Brew Kettle Hardware

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Well-Known Member
Jun 19, 2016
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First off, I have a terrible history with getting hardware right. For every connection I have in my brew setup, it's probably taken 3 trips to the hardware store and countless random purchases of random fittings that don't work.
Attached is a photo of my mash tun's outlet. What usually attaches to it, from the outside is a 1/2" adapter that then screws into a valve.

After some discussion, I decided I need to add a diptube to the interior of the mash tun. Because the kettle is older and not a big brandname, I'm going to have to rig something up that I'm assuming would need to screw into the outlet. The problem is that I can't seem to find an adapter that's male 1/2" and will screw completely through the outlet (I'm assuming because it's tapered). I can screw in from either direction but it tightens up when it reaches the other side.

Does anyone with more hardware experience know if there's a non-welding solution to that?
I feel like I just need something that screws completely through and provides an end for the diptube and the output valve to screw unto.
And that's why this forum rules.
Thanks. I've dug through and I think I even emailed them a while back describing what I was looking for. I don't think they had a solution.
That is totally what I need... or maybe

Either way, thanks! I didn't even think to look for something like that.
Gotcha. I saw weldless and thought it meant that I don't need to weld anything. Like I said, I'm not great at hardware.
It looks the same to me though... you pull the diptube through and then screw the interior threaded section into the kettle and then you have an external threaded piece for the valve to attach to. Is that not how it would work?
A "weldless" fitting forms a seal on the inside of the kettle with a gasket.
The gasket only works if there's pressure applied to it.
A nut on the outside of the kettle applies this pressure.

There are two potential issues with using that with your setup:
1. The nipple needs to thread all the way through your coupler (it might, but I'm not sure)
2. You need enough space on the nipple to thread the full way through the inside gasket, the coupler, the outside washer and nut, and then have enough space to attach to your valve. It likely won't.

You have a welded port, so you don't need a "weldless" fitting for it.
Here's another idea: plug the existing hole with whatever you have, and drill a new hole that will accommodate something you can get from Brewhardware.

The hard part is drilling the hole--everything else is child's play. If you have a step drill that will produce a 13/16" or 7/8" hole, you're golden. Or some other way to drill it.

I've used a step drill several times to put holes in kettles into which I installed the weldless fittings Brewhardware sells. The beauty is you can buy fittings from Bobby that already have the dip tube arrangement ready to go, like this one which includes the ball valve you'll want:

In fact, I helped a buddy put one of those in his kettle a couple months ago. Drill the hole, file down any burrs, and good to go.

If you don't have the equipment to drill the hole--the step drills aren't cheap--maybe there's a metalworking shop nearby who for a six-pack of beer, or $10 or something, would drill it for you. Or maybe get one of these:

I did the local metal shop thing with some larger holes for the weldless TriClamp bulkheads Bobby sells. Had a local outfit drill a couple of them for me, which cost something like $15 or so, IIRC. Not a bad price at all.

And as far as Bobby being a good guy to work with...I added up all my orders over the years and I've bought something like $1700-worth of stuff from him. That suggests two things: I may be an idiot when it comes to money, and that there must be some reason I keep going back to him.
Not a bad idea either! I'm always at the point of nearly just buying a new kettle because this one is so weird but it's the top kettle to an old morebeer tippy dump system, so if I get rid of it... no more tippy, which is kind of nice.
The real important question is what are the specs you need for the inside diptube? Does it have to reach the center to go through a false bottom or does this live under a taller false bottom. If you just need a shorty diptube, this valve would work great.

It's technically a weldless setup but when you remove the locknut it will thread in to your bung there. The diptube is press fit into the bore.

I'm hoping to cut the legs down on the false bottom and have the diptube go through the false bottom but I haven't done it yet. I want to make sure I have all the parts together before cutting holes in things :)
But yeah, that also looks like a solid solution.