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converting a 110 outlet to 220

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Well yeah, but I just wasn't sure that code was the same for 240V circuits. I don't think I've ever actually laid eyes on a 240V circuit with multiple outlets.
That’s only because very few things use 240 in the US and not 120. Most things can use both. The only countertop appliances I can think of is an espresso machine or a European electric kettle.
 
Sure is. Every home has 15A or 20A branch circuits and 15 or 20A receptacles. Sometimes many of them.
Agreed. In my kitchen I had to have a minimum amount of receptacles per square foot of counter space. The amount of counter space also informed how many circuits I needed (two), which means I have about half a dozen outlets on each branch.
 
I don't think I've ever actually laid eyes on a 240V circuit with multiple outlets.
Yeah, in the US and Canada households anyway, 240V circuits are each typically a dedicated circuit for a large appliance e.g. electric stove, water heater, central AC, electric clothes dryer, etc.

While nothing, far as I can think off hand, precludes multiple receptacles on a 240V circuit, it's not common since it's not a great plan to have two or more of those large draw items on one circuit when they could try to run simultaneously.

On a circuit where you are fairly certain only one device will be used at any given time, no big deal. Like the example of multiple outlets in garage for welder. Fine there, but back to maybe not so much a great thing if you expect a couple welders to be going at same time like in a bigger shop.
 
You could have multiple welders being used from one circuit if everything in that string is sized properly for the total multiple loads.

There is more to that than simply having multiple receptacles on fat wires and a higher amp breaker. At a high level what you say is true but to accomplish it is not the same situation being questioned in the thread.
 
Depending on the OP’s resources, he may end up landing on the extension cord idea after getting a quote from the electrician for adding a circuit and a couple receptacles. I would not be surprised to see that exceed $1000.
 
There is more to that than simply having multiple receptacles on fat wires and a higher amp breaker. At a high level what you say is true but to accomplish it is not the same situation being questioned in the thread.
My comments were not meant to the OP, just a general response about multiple "welders".

I stated very early in the thread to the OP to contact an electrician as that was the safest route.
 
My comments were not meant to the OP, just a general response about multiple "welders".

I stated very early in the thread to the OP to contact an electrician as that was the safest route.

Fair enough, but the readership needs to be clear in that scenario there is a lot more to it than what was discussed re. the OP and similar situations.
 
I would not be surprised to see that exceed $1000.
For what it's evolved into, absolutely. Should have been well under when it was just relocating a single outlet on an exiting circuit.
I doubt the minimum charge is below $100 anywhere in the U.S.
I have gotten free estimates in both New Jersey and Virginia within the past year. Is that not a thing in some places anymore?
 
For what it's evolved into, absolutely. Should have been well under when it was just relocating a single outlet on an exiting circuit.

I have gotten free estimates in both New Jersey and Virginia within the past year. Is that not a thing in some places anymore?

While less that two new circuits for sure, I would expect relocating that one outlet to a different part of the house would be much similar in cost to a new circuit. Essentially all the same work, maybe more.

Far as estimates, I've seen charges for that to cut down the tire kickers. In some cases it may be applied to the job if you follow through to have the work done.

Can also be a case of rough estimate range off the cuff at no charge vs. an on-site review and formal quote.
 
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minimum work charge
A $100 minimum work charge is pretty much irrelevant for a job that's easily going to run over $500. Without a minimum people who can't do anything themselves would never be able to get an electrician to come to their house to replace a bad switch.
Essentially all the same work, maybe more.
Fishing the wire is the hardest part. :rolleyes: The actual skilled electrician work takes about 20 minutes. I had to get a contractor to move a dedicated 20A outlet in my brother's condo when we put in a new kitchen (the HOA basically doesn't allow you to DIY anything except paint and flooring). Cost was "only" $550, but they didn't replace the breaker, which I gotta say surprised me a little. A new circuit would have to comply with current code, right? Which means AFCI and GFCI pretty much anywhere in the house in NY. So the circuit breaker is going to run you over $200 all by itself.
 
A $100 minimum work charge is pretty much irrelevant for a job that's easily going to run over $500. Without a minimum people who can't do anything themselves would never be able to get an electrician to come to their house to replace a bad switch.

... A new circuit would have to comply with current code, right? Which means AFCI and GFCI pretty much anywhere in the house in NY. So the circuit breaker is going to run you over $200 all by itself.

A new circuit definitely is supposed to comply and it may even be such that moving the circuit demands compliance to current Code. Very likely either situation could require a permit too.

A lot of that can depend on the local Codes and the authority having jurisdiction (AHJ).
 
A new circuit definitely is supposed to comply and it may even be such that moving the circuit demands compliance to current Code. Very likely either situation could require a permit too.
Yeah, that's why I was surprised that they did not install a new AFCI/GFCI combo breaker. The extra couple hundred bucks would have pissed me off, but when you're putting in a new kitchen it's pretty insignificant. The contractor pulled the permit and the work was inspected and approved when completed. So I figure it must be compliant with whatever the local authority is currently enforcing. Original plan was to literally just move the receptacle keeping the existing wire since the new location shortened the run, but it turned out it was aluminum so they replaced it. I assumed that once they did that it became a new circuit and would have to comply with the 2020 NEC (work was completed before the 2023 was published), but apparently not.
 
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I'm not suggesting anyone does what I do, but when I built the controller for my electric BIAB, I designed it with two 1600W elements, driven by two SSRs, that are powered individually by a pair of 110V power cords which I plug in to two standard outlets on separate circuits. Gives me 3200W of boiling power without the need for any special outlets or wiring. I've brewed almost 100 batches on this setup over the past 5 years with absolutely zero problems. YMMV.
 
hi guys

happy thanksgiving , im still paying attention this is just beyond most of what i i need to do.
thanks for all the advice. it sounds like $500 for one outlet in the kitchen would not be that unreasonable.
 
I strongly suggest you get an electrician to help you understand what you have and what you want to do. It's fine to get suggestions here but if you're not sure it's best to have someone at your house to do it right. There's nothing worse than an electrical fire to ruin your brew day. Plus submitting an insurance claim the first thing they are going to ask is who did the wiring.
THIS!!!!!!!! I have not read thru the whole thread, but I think this is the soundest advice to be given. Unless you know what you are doing, and I mean really know, then I would not F%$# with it. The cost of a good electrician vs having to replace your house seems like a no brainer to me. But what do I know. Good luck
 
THIS!!!!!!!! I have not read thru the whole thread, but I think this is the soundest advice to be given. Unless you know what you are doing, and I mean really know, then I would not F%$# with it. The cost of a good electrician vs having to replace your house seems like a no brainer to me. But what do I know. Good luck

In terms of rewiring in the panel board, moving the outlet and such, yeah, stay out if you don't know what you are doing.

OTOH, making an extension cord is pretty inert.
 
How many amps is your service? Are there at least two blank slots in your panel? If you answer "200" and "yes" then it should be a fairly quick, easy and not terribly expensive job for any licensed electrical contractor. OTOH, if you answer "100" and "no" then you probably won't like hearing what a contractor tells you about installing a 220 volt 30 amp circuit.
They should work up a load schedule before telling you to upgrade a service.
 
Solved my issue today. I added a 30amp breaker and receptacle for the Brewzilla directly below my panel. This was my first time messing with the panel alone. I joined the electrical union about 4 months ago but the company I work for does low voltage communications/data work so this was a bit out of my wheelhouse.
 
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problem solved - thanks again everyone

😊
 
In terms of rewiring in the panel board, moving the outlet and such, yeah, stay out if you don't know what you are doing.

OTOH, making an extension cord is pretty inert.
"OTOH, making an extension cord is pretty inert" As long as you don't cross the Phase and Earth wires over!
 
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