Brewzilla Gen4 Discussion/Tips Talk

[Willy]

I now use a pulley hoist and don’t really need the extra tier of brackets holding the mash pipe. Right now, just using a nice biab - no mash pipe and a hoist. The hoist makes it stupid simple and I have a claw type cleat to hold it where I want. (Like they have on boats… pull the rope thru and I locks in place.

 

[hungupdown]

Around the retaining ring, and the recess it fits in, is one of the harder spots to clean in the boiler. Moving it lower, might make cleaning harder.
The malt pipe lift 'feet', though an awkward shape, seem fairly easy to clean. As deposits here aren't so 'baked on'.

 

[Barão]

Is it possible to mash without the false bottom and the HED plate?

I wanted to make a BIAB type wort, with a bag of grains inside the mash tube

 

[hungupdown]

Is it possible to mash without the false bottom and the HED plate?

I wanted to make a BIAB type wort, with a bag of grains inside the mash tube

Unless you suspend the bag (and dont need the malt pipe base):
If malt pipe base rests on the temperature sensor projection, the weight of grain could damage it. (The sensor position was moved, so this maybe wouldn't happen in all versions of the gen4).
But if base did lay flat, then you'd probably have to keep the power very low, to avoid scorching.

Why not keep the false bottom, and ditch the malt pipe (as Willy just mentioned)?

 

[Barão]

Unless you suspend the bag (and dont need the malt pipe base):
If malt pipe base rests on the temperature sensor projection, the weight of grain could damage it. (The sensor position was moved, so this maybe wouldn't happen in all versions of the gen4).
But if base did lay flat, then you'd probably have to keep the power very low, to avoid scorching.

Why not keep the false bottom, and ditch the malt pipe (as Willy just mentioned)?

because I think it would get too hot... burn the bag of grains...so inside the malt tube ... "False Biab" ... but without the false bottom and the HED

 

[jmstone617]

Looks like the PPSU sight glass upgrade kit is available in the US now.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/brewzilla-ppsu-sight-glass-upgrade-kit-gen-3-4.html

 

[rtstrider]

Looks like the PPSU sight glass upgrade kit is available in the US now.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/brewzilla-ppsu-sight-glass-upgrade-kit-gen-3-4.html

My brewzilla replacement came with the sight glass and I really like it so far. That said it has gotten pretty crummy over the past few brew days so I'm curious to see how it fares after a good long Oxiclean soak/recirc. Either way it's made fly sparging way easier

 

[DuncB]

My system has a separate sight glass and it's a bugger to clean.
But a real boon to ensure kettle doesn't run dry during recirculation and to check volumes as you say during sparge etc.

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

Le sigh...

Broke the glass lid on brew nr 5 (let it fall on the ground). Thankfully it's cheap to replace

 

[mashdar]

Le sigh...

Broke the glass lid on brew nr 5 (let it fall on the ground). Thankfully it's cheap to replace

I've come close a few times.

Nice, though, when you break something "fancy" and find out it's $25. Did you know a snow blower carburetor can be $25? : )

 

[DuncB]

Just get the metal lid that can take the steam condenser.

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

Just get the metal lid that can take the steam condenser.

I've no interest in the steam condenser and that lid is about €100 more than the glass lid

 

[DuncB]

I think you'll find the lids on klarsteins, turbo boilers and others are the same size.
My stainless steel lid on the turbo boiler I bought as a sparge heater was a perfect fit/ swap with my 35l robobrew.

 

[Barão]

Can I make BIAB in the Brewzilla gen 4 pan ? Would the grain bag be inside or outside the malt basket?

 

[Willy]

Can I make BIAB in the Brewzilla gen 4 pan ? Would the grain bag be inside or outside the malt basket?

Tried them all and what I use now is BIAB with no malt pipe. YMMV. The malt pipe seems restrictive and reduces drain (flow) on recirculation. (Yeah, had some issues with lack of drainage using malt pipe). Really loving my Brewzilla Gen 4 with this method. (I do 5 & 10 gal batches and have the extender and wish I didn't buy the longer malt pipe. Don't use it anymore).
YMMV. Do what works best for you.

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

Can I make BIAB in the Brewzilla gen 4 pan ? Would the grain bag be inside or outside the malt basket?

Is the malt basket not essentialy a metal bag for the purposes of biab? What are you borrowing to get a stuck mash or sparge on the gen 4?

If it's a case of chasing efficiency I would more worry about a consistent efficiency. At the homebrew level a few points less efficiency is countable in cents rather than dollars.

 

[Barão]

Is the malt basket not essentialy a metal bag for the purposes of biab? What are you borrowing to get a stuck mash or sparge on the gen 4?

If it's a case of chasing efficiency I would more worry about a consistent efficiency. At the homebrew level a few points less efficiency is countable in cents rather than dollars.

I have problems with the tap clogging when transferring to the fermenter

 

[rtstrider]

Just a quick note on cleaning the sight glass in the brewzilla. Mine was pretty murky looking (from heavy use and unfortunately I didn't get any pics). It appears a couple hour recirculation with oxiclean clean free at 170f does the trick! It was crazy how much gunk this cleared out of there!

 

[Barão]

Is the malt basket not essentialy a metal bag for the purposes of biab? What are you borrowing to get a stuck mash or sparge on the gen 4?

If it's a case of chasing efficiency I would more worry about a consistent efficiency. At the homebrew level a few points less efficiency is countable in cents rather than dollars.

thanks

 

[micraftbeer]

Just a quick note on cleaning the sight glass in the brewzilla. Mine was pretty murky looking (from heavy use and unfortunately I didn't get any pics). It appears a couple hour recirculation with oxiclean clean free at 170f does the trick! It was crazy how much gunk this cleared out of there!

What ratio did you use between oxiclean and water? I don't have the sight glass, but now you've got me worried what's inside my stainless recirc tube that I can't see!

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

I have problems with the tap clogging when transferring to the fermenter

David Heath does a video on YouTube using a lot of hops in the BZ35 straight in the boil kettle and has no issues with clogging.

Not saying I don't believe you, just find it interesting.

Then again one man's lots of hops could be another's 15m addition!

 

[Barão]

David Heath does a video on YouTube using a lot of hops in the BZ35 straight in the boil kettle and has no issues with clogging.

Not saying I don't believe you, just find it interesting.

Then again one man's lots of hops could be another's 15m addition!

Yes, in the BZ 35 lt geb 3.1 which does not have a HOLE IN THE CENTER of the pan like the BZ gen 4...in which all the trub is in the center... not being possible to make whirpool

 

[theredviper]

Has anybody upgraded a 120V 4.0 with a bigger pump? Is it possible? The bigger pump in the 4.1 seems to be 240V only? I can't tell.

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

Has anybody upgraded a 120V 4.0 with a bigger pump? Is it possible? The bigger pump in the 4.1 seems to be 240V only? I can't tell.

Doesn't have to be a kegland pump. Any US pump of similar dimensions and type should work.

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

Yes, in the BZ 35 lt geb 3.1 which does not have a HOLE IN THE CENTER of the pan like the BZ gen 4...in which all the trub is in the center... not being possible to make whirpool

Go to 4:10 on this video

 

[agentbud]

Question to all of you that are using the HED (heat exchanger disk). I have been using one for a while now but I find that when the FB warps some, one or two of the openings between the HED and false bottom is pinched closed. See picture below. The three "feet" welded to the HED keep it separated from the false bottom in those three places, but it seems it could use a few more of those feet to keep them separated all the way around. I was thinking of putting some SS bolts through the false bottom in 3 or 4 places to further keep the HED and false bottom apart. Any one else having this problem and have a better solution?

 

[micraftbeer]

Mine's all warped, too. However, it seems to have caused me no problems with efficiency, stuck mash, or temperature stability. So I just ignore how it looks!

 

[Barão]

Go to 4:10 on this video

ok...but I wanted to see him turning on the pump or opening the tap

 

[jdubdvdt]

My brewzilla replacement came with the sight glass and I really like it so far. That said it has gotten pretty crummy over the past few brew days so I'm curious to see how it fares after a good long Oxiclean soak/recirc. Either way it's made fly sparging way easier

I wasn't considering upgrading because I feel as if it is a little high on pricing. Maybe it is because I bought a Gen 4.0 in spring 2024 and feel like I missed out by buying a few months too early.

I bet fly sparging it really does help. Makes me consider it again.
How does it look after a boil? I like to verify my post boil volumes before transferring since I use a kegmenter and cannot see the volume in it.

 

[DuncB]

Plenty of after market sight glass available to fit.

 

[rtstrider]

I wasn't considering upgrading because I feel as if it is a little high on pricing. Maybe it is because I bought a Gen 4.0 in spring 2024 and feel like I missed out by buying a few months too early.

I bet fly sparging it really does help. Makes me consider it again.
How does it look after a boil? I like to verify my post boil volumes before transferring since I use a kegmenter and cannot see the volume in it.

The sight glass really helps with sparging. As far as end of boil I really don't pay attention to that since I've dialed in the pre boil volume on this setup. The one thing I miss in the newest Brewzilla is the feet that are at the halfway point on the mash pipe. I'll have to pay attention to the sight glass post boil on my next brew (next weekend). I'll report back.

 

[jdubdvdt]

As far as end of boil I really don't pay attention to that since I've dialed in the pre boil volume on this setup.

I haven't really needed to either, but without the neoprene jacket when it was 35F outside it was struggling even on the 220V to have the rigorous boil I normally have...

The one thing I miss in the newest Brewzilla is the feet that are at the halfway point on the mash pipe.

I have the regular 4.0 and it doesn't have the second set of feet. I got the crummy version haha.

I'll have to pay attention to the sight glass post boil on my next brew (next weekend). I'll report back.

Thanks!

 

[Barão]

Brewzilla gen 4 Equipment Profile ...false bottom
I have seen the value 0.7 gll of false bottom for the BZ gen 4 35 lt profile , but with the central hole all the brewing liquid is drained into the fermenter , then this value would have to be 0 gl ...
Yes or no ?

 

[jdubdvdt]

The only thing you should use is the mash tun deadspace. Not the mash tun loss. It helps you calculate the volume needed to get your mash thickness correct. Otherwise there are losses from the kettle, but almost insignificant - hops absorb more.

 

[Barão]

The only thing you should use is the mash tun deadspace. Not the mash tun loss. It helps you calculate the volume needed to get your mash thickness correct. Otherwise there are losses from the kettle, but almost insignificant - hops absorb more.

thanks

 

[ExpatPete]

Hello fellow BrewZilla Heads. I am in the process of upgrading from a BrewZilla Gen 3.1.1 35L to a Gen 4.1 65L 17.1G 220V unit. I am in the US and my electrician comes out next week to run a 220V cable from one end of the house to the other and install a receptacle in my brewing room. I love my first BrewZilla but as I settle into the styles and recipes I like to brew and drink, I want to be able to brew a 11 gallon batch and get two kegs out of a single brew session. I will use the Gen 3.1.1 35L unit for smaller batches, like for my brewing club quarterly competitions, and to use as a HLT.

I would like to hear your suggestions and key lessons learned for set-up and operations on the Gen 4.1 especially if you have a 220V unit and or the 65L model. I have gone back through a couple of months of comments in this thread and have already picked up the following tips. More are appreciated!
- I have ordered the Heat Exchanger Disc HED
- Ordered the whirlpool arm
- I am installing a pulley hoist & cleat to help lift the heavier malt pipe up.
- The link to the David Heath videos was very helpful.

What else have you learned?

 

[jdubdvdt]

Hello fellow BrewZilla Heads. I am in the process of upgrading from a BrewZilla Gen 3.1.1 35L to a Gen 4.1 65L 17.1G 220V unit. I am in the US and my electrician comes out next week to run a 220V cable from one end of the house to the other and install a receptacle in my brewing room. I love my first BrewZilla but as I settle into the styles and recipes I like to brew and drink, I want to be able to brew a 11 gallon batch and get two kegs out of a single brew session. I will use the Gen 3.1.1 35L unit for smaller batches, like for my brewing club quarterly competitions, and to use as a HLT.

I would like to hear your suggestions and key lessons learned for set-up and operations on the Gen 4.1 especially if you have a 220V unit and or the 65L model. I have gone back through a couple of months of comments in this thread and have already picked up the following tips. More are appreciated!
- I have ordered the Heat Exchanger Disc HED
- Ordered the whirlpool arm
- I am installing a pulley hoist & cleat to help lift the heavier malt pipe up.
- The link to the David Heath videos was very helpful.

What else have you learned?

Regarding your extras:
I don't know if they removed it from the 65L or the Gen 4.1, but I have a Gen 4.0 220V 35L and my unit came with the Heat Exchanger Disc (HED). Might be worth checking to return. Whirlpool arm is a plus. Hoist is definitely nice to have.

My boil on the 35L 220V is AWESOME, but it may be worth looking into the neoprene jacket for your 65L if you are not happy with heating times or how vigorous the boil is.

I plan on getting the same unit 65L 220V Gen 4.1 next time it goes on sale (I promised myself I would be a good boy and try to save a few dollars on brew stuff this year). I think your idea of using your 35L for "pilot" batches and a HLT make sense. I use my original Grainfather as my HLT sometimes, but it is so damn slow compared to the 220V 35L Brewzilla.

My biggest suggestions (which you probably do this already on your 3.1) are:

• Wait 10-15 minutes after doughing in to turn the pump on
• Crush to credit card thickness
• Ensure you are calculating mash water with the dead space under the mashtun
• Slowly hoist the malt pipe over 10-20 seconds to not compress the grains too much (it will spray out the sides if you lift too fast)
• Throw the hops directly into the kettle, you don't need a hop spider. I have done 4-5oz of hops for a 5 gallon batch and had no issues.
  

 

[Willy]

Hello fellow BrewZilla Heads. I am in the process of upgrading from a BrewZilla Gen 3.1.1 35L to a Gen 4.1 65L 17.1G 220V unit. I am in the US and my electrician comes out next week to run a 220V cable from one end of the house to the other and install a receptacle in my brewing room. I love my first BrewZilla but as I settle into the styles and recipes I like to brew and drink, I want to be able to brew a 11 gallon batch and get two kegs out of a single brew session. I will use the Gen 3.1.1 35L unit for smaller batches, like for my brewing club quarterly competitions, and to use as a HLT.

I would like to hear your suggestions and key lessons learned for set-up and operations on the Gen 4.1 especially if you have a 220V unit and or the 65L model. I have gone back through a couple of months of comments in this thread and have already picked up the following tips. More are appreciated!
- I have ordered the Heat Exchanger Disc HED
- Ordered the whirlpool arm
- I am installing a pulley hoist & cleat to help lift the heavier malt pipe up.
- The link to the David Heath videos was very helpful.

What else have you learned?

I have the 35L with extension stuff to increase capacity from about 9 g to 14, so while not a 65L my bigger batch size is pretty close. HED is a must and whirlpool arm helps too. When you pull the HED out after you remove the wort it will be packed with hop sludge. Sometimes it is difficult to remove as it kinda forms a vacuum. Just giving you a heads up there.

I put in 2 outlets when I called the electrician - one in the garage near the breaker box, and another line to an outdoor outlet. Love brewing outside. Anyway, it is much cheaper to do the double outlet in a single job for the electrician. Price it out if you are looking to add another outlet.

An extension cord is a good idea and I am thrilled I got one at the start. 25' for me.

To end up with 2 mostly filled corny kegs - batch size at 11 g. About 10 g in the fermenter , about 9.2g for kegs. This gets you two 4.5+ g / keg - which isn't full, but headspace works for you to carb it.

Bigger batches take longer to heat and cool. Probably worth it to get a Scylla (a hydra for Brewzilla ) - it saves a bunch of time.

Take the time to clean the tubing under the hood - underneath for the pump, and center drain - and get backups. After a batch - I take off the old tubes and clean them in PBW, soaking. Rinse, starsan. I swap out with the clean backups - rotating the little connector tubes each time. Works great.

You'll need more corny kegs.

 

[ExpatPete]

Regarding your extras:
I don't know if they removed it from the 65L or the Gen 4.1, but I have a Gen 4.0 220V 35L and my unit came with the Heat Exchanger Disc (HED). Might be worth checking to return. Whirlpool arm is a plus. Hoist is definitely nice to have.

My boil on the 35L 220V is AWESOME, but it may be worth looking into the neoprene jacket for your 65L if you are not happy with heating times or how vigorous the boil is.

I plan on getting the same unit 65L 220V Gen 4.1 next time it goes on sale (I promised myself I would be a good boy and try to save a few dollars on brew stuff this year). I think your idea of using your 35L for "pilot" batches and a HLT make sense. I use my original Grainfather as my HLT sometimes, but it is so damn slow compared to the 220V 35L Brewzilla.

My biggest suggestions (which you probably do this already on your 3.1) are:

• Wait 10-15 minutes after doughing in to turn the pump on
• Crush to credit card thickness
• Ensure you are calculating mash water with the dead space under the mashtun
• Slowly hoist the malt pipe over 10-20 seconds to not compress the grains too much (it will spray out the sides if you lift too fast)
• Throw the hops directly into the kettle, you don't need a hop spider. I have done 4-5oz of hops for a 5 gallon batch and had no issues.

Thank you for the informative reply. One

I have the 35L with extension stuff to increase capacity from about 9 g to 14, so while not a 65L my bigger batch size is pretty close. HED is a must and whirlpool arm helps too. When you pull the HED out after you remove the wort it will be packed with hop sludge. Sometimes it is difficult to remove as it kinda forms a vacuum. Just giving you a heads up there.

I put in 2 outlets when I called the electrician - one in the garage near the breaker box, and another line to an outdoor outlet. Love brewing outside. Anyway, it is much cheaper to do the double outlet in a single job for the electrician. Price it out if you are looking to add another outlet.

An extension cord is a good idea and I am thrilled I got one at the start. 25' for me.

To end up with 2 mostly filled corny kegs - batch size at 11 g. About 10 g in the fermenter , about 9.2g for kegs. This gets you two 4.5+ g / keg - which isn't full, but headspace works for you to carb it.

Bigger batches take longer to heat and cool. Probably worth it to get a Scylla (a hydra for Brewzilla ) - it saves a bunch of time.

Take the time to clean the tubing under the hood - underneath for the pump, and center drain - and get backups. After a batch - I take off the old tubes and clean them in PBW, soaking. Rinse, starsan. I swap out with the clean backups - rotating the little connector tubes each time. Works great.

You'll need more corny kegs.

Thanks, I appreciate the advice. I like your idea of cleaning the tubes and buying back-up for an easy swap. Smart.

 

[ExpatPete]

Regarding your extras:
I don't know if they removed it from the 65L or the Gen 4.1, but I have a Gen 4.0 220V 35L and my unit came with the Heat Exchanger Disc (HED). Might be worth checking to return. Whirlpool arm is a plus. Hoist is definitely nice to have.

My boil on the 35L 220V is AWESOME, but it may be worth looking into the neoprene jacket for your 65L if you are not happy with heating times or how vigorous the boil is.

I plan on getting the same unit 65L 220V Gen 4.1 next time it goes on sale (I promised myself I would be a good boy and try to save a few dollars on brew stuff this year). I think your idea of using your 35L for "pilot" batches and a HLT make sense. I use my original Grainfather as my HLT sometimes, but it is so damn slow compared to the 220V 35L Brewzilla.

My biggest suggestions (which you probably do this already on your 3.1) are:

• Wait 10-15 minutes after doughing in to turn the pump on
• Crush to credit card thickness
• Ensure you are calculating mash water with the dead space under the mashtun
• Slowly hoist the malt pipe over 10-20 seconds to not compress the grains too much (it will spray out the sides if you lift too fast)
• Throw the hops directly into the kettle, you don't need a hop spider. I have done 4-5oz of hops for a 5 gallon batch and had no issues.

Good input, thanks! I am glad I didn't have to figure out the need to slowly raise the malt pipe so it does not spray out of the side holes! I sent MoreBeer a note and they confirmed that the unit does NOT come with the HED so I ordered it today (by the way, MoreBeer has a site wide 15% off flash sale til midnight west coast time).