Brewzilla Gen4 Discussion/Tips Talk

[Willy]

Brewing as I type this... Using a BIAB inside malt pipe. I tie up the bag and loop the string around the top so nothing is coming out the top. Then, lay it flat on top of the mash and the put the top plate on that.

Once every 15 min.... I will pull out the bag and "fluff" it to ensure I am getting all (or most) the sugars released. So far so good... No stray grains .

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

Anyone know what the two rings here are for? Lifting the filter during mash to give a stir is my guess. Strange they make no mention of it...

https://www.kegland.com.au/products...-malt-pipe-probe-hole#pdp-description-section

 

[Willy]

Not sure but I think it just makes it easier to remove, even when it is hot

 

[micraftbeer]

I also assume it's just to grab onto when removing. Whether that's too school out the grain and clean, or lift and stir the mash if that's your thing. The holes in those tabs seemed like a simple modification to snag it so you didn't have to stick your fingers down in hot wort - use some sort of stainless hook, etc.

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

I got my BrewZilla so happy days. My supplier doesn't stock the Heat Exchanger Dish so went to AliExpress to get it.

Just noticed then that virtually every spare part for the BrewZilla is listed there. That's a huge advantage imo.

My only gripe so far is not being able to import recipes/profiles from Brewfather or just any beer XML or JSON in general. It's supposedly in the works but I haven't seen much movement on their gitbucket for this issue.

But it's not a massive deal. Once you set up a profile on the Rapt portal you can clone and adjust as needed, and then send it to your BrewZilla.

Does anyone know of any reason the default plumbing doesn't go to tap and then pump instead of pump and then tap?

 

[Barão]

Brewing as I type this... Using a BIAB inside malt pipe. I tie up the bag and loop the string around the top so nothing is coming out the top. Then, lay it flat on top of the mash and the put the top plate on that.

Once every 15 min.... I will pull out the bag and "fluff" it to ensure I am getting all (or most) the sugars released. So far so good... No stray grains .

Do you do recirculation? Do you sparge?

 

[Willy]

Do you do recirculation? Do you sparge?

Yes to both. I run a slow recirculate (about 1/3-1/2 open valve) during mash and I also sparge a few gallons (170°) with the mash pipe partially removed

 

[Willy]

Thank you- I felt like I was crazy with everybody else telling me that the liquid couldn't come out of the sides......because it sure did, even as I was lifting it up to get on the 'feet'. It wasn't a lot, but it was enough for me to not to want to pour more liquid into it, unless I poured right now the middle and that really wasn't going to be very efficient. I was very disappointed that the easier lifting and the sparging was impacting by removing those middle feet. I probably will have to rig up a pulley, but I have an old house with a drop ceiling so it won't be all that easy. Even with only 10 pounds of grain, the first part of lifting the grainbasket up was not super easy but the last few inches were really tough as its up over my neck level when lifting the handle.

I wish there was an option to get the older version of the malt pipe, but I understand why. It's still annoying though!

Just finished mashing with Gen 4, no extra feet to half pull out.

I tried this and it worked today. Have to be repeatable .. but so far ... 1 for 1. Success!!!

I used a BIAB inside the malt pipe. I made a curved piece of heavy gauge wire (a circle shape) to hold the bag to the edges at the bottom of the pipe. Then I carefully cinched the top of the bag so that the string was tightened and locked under the lip of the pipe. Then I straightened it out to get as few wrinkles as possible.

All set. Hit strike temp and added grain. I did not use the top sieve plate since it is very tight and wants to rip the mash bag

Anyway... Success. No leaks out the side when pulling the mash pipe or sparging.

 

[mashdar]

Just finished mashing with Gen 4, no extra feet to half pull out.

I tried this and it worked today. Have to be repeatable .. but so far ... 1 for 1. Success!!!

I used a BIAB inside the malt pipe. I made a curved piece of heavy gauge wire (a circle shape) to hold the bag to the edges at the bottom of the pipe. Then I carefully cinched the top of the bag so that the string was tightened and locked under the lip of the pipe. Then I straightened it out to get as few wrinkles as possible.

All set. Hit strike temp and added grain. I did not use the top sieve plate since it is very tight and wants to rip the mash bag

Anyway... Success. No leaks out the side when pulling the mash pipe or sparging.

Sparge or no sparge?

 

[Willy]

Sparge or no sparge?

I sparged about 3 gal of 170°F water .... Grain bed held firm, no leaks.

I also reduced mash water to about 93% of recommended level.

Recirculation during mash? Yes

 

[theredviper]

I have done about 50 brews on my 35L Gen4. Only once did I have water shoot out the side of the mesh, and that was partly because the mesh bottom wasn't seated properly.

Thankfully mine has the second set of feet so I use that to let it drain for a few minutes. However I sparge with it at the top, and never seem to have a problem there either.

My brews are also on the smaller side, I aim for 18-19L wort to ferment in corny kegs, grain bill around 10-12lbs.

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

Anyone have any tips on stretching out the neoprene jacket to make it fit?
Do I need to let it relax after unboxing maybe?

 

[theredviper]

Anyone have any tips on stretching out the neoprene jacket to make it fit?
Do I need to let it relax after unboxing maybe?

I have the same issue, it's annoying. One of those things that feels like they didn't even test it. Make it 1 inch longer...

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

I have the same issue, it's annoying. One of those things that feels like they didn't even test it. Make it 1 inch longer...

... that's what she said

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

I have the same issue, it's annoying. One of those things that feels like they didn't even test it. Make it 1 inch longer...

I understand it needs to be a tight fit but this is ridiculous

 

[Willy]

Anyone have any tips on stretching out the neoprene jacket to make it fit?
Do I need to let it relax after unboxing maybe?

As you begin the wrapping ... First get all the "holes" filled with pieces on the brewzilla. By this I mean... Find the spots that fit thru the holes on the jacket and get it all lined up.

Once that is done... You will get that extra inch to lock it down.

 

[theredviper]

As you begin the wrapping ... First get all the "holes" filled with pieces on the brewzilla. By this I mean... Find the spots that fit thru the holes on the jacket and get it all lined up.

Once that is done... You will get that extra inch to lock it down.

That doesn't work for me at all. I've used it maybe 5 times so far. No way I can get it properly secured around the re-circ pipe and attached to itself. Usually it barely holds on and the re-circ pipe isn't really covered.

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

As you begin the wrapping ... First get all the "holes" filled with pieces on the brewzilla. By this I mean... Find the spots that fit thru the holes on the jacket and get it all lined up.

Once that is done... You will get that extra inch to lock it down.

There is only one hole for the bottom handle afaik

 

[Willy]

There is only one hole for the bottom handle afa exe ext exe

There is only one hole for the bottom handle afaik

Yup, near the power cord. My wrap has a piece that goes under the recirc arm, and the piece that flaps over the recirc pipe and velcroes shut. Yeah, it was a little tight, but not too tough to do. I wrapped it outside when it was pretty warm (80+°F) - maybe that is the variable that makes it easier.

 

[Kris.J]

I wrapped mine in winter, when we had a raging fire going in the wood stove. I was frustrated at first, but then set the BZ & hung the jacket on a wire rack next to the stove for an hour. Laid it down on its side and worked it on - it was much easier when everything was nice and toasty warm.

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

TIL physics doesn't care if you've switched off the pump. The CFC below the water line will siphon on.

Thankfully I remembered Physics 101 while configuring the PID and washing my gear.

*No beer was harmed in the making of this PSA*

 

[Redhouse Brewing]

I use a long velcro strap (hook and loop) on mine.

 

[Starkers]

I use a long velcro strap (hook and loop) on mine.

My solution also.

 

[garm]

Does anyone have a good way to whirlpool the solids and not have them get sucked into the pump?

I use a hop spider and recirculate into it during the boil, so big chunks get caught, but small bits of hot break and hops make my previously clear wort cloudy and I find the bottom drain design prevents a whirlpool from being effective. I've got the whirlpool arm for it.

Seems like a tradeoff with this gen4 design that I don't think is fixable.

 

[mashdar]

Does anyone have a good way to whirlpool the solids and not have them get sucked into the pump?

I use a hop spider and recirculate into it during the boil, so big chunks get caught, but small bits of hot break and hops make my previously clear wort cloudy and I find the bottom drain design prevents a whirlpool from being effective. I've got the whirlpool arm for it.

Seems like a tradeoff with this gen4 design that I don't think is fixable.

I've been wondering if the HED serves as a whirlpool collector at all. Vanilla gen4 is not really capable of whirlpooling.

Personally I keep hops in large bags and don't worry about break material. You could use a settling tank and transfer.

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

David Heath has a video showing he just puts the hops in the kettle and the false bottom collects everything or nearly everything

 

[jmstone617]

I haven’t tried whirlpooling for the same center-drain + false bottom reason but I suppose if you got the hop material “tight” enough from the whirlpool, even less would be likely to make it through the false bottom. I also have the HED but stuff still gets through if I don’t stop the transfer early enough. I’m yet to get clear beer without adding clarifier post fermentation.

 

[Willy]

I haven’t tried whirlpooling for the same center-drain + false bottom reason but I suppose if you got the hop material “tight” enough from the whirlpool, even less would be likely to make it through the false bottom. I also have the HED but stuff still gets through if I don’t stop the transfer early enough. I’m yet to get clear beer without adding clarifier post fermentation.

They offer a new heat exchanger plate which fits under the bottom plate. This is made to even the heat exchange but it also does a great job of collecting hops and other particulents .

 

[jmstone617]

They offer a new heat exchanger plate which fits under the bottom plate. This is made to even the heat exchange but it also does a great job of collecting hops and other particulents .

I think it’s always been the same? The one I have attaches under the false bottom.

 

[Willy]

I think it’s always been the same? The one I have attaches under the false bottom.

This is the one I have.
https://www.morebeer.com/products/h...3lsEXCR5kTmoDgjfoagaDx1BfAlr81m0aArMjEALw_wcB

 

[rtstrider]

I've been fighting loosening the top lid ring since day one on this fermenter. Found a cheap/easy fix

https://www.harborfreight.com/rubber-strap-wrench-set-2-piece-69373.html?_br_psugg_q=strap+wrench

 

[jdubdvdt]

Just an update regarding my sparge issues.
I had not brewed since my last post.

Not sure if this actually fixed my issues, but to eliminate the variable of my LHBS crushing grains - I decided to mill my grains with a 2 roller mill.

• 0.030", single crush, 10lbs grain (not including 1/2 lb rice hulls).
• 1.625qt/lb grain + 2.8qts dead space under basket.
• 8oz rice hulls (previously had not been using rice hulls).
• Did not start recirculating for 10 minutes.
• Recirculated 100% pump with valve shut almost entirely to only let a drizzle through.
• Stirred once, 5 minutes before mashing out.
• Mash out at 170F for 10 minutes.
• Turned off pump.
• Lifted grain basket SLOWLY over the course of 30 seconds (this would be tough with larger grain bills).
• Sparged with Imperial Sparge arm.

Not sure what did it, or if it was pure luck. Everything went fine. It did not squirt at all coming out of the sides, but was definitely leaking out the sides, but straight down. Honestly it could have been milling my own grains. I ended up with 78% brewhouse efficiency with my volumes set perfectly. I will keep trying to dial it in to see if I can get my efficiency higher, but nearly 80% is fine with me as long as it is repeatable.

I would like to eliminate rice hulls as it is an added cost and I had luck without it once already.

 

[rtstrider]

Just an update regarding my sparge issues.
I had not brewed since my last post.

Not sure if this actually fixed my issues, but to eliminate the variable of my LHBS crushing grains - I decided to mill my grains with a 2 roller mill.

• 0.030", single crush, 10lbs grain (not including 1/2 lb rice hulls).
• 1.625qt/lb grain + 2.8qts dead space under basket.
• 8oz rice hulls (previously had not been using rice hulls).
• Did not start recirculating for 10 minutes.
• Recirculated 100% pump with valve shut almost entirely to only let a drizzle through.
• Stirred once, 5 minutes before mashing out.
• Mash out at 170F for 10 minutes.
• Turned off pump.
• Lifted grain basket SLOWLY over the course of 30 seconds (this would be tough with larger grain bills).
• Sparged with Imperial Sparge arm.

Not sure what did it, or if it was pure luck. Everything went fine. It did not squirt at all coming out of the sides, but was definitely leaking out the sides, but straight down. Honestly it could have been milling my own grains. I ended up with 78% brewhouse efficiency with my volumes set perfectly. I will keep trying to dial it in to see if I can get my efficiency higher, but nearly 80% is fine with me as long as it is repeatable.

I would like to eliminate rice hulls as it is an added cost and I had luck without it once already.

I'd keep it right where it's at or lower. As someone that has gotten crazy high efficiency (over 90%) with the first few brews on this unit it's one of those situations just because you can doesn't mean you should. The beers were absolutely god awful. They got way better as the efficiency hovered around 75%.

 

[Willy]

Just an update regarding my sparge issues.
I had not brewed since my last post.

Not sure if this actually fixed my issues, but to eliminate the variable of my LHBS crushing grains - I decided to mill my grains with a 2 roller mill.

• 0.030", single crush, 10lbs grain (not including 1/2 lb rice hulls).
• 1.625qt/lb grain + 2.8qts dead space under basket.
• 8oz rice hulls (previously had not been using rice hulls).
• Did not start recirculating for 10 minutes.
• Recirculated 100% pump with valve shut almost entirely to only let a drizzle through.
• Stirred once, 5 minutes before mashing out.
• Mash out at 170F for 10 minutes.
• Turned off pump.
• Lifted grain basket SLOWLY over the course of 30 seconds (this would be tough with larger grain bills).
• Sparged with Imperial Sparge arm.

Not sure what did it, or if it was pure luck. Everything went fine. It did not squirt at all coming out of the sides, but was definitely leaking out the sides, but straight down. Honestly it could have been milling my own grains. I ended up with 78% brewhouse efficiency with my volumes set perfectly. I will keep trying to dial it in to see if I can get my efficiency higher, but nearly 80% is fine with me as long as it is repeatable.

I would like to eliminate rice hulls as it is an added cost and I had luck without it once already.

Congratulations! I was having issues before but all is good after a few changes.
1) lift the malt pipe out slowly and hold it halfway for 20-40 sec before fully lifting out.
2) let it drain a bit more
3 ) sparge slowly

I too have used adjuncts to better compact and filter the wort (flaked corn, flaked oats/barley, rice hulls). I don't mill these - just toss them into the crushed malt - I really like the flaked corn - has a nice mouthfeel to it.

 

[jdubdvdt]

Congratulations! I was having issues before but all is good after a few changes.
1) lift the malt pipe out slowly and hold it halfway for 20-40 sec before fully lifting out.
2) let it drain a bit more
3 ) sparge slowly

I too have used adjuncts to better compact and filter the wort (flaked corn, flaked oats/barley, rice hulls). I don't mill these - just toss them into the crushed malt - I really like the flaked corn - has a nice mouthfeel to it.

Would be nice if it had a second set of feet to let it hang for a minute and then lift the rest of the way

I wonder if the Anvil malt pipe would fit.

 

[Willy]

Just did a batch today ... Slowly putting in sparge water. No leaks.

Also, first time just throwing the hops in the boil - at 60 min. 25 min. & 15 min. 3 oz of hops in a 5 gal batch.

Put in the whirlfloc tablet at 10 min. After inserting the copper chiller coil.

After boil was completed I turned off the heat, and began chiller water pump.
and ran the whirlpool arm at 3/4 full open for about 12 minutes. It looked messy.

Then turned the whirlpool off and let it settle for 15 minutes as the work cooled.

When it came time to transfer to the fermenter - I was thrilled to see how clear the wort had become. Beautiful.

Whirlpooling works great!!!!
No more little bags for hops.
Really pleased with the whirlpool method.

 

[mashdar]

Just did a batch today ... Slowly putting in sparge water. No leaks.

Also, first time just throwing the hops in the boil - at 60 min. 25 min. & 15 min. 3 oz of hops in a 5 gal batch.

Put in the whirlfloc tablet at 10 min. After inserting the copper chiller coil.

After boil was completed I turned off the heat, and began chiller water pump.
and ran the whirlpool arm at 3/4 full open for about 12 minutes. It looked messy.

Then turned the whirlpool off and let it settle for 15 minutes as the work cooled.

When it came time to transfer to the fermenter - I was thrilled to see how clear the wort had become. Beautiful.

Whirlpooling works great!!!!
No more little bags for hops.
Really pleased with the whirlpool method.

Do you use the HED?

 

[Willy]

Do you use the HED?

Yes! I have the heat exchanger disk(HED). Makes a noticable difference. Also have the whirlpool arm on a Brewzilla Gen 4. New Brewzilla user as of Feb 2024. Really like it a lot, especially cooking outside and the easy cleanup.

 

[agentbud]

Just did a batch today ... Slowly putting in sparge water. No leaks.

Also, first time just throwing the hops in the boil - at 60 min. 25 min. & 15 min. 3 oz of hops in a 5 gal batch.

Put in the whirlfloc tablet at 10 min. After inserting the copper chiller coil.

After boil was completed I turned off the heat, and began chiller water pump.
and ran the whirlpool arm at 3/4 full open for about 12 minutes. It looked messy.

Then turned the whirlpool off and let it settle for 15 minutes as the work cooled.

When it came time to transfer to the fermenter - I was thrilled to see how clear the wort had become. Beautiful.

Whirlpooling works great!!!!
No more little bags for hops.
Really pleased with the whirlpool method.

Interesting. When I moved to the brewzilla, I stopped doing the whirlpool/settle step. The way I saw it, in a traditional pot, a whirlpool collects all the trub into the middle so you can pull clear wort from the side. But the brewzilla pulls the wort down the middle to the pump and out, so what good is it doing to whirlpool?

 

[Willy]

Interesting. When I moved to the brewzilla, I stopped doing the whirlpool/settle step. The way I saw it, in a traditional pot, a whirlpool collects all the trub into the middle so you can pull clear wort from the side. But the brewzilla pulls the wort down the middle to the pump and out, so what good is it doing to whirlpool?

The hops collect in a nice pile on the bottom plate which is above the HED (heat extender disk). The wort came out nice and clean. After transfer, I just pulled the bottom plate/HED out and dumped a big pile of hops.

I think the reason why - is to get more hop flavor in the beer. When using a little hop bag or a hop spider, you will probably need 10% more hops to get the same effect.