-details/lalbrew-koln-kolsch-style-ale-yeast/
My experiences is that the lag can be a bit longer than that with this strain. I have actually been in contact with Lallemand about my experiences. I've used multiple packs from different lots as well. Lallemand actually direct shipped that strain to me as a replacement for a bad batch.
- Lag phase can be longer compared to other ale strains, ranging from 24-36 hours
That's not a genuine lag phase, regardless what Lallemand's marketing claims. Most brewer's yeast don't respond well to being dried in commercially driven processes. Clearly 'Köln' is one of them, clinging on by its teeth.
It's simply the time it takes to remodel the proteome to respond to the new environment. The time taken to express genes and translate proteins. It takes hours not days.Mind schooling me on what you mean by not a genuine lag phase? I don't mean that in a negative tone at all. I'm genuinely curious
Enter your email address to join: