Clever, eliminates the need for a second vessel and heat source.Another method I have used is called the Earl'sche modified decoction schedule. With this method, you only add 50% of mash water and 60-70% of grain, do a 149 for 30, 162 for 30 step mash., then leaving the grain basket in, bring it to a boil and boil for 20. Then add the rest of the water, which needs to be cold, and rest of the grain...stir until the temp drops below 149. Then go through the two mash steps again and mash out (and sparge if you do, I don't) and then your normal boil.
This is very similar to how I do a decoction in the mashtun. I have to use a spare false bottom to keep the grains under the top of the wort as I heat to 205°F and hold there while constantly recirculating. It's just as effective and no extra vessel to clean up.I have done it a few times, using a 32 ounce long handled ladle to scoop on the grain into a gallon pitcher, then in to a large kitchen pot that I heat on the stove. I don't know if it's the Foundry's thermometer being calibrated for "middle of the mash" or what, but the few times I did it, it never seemed to increase mash temp much. so still had to heat the main mash. But at least I am getting flavor that decoction brings.
Another method I have used is called the Earl'sche modified decoction schedule. With this method, you only add 50% of mash water and 60-70% of grain, do a 149 for 30, 162 for 30 step mash., then leaving the grain basket in, bring it to a boil and boil for 20. Then add the rest of the water, which needs to be cold, and rest of the grain...stir until the temp drops below 149. Then go through the two mash steps again and mash out (and sparge if you do, I don't) and then your normal boil.
I often do a decoction when brewing in my brewzilla. I just remove 1-2 gallons of wort into another kettle, boil separately on the stove, and then add back in and rinse the kettle. I mainly do it to help boost the temp/speed up the boil time (and hopefully add a little depth to the flavor).
I would even take that a step further and say it's significant what part of the grist you choose to decoct. What part of the grist has the maltster advanced in the process that you choose to cook makes a difference. If I'm making a maibock, I'm cooking the darkest grains with the lowest degrees lintner first. Who cares about the starch inside, it's all identical, I care about the dark husk contribution above 180°F+.Decoction is quite specific wrt what gets "decocted".
One is advised to draw "the thickest part of the wort".
Hence it should be mostly grist, which should be a significant clue as to what the goal is...
Cheers!
It was a German brewer whose name was Earl Scheid who came up the method for a way to do a decoction with the system he had. Hence Earl'Sches. Zymurgy had a little article (like one of those small corner boxes) on it a few years back. I also think, for AHA members, here's the link to a 2022 seminar where they touched on it. See page 22 of the PDF. If I recall, they did not talk much about it in the audio link thought. Reaching the Boiling Point: Decoction at HomeWhat is the origin of the Earl'sches Decoction decoction method?
https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/homebrew-recipe/may-the-bock-be-with-you
https://beersmith.com/forum/index.php?threads/earlsches-decoction-profile-in-beersmith.21319
https://beersmith.com/forum/index.php?threads/earlsches-decoction-profile-in-beersmith.21320
Another method I have used is called the Earl'sche modified decoction schedule. With this method, you only add 50% of mash water and 60-70% of grain, do a 149 for 30, 162 for 30 step mash., then leaving the grain basket in, bring it to a boil and boil for 20. Then add the rest of the water, which needs to be cold, and rest of the grain...stir until the temp drops below 149. Then go through the two mash steps again and mash out (and sparge if you do, I don't) and then your normal boil.
Considering giving this a try but not sure it would work in my system. I have a 10 gallon BIAB system based on @Bobby_M 's Brewhardware design. Typical full volume mash for a 5 gallon batch uses ~8 gallons of water. It takes ~3 gallons to get the water level above the false bottom. For a ~1.048 beer I use 11-12 lbs of grain. So I'd be looking at 6 ish lbs of grain in about a gallon of water to start. Doesn't seem like a good idea. Thinking if I start with a bit more water AND a bit less grain that should work as long as I have enough water left over to get the temp back down.
Thoughts?
Yes, I believe, so that your original calculated 'after boil volume' is maintained the same volume which is the same volume as the 'in the fermenter volume.' I am not familiar with your Brewzilla equipment and calculation methods and so I hope my reply is clear in meaning.I would also need to add some additional strike water (not wort) to compensate for the false bottom loss?
False bottoms are not used in "regular" decoctions, why would you use one here. Things would be different if you were trying to boil the decoction where the heating element was in the grain (water heater type element) rather than under the grain.Was thinking of trying a single decoction this weekend on a Rothaus Pils clone. My main brew vessel is a 65L Brewzilla Gen 4, but I also have my old 3.1 35L that I have been just using for a HLT. Just trying to think this all through: if I use the 35L for boiling the decoction, would I use the malt pipe still or just the false bottom? Obviously concerned about scorching. I would also need to add some additional strike water (not wort) to compensate for the false bottom loss?
Not sure why you think this. Post 3 for starters is a fairly major brewer.Honestly though I dont think any major brewers aside some craft places even use this method anymore.