Alright, I think making a collar would be easier and less stressful than cutting the top of a mini-fridge for a tower also. I also think that having the extra space in a keezer would be cool if I wanted to cold crash or lager a carboy. Well thanks for the advice guys. I guess I'll start pricing them on CL.
Keezer Collar the Coastarine Way
- Thread starter Coastarine
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OP
OP
A little food (or drink) for thought: corny kegs are cheaper than carboys and have a smaller footprint in the keezer. If you want to cold age a beer in the keezer it is the way to go. Anything that settles out just gets flushed away in the first pint and the way I see it, that wastes less than racking a second time.
Cool, so you just rack after a few weeks of fermenting straight to the keg?
paradoc
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I REALLY like the idea of attaching the collar to the lid. I was planning to do it the other way, but would have been a hassle to move the hinges on the bottom. This way makes a lot more sense. Do you find the weight of the collar and taps causes any problems with the lid staying open?
Already have my perlick faucets... Looks like a fun project for my next day off
OP
OP
No, having the collar on the lid makes it stay open better. Picture it opened: the center of gravity of the lid is moved further back, behind the hinge. As long as your keezer opens to vertical or past, you're good.
paradoc
Well-Known Member
Finished my collar and installed the taps tonight. All I need to do is touch up the paint and hook up the plumbing. Very happy with the way it turned out! 
I mounted my taps on the side instead of the front. I also was able to remove the liner from the lid, trim the edges down by about 1/2 inch, then was able to lay the liner into the collar and glued it in place. So the inside of the lid isn't just bare insulation. I also got some 1" rigid foam insulation that I'm going to trim down to size and glue inside the collar. Probably don't need it... but home it will control moisture a bit.
Pics attached.
Thanks Coastarine for the instructions!
I mounted my taps on the side instead of the front. I also was able to remove the liner from the lid, trim the edges down by about 1/2 inch, then was able to lay the liner into the collar and glued it in place. So the inside of the lid isn't just bare insulation. I also got some 1" rigid foam insulation that I'm going to trim down to size and glue inside the collar. Probably don't need it... but home it will control moisture a bit.
Pics attached.
Thanks Coastarine for the instructions!
My keezer was sweating a lot on the inside and mold was starting to form around the bottom corners. Cleaned it out, bleached it, sanitized it, and put a dehumidifier in it and all's been dry inside since. This is what I put in, fairly cheap and effective. http://www.amazon.com/Eva-dry-EDV-E-500-Renewable-Wireless-Dehumidifer/dp/B000H0XFD2/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1256433618&sr=8-21
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OP
OP
I was asked recently if there was anything I'd do differently on this now that I've had it for most of a year. I am still tossing around the idea of insulating the wood collar, I know it probably uses a little more power than it has to but I live on base so I don't pay an elec bill unless it is way over the neighborhood avg. The bigger issue is that we moved since I built this and the movers had this loaded in the truck with a lot of weight on top (I wasn't there when they loaded it and SWMBO doesn't know any better). Then it got to the new house one of the liquid nails joints had broken a bit. All pieces were still attached to the lid though, so I just squirted some more in there and it was all good, but it occurred to me that it wouldn't be difficult to reinforce them with some wood screws. I could even use the 90* clamp to help secure them during drilling.
mordantly
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paradoc, interesting you put the faucets on the end. i wouldnt think that would be legal.
paradoc
Well-Known Member
Legal? I kinda doubt there is a law regulating where you put your faucets on a homebrew keezer...
Yes, I put the faucets on the side because my wife wanted to use the top for a laundry table. SWMBO is happy, so I'm happy! Works great, and now have the tubes all neatly routed inside the lid so they don't get in the way when you raise the lid. Only problem was when I grabbed my coat from the top the other day and pulled one of the taps open. House smelled like a frat house for a while
Need to get slightly shorter handles for the faucets.
mordantly
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it never occured to me one can drill holes anywhere in a piece of wood.
Teufelhunden
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genius!!!!Legal? I kinda doubt there is a law regulating where you put your faucets on a homebrew keezer...
Yes, I put the faucets on the side because my wife wanted to use the top for a laundry table. SWMBO is happy, so I'm happy! Works great, and now have the tubes all neatly routed inside the lid so they don't get in the way when you raise the lid. Only problem was when I grabbed my coat from the top the other day and pulled one of the taps open. House smelled like a frat house for a while
JoMarky
Well-Known Member
Coastarine, where did you find the information that chest freezer coils go through the walls? I was doing some research trying to figure out where my freezer's coils are and the parts diagrams make it appear they only run along the back wall, but they weren't perfectly clear. It's a massive 20 cu. ft. frigidaire model, so maybe since its so large they only use the back?
mordantly
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they can be anywhere except in the lid. or the hinge wouldn't work.
OP
OP
One way to know for sure is to let it run for a few minutes and feel where it is putting off heat on the outside. If all four sides get warm, there's your answer. I know that on mine at least the front and sides get warm.
OP
OP
I think I put the lid onto the collar and then put some books or something on it to keep it secure.
Thanks for the instructions. I think I'm going to do mine this way. Simple and gets the job done!
I do have one question: can anyone think of a reason this wouldn't work with 1x6's? I could use the extra couple inches for a fermentation chamber on top of the hump in the freezer.
EDIT: nevermind; I think I found my answer in other threads.
I do have one question: can anyone think of a reason this wouldn't work with 1x6's? I could use the extra couple inches for a fermentation chamber on top of the hump in the freezer.
EDIT: nevermind; I think I found my answer in other threads.
alexnphillips
Well-Known Member
How did you run power for this into your keezer?
Never mind. I just saw that it doesn't need any power
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psychobrawler
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My glue is drying on my collar now. I got some 9" wide solid cherry boards that are just beautiful. They're 1" thick - and all together it makes for a pretty heavy piece of furniture. To add to it, I'm not putting the original freerzer door back on. I've made what is essentially a solid cherry bar top. I'd like the whole piece to lift to avoid lifting keps over the collar, but I'm guessing this is about 75 pounds of solid cherry.
Anyone have hinging suggestions? I originally planned on bolting through the collar and the original hinges, and supporting the lid with additional braces when open. I'm just not sure how much weight those hinges can bear.
Anyone have hinging suggestions? I originally planned on bolting through the collar and the original hinges, and supporting the lid with additional braces when open. I'm just not sure how much weight those hinges can bear.
zahrndt_usmc
Active Member
Awesome thread, this is gonna be my next project (dont tell SWMBO) But i do have a question about that temperature controller that you have to wire, i am not exactly a tech savy kinda guy and the directions seemed vauge at best, so i wanna make sure im understanding it right. You take an extension cord, cut it in half and expose the wires and a 3 inch additional peice. insert the wires in the unit, and then plug the extension cord into the wall and the freezer into the other end of the extension cord.... If im completely off please let me know. thanks for all the great info.
Hang Glider
Beer Drinker
zahrndt- if you're not comfortable with the electronics, get a pre-wired controller.
they come in analog and digital formats, usually about $60 for analog, $80 for digital (this pic is from Northern Brewer).
Of course, if you want to wire it all yourself, you don't mind the readings in Celsius, and that it comes from China, you can search eBay for an Aquarium temp controller, and search thru here for instructions and ideas. That will put you in the $40 market.
they come in analog and digital formats, usually about $60 for analog, $80 for digital (this pic is from Northern Brewer).
Of course, if you want to wire it all yourself, you don't mind the readings in Celsius, and that it comes from China, you can search eBay for an Aquarium temp controller, and search thru here for instructions and ideas. That will put you in the $40 market.
janzik
Well-Known Member
How is that seal holding up? I was going to use the old seal that was on my lid, but during the reattachment process, I realized that the inner diameter of my collar is a hair too big to fit the original seal. I was thinking about just cutting it at the 2 back corners (so I have 1 U shaped piece and 1 straight piece, and just silicone sealing the hair line gap between the back 2 corners, but this stuff looks a lot cleaner than the dirty (actually worn and old looking) seal that was on my lid.
alexnphillips
Well-Known Member
Alright, I started building my coastarine collar this past weekend (i'll put pics up once its done). What are you using for a drip tray? Mine is in my kitchen and I didn't want to be cleaning up drops everynight. I was planning on getting one of those 14" tall ones that could be bolted into the wood and I would just take on and off whenever I was changing kegs. I noticed that all of the tall ones (tall backsplash) are meant to have the taps go through them. I was imagining the kind you could take on or off easily.
deezy
Well-Known Member
Great collar build, gonna give this a shot as soon as I can pick up a freezer.
OP
OP
My seal is still holding just fine.
My drip tray is two smoker boxes with the lids removed held on with magnets. Both found at home depot/lowes and all for less than $20.
Here's an example of someone else using the same smoker box in a slightly different fashion:
My drip tray is two smoker boxes with the lids removed held on with magnets. Both found at home depot/lowes and all for less than $20.
Here's an example of someone else using the same smoker box in a slightly different fashion:
alexnphillips
Well-Known Member
My seal is still holding just fine.
My drip tray is two smoker boxes with the lids removed held on with magnets. Both found at home depot/lowes and all for less than $20.
Here's an example of someone else using the same smoker box in a slightly different fashion:
I am building mine with the collar system so I don't have the option of that style drip tray. It looks great though. A buddy of mine did something really similar coming through the wall of a stand up freezer. He ran the taps through the door of the freezer and then though a box just like yours on the outside to give it a little more of a stainless look.
OP
OP
I obviously have a collar and I use that same drip tray. Magnets dude. That's not my keezer, mine is the one in the how-to pictures in this thread.
Here
Here
alexnphillips
Well-Known Member
I obviously have a collar and I use that same drip tray. Magnets dude. That's not my keezer, mine is the one in the how-to pictures in this thread.
Here
NICE! Never thought of magnets...
BrewMoreBeers
Well-Known Member
I made mine out of 1x4 oak. The 1x4 has much less weight than the 2x4 so the stock hinges have less stress on them. Also, the oak is denser so it should be more durable for the long run.
However, i did find the freezer (a modern eStar Frigidaire) was cycling frequently and the heat sink was actually warming up my 16x12 mancave. I added two layers of foam insulation to the collar and it dramatically reduced the cycling of the condenser and the heat output.
My build is mostly held together with Grab Glue. But, I did reinforce the corners with some metal brackets.
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Just don't set a full glass on the DT and yer okay.
BrewMoreBeers
Well-Known Member
I used Grab Glue for my drip tray. I have to clean it in place, but it's easy. It's more than strong enough to hold a full pint. Just tape it in place when you glue it on so that it does not slide down while the glue cures.
Lots of great info, thanks! I'll be mounting mine on the side for a better fit where it is going but for the most part will be following your build. Great idea on the drip trays too... much cheaper.
Putting some casters on it to make it easier to move around too.
Putting some casters on it to make it easier to move around too.
BriarwoodBrewer
Well-Known Member
This is a great thread. I have an old freezer that was given to me and I got a free Ranco digital temp control from work. So I am well on my way to completing my keezer- taps and collar next. I can store 8 kegs easy in the freezer if needed, but I will most likely install 4 taps at first.
so much great info in this thread... I think I'm going to pick up that dehumidifier from amazon. seems like it'll be cheaper than damp rid in the long run. I'm still using picnic taps inside the chest freezer, but my perlicks are here and ordering my shanks this week. heading out to home depot today for some oak and insulation. This thread prosted.
Aunt_Ester
Well-Known Member
Although I've never heard of a miter box -- and I think it's an awesome alternative to a powered miter -- I was curious if there are any drawbacks to just squaring the edges with a couple of nails instead of going through the pain of getting the angles right.
wedge421
Well-Known Member
Looks great man!
Laziness and not brewing much over the summer has me sitting here with everything I need to finish the collar, but I'm left wondering what the advantage is of attaching the collar to the lid vs. the freezer. My thinking was that my lid would remain light and (hopefully) stay upright when I have it open. I would just screw the lid into the back of the collar with L brackets if need be. If I have to remove the lid liner, no prob and I'd just weather strip the top of the collar to create a seal. I'm just doing a 3 faucet keezer since that's all I need/have room for. Picked up some free insulation this weekend, so maybe get this together next weekend...thanks for any thoughts/info.
Hang Glider
Beer Drinker
Collar secured to chest, lid on collar:
Pros: lighter, less clearance required, no moving the seal. Existing hinges screw to collar. Collar attaches easily to base with a bead of silicone caulk
Cons: higher to lift a full keg. May have to pull beer lines out of the way
Collar secured to lid:
Pros: - less beer-line interruption, less height when moving heavy keg
Cons: more clearance required when opening, heavy to open. Move seal to bottom of wood. Fastening collar to lid requires more than "a little silicone" and requires moving hinge to collar/chest junction.
Pros: lighter, less clearance required, no moving the seal. Existing hinges screw to collar. Collar attaches easily to base with a bead of silicone caulk
Cons: higher to lift a full keg. May have to pull beer lines out of the way
Collar secured to lid:
Pros: - less beer-line interruption, less height when moving heavy keg
Cons: more clearance required when opening, heavy to open. Move seal to bottom of wood. Fastening collar to lid requires more than "a little silicone" and requires moving hinge to collar/chest junction.
