Brewie

[cubsfan16]

First brew going well and still in process. Doing a daisy cutter clone with the 600 micron mash basket.

View attachment 610503

View attachment 610504

 

[HarkinBanks]

Good looking boil.

Mate tells me their server is down and will be rebooted on Monday. My machine hasn’t been able to update.

 

[c06u]

Good looking boil.

Mate tells me their server is down and will be rebooted on Monday. My machine hasn’t been able to update.

Thanks for the posting on the server issue...new B20 Ver: (hefeweizen 2.5)first start up and could not get it to update, thought it might be server issue the way it was acting

 

[cubsfan16]

Brew went well. Boil was very vigorous....enough so I added a couple drops of fermcap just in case. Have you ever had a boil over? That’s my concern with leaving it alone unattended.

I wish the progress counter would provide feedback of where it is at with each step in time vs %. Also wish you can set a temp and whirlpool in the hops cages....perhaps the new manual mode will allow this? Overall very happy with the brew day.

 

[HarkinBanks]

I’ve never had a boil over but I always use fermcap. It’s not worth the risk in my opinion. I have used fermcap in my boil and fermentation since the beginning.

 

[cubsfan16]

I always do as well but would really like to set it and come back to cooled wort vs waiting for the boil to start. Is fermcap effective if you add it early? My zymatic only gets up to 207F so I didn’t have any issues with it boiling over.

 

[Still Brewn]

Nice looking boil. Never came close to boil over.
Got an email from Máté at midnight and they are looking into my issue but with the servers down all weekend that at least explains why it didn't do anything over the weekend.
Definitly not letting mine hook to the internet whenever it wants anymore. More than a week since I have been able to brew. Makes me very sad.

 

[cubsfan16]

I got an email this morning as well confirming I’m all good with the update. I also saw the apple app is back up on test flight....so still no official App Store apple app yet.

When you say you haven’t had a boil over, do you use fermcap?

 

[Still Brewn]

I've never used anything, although I thought about adding something to the mash side because of the foaming I've gotten on that side. I've never had any overflow from the foam though.

 

[HarkinBanks]

Last night my machine updated to maibock 3.1.1 while hardwired to my router without issue. I did a few restarts and it is booting up, but it is forcing the machine into the initial 5L clean each time I reboot. I will run the program when I have time and report back.

 

[cubsfan16]

Mine also requested the initial clean again after the update. I canceled it as I was starting my first brew and when I hit the brew button for my recipe it actually started the cleaning cycle versus the brewing cycle so I had to stop pull my mash basket and let it run. A bit of a pain but after that all went well.

 

[Still Brewn]

It did the same thing to me when I first got it. I'm unfortunately still stuck in the "reboot to launch new software" thing. I have a ticket in and Máté said he let the software guys know but this is getting old. I have grains in a bag ready to go for over a week now...... I just wanna brew something. I'm down to the last brew after last weekend and it is one I made for my brother..... "Philjina Lite" and I don't care for lite beer. I guess I will keg it tonight.

 

[c06u]

Going the hard wire route here also per Máté I think the wifi issue is going to be around forever, my guess is that tiny r/f signal is shielded by all that stainless steel, a stub antenna on future production is the way to go, most late model metal case PC's have addressed the weak signal that way

 

[HarkinBanks]

I have kept the machine hard wired direct to my router since the update and ran the clean program. All went well and the testflight iphone app worked during the process. Rebooted a few times and all is good.

@Still Brewn-I assume you have tried the hard wired route many times? I got to your same screen and pulled the plug and my machine finished the update after the restart.

 

[Still Brewn]

Yes... almost 2 weeks and I quit keeping track of the number of reboots after 50, about half wired and half wireless.

 

[cubsfan16]

Yes... almost 2 weeks and I quit keeping track of the number of reboots after 50, about half wired and half wireless.

Has Brewie responded to you ticket? Seems like a hard reset of some sort is needed.

 

[HarkinBanks]

Yes... almost 2 weeks and I quit keeping track of the number of reboots after 50, about half wired and half wireless.

Just trying to think of something that might work for you, have you tried turning off your wireless network and connecting directly to the router?

One of my original units got stuck during the boot sequence and there was nothing they could do to fix it so I had to send it back. I was baffled that the USB port couldn't be used with a thumb drive as a start up disk.

 

[Still Brewn]

Hard reset is probably what is needed. I saw a "RESET ARM uC" printed on the Brewie MCU Board V1p1 next to some jumper pins but also next to some soldered holes that go through the board..... so without instructions it's kinda pointless to try anything, yet.
Máté said he sent it to the software guys but I haven't heard back. If I don't get a response tonight I will send another email.
I'm sure this has to do with the release of software, I was up and ready to brewaround midnight when it came down, my machine attempted to download it and there was some kind of error. My machine knew there was an update but would not get it properly and didn't update the version number disable during bootup. The update was then taken offline for a couple of days. When the newest version was put back online a few days later the version number changed but still has not finished with the update and tells me to unplug to finish it.

 

[volx]

After a long involuntary brewing hiatus and armed with my new grain basket, I was very excited to finally start a brew again yesterday. Everything went well until the boil. My Brewie+ never got the wort over 94C/201F. I have new wires and a switch that I got from Mate that I will install but I have little hope this will address the issue.
On a positive note, with 13.5 lbs of grains I got 1.066 OG with my 400 micron grain basket and some stirring, which is about what I get on my previous BIAB system.
Does anyone have a guess if my brew will be OK despite having never reached a full boil?

 

[Still Brewn]

Sorry to hear. Hopefully using it before the repair didn't break anything else.
Your brew should be somewhat ok, you probably didn't boil off enough water and your hops probably were not utilised as good as they could have been. There are systems out there that use a switching temperature of 205° so I can't imagine that 4 degrees will make that much more difference. Your color may be lighter also. Hopefully it wasn't a short boil time.

As far as the wires and switch .... That should fix the problem you had before you brewed. A lot electricity gets used in the defective spade connectors, once the resistance is gone from those connections the electricity can get to where it is suppose to be used, in the heating element. As a result your temperature will be higher.

 

[HarkinBanks]

Found this link in another thread. Lots of info in the FCC filings and pics I had never seen before. This is for the B+ only:

https://apps.fcc.gov/oetcf/eas/reports/ViewExhibitReport.cfm?mode=Exhibits&RequestTimeout=500&calledFromFrame=N&application_id=JLdgqJqxCD+7ePP7bgRM5Q==&fcc_id=2ANZUB20

 

[volx]

I took my Brewie+ apart today to see what was going on with the last brew and to install the new wires I had received. All wires to the heating element are completely disintegrated. One of the connection tabs on the heating element is completely melted away. The silicone sheet on top of the connectors has a hole burned into it.
I asked Mate to send me instructions on how to send my unit back for repair and a permanent fix to the overheating problem. I believe in its current for it is a fire hazard. This will be a real test on how well their customer support really works when it involves a returned unit. I will keep you posted. Some pictures attached.

 

[HarkinBanks]

@volx

I know you want a permanent fix, but without adding fans, there is no permanent fix to cool this area. Mate sent me a kit with two new heating elements, two new thermal switches and new wires. This will "fix" your problem so to speak but will not reduce the heat in that area. Otherwise, I think you will be stuck asking for a refund.

 

[Still Brewn]

There is another connection that is probably melted that I'm not seeing in the pictures also. Should be on the thermal switch. I also don't see a terminal melted away. That's bad, don't get me wrong, far worse than mine got before I fixed it but I don't think so bad that it can't be fixed. Maybe my willingness to "take it", so to speak, is enhanced by the fact that I have been unable to brew on my own for so long and I finally found something that works for me.

 

[volx]

I have 2 wires and 1 thermal switch, which won't do. When I tried to clean the tab on the heating element, it crumbled and is now gone. Mate said they have adopted the fan solution for new instruments, so hopefully they can retrofit mine. My patience is running out.

 

[volx]

I stand corrected: what crumbled away was a piece of melted silicone, the terminal below is still intact. Does anyone have a good picture of the wiring to the thermal switch and the heating element? Thanks!

 

[HarkinBanks]

I stand corrected: what crumbled away was a piece of melted silicone, the terminal below is still intact. Does anyone have a good picture of the wiring to the thermal switch and the heating element? Thanks!

It is pretty simple, power comes into the thermal switch with the one long wire on the left of your pic, then use the short wire from the thermal switch to the element connection shown in the middle of your pic, then the other side of the element connection with the other long wire back to complete the circuit. The thermal switch is just there to cut off power to the element if it overheats.

 

[Still Brewn]

Here is a start.... have to look through pics

 

[volx]

View attachment 611450
Here is a start.... have to look through pics

Thank you this helps! I need to put new crimp connections on my short wire.

 

[Still Brewn]

I don't have pictures of the other 2 from end to end but it is obvious where they need to go because of the other ends... one goes to the high power pcb and the other goes to the relay. You may have to unplug a ground wire to get to the screw on the relay.

 

[Still Brewn]

On your new wire? Should be good.... make sure you polish up those terminals. You don't want any oxidized metal in there causing resistance on your new connections

 

[Still Brewn]

While you have that apart can you take a close up picture of the board to the right in that last picture. I think I found the issue I'm having after talking to Máté but I need a picture to compare to to.

 

[Still Brewn]

Especially this area..... The camera sucks on this tablet.

 

[Still Brewn]

After examining the board with a microscope I think I have a nick in the etching that is causing my problem..... manufacturing again. I also think there is solder where it shouldn't be.

 

[Ironcyberia]

Thank you this helps! I need to put new crimp connections on my short wire.

It is important to cut the wire till you find a unaffected by heat section. Please read conversations Harkin and I had a month ago, maybe around page 30, I explain everything about this mod. Nice to see Brewie are putting fans on new machine, this is the only way to keep terminals above maximum spec temperature.

 

[Ironcyberia]

After examining the board with a microscope I think I have a nick in the etching that is causing my problem..... manufacturing again. I also think there is solder where it shouldn't be.

This chip looks like driving 3 mosfet, so it is an output chip, probably driving valves or something else, unlikly to cause your software issue

 

[Still Brewn]

The conversation went ..... The machine is not able to overwrite the firmware ... The nick I think im seeing goes to another chip but I can't tell if it also goes to the first pin on the chip next to the nick

. The wire in question comes out from between the first two pins.

 

[Still Brewn]

Goes to pin 3 on the audrino chip and the chip in question also goes to the reset arm jumper

I just can't tell if pin 1 is also connected to the nicked layout in the last picture

 

[Still Brewn]

It is important to cut the wire till you find a unaffected by heat section. Please read conversations Harkin and I had a month ago, maybe around page 30, I explain everything about this mod. Nice to see Brewie are putting fans on new machine, this is the only way to keep terminals above maximum spec temperature.

Where did you see about fans?
And I thought he said he got new wires?....

 

[Still Brewn]

Nevermind I see about the fans a wire ... I had to go back and read. Well that's awesome. Glad to see something came of this. I wonder when they will be rolling that out.