Keg tubing and fittings

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hilljack13

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Another one of these threads. I have read over a lot but this is confusing to me and seems like everyone has small things different so I figured I would go ahead and ask...

Looking to purchase lines and disconnects but not sure where to go. I have gone back and forth from Duotight fittings to CMB. The obvious is leaning toward EVA tubing. My main issue is what tubing to used from regulator to keg. I have 5/16 barb on my regulator and secondary. I have read the EVA tubing is a major pain to fit over these larger fittings.

Then there is the question of why not barb fittings when seems like you still have to buy the swivel nut with this? Unless using Duotight converter?

Liquid side is bit easier. Just need to decide on Duotight or other, but it will be the same as the gas. Appreciate any inputs. I'm sure I am overlooking something.
 
Then there is the question of why not barb fittings when seems like you still have to buy the swivel nut with this? Unless using Duotight converter?
I'll start with this one; I've got some of the CMB's with the barbed rather than MFL fittings, but I only use them for my utility lines (cleaning/sanitizing, tranfering etc) where I want maximum flow-rate. Inside my kegerator I only use the MFL's mainly in the event one goes bad or I want to switch things around, it's a lot easier to just take off a swivel nut so I can shove the lines through small spaces, .. as well; when you tighten down the clamps on the barb, owing to the stiffness of the line it's very easy end up with a barbed disconnect angled upside down or some akward angle making you have to twist the line to connect a keg..with swivel nuts, you can just hold the diconnect in the correct orientation for use while you tighten down the nut.
I have 5/16 barb on my regulator and secondary. I have read the EVA tubing is a major pain to fit over these larger fittings.
You can make a simple pigtail using a short piece of 1/4" tube shoved on your 5/16" regulator output with one of these on the other end: 1/4 Male FLARE (MFL) to 1/4'' Hose Barb and attach a duotight>MFL adater to it, the same as on the other end if you want to use MFL disconnects rather than duotight; Here's one size: Push Fit Fitting (Duotight) - 1/4'' FFL x 5/16 Tube (...or you can do it the hard way like I did: 1/4" Swivel-nut > 3mm EVABarrier > 6.35mm Monotight connector > Duotight Shank )
EDIT: Sorry, I had a wrong link to the 1/4">MFL adaptor..just fixed it.
 
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Since I just had to log in and correct my link ^, I might as well add here: Probably 95% of those who go the all duotight/EVABarrier route are perfectly content with their perfectly performing system...I fell into the 5% who ran into a leaking issue 3 times, only one of which I can be certain was down to a bad part..the other 2 were probably me, so while I do love the EVABarrier, I need clamps on barbs for my personal peace of mind. If you make sure to use the retaining-clips with duotights, you're probably good to go.
:mug:
 
Here is what I am thinking, for sake of going an easier route (in my mind)
- duotight connector at 8mm with 4 ID/ 8OD on liquid
- duotight connector at 9.5mm with 6.3 ID /9.5 OD on gas. Obviously I will heat to the 6.3 (1/4") tube to go over the 5/16 secondary regulator.
 
Gas goes through tiny lines just fine.

I like EVAbarrier and Duotight because of short lines (when coupled with Kegland flow control disconnects), ease of assembly and disassembly, and O2 exclusion. And they work with Blowtie spunding valves.

The fittings have weak threads, though.
 
Another one of these threads. I have read over a lot but this is confusing to me and seems like everyone has small things different so I figured I would go ahead and ask...

Looking to purchase lines and disconnects but not sure where to go. I have gone back and forth from Duotight fittings to CMB. The obvious is leaning toward EVA tubing. My main issue is what tubing to used from regulator to keg. I have 5/16 barb on my regulator and secondary. I have read the EVA tubing is a major pain to fit over these larger fittings.

Then there is the question of why not barb fittings when seems like you still have to buy the swivel nut with this? Unless using Duotight converter?

Liquid side is bit easier. Just need to decide on Duotight or other, but it will be the same as the gas. Appreciate any inputs. I'm sure I am overlooking something.
May I ask what is stopping you from changing out the barb on your regulator? I have mine swapped out for a 1/4" MNPT x 3/8" pus to connect John guest fitting. The barbs on regulators are usually 1/4" NPT and you can swap them out for whatever you like.
 
EVA barrier on the beer side. duotight or similar fittings, easy to instal and remove for cleaning and swapping lines, etc.

gas side? who cares? use whatever you already have or not. All that matter on the gas side is that it does not leak.
 
May I ask what is stopping you from changing out the barb on your regulator? I have mine swapped out for a 1/4" MNPT x 3/8" pus to connect John guest fitting. The barbs on regulators are usually 1/4" NPT and you can swap them out for whatever you like.
I thought about it but didn't feel comfortable trying. For reference I have the kegco brand. It looks like it would come off easy but the part it is threaded in also is threaded into the body. I figured I would mess it up and end have both parts removed.
 
I assume actual length does not matter as long as it fits? 3-4" should do it?
Here is what I am thinking, for sake of going an easier route (in my mind)
- duotight connector at 8mm with 4 ID/ 8OD on liquid
- duotight connector at 9.5mm with 6.3 ID /9.5 OD on gas. Obviously I will heat to the 6.3 (1/4") tube to go over the 5/16 secondary regulator.
Yup... The short piece you use for a pigtail can just be any kind of gas line, if you have a few inches of 5/16" gas line you could get the 3/8"barb>MFL 1/4 Male FLARE (MFL) to 3/8'' Hose Barb and avoid the heating and stretching; something like this would make a nice fit: Ultra Barrier™ Gas PVC Free Tubing - 5/16 in. | MoreBeer
May I ask what is stopping you from changing out the barb on your regulator? I have mine swapped out for a 1/4" MNPT x 3/8" pus to connect John guest fitting. The barbs on regulators are usually 1/4" NPT and you can swap them out for whatever you like.
Nice if you can do it.. On my own Taprite regulators, removing the barb makes the check-valve fall apart..from the look of the Kegco pictures, it seems to be the same type.. That could just be me though... If it is changable, might as well just replace it with a 1/4" MFL output valve; 6600CA Dunno if that's compatible with a Kegco, or if they sell their own.
As you can see from the responses, everyone has their own comfort level and none are 'incorrect'. Always good to have options.
:mug:
 
[raises hand]

O2 ingress is O2 ingress, whether via the beer line or the gas line.
May not amount to the same level, but it's still there - if you let it be...

Cheers!
Thanks!! I keep forgetting that as I continue to try and find uses for my old red Ultraflex gas line... I hate throwing things out. :p
I still haven't cemented O2 exclusion in all the details yet....Replacing my whole output valve with an MFL-out one has just climbed my personal priority list unless I can manage to swag 1/4" EVABarrier over the output barb on my taprite....might be a bit of a stretch.
:mug:
 
[raises hand]

O2 ingress is O2 ingress, whether via the beer line or the gas line.
May not amount to the same level, but it's still there - if you let it be...

Cheers!
I got old school vinyl or pvc lines on the gas side. Bevlex I think or something like that. Isn't that what has been used for years? decades? In thousands of bars?

Does not mean there is not better options...but wasn't that what was used and is still widely used?
 
Bevlex 200 was the industry standard beer line for a long time, but I don't know what was commonly used on the gas line side. Probably that red PVC line I see in many pictures of commercial installations. But just like beer lines it's unlikely anyone paid any attention to gas line resistance to O2 ingress "back then"...

Cheers!
 
I thought about it but didn't feel comfortable trying. For reference I have the kegco brand. It looks like it would come off easy but the part it is threaded in also is threaded into the body. I figured I would mess it up and end have both parts removed.
Replace the whole shutoff valve. They are generally 1/4" NPT for the CO2 regulators that homebrewers use. Usually around $9-12. Most will also have an integral check valve. Easier than getting just the barb fitting off the shutoff as the shutoff bodies tend to be soft. I've tried that a few times but it usually gets mangled. I have replaced the shutoff valves on several though without problems. You'll want a shutoff valve that has 1/4" male NPT on one side and 1/4" MFL on the other. Then off the 1/4" flare on the valve, a 1/4" female flare to ptc in whatever size outer diameter Evabarrier tubing you are using.

You also mentioned a secondary? If you have a secondary regulator and there is a barb on the shutoff, same deal. And if it has a barb on the incoming, take the barb fitting off and put on a 1/4"npt x flare on it or even better, a 1/4"x ptc adapter. The barb fitting coming into the secondary will come off with a little elbow grease. You can use teflon tape on the NPT to NPT fittings, but I'd recommend getting the teflon tape for gas which is yellow.
 
I thought about it but didn't feel comfortable trying. For reference I have the kegco brand. It looks like it would come off easy but the part it is threaded in also is threaded into the body. I figured I would mess it up and end have both parts removed.
I've done about 4 of those for friends, you can unscrew the barb from the valve and replace it with whatever fitting you like, just make sure to use thread seal tape or pipe dope. If you aren't comfortable with this route, plenty of other suggestions have been made here, best of luck on your adventure!
 
I've done about 4 of those for friends, you can unscrew the barb from the valve and replace it with whatever fitting you like, just make sure to use thread seal tape or pipe dope. If you aren't comfortable with this route, plenty of other suggestions have been made here, best of luck on your adventure!
Great idea in general, but a lot of regulators have a bevel or groove of some kind on the inside for a spring and ball for the check-valve and you can't both replace the barb and keep the check-valve intact.
 
I've done about 4 of those for friends, you can unscrew the barb from the valve and replace it with whatever fitting you like, just make sure to use thread seal tape or pipe dope. If you aren't comfortable with this route, plenty of other suggestions have been made here, best of luck on your adventure!
The fitting screwed into the shutoff valve is ALMOST always not just a fitting threaded into a ball valve. Many times it is integral to the construction of the valve itself, as the access port to the internal seals as well as half of what squeezes the two seats firmly against the ball. It's perfectly machined for it and some other generic fitting, such as an NPT to male flare is rarely going to fit that requirement. The whole valve is less than $10 so it's better to buy that than find out you just wasted $4 plus shipping for a fitting that doesn't do it.
 
The fitting screwed into the shutoff valve is ALMOST always not just a fitting threaded into a ball valve. Many times it is integral to the construction of the valve itself, as the access port to the internal seals as well as half of what squeezes the two seats firmly against the ball. It's perfectly machined for it and some other generic fitting, such as an NPT to male flare is rarely going to fit that requirement. The whole valve is less than $10 so it's better to buy that than find out you just wasted $4 plus shipping for a fitting that doesn't do it.
Looked back through my past orders, you're right, I did also order a 1/4" npt male x female valve as well. Apologies for the confusion.
 
Looked back through my past orders, you're right, I did also order a 1/4" npt male x female valve as well. Apologies for the confusion.
You did have me wondering if I was just being a brute about it but no problem. Most of the shutoffs I've seen are like the generic replacements. They don't have much of a spot to put a wrench next to the barb fitting. What's there is soft metal. One time I decided to try channel locks on the body but no luck. The OP did say they use a KegCo regulator and those shutoffs do look a little sturdier with a good hex body on the valve. They do sell a regulator ball valve without the barb fitting and looks almost the same except the handle is blue not black like on their other replacement valve with the barb. Seems like removing the barb fitting there might be ok then if it comes off.

https://kegco.com/products/regulato...59595&pr_ref_pid=4658819399819&pr_seq=uniformhttps://kegco.com/products/regulato...99819&pr_ref_pid=4904589459595&pr_seq=uniform
And if the barb fitting did come off, you could probably find the thread size and then an adapter for that thread size to ptc. Kegco only says a 5/16" barb fitting without saying what the threads are, which may be a common NPT size but I don't want to guess at it.
 
You did have me wondering if I was just being a brute about it but no problem. Most of the shutoffs I've seen are like the generic replacements. They don't have much of a spot to put a wrench next to the barb fitting. What's there is soft metal. One time I decided to try channel locks on the body but no luck. The OP did say they use a KegCo regulator and those shutoffs do look a little sturdier with a good hex body on the valve. They do sell a regulator ball valve without the barb fitting and looks almost the same except the handle is blue not black like on their other replacement valve with the barb. Seems like removing the barb fitting there might be ok then if it comes off.

https://kegco.com/products/regulato...59595&pr_ref_pid=4658819399819&pr_seq=uniformhttps://kegco.com/products/regulato...99819&pr_ref_pid=4904589459595&pr_seq=uniform
And if the barb fitting did come off, you could probably find the thread size and then an adapter for that thread size to ptc. Kegco only says a 5/16" barb fitting without saying what the threads are, which may be a common NPT size but I don't want to guess at it.
I grabbed a similar version to these.
Amazon Link
 
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You did have me wondering if I was just being a brute about it but no problem. Most of the shutoffs I've seen are like the generic replacements. They don't have much of a spot to put a wrench next to the barb fitting. What's there is soft metal. One time I decided to try channel locks on the body but no luck. The OP did say they use a KegCo regulator and those shutoffs do look a little sturdier with a good hex body on the valve. They do sell a regulator ball valve without the barb fitting and looks almost the same except the handle is blue not black like on their other replacement valve with the barb. Seems like removing the barb fitting there might be ok then if it comes off.

https://kegco.com/products/regulato...59595&pr_ref_pid=4658819399819&pr_seq=uniformhttps://kegco.com/products/regulato...99819&pr_ref_pid=4904589459595&pr_seq=uniform
And if the barb fitting did come off, you could probably find the thread size and then an adapter for that thread size to ptc. Kegco only says a 5/16" barb fitting without saying what the threads are, which may be a common NPT size but I don't want to guess at it.
Yes, it looks like the Kegco regulator is the one exception as long as it looks like those. You can see that insert that does the compression of the seats. A lot of times, the barb IS that piece.

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