3/16 or 5/16 fittings?

[John Spiegel]

When kegging in the past, I would purge my keg with CO2, open up, put my hose all the way to the bottom, and auto-siphon from my fermenter. Pretty standard. I would love to avoid opening up the keg if at all possible, though. My thinking was to hook up my line from the auto-siphon to a barb that connects to a liquid post. Once the keg has been purged, I was going to attach a spunding valve to the keg to continually release the displaced CO2. My thinking was that this would effectively create a closed transfer.

My issue is that my auto-siphon fits a 5/16 ID hose and I believe my liquid barb is a 3/16 size. I get a small leak. Nothing huge, but definitely something. Am I not cranking on the hose clamp enough, or is a 5/16 barb pretty much the only way to do this effectively?

 

[Sam_92]

If you get a set of disconnects that have the screw on barbs you could use the gas barb that is 5/16s on the liquid side and that would be that right?

 

[Bobby_M]

There's no need for a spunding valve on the receiving keg because a siphon isn't going to make even one PSI and it will be hard to set it low enough to vent.
You can:
1. Put a grey QD on the gas post and dangle a piece of hose into a bucket of water or starsan. This will provide like .25 PSI and give the beer a place to collect if you overflow.
2. Put a grey QD on the gas post and just route a hose back into the top of the fermenter to help displace any air that was going to get sucked in.

Use a 3/8" swivel barb on a black QD equipped with MFL connections. The 5/16 hose will fit more snug.

 

[CascadesBrewer]

Use a 3/8" swivel barb on a black QD equipped with MFL connections. The 5/16 hose will fit more snug.

I might know a place that sells those barbs: Swivel Flare Adapter - 1/4'' FFL x 3/8'' OD hose barb

I do something similar with a 3/8" ID line coming from the spigot on my fermenter to the liquid post on my keg.