110v Recirculating eBIAB 2.5 gallon batches

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BlakeL said:
How much does the recirculating help the efficiency or is it mainly just for a more consistent temperature?
Click to expand...

Hard to say what impact it has on efficiency. With the element cycling during the mash, there are bound to be hot spots if you don't recirculate, so I have never brewed without recirculating.

For instance--when I fill the kettle with mash water and set the PID, the element is usually powered on for several minutes before I get the pump and tubing hooked up. When I finally power up the pump and start recirculating there is an almost immediate temperature jump on the PID once the water that was sitting near the element is pumped through.
 
Average efficiency that i was seeing before was around 70 75 percent. After i went to herms i am up in the 80's for eff and there are people who are in the mid 90's

Send while squinting at a tiny ass screen.
 
Salpino said:
Many thanks to P-J for the many diagrams he's made for all of the brewers looking to go electric.

My question, as this is my first foray with contactors: is this wired correctly per the original 120v diagram P-J posted (picture #2)?

Hot on the bottom goes to the element. Hot on the top goes to the SSR. I have not wired the hot to the switch yet.

Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...

Hey I was wondering if anyone has confirmed if this picture of the coil setup was right or not? The others look a bit different. I set mine up like this and even when the pid should stop power to the heating element it is still going.

I was wondering if the white cable on the side of the coil should go to the constant bar instead of being looped back around? I ordered the good electronics from auber so I dont think its my SSR, instead i think I wired mine wrong. Help please
 
OneImpBrewery said:
Hey I was wondering if anyone has confirmed if this picture of the coil setup was right or not? The others look a bit different. I set mine up like this and even when the pid should stop power to the heating element it is still going.



I was wondering if the white cable on the side of the coil should go to the constant bar instead of being looped back around? I ordered the good electronics from auber so I dont think its my SSR, instead i think I wired mine wrong. Help please
Click to expand...


I never got a response and moved forward with mine wired exactly as it is shown in my original post. My rig works great. PM me if you want to talk more in detail.
 
Built me one of these units back in January. I am using the Bayou Classic 1124 24-Quart All Purpose Stainless Steel Stockpot with Steam and Boil Basket that I bought from Amazon. To date I've done about 5 batches and really like the temp control and the ease of use with the electric setup. This morning I filled my kettle with water to start a new brew and found water all over the counter. Thinking I had sprung a leak I started looking around the areas where I had my shutoff and element. I found a crack that appears to be a ground down weld seam that goes around the entire pot about an inch from the shutoff. Has anyone ever experienced this or seen it anywhere on this forum.
 
I enjoyed reading through this thread. I have been doing BIAB in small batches already, and I really want to build a set up just like this. My electrical experience is lacking (I have swapped out light fixtures, but that's about it), so I had a few questions.

I want to use the 1650W element, with the option to upgrade to a 2000W element later if the first one is insufficient. I will be using the outlets in my kitchen which are gfci protected and rated for 20 amps according to my breaker panel. By my calculations, the heating element will use 13.75 A (1650W) or 16.67 A (2000W), the pump will use 1.25 A, and then some for the PID.

1. However, it appears the outlets installed are only 15amp outlets (no t-blade option). Would I need to simply swap one of these out for for a 20 amp outlet, or can they still run 20 amps?

2. Do I need to find an extension cord rated for 20 amps, or will a 15 amp extension cord work? I was thinking of using this one, but I don't want to start cutting up such an expensive cord if I don't have to:
http://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-2991-Generator-T-Blade/dp/B000HEC2DW/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1397580095&sr=1-1&keywords=20+amp+extension+cord

This would be the other option:
http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Cable-Outdoor-Extension-Lighted/dp/B001TPFFOG/ref=cm_wl_huc_item

3. Would it be okay to just use 12 AWG wire for everything in the box? Some people referenced using both 12 and 14, but if I could just buy 1 spool of wire for everything that would be nice.

4. How are the SSR and connector attached to the box? I assume just screws and thermal cement, correct?

Thanks for all of the help given in this thread.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I'm assuming you are staying 120v, and I am NOT PJ, so take this with grain of salt.

mrz2010 said:
I want to use the 1650W element, with the option to upgrade to a 2000W element later if the first one is insufficient.
Click to expand...

Just get the 2000w element. If you are going over 3 gal batches, just do it now.

mrz2010 said:
I will be using the outlets in my kitchen which are gfci protected and rated for 20 amps according to my breaker panel. By my calculations, the heating element will use 13.75 A (1650W) or 16.67 A (2000W), the pump will use 1.25 A, and then some for the PID.

1. However, it appears the outlets installed are only 15amp outlets (no t-blade option). Would I need to simply swap one of these out for for a 20 amp outlet, or can they still run 20 amps?
Click to expand...

I think so. To me the idea of the t-blade is to STOP you from plugging in a 20amp device into a 15amp breaker/line. You can still pull 20 amps if the breaker is rated for it. The plugs are not any beefier from what I can see at Ace Hardware.

mrz2010 said:
2. Do I need to find an extension cord rated for 20 amps, or will a 15 amp extension cord work? I was thinking of using this one, but I don't want to start cutting up such an expensive cord if I don't have to:
Click to expand...

I decided to go with 20amp lines. I started with 15amp and it was warm to the touch after a test boil. I didn't like that at all, considering my test was only to reach boil, not for a full brew.

However, I built my cord for cheaper than any premade one. I also needed more length. Get the 12g wire from Ace, get plugs to put on it. Those never got warm.

mrz2010 said:
3. Would it be okay to just use 12 AWG wire for everything in the box? Some people referenced using both 12 and 14, but if I could just buy 1 spool of wire for everything that would be nice.
Click to expand...

It will be ok, but 12g wire is a ***** to bend. And if you bend it wrong it is more difficult to straighten out again. Not sure if that is an issue for you, but my control panel is see through, so it bugs me a lot.

mrz2010 said:
4. How are the SSR and connector attached to the box? I assume just screws and thermal cement, correct?
Click to expand...

You cut a hole out big enough for the SSR. The heat sink is then screwed to the panel. The SSR is screwed onto the heat sink directly, yes with thermal paste. (It isn't cement, it's just a paste, so don't think the paste will hold the SSR in place.)
 
sablesurfer said:
I'm assuming you are staying 120v, and I am NOT PJ, so take this with grain of salt.

....

I decided to go with 20amp lines. I started with 15amp and it was warm to the touch after a test boil. I didn't like that at all, considering my test was only to reach boil, not for a full brew.

However, I built my cord for cheaper than any premade one. I also needed more length. Get the 12g wire from Ace, get plugs to put on it. Those never got warm.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, I am trying to go with a 120v system. You mention that you made your own cord with 12g wire to carry up to 20A, the second option I posted for the power cord is also 12g. I assume that means it would still work with a 20A current even though it says it's rated for 15A. From what I've read, 12g wire can carry 20A without significant heating. So would the amp rating matter as long as the gauge of the wire is correct?
 
Just finished brewing my largest beer yet on this system, 12 lbs of grain for an imperial stout. I could maybe squeeze another pound or two in there but that is about it. My normal efficiency is around 80% but with this big of a beer it went down to 64%. I think next time I'll cap the grain to 10 lbs and use DME for the rest, just makes it easier.

Boy do I love brewing on this system!
 
First, I would like to throw a huge THANK YOU to all who have contributed to this thread. Without all of your ideas, perspectives, questions, and answers I would never have had the chutzpah to dive into a project like this; I'm not new to brewing but I am a ridiculous newb to anything electric.

That said, I have the first of probably three hundred questions...

1-My kitchen is on a 20 amp circuit but the house is old so there's no GFCI. I'm planning to use a 1650 watt element. If I get the standard kind of 15 amp GFCI adapter, will it trip when it's pulling more than 15 amps? If so...

2-Is there any draw back to a 1500 watt element besides it taking longer to get to mash and boil temps?

I apologize if this has already been addressed. I've read through this thread twice but there's a lot of info to digest.

Thanks in advance! :mug:
 
discmonkey said:
First, I would like to throw a huge THANK YOU to all who have contributed to this thread. Without all of your ideas, perspectives, questions, and answers I would never have had the chutzpah to dive into a project like this; I'm not new to brewing but I am a ridiculous newb to anything electric.

That said, I have the first of probably three hundred questions...

1-My kitchen is on a 20 amp circuit but the house is old so there's no GFCI. I'm planning to use a 1650 watt element. If I get the standard kind of 15 amp GFCI adapter, will it trip when it's pulling more than 15 amps? If so...

2-Is there any draw back to a 1500 watt element besides it taking longer to get to mash and boil temps?

I apologize if this has already been addressed. I've read through this thread twice but there's a lot of info to digest.

Thanks in advance! :mug:
Click to expand...

If your kitchen outlet is on a 20-amp breaker with 12awg wire, then you could just replace the outlet with a 20a GFCI one. If it is 14 awg wire, then it is only rated for 15a, your can replace the outlet with a 15a GFCI one, and you should not run anything that will draw more than that.
 
Thanks, jeffmeh! My concern is that the outlet in the kitchen is not grounded at all (the house is from the early 50s so none of the original outlets are grounded).

Can I install a GFCI outlet where there is no ground? I guess the real question is, if I do that will the GFCI perform as expected? My feeling is that it would not work, but my electrical knowledge is admittedly poor at best.
 
My layman's understanding is that you can replace the ungrounded outlet with a GFCI outlet, but code states that you must label the GFCI receptacle with "No Equipment Ground." That said, if it were my system, I would try to figure out a way to ground the outlet, from the main panel or even by grounding to a cold water copper pipe.
 
I'm interested in doing something very similar/identical to this, but I have one question on the controller build. Does one of the buttons act as the overall on/off switch? I'd prefer to plug in without anything being immediately on from the start. Or does it not matter?
 
thelawlost said:
I'm interested in doing something very similar/identical to this, but I have one question on the controller build. Does one of the buttons act as the overall on/off switch? I'd prefer to plug in without anything being immediately on from the start. Or does it not matter?
Click to expand...


Once you plug it in to an outlet there is still nothing powered on. You need to push the buttons to turn on the element power, PID, or pump.
 
P-J said:
jrb03,



I see that you have been a member here for several years and I'm honored to be able to answer your first post.



I spent a few hours this morning drawing a diagram that should fit your needs.

The entire build should fit in the Auber Instruments Project Box.



I suggest that you also order their External Mount Heat Sink for the SSR.

The RTD temp probe could be the Deluxe version of Liquid Tight RTD Sensor. It is well worth the extra $9 for it.



I'm not sure how you plan on supplying the 12V power to your pump. I show a 120V outlet that can be used to plug in a transformer. (Edit: I did a search on greatbreweh and found their pumps. They ship with a 12V plug in transformer so the diagram is good to go for that as well.)



I hope this is of some help to you.





As always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")







Wishing you the best.



P-J
Click to expand...


If P-J is still here, I am looking to use this drawing , but with a second element. I know you have added the second element for others, but I want to use one element in a HLT and one a BK. I was wondering if I could use a three position switch to go HLT-Off-BK so only one element is on. Can I do this off one 120v power source?

Thanks
 
dtfleming said:
If P-J is still here, I am looking to use this drawing , but with a second element. I know you have added the second element for others, but I want to use one element in a HLT and one a BK. I was wondering if I could use a three position switch to go HLT-Off-BK so only one element is on. Can I do this off one 120v power source?

Thanks
Click to expand...

ChocolateMaltyBalls said:
I'm no PJ but this is pretty easy to do. Just put another contactor in parallel and have both coils going to the three way switch.
Click to expand...

dtfleming,

Exactly and as ChocolateMaltyBalls posted - the second contactor makes it very easy to accomplish.
Wishing all - my very best.

P-J
 
I'm looking to do a 2 element 120 volt setup complete with PID and timer. I've combined a couple of P-J's diagrams into what I think I want.

I would like to be able to operate the unit with only 1 plug if necessary, but 2 if available, so everything basically runs off plug 1.

Can anyone chime in if something looks wrong?

Also thanks to P-J for all your work!

Edit: Now that I think about it, I don't really need a separate button to turn off just one element. I'm happy turning off all or none. I've modified the diagram accordingly so it now runs off just one contactor.

2-elements-plus-timer4.jpg
 
Last edited:
You probably can't run 2 x 2000W element at the same time with just one plug.
 
My goal is that the unit will operate with 1 element when I have plug 1 plugged in, and 2 elements when I have both plug 1 and 2 plugged in.
 
P-J said:
jrb03,

I see that you have been a member here for several years and I'm honored to be able to answer your first post.

I spent a few hours this morning drawing a diagram that should fit your needs.
The entire build should fit in the Auber Instruments Project Box.

I suggest that you also order their External Mount Heat Sink for the SSR.
The RTD temp probe could be the Deluxe version of Liquid Tight RTD Sensor. It is well worth the extra $9 for it.

I'm not sure how you plan on supplying the 12V power to your pump. I show a 120V outlet that can be used to plug in a transformer. (Edit: I did a search on greatbreweh and found their pumps. They ship with a 12V plug in transformer so the diagram is good to go for that as well.)

I hope this is of some help to you.


As always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



Wishing you the best.

P-J
Click to expand...

P-J,

I tried to send you a message, but it said that I can not. I was wondering if I can put an LED in place of the buzzer? I want it to just be a constant Green Light that shows the system has power.

Thanks,

MI_Dogman
 
MI_Dogman said:
P-J,

I tried to send you a message, but it said that I can not. I was wondering if I can put an LED in place of the buzzer? I want it to just be a constant Green Light that shows the system has power.

Thanks,

MI_Dogman
Click to expand...
Quick answer - Yes you can do that. Auber Instruments carries an appropriate indicator light.

P-J
 
MI_Dogman said:
P-J,



I tried to send you a message, but it said that I can not. I was wondering if I can put an LED in place of the buzzer? I want it to just be a constant Green Light that shows the system has power.



Thanks,



MI_Dogman
Click to expand...


The buzzer isn't there to indicate that the system has power...did you mean that you just want a light to indicate an alarm has been triggered?
 
Brewers,

I am trying to achieve basically the same set up as this thread. I only know the basics of electrical work and that is for wiring houses, not making control boxes. So I definitely am creeping on threads to try and figure it out. I basically want to know if what I have on hand can make a good SAFE controller or if I need to order some more/different parts. Please review my contents on hand. Thanks for your time brewers!

1 - 2000w Element
1 - 25a SSR with Heat Sink
2 - 20A 125v Power Switches
2 - Indicator Lights 125v
1 - Auber PID with Probe
1 - Safe Start Key 120v
1 - E-Stop
1 - Project Box
1 - 12v 6a Pump with Power supply
12 gauge wire
22 gauge wire

I don't have any fuses yet....


- Dogman
 

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