Questions about March Pumps answered by the Factory!

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WalterAtMarchPump said:
the 815 pump has a slightly bigger impeller and a stronger magnet inside of it. So when you change out the standard impeller in the 809 with an 815 impeller you are in essence making your pump into an 815 pump.

-Walter
Click to expand...

Nice, I ordered one of those last week. Do they still use the same pump head as an 809? The reason I ask is because I may want to substitute a stainless steel head, if possible, sometime in the future.
 
The only parts that you cant re-use between all the 809 versions is the o-ring and some of the earlier screw in shafts on the metal pumps. Other then that all the parts you can swap as needed between all the 809 models.

-Walter
 
Walter, I have a March 815 pump and I've been having a problem with the impeller. About 4 or 5 times during a brew session the pump will make an abrupt seizing noise and the impeller will quit spinning and the flow will stop. I immediately turn the pump off and when I turn it back on, it starts up again just fine. This happens on both hot water and hot wort transfers. Any ideas?
 
A "seizing noise"? are you sucking air into the system or is your system not fully primed and air may be trappen in the pump head? Is the liquid boiling and you may be sucking air? Outlet pointing up or atleast at highest point? Are your lines 1/2" ID min? If all those check out then try drilling the ID of the impeller with a 17/64" drill bit.
The only time the pump head makes any "noise" is when they run dry and "shriek...unless theres something either worn or broken inside the pump head...

-Walter
 
WalterAtMarchPump said:
A "seizing noise"? are you sucking air into the system or is your system not fully primed and air may be trappen in the pump head? Is the liquid boiling and you may be sucking air? Outlet pointing up or atleast at highest point? Are your lines 1/2" ID min? If all those check out then try drilling the ID of the impeller with a 17/64" drill bit.
The only time the pump head makes any "noise" is when they run dry and "shriek...unless theres something either worn or broken inside the pump head...

-Walter
Click to expand...

No air, the system was fully primed using a bleeder valve. Outlet is oriented to the right, so still the highest point. All hoses and fittings are 1/2" ID.

What would cause the impeller to stop spinning when liquid is still flowing?
 
I'll try drilling out the impeller with a 17/64" drill bit tonight for a brew day tomorrow and see if that fixes it.

Could it be related to the larger impeller? I'm also using one of the Chugger stainless heads, could that be causing any problems?

Thanks for all your help.
 
The main things that would cause the impeller to de-couple would be the fluid viscosity is to thick and puts too much stress on the magnets to keep them aligned....and running dry and seizing onto the shaft.
So unless you are running a malt or something thick i cant see why the impeller would be making the noise and stop pumping on you.
Drilling out the impeller ID will open the clearences up so you get extra fluid between the shaft and impeller.....helps in cleaning things out after brewing so you dont get a sugar buildup and consiquent impeller seizure later.

-Walter
 
Walter:

How often does one need to physically open the pump head and manually clean it?

I typically run hot PBW thru my pump as part of my clean up process. I occasionally also run StarSan thru the pump as my chill-plate suggests this as part of its cleaning process.
 
IF you are running cleaning through it and its working properly then you should never have to open it to clean. Unless it doesnt get cleaned properly and seizes then you would need to open it....and the ones that come back to me all i do is take some warm water...soak it for about 5min all taken apart then just wipe it all down and put it back together with a dab of glycerin.

-Walter
 
For those of you that run PBW through your pump to clean it, is this what you do to clean all your hoses as well? Cleaning your hoses is pretty important too, I have silicone so I don't know if it makes a difference.
 
pola0502ds said:
For those of you that run PBW through your pump to clean it, is this what you do to clean all your hoses as well? Cleaning your hoses is pretty important too, I have silicone so I don't know if it makes a difference.
Click to expand...

:off: Your question may be better for a different thread - I am not sure that we should expect Walter to also be the authority on cleaning hoses.
 
They have superior action/modulation so you can control the flow very nicely. Plus they are easy to clean and rebuild and have PTFE seals and don't have the silly handle locks like the Blichmann ones. Really Swagelok is far beyond what you need for this application but the more controllable modulation is important to me.

You get what you pay for.
 
I have 2 809's without bases. (Synthetic housing)
What is an acceptable method to mount the pumps?
I'm not using any hard piping. If I did, can the pump hang from it?
 
Rondacker said:
I have 2 809's without bases. (Synthetic housing)
What is an acceptable method to mount the pumps?
I'm not using any hard piping. If I did, can the pump hang from it?
Click to expand...

You can hard pipe the plastic pumps as long as there is no stress load on the connection joints. Meaning that the pipes are perfectly inline with the connections and are not bending/tweaked in any other direction putting a load on the connection.

As for mounting the models that dont have mounting bases.....most people just use a set of large hose clamps and clamp the pump to a solid surface around the motor body.

-Walter
 
Walter:

I have my pump mounted in a toolbox to keep it dry. The box is about twice as long as the pump and there is about 2 inches of clearance all around the pump. Last time i used it I noticed that the box gets very warm on the inside. No hot enough to burn one's hand, but it is very warm.

I assume this is shortening the life of the pump, but by how much?
 
Hard to say...i would crack open the box top to aid in cooling while brewing. Also make sure, in your case, to oil it at least once a year with a few drops of machine oil or the 3-in-1 oil they have talked about here to help keep the sleeve bearings lubricated if your pump requires it. Check the label of the pump...if it needs oil there will be two arrows pointing to the ends of the motor body to some holes for oiling.
If theres nothing there signaling for oil then you have a ball bearing motor and its sealed for life.
All of our 809 motors have thermal protection and the motor mfg has told us that they can run as hot as you want as long as the motor is not cycling on/off with the thermal overload...

-Walter
 
So I just got my MoreBeer 809 (the high-flow one with the 815 impeller) delivered today, and it came with a repair parts list of all the necessary part numbers for a few different pumps, including the stainless 809-SS-HS-C.

So I'm wondering, if I were to order the stainless housing that comes with that particular model (part number 0809-0150-0000), would I be able to use it to replace my current polysulfone one? Would I need any additional parts?

Also, under the quantity column, it shows up as "4", where for both polysulfone housings (inline and center inlet), it is just "1". Is this just a typo, or am I actually required to order 4 of these things?
 
emjay said:
So I just got my MoreBeer 809 (the high-flow one with the 815 impeller) delivered today, and it came with a repair parts list of all the necessary part numbers for a few different pumps, including the stainless 809-SS-HS-C.

So I'm wondering, if I were to order the stainless housing that comes with that particular model (part number 0809-0150-0000), would I be able to use it to replace my current polysulfone one? Yes you can use the stainless housing on your pump. they all interchange.

Would I need any additional parts? Yes you would also need the o-ring as they are slightly different sizes between the plastic and metal pumps.

Also, under the quantity column, it shows up as "4", where for both polysulfone housings (inline and center inlet), it is just "1". Is this just a typo, or am I actually required to order 4 of these things? Quantity of 4 for the stainless housing??? no you only need one of that part number.....either yo got a parts sheet with a typo or possibly when it was printed the column was shifted for some reason...it should be Qty 4 for the Hex nut (Part # 8) below the stainless housing. if you want our most current parts sheet you can download it here: http://www.marchpump.com/site/files/966/112196/382493/524058/Pump_Manual.pdf




-Walter
Click to expand...
:)
 
Just so I understand this correctly, if I have a 809 pump, I can buy some parts and change it to a 815 that will give me a better flow rate?
 
pola0502ds said:
Just so I understand this correctly, if I have a 809 pump, I can buy some parts and change it to a 815 that will give me a better flow rate?
Click to expand...

I'll take this one Walter.:) Yes you can, but unless you have full 1/2" flow couplers, don't bother. I bought an 815 just because I got a good deal, I still use the brass qd's that most use from mcmaster carr, they are a bit restrictive, but work fine for my setup.

There is no flow difference between the two pumps with the restrictive connections. The original answer to your question is a few pages back.

WalterAtMarchPump said:
the 815 pump has a slightly bigger impeller and a stronger magnet inside of it. So when you change out the standard impeller in the 809 with an 815 impeller you are in essence making your pump into an 815 pump.

-Walter
Click to expand...


_
 
Thanks ww450 :D

Just to add one note to the above.....if you want the performance of the 815 pump, the 815 impeller will only work on the 809-HS pumps. You CAN fit the 815 impeller into the standard low speed 809 but it wont give you any more flow or pressure because of the low rpm's

-Walter
 
Walter,

I've noticed a few comments about having 2.5" of straight pipe going in the inlet side, and I understand the logic with a standard 90* pipe fitting. My question is...could I use a hard pipe that has a sweep to it? I'm thinking of a 90* tri-clamp fitting like this one:

http://www.brewershardware.com/1-Tri-Clover-90-elbow.html

I was hoping the hard piping, and gentle curve would get me the bend I'm looking for in my application, without the chance of cavitation.

Thanks!
 
beardedirishman said:
Walter,

I've noticed a few comments about having 2.5" of straight pipe going in the inlet side, and I understand the logic with a standard 90* pipe fitting. My question is...could I use a hard pipe that has a sweep to it? I'm thinking of a 90* tri-clamp fitting like this one:

http://www.brewershardware.com/1-Tri-Clover-90-elbow.html

I was hoping the hard piping, and gentle curve would get me the bend I'm looking for in my application, without the chance of cavitation.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

FYI,

Always check ebay and www.glaciertanks.com for better pricing on tri-clamp products. GlacierTanks always beats everyones price.
 
So I broke off the threaded outlet on my march pump, anyone know of a place that has great pricing for these pump heads or cover?
 
beardedirishman said:
Walter,

I've noticed a few comments about having 2.5" of straight pipe going in the inlet side, and I understand the logic with a standard 90* pipe fitting. My question is...could I use a hard pipe that has a sweep to it? I'm thinking of a 90* tri-clamp fitting like this one:

http://www.brewershardware.com/1-Tri-Clover-90-elbow.html

I was hoping the hard piping, and gentle curve would get me the bend I'm looking for in my application, without the chance of cavitation.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

A sweeping bend will always be better then a hard right angle due to the fact the water is hitting a wall and changing directions like in a true 90*.
Just make sure its got a good I.D. size and you are good to go. :)

-Walter
 
If one were to spill some hot sticky beer into the open end of the pump near the motor and fan what would you recommend he do?
 
sickbrew said:
If one were to spill some hot sticky beer into the open end of the pump near the motor and fan what would you recommend he do?
Click to expand...

Make a cover for the next pump? :cross:

You can try going to a place like radio shack and getting there electronic parts cleaner in the spray can and try to clean it all out...then oil the bearings when done before use. If you caught it right away and happened to have an air compressor i would have blown the thing out dry as much as possible, oiled it and ran it for a while to make sure it was all dry inside so it didnt bing up later...
Other then that i have no clue.

-Walter
 
Walter, I was filling out my warranty card for an 815-PL, then decided it would be easier to just do it online at your website.

Well, I registered my pump online, but your website indicates that the warranty card must be returned to the factory within 10 days of purchase in order to qualify for a one year warranty BEGINNING date of purchase. If not, its a one year warranty from date of manufacture.

Does March Pumps strictly adhere to this 10 day policy? Obviously I have had the pump for more than 10 days.

Date of Purchase: 04/29/11
Date Received: 05/06/11
Date Install: 05/29/11

thanks
 
TheZer said:
Walter, I was filling out my warranty card for an 815-PL, then decided it would be easier to just do it online at your website.

Well, I registered my pump online, but your website indicates that the warranty card must be returned to the factory within 10 days of purchase in order to qualify for a one year warranty BEGINNING date of purchase. If not, its a one year warranty from date of manufacture.

Does March Pumps strictly adhere to this 10 day policy? Obviously I have had the pump for more than 10 days.

Date of Purchase: 04/29/11
Date Received: 05/06/11
Date Install: 05/29/11

thanks
Click to expand...

Its OK, as long as we have some sort of record its all good. The only time we would question it would be if the serial number shows the pump being older then 1yr...and its been just registered less then a month ago and now failed. Then we would ask for a reciept or question where you purchased it to see if we can verify the timeframe.

-Walter
 
WalterAtMarchPump said:
:)
Click to expand...

A bit late on my part, but thanks! Didn't realize you answered everything *inside* my quote :)

Now I just need to find a local distributor that can order the SS housing and o-ring for me...

By the way, I'm using polysulphone street elbows on the inlet and outlet in order to avoid stripping their heads (the elbows are then connected to SS fittings)... I figure those can easily be replaced, and much more cheaply than the entire housing.

But it still have me nervous as I still feel like tightening too much can still easily break the threads, and I've used my pump now a couple times with the elbow SWIVELLING on the outlet. It hasn't leaked, even when moving around (it sits on a chair right now so it can't loosen more than 45° or so before hitting the surface and stopping), but still, with boiling-hot wort moving through it, it feels like an accident waiting to happen.

So just how tightly CAN I tighten polysulfone fittings onto the pump? I also gave it 3 wraps of Teflon tape... bad idea? Do I even NEED to use PTFE tape?
 

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