Search results

I can never seem to tell whether I am getting full conversion or not. I put a few drops of iodine in a glass, add a few drops of wort but no matter what the liquid gets a bit darker and I can't tell whether this because of a small amount of starch still present or whether its just the yellow...

The obvious one, water bottles, which are made from PET are not high heat resistant (200f max), and so when mixed with boiled wort may leech off solvents. What plastic containers could I use? I shy away from glass as I believe the thermal shock could cause it to break.

Would an extra week of exposure increase aroma or has it all been extracted during the boil? I always add all my aroma hops at flame out.

I'm going to try it for a laugh, 1 gallon batch! 1 bottle of Weihenstephan!

Brew United's yeast calculator advocates an inoculation rate between 25 and 100 million for 'best growth'. I often lean towards thinner starters (1.030) as this leads to 'healthier yeast' but consequently, a low (<25m) inoculation rate. Would a low rate impact the yeast in any way?

I will be fermenting with the WY2124 Bohemian Lager at 70f and wondered what my pitch rate should be (m/ml) in order not to create too many esters from underpitching or too many fusels from overpitching. Thanks!

My concern is that with the W3787 still floating about, the drastic increase in temperature would cause a problem. Although it has been in primary for 2 weeks and which has probably hit terminal gravity by now. (White Labs specified that their brett's optimum temperature is 85f+)

The yeast at the bottom of the bottle tastes bitter, so would a beer with suspended yeast taste more bitter? I've just used a low flocculant yeast (Denny's Favourite 50 / WY1450) and it has a lingering bitterness which I'm not in favour of (although thats probably just me), would it be...

I plan to ferment my wort as I normally would by hitting terminal gravity and adding gelatine, but instead transferring it to my secondary before pitching WL's Brett Lambicus. What would be the ideal temperature? White Lab recommends 85c but someone said a high temp will develop unpleasant...

I don't have a fridge cold crashing so I thought, using ice (sanitised/campden/pH 4.5) could be neat way to thermally shock the yeast into flocculating a day or so before bottling. What do you recon?

I image trying to flocculate as much of the protein and yeast as possible would be beneficial, so would it be good to add gelatine and cold crash before transferring my beer to secondary and adding the brett?

What pH should my beer be after fermentation/before bottling? It currently stands at 4.65, with 2.2 volumes of CO2, what will that roughly fall to? I'm brewing a tropical fruit beer (includes no speciality malt).

Its bottling day today. My brew has been in the fermenter for 3 1/2 weeks, the airlock was still bubbling every few minutes so I put this down to degassing. I open the fermenter to take a sample, I see lots of small bubbles appearing on the surface, I seal it again and now the airlock bubbling...

Was it the greatest beer you'd ever had but for all the wrong reasons :D

When I received some feedback on my watery bitter (1.013, 3.3%) I knew the issue was my multi-rest mash schedule. After some reading I found that at the 40c rest, beta-glucans are degraded and their mouthfeel properties are lost. Then there was the 58c rest (15 min) which supposedly breaks...

After filling a bottle shall I cap it... Straight away? After a few minutes? Or right at the end when they've all been filled?

The status quo is to age beers at 55f in order to prevent stale flavours as a result of oxidation, but are stouts the exception seeing they are filled with melanoidins that create sherry-like flavours instead? Would it be better then to age it at 65-70f in order to speed up the ageing process?

I'm aiming to add 300g of dark crystal malt to my fermenter and wanted a second opinion on whether to treat it like I would a standard mash: Steep at 70c for 30 minutes Boil for 90 minutes Ice bath for cold break Add to fermenter (but without splashing)

This is the malt profile for my up-coming bitter, I'm striving for a big toffee flavour so I've focused on the Crystal 400 although have 'layered' the crystal malts by adding some 60 and 200. Is this a concept that people often come across? What would you do to get a big toffee flavour...

Try to caramelize them as much as possible to avoid any fermentation and them dip them in for however many days. I'm looking for apple and toffee flavours and thought this might be interesting.