Barão
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false bottom well attached...it's even difficult to remove after using the machine
Brewzilla Gen4 Discussion/Tips Talk
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Pan_Kotsky
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How is your pump plumbed? Maybe snap some pics and post here (pump, false bottom, crush size etc.)? In over a dozen of batches I never experienced clogs like that.
agentbud
Well-Known Member
Me neither. Maybe a little slow to drain through the grain basket when using flaked stuff but never a clog in the pump or tap.
Sorry everyone if this has been answered. I've read most of the 35 pages, but I might have missed this.
I'm curious what the max OG of a 11-12 gallon, no sparge batch in a Gen4 65L? It looks like from the information that I can find that I should be able to get in the mid 1.040s, but if anyone has direct experience, I would really appreciate it.
Thanks!
I'm curious what the max OG of a 11-12 gallon, no sparge batch in a Gen4 65L? It looks like from the information that I can find that I should be able to get in the mid 1.040s, but if anyone has direct experience, I would really appreciate it.
Thanks!
Disclaimer
65L claims 41.5lbs capacity. Assuming 37lbs is a comfortable number (no evidence, just assuming the max is optimistic), 70% efficiency, 35ppg grain bill:
37*35*0.7/12 = 75.5
So I would expect the 65L to top 1.070 OG readily for a 12 gallon batch.
edit: for no sparge, if efficiency is 60%, you'd still be over 1.060
edit2: oh, is the issue vessel volume when grain competes for space? I don't have math for that. Looking around, it sounds like crush matters. Some sources say 0.36qt/lb, but I don't know if that includes the 0.125qt/lb lost water.
edit3: more reading says that's a wet volume, so, if the 67qt vessel can be filled to 60qt (?? pipe holes may wreck this), 12 gallons of pre-boil wort leaves space for 33lbs of grain, or 1.058 at 60% efficiency.
I still think 1.050 is totally reasonable.
Disclaimer: I have the 35L. ymmv.
65L claims 41.5lbs capacity. Assuming 37lbs is a comfortable number (no evidence, just assuming the max is optimistic), 70% efficiency, 35ppg grain bill:
37*35*0.7/12 = 75.5
So I would expect the 65L to top 1.070 OG readily for a 12 gallon batch.
edit: for no sparge, if efficiency is 60%, you'd still be over 1.060
edit2: oh, is the issue vessel volume when grain competes for space? I don't have math for that. Looking around, it sounds like crush matters. Some sources say 0.36qt/lb, but I don't know if that includes the 0.125qt/lb lost water.
edit3: more reading says that's a wet volume, so, if the 67qt vessel can be filled to 60qt (?? pipe holes may wreck this), 12 gallons of pre-boil wort leaves space for 33lbs of grain, or 1.058 at 60% efficiency.
I still think 1.050 is totally reasonable.
Last edited:
DuncB
Well-Known Member
I reckon you'll get much lower efficiency than 70%
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I had to make this repair recently. It did look like bad termination. The melt pattern on the C14 connector was the same on the front and the back, so it was hard to say which side had the bad connection. With enough tugging I was able to get the cord out, but both the cord and the socket were a lost cause. When installing the new panel connector I carefully tightened up the wire disconnect terminals with pliers before pushing them onto the back tabs. One brew in, no problems. Fingers crossed.
(Trying to double-check if I had the right name for the connectors, I bumped into another of life's mysteries - why is a connector that looks like a fork called a spade connector, which then apparently relegates connectors that looks like spades to being called disconnect terminals.
)erikn68
Member
I am thinking of getting the gen4 65 L. But I would like to know the quality of the pump. Since it has set sports to connect underneath, I don't think I can use my current pump. I currently have the stainless steel riptide.
Any comment would be nice.
Any comment would be nice.
I have the 35L - pump works great, and has not clogged with over 25 batches logged.
I do use the bottom plate add-on which did wonders as a hop catcher. Previously I used a hop spider, but no more ... Just toss them into the boil... At 10 minutes left I whirlfloc (1 tablet) and whirlpool. The HED (heat exchanger disc) is awesome and whirlpooling really helps. There's much less likelihood of clogging is you ensure more of the debris is caught before it has a chance to clog.
Make sure you get the HED for the bottom and the whirlpool arm. Both of those accessories made a huge difference for me. I use the 35L and had no issues with clogging after getting the HED (heat exchanger disk) and the whirlpool arm.
The 35L uses a 1/2" ID silicone tubing to connect everything. If you remove the spigot (and add a grommet/bushing!) you coud get at least one tube out, maybe a return in. (Second tube most likely requires punching another hole in the sheet metal.)
The integrated pump is tiny - if you're similar expecting your gpm/head vs a riptide, you'll be disappointed.
Not sure if Kegland is watching this or not, but I am looking for a synopsis of software updates that the machine auto downloads.
The reason why I ask is that I went to brew two days ago, and the 65L Gen4 downloaded an update. Following this update, the way the PID worked changed and significant P value tinkering was needed to make mash step jumps. I brew every two weeks, so I know how the previous setup was working, and it was stable & effective before this update.
It would be nice to get a heads-up on updates and what they are affecting.
The reason why I ask is that I went to brew two days ago, and the 65L Gen4 downloaded an update. Following this update, the way the PID worked changed and significant P value tinkering was needed to make mash step jumps. I brew every two weeks, so I know how the previous setup was working, and it was stable & effective before this update.
It would be nice to get a heads-up on updates and what they are affecting.
Thanks everyone for this thread. I just ordered a 110V 35L Gen 4 and while waiting for it to arrive, read through the entire 35 pages!
I'm excited to start calibrating it. Sounds like there have been some significant improvements from the original release and I do like that KegLand continues to engage and innovate.
I look forward to sharing my experience as well. Cheers!
I'm excited to start calibrating it. Sounds like there have been some significant improvements from the original release and I do like that KegLand continues to engage and innovate.
I look forward to sharing my experience as well. Cheers!
DuncB
Well-Known Member
15 pages here for you to read whilst you wait.
https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/brewzilla-gen-4-advice-and-experiences.103328/
Well, it arrived! And I already have a leak right out of the box. I bought my model from More Beer and I was surprised to see it came with the sight glass, which I thought was optional. When I run the pump and use the ball valve to control any flow, I get a leak out of the top of the sight glass, probably because of the back pressure. But from my understanding, I will need to control the flow using this valve all throughout the brew days, so I can't just have wort constantly leaking on me. Anyone else have this issue? It looks like a plastic compression fit for the sight glass, so maybe try and take it out and try and wrap some teflon tape on it to create better compression?
I thought the sight glass was a gen 3-only thing. I do see references to gen 3 & 4 sight glass on the KegLand website, though. Are you sure you got a gen 4?
I mean everything else about is it Gen 4. Upper controller, wifi, Bluetooth, etc. Box says Gen 4.
Edit to add: I took it apart and it's a completely dry fit. Should there be an O ring in there? I might go and try and buy one to fit. That should most likely solve the issue.
Sight glass is now standard on the Gen 4.1. I recently got a 65L and it came with the sight glass and an upgraded (25W) pump.
Nevermind. I fixed it. I took apart the insert that was screwed into the ball valve and put some teflon tape on the threads. Looks like the leak was coming through that part. All good now, looking forward to my first brew!
razzzzer
New Member
The gen 4 I bought doesn't have the half way feet... trying to find out if there is a diy way to add them?
They don't come on the US models?
Thanks
They don't come on the US models?
Thanks
DuncB
Well-Known Member
If you have a 35litre brewzilla it's not really a big deal lifting it all up as it's not that heavy.
Or you could rig up a pulley system and then pull it any amount you want.
Someone was talking about some stainless hardware, and I thought there waas a photo but I couldn't find it.
- Definitely stick to stainless steel.
- Probably need washers to ensure bilt heads don't pull out. Can trim bolts and just let the weight sheer on them, or use brackets (better but harder to trim)
- Probably need to disassemble and clean regularly.
Brewed my first batch today on the gen 4 35L and I was happy until...
1. Mash went fine, I mashed in around 1.65 qt/lb and I didn't experience any stuck mash or sparge. Hit my pH and pre-boil gravity perfectly.
2. Boil went fine. I did not recirculate during the boil since I'm worried that it could be bad for the pump long term. Kegland says their pumps are rated for 121 deg C
3. After the boil, I put the whirlpool arm on, where I ran into an issue. The hop matter plugged the pump during the boil or at least when I turned the pump on. I couldn't even drain because I didn't re-plumb the T joint like some recommend (I will do that for my next batch). So I had to scoop out the wort with a pitcher into a bucket. I turned the unit upside down, and I had to disassemble the pump head to clear out all of the hop trub. Once I did that, I poured the wort back in and it worked fine.
4. Whirlpooled and chilled fine.
Overall, I'm pretty annoyed that the pump clogged just from the hop trub. I had maybe 3 oz of total hops in the boil. When I took apart the pump I realized how small the openings are into the impeller. I guess I either need to use the hop spider or recirculate during the boil to prevent the hops from accumulating. It looks like my pump protective cover doesn't stop much of the hop trub. I guess this is why kegland recommends you pump during the whole brewing process, to avoid any clogs.
So any advice? Have others had the same thing happen? I don't like using the spider, but I could always just increase my hops by about 5% to account for loss of utilization.
1. Mash went fine, I mashed in around 1.65 qt/lb and I didn't experience any stuck mash or sparge. Hit my pH and pre-boil gravity perfectly.
2. Boil went fine. I did not recirculate during the boil since I'm worried that it could be bad for the pump long term. Kegland says their pumps are rated for 121 deg C
3. After the boil, I put the whirlpool arm on, where I ran into an issue. The hop matter plugged the pump during the boil or at least when I turned the pump on. I couldn't even drain because I didn't re-plumb the T joint like some recommend (I will do that for my next batch). So I had to scoop out the wort with a pitcher into a bucket. I turned the unit upside down, and I had to disassemble the pump head to clear out all of the hop trub. Once I did that, I poured the wort back in and it worked fine.
4. Whirlpooled and chilled fine.
Overall, I'm pretty annoyed that the pump clogged just from the hop trub. I had maybe 3 oz of total hops in the boil. When I took apart the pump I realized how small the openings are into the impeller. I guess I either need to use the hop spider or recirculate during the boil to prevent the hops from accumulating. It looks like my pump protective cover doesn't stop much of the hop trub. I guess this is why kegland recommends you pump during the whole brewing process, to avoid any clogs.
So any advice? Have others had the same thing happen? I don't like using the spider, but I could always just increase my hops by about 5% to account for loss of utilization.
1) Do you use the HED (heat exchanger disk) - makes a big difference in catching hops.
2) did you use a whirlfloc tablet? Helps with clumping and this might also help.
3) lots of times ... If you turn the pump off, and then on. (Repeat if needed a few times). Many times it unclogs itself.
Hope this helps.
razzman
Member
If I get a clogged pump post boil I refit the recirculation arm and blow down the silicone tubing, it clears straight away.
Yes to the HED and Whirlfloc. I tried to blow through the tubing as well with no luck. When I took the pump apart it had dried hop matter, so I wonder if when I turned the pump on I got a burst of hot air that dried out the trub? I just want to know how to avoid it. I could just run the pump during the boil.
Were the hops bagged?
121C is above boiling; the pump is rated food grade for use during the boil.
121C is above boiling; the pump is rated food grade for use during the boil.
I run the pump to recirc during the boil - helps to keep the temp more constant for a more uniform boil.
When you whirlpool - what's your method and timing? I whirlpool for 10-15 min. while reducing boil temp to 170°F. Then begin cooling and shut off the whirlpool for 15 min to let it settle.
I'll try that nest time. I also do the same whirlpool method you described. Whirlpool for late hop addition for 10 - 20 minutes. But I use a counterflow chiller so I don't wait for anything to settle since I need to pump to chill anyways.
hungupdown
Well-Known Member
If blowing out a clog, post boil. I'd then boil and recirculate, for another 10 minutes, to sterilise again.
I no longer get this problem, since using a large SS hop spider. With recirculation through it for whole boil time, to make sure hops are well utilised.
But as little as little of 20g of hop pellets, at start of boil, can clog the spider - causing overflow if max flow continued. With reduced flow, the small amount of escaped hops has never caused a clog (using heat exchanger disc).
I sometimes wonder if it might be better, to add hops to main vessel (slowly), while recircilulating via the hop spider. A large proportion, would settle on the false bottom and HED. And those recirculated would end in spider.
Just wish cone hops, of more varities, were available.
I no longer get this problem, since using a large SS hop spider. With recirculation through it for whole boil time, to make sure hops are well utilised.
But as little as little of 20g of hop pellets, at start of boil, can clog the spider - causing overflow if max flow continued. With reduced flow, the small amount of escaped hops has never caused a clog (using heat exchanger disc).
I sometimes wonder if it might be better, to add hops to main vessel (slowly), while recircilulating via the hop spider. A large proportion, would settle on the false bottom and HED. And those recirculated would end in spider.
Just wish cone hops, of more varities, were available.
hungupdown
Well-Known Member
An IEC C13 is rated 15 amps. At 120V, that's 1500W.
Not sure, but believe the US model has 1000W and 500W elements. So the connector is run at it's maximum rating. Never a good idea.
The G4 35l 230V version, has 1900W and 500W elements. Total 2400W, or about 10.4A at 230V, which is reasonably underrun. But I've still heard of failures!
Overheating will just be due to high contact resistance. At 15Amp, just 1 Ohm resistance will produce 15W, which is too much for these connectors to dissipate, without melting.
A little liquid on the connector contacts, in itself, wouldn't cause overheating. But might lead to corrosion, leading to increased resistance. Squirting silicone spray (or even WD40) on the connectors, might help, by repelling moisture.
Best bet, is to remove and re-insert the connector, a couple of times before each brew. The 'wiping' action will clean the contacts.
If the connector ever feels hot, try cleaning BZ pins and cable sockets using a needle file - with the cable unplugged!
I use a “brew in the bag”, bag for my hops, with the recirculation pipe in the bag. This has the added advantage of filtering all the way through the boil and there is very little trub to go into the fermenter.
theredviper
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I had to make this repair recently. It did look like bad termination. The melt pattern on the C14 connector was the same on the front and the back, so it was hard to say which side had the bad connection. With enough tugging I was able to get the cord out, but both the cord and the socket were a lost cause. When installing the new panel connector I carefully tightened up the wire disconnect terminals with pliers before pushing them onto the back tabs. One brew in, no problems. Fingers crossed.
(Trying to double-check if I had the right name for the connectors, I bumped into another of life's mysteries - why is a connector that looks like a fork called a spade connector, which then apparently relegates connectors that looks like spades to being called disconnect terminals.
I'm a few brews into my own replacement and the connection is cooler than ever. Seems like a bit of a defect from the factory that hopefully is sorted out now. I got the Gen4 as soon as it was available in my country.
theredviper
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Yeah I have done this too. Never had a problem when I was using rice hulls but ran out and now occasionally I get this behavior.
rtstrider
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Well I've had the replacement Gen 4 for around a month. The pump seized during brew day. I will say there were quite a few exquisite vocabulary expanders used at the end of that session but the batch is fermenting now. I did take the head cover off the pump and verified the impeller is seized. It's the weirdest thing though. It spins free at mash temps. When it gets to boil temps the impeller stops working. I initially thought this might be cavitation so I further tested via draining the Brewzilla, removing the plastic cover, and watching the impeller. I even tried to kick start it for giggles and it was still a no go. When the temps lower back to room temp the pump works again no issue. Really odd! Anywho I'll be reaching back out to the vendor to see if they want to try a replacement pump or another full unit swap out. I'm game for either 
theredviper
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Well I've had the replacement Gen 4 for around a month. The pump seized during brew day. I will say there were quite a few exquisite vocabulary expanders used at the end of that session but the batch is fermenting now. I did take the head cover off the pump and verified the impeller is seized. It's the weirdest thing though. It spins free at mash temps. When it gets to boil temps the impeller stops working. I initially thought this might be cavitation so I further tested via draining the Brewzilla, removing the plastic cover, and watching the impeller. I even tried to kick start it for giggles and it was still a no go. When the temps lower back to room temp the pump works again no issue. Really odd! Anywho I'll be reaching back out to the vendor to see if they want to try a replacement pump or another full unit swap out. I'm game for either
That's a bit weird. Maybe part of the reason they upgraded the pump for the Gen 4.1? Anybody know if you can put that pump in a 4.0?
rtstrider
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Definitely! I didn't have issues with the pump in the unit prior to this one. Morebeer is shipping a full Brewzilla replacement so will be running this through it's paces as I have a brew day lined up this weekend
If you have a "dead" unit, maybe you can swap pumps?Definitely! I didn't have issues with the pump in the unit prior to this one. Morebeer is shipping a full Brewzilla replacement so will be running this through it's paces as I have a brew day lined up this weekend
Did you get a replacement and are getting a second replacement? (#1395 says you've had it, #1397 says they're shipping one?)
rtstrider
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I had the initial unit for almost 2 years but the plugs were burning out and eventually it fried the ribbon cable. I got really lucky and Morebeer shipped a replacement unit around a month ago. It worked without a hitch until last week. The pump would work at mash temps but not at boil temps. At first I thought it might be cavitation. From there I ran a plain water batch and same thing it cut out at the boil. So I drained the unit, took the pump head off, and the impeller was seized at those high temps. Morebeer has shipped another replacement unit that should be here tomorrow.
tldr I will be on the third Brewzilla unit tomorrow
Well dang, that's customer service for you.
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