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looks good, thanks for sharing!
SSBrewTech - SVBS
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You might consider perusing this thread. You might finds some useful info. It's not too long.
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in terms of cleaning before first time use, the ss website says to wash using TSP. I've never used it before but ordered the powdered kind from Amazon. Is there anything about TSP I should be aware of before using? Is it just a stronger form of Star San?
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also does anyone know if a steam condenser lid exists for this? my searches suggest not but you'd know more than me.
I haven't seen one, but as i brew outdoors I never really look at those threads.
TSP is VERY caustic. It can cause skin burns when diluted in high concentrations. I've used it a lot for cleaning things. Starsan is low pH (acid) TSP is high pH (alkaline).
As a strong alkali, TSP removes oils by turning them to soap. Literally - it's called saponification. Real soap is made the same way, but with Sodium Hydroxide (lye) as the strong alkali. After saponification, the oil becomes miscible in water and you can rinse it away.
Home depot carries powdered in paint dept, depending on your state - I think Calif carries some weak version of it without the phosphates. Even though I have it in the garage, I did not bother cleaning that way. I just did a test run with some water, drained that, and got to brewing. I'm still alive to tell the tale.
I bought the steam slayer from brew hardware, I cut a hole and did a weldless TC port. I just keep it capped when I'm not using it. I brew in my Houston garage and it was worth every penny to have that, especially in the summer. My boil off rate was about the same when I was at 75% power with an open lid with my new set point at 50%.
Ive been on a 8 month hiatus, brewing a Japanese lager and Orange Cream Milkshake IPA this weekend, ready to get that pipeline back up!
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Note: do this at your own risk!
The SVBS halo element seems to be tolerant of a brief dryfire. I did it to quickly remove some crud (worked great), After, it's really important to tilt and spray those carbon flakes out with a hose. You don't want that stuff making its way into the pump tubing.
The SVBS halo element seems to be tolerant of a brief dryfire. I did it to quickly remove some crud (worked great), After, it's really important to tilt and spray those carbon flakes out with a hose. You don't want that stuff making its way into the pump tubing.
So, then I did suck a bunch of that black carbon krud into my pump.
I flipped the SVBS over There is a semi-circular plate secured with philips screwheads, which makes it easy to open and get to the tubing. looks like 1/2 silicone tubing and compression clamps, so pretty easy to get into tubing, remove obstruction, reassemble.
The rest of the panel is littered with a ton of security torx screws - I imagine few people have these (I do, pic below). It looks like some of those (probably around the peripheray) will need to be removed to replace the heating element - if that need arises some day.
Note in the pic you can see the pump and some Wago wire unions. Looks like a pretty clean build. One day I'll disassemble the whole thing and do a deeper dive.
I flipped the SVBS over There is a semi-circular plate secured with philips screwheads, which makes it easy to open and get to the tubing. looks like 1/2 silicone tubing and compression clamps, so pretty easy to get into tubing, remove obstruction, reassemble.
The rest of the panel is littered with a ton of security torx screws - I imagine few people have these (I do, pic below). It looks like some of those (probably around the peripheray) will need to be removed to replace the heating element - if that need arises some day.
Note in the pic you can see the pump and some Wago wire unions. Looks like a pretty clean build. One day I'll disassemble the whole thing and do a deeper dive.
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thanks for this! can you share a pic of what the lid you use looks like with the steam slayer?
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how do you ensure no bugs land in your wort?
"outside" for me means on back patio. It is entirely screened in, so no bugs/leaves/etc.
GoeHaarden
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Not gunna lie. I'm a little disappointed with the internals of this thing. Wagos and all that tubing!? I mean I get it but I figured the inner workings would be a little more...umm...deliberate.
I saw somebody guess that the inside contained a network of SS tubing. I guess that would look better, but if that was the case I'd probably still have a clogged tube.
If I get a free afternoon sometime, I'll do the rest of the disassembly and see what the power/element control looks like.
GoeHaarden
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Right. From a functional standpoint I get it, I guess I just had higher hopes. The guts just aren't as pretty as the exterior.
You don't. Bugs happen when brewing outdoors and they aren't going to affect or harm your beer. I've made plenty of honey bee porters and wasp IPAs. Scoop 'em out and carry on.
Has anyone adapted the Spike Brewing steam condenser lid to their SVBS? Apparently it will fit directly.
Here is what I have
I wish I would have cut the hole another inch towards the middle but oh well.
The 10 gallon lid apparently fits the SVBS, I wanted to do that one as my steam lid, but it was out of stock at the time.
here you go. No issues with the weight.
I wish I would have cut the hole another inch towards the middle but oh well.
The 10 gallon lid apparently fits the SVBS, I wanted to do that one as my steam lid, but it was out of stock at the time.
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DuncB
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You need another hole in that lid so that you can drop the hops in. I made the hole on mine to fit a kilner jar lid ( they have a rubber gasket) so they fit well.
Good idea. I thought about a hop port, but it's pretty easy to just lift the lid for a few seconds. I mostly
do lagers, if I did a lot of hop additions I might sing a different tune!
DuncB
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I like it so I can look in as well! But there's no doubt for me the lid and condenser is a game changer.
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what type of tool did you use to make the hole? also, does steam escape the small 'inlet' the lid has in it?
I haven't rigged up my steam slayer on my SVBS yet but I do use it on my Anvil Foundry 6.5 which has a hole in the lid for the recirculation tube. It doesn't affect the steam slayer at all.
Just a carbide hole saw for the size I needed.
Nope that rubber piece doesn't let any steam escape. I thought it would and was the reason I wanted to get the solid 10 gal lid, but I haven't had an issues with that.
DuncB
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The glass lid is steam tight.
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