Questions about March Pumps answered by the Factory!

[pola0502ds]

I would have wrapped it 5-6 times with the tape. I tighten mine a 1/2 turn to a full turn past hand tight. Thats all you need. A lot of people don't realize that even on metal NPT pipe fittings you don't need to crank on them to get water tight. I learned the hard way and I actually broke the threads off on my head once. Had to replace the whole pump head. I used JB weld at first but it didn't work to well.

A bit late on my part, but thanks! Didn't realize you answered everything *inside* my quote

Now I just need to find a local distributor that can order the SS housing and o-ring for me...

By the way, I'm using polysulphone street elbows on the inlet and outlet in order to avoid stripping their heads (the elbows are then connected to SS fittings)... I figure those can easily be replaced, and much more cheaply than the entire housing.

But it still have me nervous as I still feel like tightening too much can still easily break the threads, and I've used my pump now a couple times with the elbow SWIVELLING on the outlet. It hasn't leaked, even when moving around (it sits on a chair right now so it can't loosen more than 45° or so before hitting the surface and stopping), but still, with boiling-hot wort moving through it, it feels like an accident waiting to happen.

So just how tightly CAN I tighten polysulfone fittings onto the pump? I also gave it 3 wraps of Teflon tape... bad idea? Do I even NEED to use PTFE tape?

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

Teflon tape wont hurt anything and only help with a better seal. As for tightening the fittings on the pump head. We here usually just tighten it hand tight (not forcing it as much as possible but just a good hand tight) then take a wrench and go another 1/4 - 1/2 turn more. If you feel its too tight when doing so then just leave it as is hand tight. With the teflon tape taking up any space between the threads you shouldnt have any leaks.
And we wrap 3-6 turns of T-tape....depending on how cheap the teflon tape is...some of them seem thinner then others.

-Walter

 

[beardedirishman]

Walter,

Is it possible/safe to control the motor speed on an 809 with a variable voltage controller? Thereby, controlling the flowrate? If not, could you explain why on this particular motor?

Thanks.

 

[emjay]

I've heard of people trying it with a dimmer switch, and no dice. Only real way to control flow, I believe, is with a valve on the outlet side of the pump.

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

If you wanted to control the rpm's of the motor you would need to get a PWM (pulse width modulated) speed control. Dimmer switches can only take these motors so far before there's not enough voltage for it to work properly. With a dimmer you would need to start the pump up at full speed and then turn it down....i think we have taken the voltage down as low as 89 volts and the pump was struggling.....and it wont turn back on if you leave the dimmer set there.
A PWM controll basicly works like a fast light switch turning on/off at a set rate. To vary the speed you change how long the power is kept on/off.....the thing is that the motor is getting full 115 volts.

-Walter

 

[AdamCanFly]

Walter, I got a march pump for Christmas and plugged it in for the first time a couple weeks ago. Before I plugged it in I accidentally dropped it on my garage floor. When I plugged it in, it made a quiet hum but did not run. Is there something I can do to fix it, or do I need to send it in? About how much would it cost to fix if I do send it in?
Thanks!
Adam

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

Look at the back end of the motor and see if its bent in any way. The motor body is most likely dented and the cap is not sitting right putting stress on the shaft of the motor. Unfortunately that wouldn't be covered under warranty but I have repaired more then a few of these by taking that cap off and tapping the body back straight with a ball peen hammer lightly. If you don't want to undertake that project you can send it back to me here at the factory and I can try and do it for you but I cant guarantee any outcome out of it.

-Walter

 

[AdamCanFly]

Well I took the front pump housing off and can turn the motor easily. It doesn't feel like it's rubbing or catching on anything. When I plug it in it gets harder to turn.

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

So you have the pump head off and the motor turns freely with no power.....but when you put power to it it kinda locks up....sounds typical of the motor being knocked off center. More then likely the rotor (the center part thats spinning inside) is now too close to one side of the coil and the magnetic fields are seizing it up in one location...

-Walter

 

[AdamCanFly]

Anything I can try to fix it or should I send it to you?

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

If you want to attempt it then go for it...if not sure then ship it to me and i'll see what i can do.

-Walter

 

[pola0502ds]

Walter, I lost a screw can you tell me what size it? If you remove the pump head there is a metal housing that has scews on it. You remove those screws to get to the impeller. I lost one of those screws.

can the pump still function with 3 of the 4 screws.

Also, i see a little rust forming on the metal body of the impeller. I can't believe that. Is a little rust going to hurt my brew?

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

Those screws that hold the stainless rear plate on are 8-32 x 3/8" long.
That rust may be from the stamping process. Even though the cover is stainless they have metal stampings....they can transfer small amounts of metal during the stamping process. Easiest way to get rid of it would be to go get some stainless SOS pads....but not the kind that have the detergent in them...just the plan scrubbing pads...and they must be stainless! And just clean the impeller off....should never return again.

-Walter

 

[pola0502ds]

Makes sense to me. Thanks.

 

[JohnnyO]

Hey Walter, my pump tipped over during brewing this weekend and the intake valve broke off my pump when it hit the ground.

How do I go about replacing that part of the pump?

Thanks in advance.

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

If you have the plastic (Black) pump head the part number is :
0809-0079-0100

If you have a center inlet in plastic it will be:
0809-0179-0100

If you have the bronze pump head:
0809-0013-0000

And bronze center inlet is:
0809-0156-0000

You can can any of our distributors and order one through them. You may have better luck with a beer distributor possibly having one instock:

http://www.marchpump.com/distributors/

http://www.marchpump.com/beer-distributors/

-Walter

 

[acefaser]

I have the side inlet (not the center) and want to mount my pumps so the inlet is either up or down. Is it better to have the inlet side of the pump pointed down for best performance? I have my inlet on the top with a valve on the outlet and it worked ok, but just wondered if it was better to have the inlet closer to the ground.

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

Best setup would be to have the outlet pointing up with inlet on the bottom. This way air travels up and out of the pump all the time.

-Walter

 

[pola0502ds]

I know this would go against what people have said but myself and others included have used JB weld to fix the problem and have had good luck with it. It holds up and have not had any off flavors.

 

[emjay]

I'd be more concerned about toxicity than off-flavors... is it food-safe?

 

[shortyjacobs]

I'd be more concerned about toxicity than off-flavors... is it food-safe?

Before it's cured, no. After it's cured, it's generally regarded as safe. MSDSs and tech sheets on the cured product indicate this, but I don't think they specifically call it food safe. Regardless, a lot of brewers use it in intimate contact with their beer.

 

[acefaser]

Best setup would be to have the outlet pointing up with inlet on the bottom. This way air travels up and out of the pump all the time.

-Walter

Thanks, I will swap them and see how much better it works. I did have a few problems with the bubbles, but once primed they ran fine.

 

[betarhoalphadelta]

Walter,

I have two 809 pumps and one has recently seemed to have flow troubles. It's the wort side of my brewing rig rather than the water side, so based on your earlier advice I opened it up for a full cleaning. The impeller seemed to spin a lot easier afterwards, but I'm still having some flow issues. I'll probably try drilling it out to 17/64 before my next brew day, but my backup plan will be to convert it internally to an 815, as I think that'll better handle the wort.

Can you provide a list of all the part numbers I'd need to convert an 809 into an 815? I don't think I've seen that previously in the thread.

 

[pola0502ds]

Walter,

I have two 809 pumps and one has recently seemed to have flow troubles. It's the wort side of my brewing rig rather than the water side, so based on your earlier advice I opened it up for a full cleaning. The impeller seemed to spin a lot easier afterwards, but I'm still having some flow issues. I'll probably try drilling it out to 17/64 before my next brew day, but my backup plan will be to convert it internally to an 815, as I think that'll better handle the wort.

Can you provide a list of all the part numbers I'd need to convert an 809 into an 815? I don't think I've seen that previously in the thread.

Its in this thread but not very clear. Id be interested in hearing this too

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

You can only convert the 809-HS models to the 815. They spin at 3500rpms. The standard 809 spins at 1750 and the 815 impeller wont work the same way. Anywany all you need is one part# 0809-0107-0200 and your done...all the rest of your parts can be reused.

-Walter

 

[pola0502ds]

Do you have a link or website to buy direct from?

I bought my march pump from Midwest and they don't like a actual part number, is this the 809-hs?


March Seal-less Pump - High Temperature

Product Number: 8794
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/march-seal-less-pump-high-temperature.html

 

[betarhoalphadelta]

Thanks Walter!

Pola, I just checked my pump itself, and it has the original label on it calling out the 809 HS number. Unless Midwest pulled the original label off, you might be able to tell.

 

[pola0502ds]

Thank you sir

 

[Andynewbom]

OK so I used the pump for the first time. It works GREAT with cold water. It does not work at all with hot wert. I am pretty sure that the culprit was air in the line and not enough priming which I will fix tomorrow. (thanks to this forum and Walter)
however the pump runs VERY hot and the fan has never turned on. it is brand new and I only used it today for one batch plus lots of test tuns with water and sanitizer.

When does the fan turn on? is it only when hot or always? should the motor body be hot to the touch?

 

[shortyjacobs]

OK so I used the pump for the first time. It works GREAT with cold water. It does not work at all with hot wert. I am pretty sure that the culprit was air in the line and not enough priming which I will fix tomorrow. (thanks to this forum and Walter)
however the pump runs VERY hot and the fan has never turned on. it is brand new and I only used it today for one batch plus lots of test tuns with water and sanitizer.

When does the fan turn on? is it only when hot or always? should the motor body be hot to the touch?

Motor is always quite warm, especially after extended running, but that fan should always turn with the motor on....I think it runs off the driveshaft of the motor...

 

[pola0502ds]

is there any danger in exposing additional heat to the pumps while they are running producing their own heat? My pumps get additional heat from my burners. I have heat shields around the pumps to help divert the heat.

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

Do you have a link or website to buy direct from?

I bought my march pump from Midwest and they don't like a actual part number, is this the 809-hs?


March Seal-less Pump - High Temperature

Product Number: 8794
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/march-seal-less-pump-high-temperature.html

We do not sell direct so you could just log onto our website and find a local distributor near you to get any parts you may need.

-Walter

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

OK so I used the pump for the first time. It works GREAT with cold water. It does not work at all with hot wert. I am pretty sure that the culprit was air in the line and not enough priming which I will fix tomorrow. (thanks to this forum and Walter)
however the pump runs VERY hot and the fan has never turned on. it is brand new and I only used it today for one batch plus lots of test tuns with water and sanitizer.

When does the fan turn on? is it only when hot or always? should the motor body be hot to the touch?

The fans on these motors are attached to the shaft of the motor on the inside...and should ALWAYS be turning when the motor is turned on. It maybe the fan has sepperated from its fixture.....but most times when that happens is make anannoying racket due to it bouncing around inside.

-Walter

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

is there any danger in exposing additional heat to the pumps while they are running producing their own heat? My pumps get additional heat from my burners. I have heat shields around the pumps to help divert the heat.

Depends on how hot you are getting it. The motors are built to run continously in ambient temps of 104*F without any problems. The motor itself will usually run and gennerate its own heat anywhere from 100*F all the way up to as hot a 140*F and still work. Hotter then that and you will probably need to oil the motor bearings (if your motor has it) more often as the heat may cause it to seep out. Also the High Speed motors have a thermal overload built in to them so if they do get too hot it will shut off the motor till it cools down enough to reset.

-Walter

 

[jsguitar]

I just bought a March 809 HS used and was wondering if I can take the whole thing apart. It looks likes it's had a wort spill possibly and has some rust in the motor housing. It works fine, but I'd like to clean the rust and gunk out. Thanks.

EDIT: I was able to take the back off of the body by using some needle nose pliers to get the clips off. I then took out the fan/shaft and cleaned all of that. It was hard to get to the front of the motor since I didn't see a way to get the front of the body off, but I just stuck a piece of a scrubby with some bar keeper's friend in there and used a screw driver to get most the rust and stuff out of there. I oiled it really good and got the clips back on with a tap of a hammer. Looks much better and runs well.

I found a cockroach behind the head!

 

[rellot]

subscribed, no questions yet, but just bought one off morebeer.com

Thanks Walter for being a resource for us homebrewers! :rockin:

This thread was helpful in deciding which brand pump to go with. I have access to good info about this pump, why would I go with a different brand?

 

[Starderup]

We bought two 315HF pumps and they pump like crazy. If you don't have hold of the end of your tubing, they will whip around like a firehose. Don't ask how we found out.

 

[betarhoalphadelta]

I had posted a while back about having flow issues on my wort side pump, and had tried completely washing out the impeller assembly, thinking that it was getting gummed up and not spinning well. That didn't work.

It is a pump I've had 2-3 years, so my next thought was that maybe it was running a bit dry. So I oiled it. It pumps just like new!

So, if you have had your pump a while, and if it's the type that has oiling holes, you might just want to give it a try every year or so.

 

[Irrenarzt]

Your language implies that not all have oiling holes? I've never noticed holes on mine but if they are there and I'm missing them, I'd like to locate them so I can oil the pumps. Anyone have a pic of said holes?

 

[shortyjacobs]

Your language implies that not all have oiling holes? I've never noticed holes on mine but if they are there and I'm missing them, I'd like to locate them so I can oil the pumps. Anyone have a pic of said holes?

See this pic from this post. Red circles for oil holes, note also the arrows on the label that say "oil" and point at the holes. If yours says "oil" and points at those holes, put a few drops in each one, (don't drown the damn thing).