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I'll be interested to hear the results of the pH tests. My mash and end of sparge pH for the tart beer were both right at target (5.3ish). I didn't take a reading of the final beer though.

There's some info going around that kveik gives a little more acid compared to traditional strains. One brewery I know that brews quite a bit of kveik-fermented beer actually adds buffering salts post boil prior to fermentation in order to counteract the final acidic pH. I'm just curious if Oslo is especially susceptible to acidifying. I haven't noticed the tartness with Voss or Hornindal...although, those beers were generally hoppier so maybe the perceived acid blended better with those brews (acid complements fruitiness) compared to the german-like "lagers" I've been trying to do with Oslo. In fact, lager strains themselves typically result in an even higher final pH than ale strains.
 
Well, no abnormal growth on the media at all from my Oslo package...

IMG_3984.JPG


However, as I had predicted, the final beer pH was much lower than my other beers...

Red ale - US04 yeast: pH 4.09
Blonde ale - Nottingham ale yeast: pH 4.05
SMaSH pale ale - Voss kveik: pH 3.90
Rosemary IPA - Voss kveik: pH 4.29
Pale ale - Wy1056: pH 4.28
Festbier - Oslo: pH 3.79

Just remember, pH is logarithmic. Oslo definitely came in the lowest, and interestingly so did my other kveik (Voss). The IPA with Voss I would assume isn't as low of a pH because it was dry-hopped (hops will increase final pH). I would also assume I didn't pick up the SMaSH as being overly tart since it played well with the citrus/orange character of the amarillo hops I used.

The next time I open one of my Oslo Festbiers I will try to micro-dose with some bicarb just to see if that changes anything flavorwise (although, pH and salt adjustments should definitely be done prior to fermentation to avoid 'minerally' flavors...but we'll see!).

I have very soft water, so I would assume I don't have enough buffering capacity to fight the drastic pH decreases from Oslo (or other kveiks? when not dry-hopping). My theory is that the so-called tartness that some people are getting is from this. The next time I decide to brew with Oslo I will either 1.) add some bicarb post-boil/prior to pitch (no idea how much), 2.) brew a dry-hopped beer to counteract the pH, or 3.) try a lower fermentation temp (perhaps Oslo may throw acid differently at varying temperatures?).
 
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Well, no abnormal growth on the media at all from my Oslo package...

View attachment 639970

However, as I had predicted, the final beer pH was much lower than my other beers...

Red ale - US04 yeast: pH 4.09
Blonde ale - Nottingham ale yeast: pH 4.05
SMaSH pale ale - Voss kveik: pH 3.90
Rosemary IPA - Voss kveik: pH 4.29
Pale ale - Wy1056: pH 4.28
Festbier - Oslo: pH 3.79

Just remember, pH is logarithmic (pH of 3.8 is twice as acidic as pH of 3.9). Oslo definitely came in the lowest, and interestingly so did my other kveik (Voss). The IPA with Voss I would assume isn't as low of a pH because it was dry-hopped (hops will increase final pH). I would also assume I didn't pick up the SMaSH as being overly tart since it played well with the citrus/orange character of the amarillo hops I used.

The next time I open one of my Oslo Festbiers I will try to micro-dose with some bicarb just to see if that changes anything flavorwise (although, pH and salt adjustments should definitely be done prior to fermentation to avoid 'minerally' flavors...but we'll see!).

I have very soft water, so I would assume I don't have enough buffering capacity to fight the drastic pH decreases from Oslo (or other kveiks? when not dry-hopping). My theory is that the so-called tartness that some people are getting is from this. The next time I decide to brew with Oslo I will either 1.) add some bicarb post-boil/prior to pitch (no idea how much), 2.) brew a dry-hopped beer to counteract the pH, or 3.) try a lower fermentation temp (perhaps Oslo may throw acid differently at varying temperatures?).

These same results are mentioned by Long Beach Beer Lab on Experimental Brewing Podcast using other Kveik strains as well.
 
the final beer pH was much lower than my other beers...

Red ale - US04 yeast: pH 4.09
Blonde ale - Nottingham ale yeast: pH 4.05
SMaSH pale ale - Voss kveik: pH 3.90
Rosemary IPA - Voss kveik: pH 4.29
Pale ale - Wy1056: pH 4.28
Festbier - Oslo: pH 3.79

There's a range of factors to consider, but per Murphys :
The acceptable range of pH for cask conditioned beers is 3·7 – 4·1

So to British eyes your problem is that Voss and 1056 aren't making your beer acid enough!

While national tastes play their part, I suspect that some of the problems people have are a combination of excessive force carbonation introducing too much carbonic acid, coupled with RO water without enough salts to buffer it. Don't forget that kveiks have evolved without ever seeing a cylinder of CO2, they've adapted to an environment where the beer is all either cask- or bottle-conditioned.
 
Thanks for the info! One minor point, I think 3.8 should be ~26% more acidic than 3.9, as 1.26^10=10

Yeah, totally right...Forgetting all my gen chem haha. I just removed that blurb.

So to British eyes your problem is that Voss and 1056 aren't making your beer acid enough!

While national tastes play their part, I suspect that some of the problems people have are a combination of excessive force carbonation introducing too much carbonic acid, coupled with RO water without enough salts to buffer it. Don't forget that kveiks have evolved without ever seeing a cylinder of CO2, they've adapted to an environment where the beer is all either cask- or bottle-conditioned.

Well, the beer that used voss with a very small dry hop was 3.9, whereas the one with a lot of hops and a large dry hop was higher, at 4.29. Most hoppy beer pHs I've seen are generally quite high (around 4.3ish to 4.6ish). I'm not sure if it is the hops interacting with the yeast making them produce less acid or the hops themselves changing the pH but it seems to be a factor.

In regards to appropriate pH I believe that I've read Gordon Strong recommends around pH 4.4 or below. In fact, lager yeasts often produce pHs in the mid 4s. My whole point in doing this was because I can taste how acidic my Oslo Festbier is, and it is not good for the style. One thing that I still can't wrap my brain around is the fact that my final gravity sample prior to bottling tasted amazing! I wish I had a pH from that sample...to my senses the acidification happened while bottle conditioning, and I know dissolved CO2 will not have that great of an affect.
 
Hops increase pH, especially when dry hopping.

4.5 or below if recommended for shelf stability purposes.

Pretty sure my pitch of Oslo was infected somehow. Not saying that it wasn’t my fault but I’ve never encountered flavors/aromas like this in over 300 batches of beer I’ve made. The easiest way to describe it is plastic. The other pouch I bought at the same time produced a very similar flavor/aroma brewed by someone else using completely different gear/water/grains/etc.
 
So I just cracked open another Oslo festbier original pH of 3.79 to see what increasing the pH did to it. I mixed up a bunch of Na bicarb in a small glass of water and used a pipette to introduce doses of about 10 drops at a time. Each dose bumped it up about 0.1-0.2 pH. I tasted after each addition, and as the pH went up the aroma and flavor noticeably improved! I stopped dosing once I got to pH 4.68 (upper end of what beers would naturally finish at). But I was happy with how it tasted even at that high of a pH. I had a control sample sitting next to me that was undosed, and man, this thing is way better at pH 4.68 compared to 3.79! It's still a bit "minerally", but I bet if I were to have buffered a bit prior to pitching Oslo this would have been a better beer!

I guess I have to hand out small packets of pre-measured Na bicarb whenever I give out a bottle! lol
 
So I just cracked open another Oslo festbier original pH of 3.79 to see what increasing the pH did to it. I mixed up a bunch of Na bicarb in a small glass of water and used a pipette to introduce doses of about 10 drops at a time. Each dose bumped it up about 0.1-0.2 pH. I tasted after each addition, and as the pH went up the aroma and flavor noticeably improved! I stopped dosing once I got to pH 4.68 (upper end of what beers would naturally finish at). But I was happy with how it tasted even at that high of a pH. I had a control sample sitting next to me that was undosed, and man, this thing is way better at pH 4.68 compared to 3.79! It's still a bit "minerally", but I bet if I were to have buffered a bit prior to pitching Oslo this would have been a better beer!

I guess I have to hand out small packets of pre-measured Na bicarb whenever I give out a bottle! lol
That's really interesting. I can't do any experiments with mine since I already added 32oz tart cherry and 32oz cranberry juice to my 5 gallon keg. It tastes amazing with the fruit since it works well with the tartness.

Thanks for doing all the ph testing and research into this. I always start with RO water and build up my profile from that. I'll have to make sure i don't treat water the same way I do for most beers when i'm fermenting with Oslo.
 
Hops increase pH, especially when dry hopping.

4.5 or below if recommended for shelf stability purposes.

Pretty sure my pitch of Oslo was infected somehow. Not saying that it wasn’t my fault but I’ve never encountered flavors/aromas like this in over 300 batches of beer I’ve made. The easiest way to describe it is plastic. The other pouch I bought at the same time produced a very similar flavor/aroma brewed by someone else using completely different gear/water/grains/etc.

I also got a bad plastic flavor/aroma off of it. Followed my normal brewing practices, adjusted pH etc. Beer was 50/50 Pilsner and 2 Row, noble hops, fermented at 93. Finished at 1.000 in 3 days.

I thought maybe it was somehow chlorophenol, but I haven't really trained on that flavor/aroma so I can't be sure, I haven't experienced in my beers before. I can say I haven't experienced this flavor/aroma in any other brew I have done and to me it is pretty unpleasant.
 
I also got a bad plastic flavor/aroma off of it. Followed my normal brewing practices, adjusted pH etc. Beer was 50/50 Pilsner and 2 Row, noble hops, fermented at 93. Finished at 1.000 in 3 days.

I thought maybe it was somehow chlorophenol, but I haven't really trained on that flavor/aroma so I can't be sure, I haven't experienced in my beers before. I can say I haven't experienced this flavor/aroma in any other brew I have done and to me it is pretty unpleasant.

Granted it was using Voss, but i had a similar experience with an awful tasting beer. I treat with campden and follow my usual process but i got an awful plastic/cleaner type taste. If it was an infection it was killed easily since it hasnt popped up in the fermentation keg.
 
Granted it was using Voss, but i had a similar experience with an awful tasting beer. I treat with campden and follow my usual process but i got an awful plastic/cleaner type taste. If it was an infection it was killed easily since it hasnt popped up in the fermentation keg.

It seems like quite a few people have gotten plastic/rubber flavors when not using enough nutrients (stressed yeast create more sulfur compounds). Though, I hear more anecdotes of this happening with Hornindal than other kveiks.
 
It seems like quite a few people have gotten plastic/rubber flavors when not using enough nutrients (stressed yeast create more sulfur compounds). Though, I hear more anecdotes of this happening with Hornindal than other kveiks.

I used Servomyces in mine to no avail, which nutrients are people typically using?
 
So I just cracked open another Oslo festbier original pH of 3.79 to see what increasing the pH did to it. I mixed up a bunch of Na bicarb in a small glass of water and used a pipette to introduce doses of about 10 drops at a time. Each dose bumped it up about 0.1-0.2 pH. I tasted after each addition, and as the pH went up the aroma and flavor noticeably improved! I stopped dosing once I got to pH 4.68 (upper end of what beers would naturally finish at). But I was happy with how it tasted even at that high of a pH. I had a control sample sitting next to me that was undosed, and man, this thing is way better at pH 4.68 compared to 3.79! It's still a bit "minerally", but I bet if I were to have buffered a bit prior to pitching Oslo this would have been a better beer!

I guess I have to hand out small packets of pre-measured Na bicarb whenever I give out a bottle! lol

I am thinking of using oslo for a festbier, any idea how much na bicarb to use per 5 gallons pre yeast pitch?
 
I am thinking of using oslo for a festbier, any idea how much na bicarb to use per 5 gallons pre yeast pitch?

I'm not even sure you have to...there are still so many unknown factors and I'm waiting on some research data from Richard Preiss (Escarpment Labs) and Levi Fried (Long Beach Beer Lab). If you feel like buffering, Levi mentions he adds 1000 grams of sodium bicarb, calcium chloride, and calcium carbonate to his 10 bbl batches. I'm not even sure if that is each or total. If I were to buffer, I would probably start with about 1-2 grams/gal of sodium bicarb prior to pitch and see where it gets me.
 
It seems like quite a few people have gotten plastic/rubber flavors when not using enough nutrients (stressed yeast create more sulfur compounds). Though, I hear more anecdotes of this happening with Hornindal than other kveiks.
I have definitely experienced the reported plastic/rubber flavors from Hornindal. Ended up dumping a few batches after some experiments with it testing against Ferm temps and pitch rates. Oslo had that same plastic/rubber twang.
 
It seems like quite a few people have gotten plastic/rubber flavors when not using enough nutrients (stressed yeast create more sulfur compounds). Though, I hear more anecdotes of this happening with Hornindal than other kveiks.



Anecdotal, but I tried to use some of the Oslo to try my hand at Skeeter pee. Even used a bit more nutrient than the recipe suggested and less sugar for a lower og. Stalled out at 1.030 (from 1.060) and sulfur hell. Smelled like death. Tried to add even more nutrient and Energizer but I think the yeast had died or just refused to ferment. Had to toss that batch.

Tried out a fruit beer (cream ale with 1gal tart cherry juice no preservatives and 3lbs frozen and thawed cherries.) Stalled out at 1.018 (from around 1.050) and no sulfur tastes. Tastes like what I wanted but sweeter. Still drinkable because it's a fruit.

Did a cream ale (1.004 fg and absolutely delicious) a pale (1.008 and also delicious.) Both grain to glass in 7 days (could be 5 or 6 with no cold crash and aggressive force carbing)

I'm loving this for all grain beer. Stellar yeast. Extremely fast and clean. But idk why I'm not having any luck getting it to ferment simple sugars? That seems like it should be easier on the yeast, honestly

I'm a beginner but I've been following directions and idk what it could be. Maybe the acidity thing people were talking about? Lemon and cherry juice are acidic and the amounts are fine for normal yeast but since Oslo lowers the pH itself it pushes it too low?
 
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Anecdotal, but I tried to use some of the Oslo to try my hand at Skeeter pee. Even used a bit more nutrient than the recipe suggested and less sugar for a lower og. Stalled out at 1.030 (from 1.060) and sulfur hell. Smelled like death. Tried to add even more nutrient and Energizer but I think the yeast had died or just refused to ferment. Had to toss that batch.

Tried out a fruit beer (cream ale with 1gal tart cherry juice no preservatives and 3lbs frozen and thawed cherries.) Stalled out at 1.018 (from around 1.050) and no sulfur tastes. Tastes like what I wanted but sweeter. Still drinkable because it's a fruit.

Did a cream ale (1.004 fg and absolutely delicious) a pale (1.008 and also delicious.) Both grain to glass in 7 days (could be 5 or 6 with no cold crash and aggressive force carbing)

I'm loving this for all grain beer. Stellar yeast. Extremely fast and clean. But idk why I'm not having any luck getting it to ferment simple sugars? That seems like it should be easier on the yeast, honestly

I'm a beginner but I've been following directions and idk what it could be. Maybe the acidity thing people were talking about? Lemon and cherry juice are acidic and the amounts are fine for normal yeast but since Oslo lowers the pH itself it pushes it too low?


I used Oslo in an apricot mead and it took it from 1.095 to 0.998. I didn't use any temp control but had it sitting in my office that usually hovers between 75-80'F this time of year. Tastes and smells fantastic. I'm not sure why you're having issues with it fermenting simple sugars.
 
I used Oslo in an apricot mead and it took it from 1.095 to 0.998. I didn't use any temp control but had it sitting in my office that usually hovers between 75-80'F this time of year. Tastes and smells fantastic. I'm not sure why you're having issues with it fermenting simple sugars.


Can you let me know your ingredients and any additives and steps you used? Mine is making great beer but it's just shitting out on everything else and I don't have any idea why. Warm, lots of nutrients, lots of aeration, Energizer. Treating my water the same as I do for my beer. Like I said I'm new and I could totally just pick up another yeast for those things but I really like the speed and that I don't have to worry about temps with Oslo.
 
Can you let me know your ingredients and any additives and steps you used? And how long it took? Mine is making great beer but it's just pooping out on everything else and I don't have any idea why. Warm, lots of nutrients, lots of aeration, Energizer. Treating my water the same as I do for my beer. Like I said I'm new and I could totally just pick up another yeast for those things but I really like the speed and that I don't have to worry about temps with Oslo.
 
Can you let me know your ingredients and any additives and steps you used? Mine is making great beer but it's just poopyting out on everything else and I don't have any idea why. Warm, lots of nutrients, lots of aeration, Energizer. Treating my water the same as I do for my beer. Like I said I'm new and I could totally just pick up another yeast for those things but I really like the speed and that I don't have to worry about temps with Oslo.

Code:
Ingredients:
------------
Amt              Name                                             Type          #          %/IBU         Volume       
1.75 gal         Distilled Water                                  Water         1          -             -             
1 lbs 10.0 oz    Fruit - Apricot [Steep] (0.0 SRM)                Adjunct       2          18.2 %        0.18 gal     
1 lbs 5.0 oz     Fruit - Apricot [Primary] (0.0 SRM)              Adjunct       3          14.7 %        0.15 gal     
1.25 tsp         Pectic Enzyme (Primary)                          Other         4          -             -             
0.50 tsp         Yeast Nutrient (Primary)                         Other         5          -             -             
0.25 tsp         Citric Acid (Primary)                            Other         6          -             -             
0.25 tsp         Malic Acid (Primary)                             Other         7          -             -             
6 lbs            Honey [Primary] (1.0 SRM)                        Sugar         8          67.1 %        0.52 gal     
1.0 pkg          Oslo Kveik (Bootleg Biology #BBOSL)              Yeast         9          -             -             
2.50 Items       Campden Tablets (Primary)                        Water Agent   10         -             -

Notes:
------
Used 617g of pureed apricot and 760g halved apricots in primary.

Using Tonsa 3.0 SNA schedule. Total of ~8g of Fermaid-o spread into 4 additions.

Timeline:

7/22/19 @ 8:30am - pitched decanted oslo starter (800ml before decanting)
7/22/19 @ 4:00pm - added ~2g of Fermaid-o (1/2 tsp) and degassed. Already a heafty krausen had formed
7/22/19 @ 8:15pm - degassed

7/23/19 @ 6:15am - added ~2g of Fermaid-o (1/2 tsp) and degassed.
7/23/19 @ 2:45pm - added ~2g of Fermaid-o (1/2 tsp) and degassed.
7/23/19 @ 9:00pm - degassed

7/24/19 @ 6:45am - degassed. Still some CO2 release but not as much as before. Will probably take a gravity reading later today and determine if I need the final fermaid-o addition.

7/29/19 @ 7:00am - removed fruit bag

8/26/19 - Racked to secondary carboy with 1 tsp potassium sorbate and 2 crushed campden tablets.

I've been keeping notes of the process here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/kveik-mead.667291/
 
Code:
Ingredients:
------------
Amt              Name                                             Type          #          %/IBU         Volume      
1.75 gal         Distilled Water                                  Water         1          -             -            
1 lbs 10.0 oz    Fruit - Apricot [Steep] (0.0 SRM)                Adjunct       2          18.2 %        0.18 gal    
1 lbs 5.0 oz     Fruit - Apricot [Primary] (0.0 SRM)              Adjunct       3          14.7 %        0.15 gal    
1.25 tsp         Pectic Enzyme (Primary)                          Other         4          -             -            
0.50 tsp         Yeast Nutrient (Primary)                         Other         5          -             -            
0.25 tsp         Citric Acid (Primary)                            Other         6          -             -            
0.25 tsp         Malic Acid (Primary)                             Other         7          -             -            
6 lbs            Honey [Primary] (1.0 SRM)                        Sugar         8          67.1 %        0.52 gal    
1.0 pkg          Oslo Kveik (Bootleg Biology #BBOSL)              Yeast         9          -             -            
2.50 Items       Campden Tablets (Primary)                        Water Agent   10         -             -

Notes:
------
Used 617g of pureed apricot and 760g halved apricots in primary.

Using Tonsa 3.0 SNA schedule. Total of ~8g of Fermaid-o spread into 4 additions.

Timeline:

7/22/19 @ 8:30am - pitched decanted oslo starter (800ml before decanting)
7/22/19 @ 4:00pm - added ~2g of Fermaid-o (1/2 tsp) and degassed. Already a heafty krausen had formed
7/22/19 @ 8:15pm - degassed

7/23/19 @ 6:15am - added ~2g of Fermaid-o (1/2 tsp) and degassed.
7/23/19 @ 2:45pm - added ~2g of Fermaid-o (1/2 tsp) and degassed.
7/23/19 @ 9:00pm - degassed

7/24/19 @ 6:45am - degassed. Still some CO2 release but not as much as before. Will probably take a gravity reading later today and determine if I need the final fermaid-o addition.

7/29/19 @ 7:00am - removed fruit bag

8/26/19 - Racked to secondary carboy with 1 tsp potassium sorbate and 2 crushed campden tablets.

I've been keeping notes of the process here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/kveik-mead.667291/


Thanks man. I'm not exactly sure what's wrong with my process here, but I'll keep trying.
 
I saved some Oslo from a previous beer and I'd like to know what size starter should I make for 1.050 wort? The reason I ask because the yeast was easily 4 months old and pitched directly into the wort. Took off like crazy. So I want to make sure I get the pitch right.
 
I saved some Oslo from a previous beer and I'd like to know what size starter should I make for 1.050 wort? The reason I ask because the yeast was easily 4 months old and pitched directly into the wort. Took off like crazy. So I want to make sure I get the pitch right.


I just used 12 oz Mason jars and usually split that between two batches. Virtually no lag if I let the "starter" start for a day or so and toss it into warm (90-95f) wort. Massive visible yeast growth in 3-4 hours and bubbles in 6-8

I haven't noticed a difference between using a fresh starter and one I've kept in the fridge for a week (and warmed up to room temperature before pitching) either.
 
I just used 12 oz Mason jars and usually split that between two batches. Virtually no lag if I let the "starter" start for a day or so and toss it into warm (90-95f) wort. Massive visible yeast growth in 3-4 hours and bubbles in 6-8

I haven't noticed a difference between using a fresh starter and one I've kept in the fridge for a week (and warmed up to room temperature before pitching) either.

In fact I've been saving maybe 1oz of liquid from the starter and topping the jar up with a bit of the leftover wort from a batch and letting it go for a day, tossing it in the fridge, and using it the next week
 
This basically mimics my experience with Oslo. Floccs insanely fast and cakes itself into my flasks
Oslo is one of the fastest floccing yeasts i've come across. I took a timelapse video of a 500mL starter after 36 hours on the stir plate. This time lapse covers 50 seconds total.

 
A friend and I have started a collection of Norwegian farmhouse type strains, and now have a lot of dried Oslo. If anyone wants a gram or two, I’d love to trade for any of the Kveik strains not listed below. We already have (liquid) Hornindal, Stranda, Voss, Aurland, Framgarden, Tormodgarden, Ebbegarden, Arset, Nornes, and Kveik the World (blend).
 
For me, Oslo has been one of the most unique-looking yeasts I have encountered. It gets super chunky and flocculates really hard. It's also really fun to watch the 'yeast volcanoes' at the bottom of a warm fermenter as it's fermenting.
 
For me, Oslo has been one of the most unique-looking yeasts I have encountered. It gets super chunky and flocculates really hard. It's also really fun to watch the 'yeast volcanoes' at the bottom of a warm fermenter as it's fermenting.
Yeah, that was crazy to watch.
 
A friend and I have started a collection of Norwegian farmhouse type strains, and now have a lot of dried Oslo. If anyone wants a gram or two, I’d love to trade for any of the Kveik strains not listed below. We already have (liquid) Hornindal, Stranda, Voss, Aurland, Framgarden, Tormodgarden, Ebbegarden, Arset, Nornes, and Kveik the World (blend).

I dont have any of the strains you’re looking for, but I can trade some cash for some Oslo..
 
Toward the beginning of this thread there were some questions as to the ABV tolerance of OSLO. There haven't been any answers yet so I thought I'd pitch in.
A while ago I made a barleywine. I took a gallon of wort and boiled it down to extremely high gravity. I measured 1.170, had to do a bit of extra because my hydrometer only goes to 1.160.
I pitched some OSLO and held it at 90°F for ~1.5 weeks, it was bubbling the whole time.
I then proceeded to forget about it for ~2 months.
OSLO crapped out at 1.080, ~11.8% ABV. I didn't do any rigorous oxygenation, so that could contribute to that. However, I think it's reasonable to say the limit is around 12% for a typical composition wort. It still tastes extremely clean, though sickeningly sweet.
 
Toward the beginning of this thread there were some questions as to the ABV tolerance of OSLO. There haven't been any answers yet so I thought I'd pitch in.
A while ago I made a barleywine. I took a gallon of wort and boiled it down to extremely high gravity. I measured 1.170, had to do a bit of extra because my hydrometer only goes to 1.160.
I pitched some OSLO and held it at 90°F for ~1.5 weeks, it was bubbling the whole time.
I then proceeded to forget about it for ~2 months.
OSLO crapped out at 1.080, ~11.8% ABV. I didn't do any rigorous oxygenation, so that could contribute to that. However, I think it's reasonable to say the limit is around 12% for a typical composition wort. It still tastes extremely clean, though sickeningly sweet.

Do you routinely make 1.16 beers? That is ****ing insane. Not a high abv guy myself, but I appreciate your experiment! If I was to a make a beer that high -- no matter the yeast -- I would make sure I had ample nutrients, pitch a ton of yeast , oxygenate after pitch with pure o2 and hit it with o2 again a day or two into the ferment.

Maybe pitch some brett / bugs to funk it up and eat up some of that residual sugar?
 
Do you routinely make 1.16 beers? That is ****ing insane. Not a high abv guy myself, but I appreciate your experiment! If I was to a make a beer that high -- no matter the yeast -- I would make sure I had ample nutrients, pitch a ton of yeast , oxygenate after pitch with pure o2 and hit it with o2 again a day or two into the ferment.

Maybe pitch some brett / bugs to funk it up and eat up some of that residual sugar?
Oh no. What I was saying is I took a small bit of the main batch and boiled it down just to test the limits of the yeast. Main batch was 1.079. This was the first time I've taken anything past 1.100
This only yielded 2 bottles, which I'm probably going to make some friends take a sip of and then pour it down the drain.
It's crazy thick and tastes like an oatmeal raisin cookie with too many raisins.

I thought about pitching some brett but all the brett that's easily available to me has a max ABV of ~11%, so it wouldn't do anything.
 
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