Closed-system pressurized fermentation technique!

[chapusin]

You're fine. Next time adjust the pressure up slowly, there is plenty of time to get to 15psi. You also don't have to hit 15. 10 would be fine until you are ready to carbonate at the end during a d-rest or carbonation period.

You released fine, but you avoided what typically happens to me (see foam blowing everywhere during the purge) so you got lucky. It takes a while to saturate the beer with CO2 which is the worry with yeast health. Keep on truckin' my man! Let us know so we can brew vicariously through you, lol.

Yeah, I guess I wanted to get to 15 in a hurry, last brew I only made it to 10 after a few attempts at getting to know how my spunding valve works (it's labeled but 30 psi actually means 10 psi), then after a week when I tried to get to 30 for finishing carbonation I found that I had a stuck fermentation, 10 points above my goal. A little sweet but it still tasted great, I'm loving this technique, I could have drank the whole thing 1 week after I brewed it. No green flavor at all!

I'm brewing 15 gallons in a 22 gallon conical, my kraussen is a few inches below the spunding valve, I guess that's why I didn't get foam.

 

[grathan]

Can anyone recommend me a valve/gauge that has good precision. Ex: if I wanted 7 psi I could dial it in fairly quickly and If I wanted to bump it to 8 psi or even 30 psi it would be fairly easy and repeatable?

 

[haeffnkr]

Hello,
I am going to add a 6" tri clamp fitting to my sanke fermenters.

I am struggling with the best way to plumb up the gas and liquid side ports in the 6" tri clamp cap.
Do I use a racking cane and how to fasten it to the lid to hold pressure?
Do I try to use ball lock fittings for gas and liquid? Seems like yeast would make a mess if I tried this on the liquid side and would be pain to clean up afterwards?

Can I get some feedback from those who have done this and built tri clamp kits and what they would do over again?

thanks Kevin

 

[WortMonger]

Can anyone recommend me a valve/gauge that has good precision. Ex: if I wanted 7 psi I could dial it in fairly quickly and If I wanted to bump it to 8 psi or even 30 psi it would be fairly easy and repeatable?

Man I wish! The problem is that unless you were at the same temperature all the time it couldn't be repeatable with settings. Temperature and pressure are directly relative to each other. Now if you could have a valve that measured both at the same time, then you would have something... but it wouldn't be cheap. It is best to get to know your system and the settings that are on your valve. I always shoot low on fermentation and then bump up. Then on the carbonation cycle I shoot high and bump down. Then all you have to read is the gauge and the thermometer.

Hello,
I am going to add a 6" tri clamp fitting to my sanke fermenters.

I am struggling with the best way to plumb up the gas and liquid side ports in the 6" tri clamp cap.
Do I use a racking cane and how to fasten it to the lid to hold pressure?
Do I try to use ball lock fittings for gas and liquid? Seems like yeast would make a mess if I tried this on the liquid side and would be pain to clean up afterwards?

Can I get some feedback from those who have done this and built tri clamp kits and what they would do over again?

thanks Kevin

This would probably be best for someone else to answer since I don't see the need for anything but standard keg equipment. I will say that I am looking to swap the standard tap connector for a keg-cleaning connector, due to the larger diameter hole on what would be the gas port.

 

[WortMonger]

Yeah, I guess I wanted to get to 15 in a hurry, last brew I only made it to 10 after a few attempts at getting to know how my spunding valve works (it's labeled but 30 psi actually means 10 psi), then after a week when I tried to get to 30 for finishing carbonation I found that I had a stuck fermentation, 10 points above my goal. A little sweet but it still tasted great, I'm loving this technique, I could have drank the whole thing 1 week after I brewed it. No green flavor at all!

I'm brewing 15 gallons in a 22 gallon conical, my kraussen is a few inches below the spunding valve, I guess that's why I didn't get foam.

What brand conical? I ask because I hope it is one of the pressuriz-able ones:cross:! Otherwise it could be leaking at higher pressures or worse, hold the pressure until it can't hold any more and BOOM!

 

[haeffnkr]

.
This would probably be best for someone else to answer since I don't see the need for anything but standard keg equipment. I will say that I am looking to swap the standard tap connector for a keg-cleaning connector, due to the larger diameter hole on what would be the gas port.

I want to swap to a tri clamp setup because I am still struggling with getting the kegs clean.

I tried last night heating up about 4 gallons of water to 205 degrees with about 8 oz of PBW in it and pouring it in the keg, then adding the spear and rolling it around setting upside down overnight.
If when I look at it tonight and there is still crud in there I am at a loss, other than getting my hand in the keg, to get these clean... ie 6" tri clamp.

Believe me... if I would not have to add the $200 of expense to put on the tri clamp and assorted fittings I would/will not

more to come
Kevin

 

[crane]

I want to swap to a tri clamp setup because I am still struggling with getting the kegs clean.

I tried last night heating up about 4 gallons of water to 205 degrees with about 8 oz of PBW in it and pouring it in the keg, then adding the spear and rolling it around setting upside down overnight.
If when I look at it tonight and there is still crud in there I am at a loss, other than getting my hand in the keg, to get these clean... ie 6" tri clamp.

Believe me... if I would not have to add the $200 of expense to put on the tri clamp and assorted fittings I would/will not

more to come
Kevin

Have you considered building a keg washer with a sump pump, 5 gallon bucket, and some plumbing? Mine works great. There are a number of threads on here for keg washers

 

[ekjohns]

or use one of the drill operated brushes so you can actually get a scrubbing action

 

[haeffnkr]

I have used both of the approaches... is not getting all the crud off.
I have some old crud on some of these sankes that is on tough.

My keg washer did not even get all the crud off a fresh corny keg.
Apparently you need a BIG motor to make these effective.
Mine does no more than my sink spray faucet.

thanks for the ideas though !
Keep them coming.

Kevin

 

[grathan]

Man I wish! The problem is that unless you were at the same temperature all the time it couldn't be repeatable with settings. Temperature and pressure are directly relative to each other. Now if you could have a valve that measured both at the same time, then you would have something... but it wouldn't be cheap. It is best to get to know your system and the settings that are on your valve. I always shoot low on fermentation and then bump up. Then on the carbonation cycle I shoot high and bump down. Then all you have to read is the gauge and the thermometer.

What about temperature aside. I know you were recommending a specific gauge earlier on, but the link doesn't work anymore. Do you still like that one and know of another one like it?

 

[acidrain]

I have used both of the approaches... is not getting all the crud off.
I have some old crud on some of these sankes that is on tough.

My keg washer did not even get all the crud off a fresh corny keg.
Apparently you need a BIG motor to make these effective.
Mine does no more than my sink spray faucet.

thanks for the ideas though !
Keep them coming.

Kevin

Have you tried a pressure washer? Lye?
If none of those work, bail on that keg and get a new one. Once you have a good clean keg, clean it immediately after each use and it will be very easy to clean.
I use a 2' TC cap drilled and tapped to accept a compression coupler for the racking cane and a NPT to accept a T which has a Gas-in post and an adjustable PRV.
Works great, and I would not change a thing.

 

[haeffnkr]

Have you tried a pressure washer? Lye?
If none of those work, bail on that keg and get a new one. Once you have a good clean keg, clean it immediately after each use and it will be very easy to clean.
I use a 2' TC cap drilled and tapped to accept a compression coupler for the racking cane and a NPT to accept a T which has a Gas-in post and an adjustable PRV.
Works great, and I would not change a thing.

I dont have a pressure washer.
I tried drain cleaner which had a lot of lye in it and it did not get this on spot.
I might build some kind of wand to blast high pressure city water up under the lid?

I have this one keg that apparently was never completely clean from when I opened it up months ago and still had 20 year old crud in it.
It has this one spot up under the top that is like some kind of tarnish/corosion/crud stuff, not like normal Krausen.
So last night after finding out that an over night soak in near boiling PBW did not get it all off... I started scrubbing it with my carboy brush and kept sprinkling Bar Keepers Friend on it... and the crud started to come off... so it is soaking again in a weak solution of water and BKF and I will scrub it some more.

Yes... you are right... cleaning the kegs soon as you are done is the key.

thanks Kevin

 

[pickles]

It sounds like beer stone, you won't get that off without acid. In fact I've read that a combination of certain cleaners can set the beer stone even more.

 

[BridgesideBrewing]

I dont have a pressure washer.
I tried drain cleaner which had a lot of lye in it and it did not get this on spot.
I might build some kind of wand to blast high pressure city water up under the lid?

I have this one keg that apparently was never completely clean from when I opened it up months ago and still had 20 year old crud in it.
It has this one spot up under the top that is like some kind of tarnish/corosion/crud stuff, not like normal Krausen.
So last night after finding out that an over night soak in near boiling PBW did not get it all off... I started scrubbing it with my carboy brush and kept sprinkling Bar Keepers Friend on it... and the crud started to come off... so it is soaking again in a weak solution of water and BKF and I will scrub it some more.

Yes... you are right... cleaning the kegs soon as you are done is the key.

thanks Kevin

If you've done that much to it, what exactly are you afraid of?

Get your brew on man.

 

[WortMonger]

What about temperature aside. I know you were recommending a specific gauge earlier on, but the link doesn't work anymore. Do you still like that one and know of another one like it?

All the gauges work the same, like a garden hose faucet. That is why they are hard to adjust to a specific pressure because you could always be as little as a turn to much or a turn to less.

The only way to have a set feature would be a manifold with valves going to separate "known" pressure reliefs. That makes it way to much for something so easy. If you open yours up all the way and start slowly closing it once you smell the gas coming out, I don't see why you can't get it to +_ a couple psi from where you want to be during out gassing.


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[haeffnkr]

If you've done that much to it, what exactly are you afraid of?

Get your brew on man.

I am afraid of dumping another 10 gallon batch because of an infection.
If I can still see crud...I am not going to use it.

Does beer stone cause infections?

Thanks Kevin

 

[WortMonger]

Usually, beer stone forms on the bottom of the keg. It does form other places if not taken care of, but I believe he's got crud from the top that is stuck on. Know that I think about it, I'd get playground sand and some marbles mixed with some of the cleaners he's tried and then roll the keg. That should scrub it real good!


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[grathan]

All the gauges work the same, like a garden hose faucet. That is why they are hard to adjust to a specific pressure because you could always be as little as a turn to much or a turn to less.

The only way to have a set feature would be a manifold with valves going to separate "known" pressure reliefs. That makes it way to much for something so easy. If you open yours up all the way and start slowly closing it once you smell the gas coming out, I don't see why you can't get it to +_ a couple psi from where you want to be during out gassing.


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interesting, I think I could get by with just 2 valves.

 

[Stehag]

Now it is time for me to try.

The fridge that I use is a garden version to chill bottles of beer or soda in, so I welded a form of conical fermenter and use the connectors and lid from a Cornelius keg. I also welded a 1/4 "connection to the adjustable valve.

One connector for gas, one for yeast and one for the beer.
So far, everything works as it should!

I also try to brew a stronger beer when I'm at it. I'll dilute it with sparkling water when I bottle it. From 6.2% ABV to 4.2% ABV

I brew a Lager, why make something easy? Actually, I built the fermenter to brew as I usually do, but then I found this thread and had to try it.

Wish me luck

 

[pickles]

That's is frickin cool! Show us some pics of the build!

 

[haeffnkr]

That's is frickin cool! Show us some pics of the build!

+1

And please include the "garden cooler" you have there.... how does that work?
Ice?

thanks Kevin

 

[Stehag]

Sorry I have no pics from the build.
Not more than this

I testing to have a plastic cone in the bottom so the yeast can be easy collected.
The volym of the fermenter is 30L (8gal)

It´s a Party Cooler. 50L compressor cooler. I found one like mine here http://www.grandpanda.com/
It is adjustable from 0 °C to 16 °C (32°F - 60°F)

 

[Tegra]

Here is my transfer technique....

- Uses half the CO2 of the pressure valve technique
- Set and walk away - finishes on its own
- Works best with "Trub Trap" in ferment keg
- Lift the ferment keg or lower the serve keg
- About 45 minutes with 12 foot lines

It is not quick but is neat, predictable and lets me disappear to do something else for an hour without worrying about missing a step. As I ferment two kegs at once, I can do this while I am brewing the next batch and still relax.

I use 12 foot lines and keep the ferment keg in the chest fermenter. This is all on the back deck, so I put the serving keg a few steps down on ground level. If I didn't have the stairs I would put the serving keg in it final resting place in the kegerator and gently lift the ferment keg to a small platform.

I use a long CO2 line from the kegerator to reach both kegs or a short one from my "paintball" mini-tank.

Tom

 

[WortMonger]

Yep, this transferring method is ideal if you have the setup.

 

[jimyson]

Time to join the club.




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[acidrain]

Time to join the club.

Welcome!

 

[jimyson]

Thanks!

The only thing I am trying to wrap my head around is the best schedule for pressure for an Ale. I see some doing 5 psi for the fir 50% att, some at 10 psi, etc. What's the common approach that people are using?

 

[WortMonger]

It's up to you but I would stick with about 10 and then when you are almost done go up to your carbonation pressure at what temperature you are at.


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[jimyson]

Makes perfect sense. Thanks again for the awesome thread.

 

[fc36]

Subbed...This is amazing and I've only read the firs 30 posts or so. Great idea even though I'm a few years behind the curve.