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Tim H

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I finally decided to resurrect the brewie and thought a thorough inspection + fan mod would be a good place to start.

my B+ was one of the later models produced with “upgraded” wires (at least that’s what Brewie told me) so I don’t know if this warrants me re-doing the current wiring....

I removed the burned gunk on all the connections and have this-

no discoloration on the actual connection points, and the heat shrink seems to be in tact.... (I will be adding a fan to keep things cool)

thoughts?
Can I just button it back up and brew?
Do I need to cover the connection points with anything?
A8072B60-156E-4C99-864F-90B286DBC3C9.jpeg
D2CE7DCC-7E93-45E4-A1B8-A6DD3FA89C70.jpeg
 

Nate R

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I finally decided to resurrect the brewie and thought a thorough inspection + fan mod would be a good place to start.

my B+ was one of the later models produced with “upgraded” wires (at least that’s what Brewie told me) so I don’t know if this warrants me re-doing the current wiring....

I removed the burned gunk on all the connections and have this-

no discoloration on the actual connection points, and the heat shrink seems to be in tact.... (I will be adding a fan to keep things cool)

thoughts?
Can I just button it back up and brew?
Do I need to cover the connection points with anything?View attachment 714677View attachment 714678
What do you mean by "gunk"?
My understanding is the gunk is burned insulation.
By yes i also knew the later B+ unit did come with better wiring.
IMO... if you are already in there, just do it all. To me physically getting to that area was the hardest part. I say do it all and be done with it.
 

Tim H

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What do you mean by "gunk"?
My understanding is the gunk is burned insulation.
By yes i also knew the later B+ unit did come with better wiring.
IMO... if you are already in there, just do it all. To me physically getting to that area was the hardest part. I say do it all and be done with it.
Nate,

From what I understand, the burned part was the adhesive. It seems like the adhesive corroded the connections and caused problems.

it appears that my connections are in very good shape. If you replace the wire, do you add new adhesive???

won’t the new adhesive just melt again??
 

Nate R

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My original Brewie B20 (not the plus) had the wires actually start to melt- too much current and heat.
The plastic parts went first, but there was black 'gunk' in various areas.

You might be fine... my $0.02 is just replace what you can while you have it open.
The B+ is easier to take apart than the B20, but why not clean it all up at once?

Also- i did not do the fan mod... i simply aim one of the larger fans i bought into the boil side. Not perfect, but it moves the air around.
There is way less room in the B20 for the fans.
 

Nate R

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Hello fellow Brewie users...

So... i have an issue with my original B20 unit.
During my brew today, after the heated strike water was pumped into the mash tun, it took a long time before it wanted the 2nd water intake. Then all the mash water ended up back in the boil kettle.

Same when cleaning, same when i did a test brew.

I also turned it off, unplugged it, between each trial.

I assume a valve is not working- does anyone know if this is common? I will head over to brewie forum next, but before i take this thing apart i was hoping someone may have some thoughts.

Many thanks all!
 

jordo_99

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Hello fellow Brewie users...

So... i have an issue with my original B20 unit.
During my brew today, after the heated strike water was pumped into the mash tun, it took a long time before it wanted the 2nd water intake. Then all the mash water ended up back in the boil kettle.

Same when cleaning, same when i did a test brew.

I also turned it off, unplugged it, between each trial.

I assume a valve is not working- does anyone know if this is common? I will head over to brewie forum next, but before i take this thing apart i was hoping someone may have some thoughts.

Many thanks all!
I haven't had a valve fail but if it did (and isn't simply unplugged)...it's likely one of two things:
  1. The servo motor died (which is cheap and easy to source on amazon)
  2. The plastic housing/arm broke and the servo can longer pinch the tubing closed (this could be 3d printed but I can't assist there...my best guess is that you'd need to just need to replace it entirely)
 

Nate R

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I haven't had a valve fail but if it did (and isn't simply unplugged)...it's likely one of two things:
  1. The servo motor died (which is cheap and easy to source on amazon)
  2. The plastic housing/arm broke and the servo can longer pinch the tubing closed (this could be 3d printed but I can't assist there...my best guess is that you'd need to just need to replace it entirely)
I think since every other function appears to work (i.e. a short clean cycle and a full drain cycle both do what they should do normally) maybe the servo is bad?
Any links or suggestions on the amazon replacement? If i am going to take this thing apart again, i want to have the part first.

Thanks.
 

Nate R

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Awesome- thank you!
I should not be so lazy- i am sure the parts are on the forum. Thank you.

I am kinda at the point of... do i repair this thing again... or just look for a new all in one? Grainfather probably for the 110v.
I would hate to spend more time opening this thing up again only to have it fail again.

Thanks for the part link!!
 

TwistedGray

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Awesome- thank you!
I should not be so lazy- i am sure the parts are on the forum. Thank you.

I am kinda at the point of... do i repair this thing again... or just look for a new all in one? Grainfather probably for the 110v.
I would hate to spend more time opening this thing up again only to have it fail again.

Thanks for the part link!!
Look into the Mash and Boil, if it's not too small. You poor Brewie guys.
 

Nate R

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Look into the Mash and Boil, if it's not too small. You poor Brewie guys.
Ha ha ha... it was a fun ride. I got mine super cheap... i feel bad for the original backers. At least i knew the risks before i bought. But.. that dead horse bas been beaten, resurected, beaten to death again, over and over here....

Mash and boil huh? How about anvil? I only do 5 gallons, and really want to stay 110V. I want programability for step mash... actually, i am very spoiled from my Brewie. I want all the ease and repeatability of the Brewie lol.

Thanks.


Edit: browsing my favorite on-line store i found this comparison chart. I do not think morebeer will care if i share here.
 

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TwistedGray

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Mash and boil huh? How about anvil? I only do 5 gallons, and really want to stay 110V. I want programability for step mash... actually, i am very spoiled from my Brewie. I want all the ease and repeatability of the Brewie lol.
There are a few reasons that I liked the M&B over other ones and a lot of it boiled down to cost. I've also had mine for a few years now before there were a lot of other options. It runs of 110V, has programmable temp settings, can ferment in it, can distill if you want, and it's not expensive. They do have "fancier" models with build-in chillers and pumps. I have the basic model without the frills, and I've been brewing in it for three years I think...no issues.

I mostly do 3-5 gallons myself, for reference. I've brewed, fermented, and bottled from the M&B. It's a good all-in-one : )
 

JeffersonCoastal

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I just obtained a used BREWIE. Looking at the instructions & video it says you must use a BREWIE mash bag. Those I cannot find! Anyone who still brews with a BREWIE, what is the preferred alternative?
 

Nate R

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I just obtained a used BREWIE. Looking at the instructions & video it says you must use a BREWIE mash bag. Those I cannot find! Anyone who still brews with a BREWIE, what is the preferred alternative?
You can get an ArborFab stainless basket (about $160?) Or you can use any brew-in-a-bag bag as long it seals.
Did your unit come with a false bottom??

Note- you will get better efficiciency with two bags in the Brewie.
 

JeffersonCoastal

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@Nate R Thanks for your response! I'm not new to brewing but am new to Brewie and/or BIAB. When you say "any" brew bag, do you remember what size is needed? And by sealing, just so that the grain doesn't spill out right?
 

Nate R

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@Nate R Thanks for your response! I'm not new to brewing but am new to Brewie and/or BIAB. When you say "any" brew bag, do you remember what size is needed? And by sealing, just so that the grain doesn't spill out right?
I will PM you- i have exrra bags.

I will measure the bag when i get home.

But yes the Brewie bag is a zipper bag, which keeps the grain inside. Most BIAB bags i see are loose on top.

I asked about the false bottom because the Brewie will scorch immediatly if anything hits the bottom.
 

JasperB

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Found the Facebook post and I realize now that what I’m describing won’t be possible since they aren’t modifying the OS code.
Besides the built from scratch B20+ firmware, shortly after i posted the teaser video on fb we managed to make some improvements to the software/UI as well. Developer Mode (renamed as Brewmaster Mode) will be easily accessible via a button on the home screen and allows you to set a target temperature for both heaters simultaneously.

We think our current build is stable and expect to be able to release the software soon™, if you (or anyone else) would like to test ReBrewie and provide some feedback, pm me on Facebook or Telegram(@JasperB).
PXL_20210211_025025659.MP.jpg
 

thebirdman

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I finally decided to resurrect the brewie and thought a thorough inspection + fan mod would be a good place to start.

my B+ was one of the later models produced with “upgraded” wires (at least that’s what Brewie told me) so I don’t know if this warrants me re-doing the current wiring....

I removed the burned gunk on all the connections and have this-

no discoloration on the actual connection points, and the heat shrink seems to be in tact.... (I will be adding a fan to keep things cool)

thoughts?
Can I just button it back up and brew?
Do I need to cover the connection points with anything?View attachment 714677View attachment 714678
Well after 97 brews, mine decided not to heat the BT today....LOl wires are fried...... I was hoping to shoot a happy pic of 100 successful brews with no issues, but crap happens... unfortunately no connectors on hand, so will have to repair this week....
As for the "Gunk" Dielectric grease helps protect the terminals, you don't need much
As a retailer that has been stuck with them, have 3 more new units :) 1 B20 2 B20+ one returned B20 lightly used. so parts for life :)
 

thebirdman

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Girl is back up and running less 1 bottom fan..... lid shifted and fell pulling off the fan connectors, found one on the main board, cannot see where the second connects ?
anyone?
tkx
 

JasperB

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lid shifted and fell pulling off the fan connectors, found one on the main board, cannot see where the second connects ?
anyone?
tkx
B20+? It should be connected to the red pcb 'above' the HV board, the connector is marked as "VENT"
 

thebirdman

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TY, I seen that port empty but did not want to fry anything not knowing if it was correct
ty again
randy
 

JPAPA

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I finally decided to resurrect the brewie and thought a thorough inspection + fan mod would be a good place to start.

my B+ was one of the later models produced with “upgraded” wires (at least that’s what Brewie told me) so I don’t know if this warrants me re-doing the current wiring....

I removed the burned gunk on all the connections and have this-

no discoloration on the actual connection points, and the heat shrink seems to be in tact.... (I will be adding a fan to keep things cool)

thoughts?
Can I just button it back up and brew?
Do I need to cover the connection points with anything?View attachment 714677View attachment 714678
I finally decided to resurrect the brewie and thought a thorough inspection + fan mod would be a good place to start.

my B+ was one of the later models produced with “upgraded” wires (at least that’s what Brewie told me) so I don’t know if this warrants me re-doing the current wiring....

I removed the burned gunk on all the connections and have this-

no discoloration on the actual connection points, and the heat shrink seems to be in tact.... (I will be adding a fan to keep things cool)

thoughts?
Can I just button it back up and brew?
Do I need to cover the connection points with anything?View attachment 714677View attachment 714678
HI, my Brewie B20+ Is no longer heating the boiling tank, It shows it is heating but the temperature stays at 16C the inlet water temperature. Do you have an idea if it is wiring or heating element? Any schematics on how to access that part of the machine? I opened it machine and all that I could access seemed to be fine, but the heating elements are further inside.
 

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JasperB

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Do you have an idea if it is wiring or heating element?
It is most likely caused by a failed thermal cutoff switch. This happens quite often. Repair manuals can be found at brewieforum.net.

I would suggest either replacing it with a higher rated thermostat, or (at your own risk, it's a last resort fail safe) bypass the whole switch.

Also, your tubing could use some cleaning, cycling some pbw and oxi overnight at 60° (use developer mode, or brewmaster mode if you're using ReBrewie) will often make the tubing crystal clear again.
 

JPAPA

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It is most likely caused by a failed thermal cutoff switch. This happens quite often. Repair manuals can be found at .

I would suggest either replacing it with a higher rated thermostat, or (at your own risk, it's a last resort fail safe) bypass the whole switch.

Also, your tubing could use some cleaning, cycling some pbw and oxi overnight at 60° (use developer mode, or brewmaster mode if you're using ReBrewie) will often make the tubing crystal clear again.
Hello Jasper, Thank you for your suggestions. Can you give me a reference or link to the thermostat and for the high temperature wiring and connections?
 

JasperB

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Hello Jasper, Thank you for your suggestions. Can you give me a reference or link to the thermostat and for the high temperature wiring and connections?
Try Brewie Community Forum - Login , please note the parts listed are for 120v units.
If it's a 230v unit you may be able to safely re-use the existing wiring (as the higher voltage also means lower amperage). If you would like to replace the thermostat switch you'll also need a different thermostat switch, rated for 230v/[email protected] (the 240v heater is rated at 8 amps)

If you're going to repair the Brewie i would recommend to replace the thermostat and improve the wiring/connections for the other heater as well.

If its a 120v unit and you're willing to install a 240v outlet, it's also possible to convert the Brewie to 240v by only replacing the heaters and thermostats. As far as i know all other components in 120v models (low voltage power supply, wiring and solid state relays) should already be rated for 240v, be sure to check this before proceeding.
 

JPAPA

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Try Brewie Community Forum - Login , please note the parts listed are for 120v units.
If it's a 230v unit you may be able to safely re-use the existing wiring (as the higher voltage also means lower amperage). If you would like to replace the thermostat switch you'll also need a different thermostat switch, rated for 230v/[email protected] (the 240v heater is rated at 8 amps)

If you're going to repair the Brewie i would recommend to replace the thermostat and improve the wiring/connections for the other heater as well.

If its a 120v unit and you're willing to install a 240v outlet, it's also possible to convert the Brewie to 240v by only replacing the heaters and thermostats. As far as i know all other components in 120v models (low voltage power supply, wiring and solid state relays) should already be rated for 240v, be sure to check this before proceeding.
Thank you Jasper. I will do so.
 
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