Yet Another eBIAB Build

[voltin]

Would this element work? I am looking to run this on the same control panel I am parting together, which is a replica of yours.

Looks good to me.

 

[Chris7687]

Awesome. Obviously that is on the lowest of the totum pole, but it is a plan for the future. As for the control box, the back plate FINALLY came in today. It was the biggest headache to get, only took 3.5 weeks! I am getting the interal components in two weeks and then I will be all set to start assembling come the start of the New Year. Going to do both my 82qt and 44qt kettle. Can't wait to go electric.

 

[Jps101]

Voltin,

Great build, I have now looked at this several times. Just wondering, is there anything you would have done differently?

Thanks

 

[voltin]

Voltin,

Great build, I have now looked at this several times. Just wondering, is there anything you would have done differently?

Thanks

I would definitely go with a bigger pot, the 44qt is too small for bigger beers. I would probably also go stainless instead of aluminum. I can't (or at least shouldn't) use PBW or Oxyclean on aluminum which means cleanup isn't easy and thorough as I would like. If I had used stainless then I could just recirculate PBW through the pump, valves and chiller, instead of just water. I might also consider welded fittings instead of weldless for ease of assembly and extra security, although haven't had any problems with my weldless fittings. Finally, Auber now has a braided cable of their own that I would buy instead of making my own like Kal does. I never got my cable right and I think I may have wore it out through use.

Hope that helps!

 

[lukez]

Great build, I'm going with the same setup, thanks for posting all your details!
I'd like to add a digital voltmeter and ampmeter like Kal but a bit confused if I can just add it (the voltmeter is up to 300VAC so should be no problem?) but the ampmeter is DC4.5-28V input. Do I need a transformer and adjustable power supply like Kal or can I just do a transformer for the ampmeter or?
I'd like to make sure the brightness of the LED is the same for both too, so do I do the same thing to both even though the voltmeter is rated high?
Anyone can give me a hand?

Links to voltmeter and ampmeter respectively:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271022616522
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160944741481

Thanks.

 

[voltin]

Great build, I'm going with the same setup, thanks for posting all your details!
I'd like to add a digital voltmeter and ampmeter like Kal but a bit confused if I can just add it (the voltmeter is up to 300VAC so should be no problem?) but the ampmeter is DC4.5-28V input. Do I need a transformer and adjustable power supply like Kal or can I just do a transformer for the ampmeter or?
I'd like to make sure the brightness of the LED is the same for both too, so do I do the same thing to both even though the voltmeter is rated high?
Anyone can give me a hand?

Links to voltmeter and ampmeter respectively:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271022616522
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160944741481

Thanks.

I am certainly no expert on wiring up the voltmeter and ampmeter. But, it looks like the ampmeter is wired up in the same way as Kal's (http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-part-2?page=9). I am not too sure about the voltmeter. There is no datasheet, or photo of the back of the device provided. It looks as if there are only two wires so it may draw its power directly for the supply it is monitoring, but based on the size of the wires shown in the picture I would doubt it. My suggestion would be to ask the seller to provide either photo of the back of the unit, or even better a datasheet in English.

 

[kzimmer0817]

Great build, I'm going with the same setup, thanks for posting all your details! I'd like to add a digital voltmeter and ampmeter like Kal <snip> Thanks.

This is an honest question; hope it doesn't sound like I'm being disagreeable: what purposes do an ammeter and voltmeter serve?

1. If all your electrical components are sized appropriately for the elements, pumps, bells and whistles, and the breaker back at the box is sized appropriately, what useful information do these additional components provide?

2. In what scenarios would the voltmeter or ammeter help me or provide me with some kind of warning that something untoward might be about to happen?

Respectfully,
Keith

 

[lukez]

You are right, I'm adding them pretty much just for the "cool" factor, digital digits look good on the panel.

I guess I'll just plan on going with kal's setup for both to play it safe.

Thanks guys

 

[voltin]

This is an honest question; hope it doesn't sound like I'm being disagreeable: what purposes do an ammeter and voltmeter serve?

1. If all your electrical components are sized appropriately for the elements, pumps, bells and whistles, and the breaker back at the box is sized appropriately, what useful information do these additional components provide?

2. In what scenarios would the voltmeter or ammeter help me or provide me with some kind of warning that something untoward might be about to happen?

Respectfully,
Keith

Neither are required for proper operation. You are right if you spec all your wires right, and ensure that it is impossible to draw too much amperage (say by having multiple elements on at the same time) they are completely unnecessary. They are pretty cool though :rockin:.

 

[jeffmeh]

Well, at least for a few people, the voltmeter revealed to them that they were on 3-phase 208v, rather than split phase 120/240v, lol.

 

[lukez]

If anyone is interested in adding these as well I found a good price for the meters on tmart.com (ships from the US too!). The greedy Chinese that are charging double on ebay wouldn't accept a lower offer for the same product.

http://www.tmart.com/3-Digital-Blue-LED-0-700V-Voltage-Panel-Table_p117971.html

 

[Chris7687]

voltin- I have all my parts, just need to buy the power plugs (Spa Panel to Box and Box to Element). Had a question for you though, how much do you think the pump helps maintain the mash temp? I am debating whether I really need it or not as it would save me approx $175-200. Do you think leaving the PID on at 5% will help maintain the temps with a occasional stir?

 

[voltin]

voltin- I have all my parts, just need to buy the power plus (Spa Panel to Box and Box to Element). Had a question for you though, how much do you think the pump helps maintain the mash temp? I am debating whether I really need it or not as it would save me approx $175-200. Do you think leaving the PID on at 5% will help maintain the temps with a occasional stir?

The pump is a huge help and makes the brew day go much smoother. But I brewed a few batches before I got the pump without problems. I wouldn't recommend setting the PID to 5% as you have the chance of overshooting. Instead just leave it at your mash temp and be sure to stir often. Good luck!

 

[Chris7687]

Ok, ya I was thinking of just doing the build here and leaving a spot on the box for the pump. I will go through the brew day a few times to see if it's really necessary to me. I use an immersion chiller, so I just let gravity and silicone hoses work to get my wort into the carboy. Very excited to get this build finally going.

 

[Chris7687]

voltin- will this mount work for the RTD sensor?

 

[iijakii]

voltin- will this mount work for the RTD sensor?

Yes, as long as you have the matching male plug. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042C1QA0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[Chris7687]

Can someone verify the electrical part for me? I am putting everything in my "cart" and want to make sure it is all correct before I buy it all.

From my house main panel I will be installing a 30A Two Pole Breaker from there I will be running a 10/3 wire to the spa panel which is a 50A GFCI. In the spa panel I am going to install a 30A Flush mount outlet which will plug into with this.

This is where I am a little uncertain:
With the male plug, listed above, I will run another 10/3 wire from the spa panel to the control box which is connected by a connector to a Flanged Inlet Locking Receptacle, correct? Am I missing something? Lastly, going from the control box to the kettle I will have a L6-30P Locking Plug which is plugged into Flanged Outlet Locking Receptacle which leads to the heating element on a 10/3 wire.

Please let me know if you see anything flawed here. Hoping to order everything by the end of the week.

 

[voltin]

Can someone verify the electrical part for me? I am putting everything in my "cart" and want to make sure it is all correct before I buy it all.

From my house main panel I will be installing a 30A Two Pole Breaker from there I will be running a 10/3 wire to the spa panel which is a 50A GFCI. In the spa panel I am going to install a 30A Flush mount outlet which will plug into with this.

This is where I am a little uncertain:
With the male plug, listed above, I will run another 10/3 wire from the spa panel to the control box which is connected by a connector to a Flanged Inlet Locking Receptacle, correct? Am I missing something? Lastly, going from the control box to the kettle I will have a L6-30P Locking Plug which is plugged into Flanged Outlet Locking Receptacle which leads to the heating element on a 10/3 wire.

Please let me know if you see anything flawed here. Hoping to order everything by the end of the week.

At first glance everything looks good. Just make sure the Nema codes line up for each plug and inlet/outlet (e.g. L14-30 in the case of the Spa panel outlet, R is for receptacle P is for plug.) Your current rating looks right. As for the breaker make sure that your panel is a Siemens panel, or is compatabilie with Siemens breakers. I believe breakers are different from manufacturer to manufacturer.

 

[lukez]

I just went through this exact process, the only thing that looks off (and maybe you just said it backwards) but the last part:

Lastly, going from the control box to the kettle I will have a L6-30P Locking Plug which is plugged into Flanged Outlet Locking Receptacle which leads to the heating element on a 10/3 wire.

Depending how you mount your heat element, but lets assume you're doing it the same as this build or kal's method, the flanged outlet locking recep will be in your control panel and the plug will be coming from the element and plugging into the control panel via the flanged outlet.
Regardless the parts you showed for everything looked right and you're safe to order.
PS Check ebay for these plugs and outlets for cheaper price
PSS if you're planning to use the more flexible "cord" type wire between your spa panel and control box, you'll actually need the 10/4 cord wire not 10/3. For some reason 10/3 dryer wire includes the ground but a 10/3 cord wire does not (from my experience at home depot and lowes in canada)

 

[Chris7687]

Lukez - You are right, I just saidit backwards. The outlet rocking recp will be in the control panel. As far as the 10/3 vs 10/4 cord, I am not sure exactly what they all look like. I have this 4ft dryer cord I was hoping to be thrifty and reuse in the build. Where could I possibly use this?

I'll have to check ebay, as I feel $30 for some of these plugs is nuts!

 

[voltin]

Is that cord for plugging into a 4 prong dryer outlet to the spa panel? If so that is perfect, provided you have the right outlet and it is wired with a safety ground.

 

[Chris7687]

voltin - Do you mean from the main breaker to the spa panel? That is where I am hoping to use it for, as it is only 4 ft and it wouldn't be far enough to do the spa panel to the control box. Also if it is, wouldn't I want it hard wired to from main to spa and not a plug? Was thinking of cutting the head off. Please let me know if you mean something else.

 

[voltin]

Most people (myself included) plug into an existing outlet (usually one for a dryer.) If it were me, I would run 10-4 wire through conduit from the mains panel to an outlet in a box or permanently installed spa panel. You definitely do not want just loose wire hanging out the mains panel.

 

[lukez]

That's what I did. Ran 10/3 dryer wire from main panel to a dryer outlet /box where my brew stand is. Then installed spa panel by outlet (actually over top of the box and hard wired to spa panel). Then use that dryer cord and cut the head off to make cord from spa to control panel. Just make sure the 10/3 wire has 4 wires in it to match that dryer cord you have there.

 

[Chris7687]

Hey guys, I am still a little confused. Not the most electrical savvy. Can you possibly post a picture so I can get a better grasp? Wouldn't I need to run a 10/4 cord from main to spa panel to match the 4 wires? Isn't that what the 4 stands for? I don't think my dryer outlet plug is 4 prong, which is why I was thinking of buying a 30 Amp, 125/250 Volt, Flush Mounting Locking Receptacle to install in the side of my spa panel to plug the control box into. Let me know what you all think, I am purchasing everything I need today. Bought everything except the electrical plugs, connectors, and receptecales.

 

[voltin]

Hey guys, I am still a little confused. Not the most electrical savvy. Can you possibly post a picture so I can get a better grasp? Wouldn't I need to run a 10/4 cord from main to spa panel to match the 4 wires? Isn't that what the 4 stands for? I don't think my dryer outlet plug is 4 prong, which is why I was thinking of buying a 30 Amp, 125/250 Volt, Flush Mounting Locking Receptacle to install in the side of my spa panel to plug the control box into. Let me know what you all think, I am purchasing everything I need today. Bought everything except the electrical plugs, connectors, and receptecales.

Are you planning on plugging into the dryer connector, or are you wanting to run a new circuit from the mains panel? You can wire up the spa panel to provide 4 wires from the 3 wire outlet, PJ has a diagram that shows this. That is currently how I have my spa panel wired up.

Now if you are planning on running a whole new circuit from the mains panel, that is a different story. I am by no means an electrician and I do not know electrical code, but I am sure that the dryer cord is not rated for in wall runs. If you are running on the outside of the wall it should be run in conduit to prevent somebody from accidentally snagging on it and potentially causing a live wire to come loose. It all depends on how your panel is situated. If it were me I would have electrician come out and run the new circuit.

 

[Chris7687]

I get what you are trying to say now. I was originally thinking of installing a new 30A breaker and running a wire to the spa panel which I was going to mount on the wall. But I will check my dryer set up tonight, as that will save me the money on buying new wire to run from the main to the spa panel.

 

[Chris7687]

voltin - I noticed that you don't have a automatic shutoff switch on your box. Any reason you did not add it? The kit I bought from Ebrewsupply.com came with a key start and an automatic shut off "button". I don't see the key necessary, but thinking the shut off might be. Your thoughts on this?

 

[voltin]

voltin - I noticed that you don't have a automatic shutoff switch on your box. Any reason you did not add it? The kit I bought from Ebrewsupply.com came with a key start and an automatic shut off "button". I don't see the key necessary, but thinking the shut off might be. Your thoughts on this?

I have a main power switch wired to a relay that controls the power inlet into the box. It acts as an emergency shutoff.

 

[lukez]

is that considered "safe" or should we be tripping the breaker/gfci?