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Will this cheap 3500 watt induction burner work?

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I'm guessing that the guy using a heat stick to compliment his induction is not insulating well or he's just looking for faster times. More is always going to be faster. This hob is only 3500W so bringing large amounts of fluid to a boil can be difficult, but I've been successful at boiling 14-1/2 gallons in my single wall Bayou pot that they claim is 304 stainless.

Yes I use it to speed the brew day. I have a spare 20 Amp circuit. So I heat sparge water with the heat stick and once it's time to get things boiling it really helps.
 
Any link to the disc that goes inside? I have never seen one of those only the ones that go on the outside

I dont have one... But it doesnt mean it wont work... All you need is a flat 410 or magnetic grade stainless disc or even a regular piece of steel to experiment... You could remove the handle from one of the commercial options also. in most other cooking applications it would be messy to do it this way plus defeat the non stick surface and that likely why its not popular.
 
so your saying that the heat is not generated by the magnetism of the stainless and is instead generated in the liquid?
What I said several time in the post you quoted is that the heat is transferred to the liquid.

From what I've read, with induction most of the heat is generated on the surface of the metal, so a thin wall is a more efficient use. The heating of the metal is faster and more intense and can easily be transferred into the liquid. More efficient, but not necessarily desirable for cookware where burning and scorching will happen. Think of it like using a HWD heating element. It could work fine for heating water or wort, but you wouldn't want it directly in you MLT.

I have no experience with using a induction ready plate inside a pot, but doubt it would work. I would think that any liquid under the plate would not benefit from the rolling nature of a boil and cause some serious scorching.
 
And what Ive been saying several times is that induction works with magnetic metal. Weaker non magnetic grades of stainless with very little ferrous metal in it will provide a weaker induction effect and generate less heat. A magnetic grade of stainless should make the induction top more efficient and generate more heat. I do know know what whatever liquid that manages to sit between the two flat and touching surfaces between kettle and the plate would react honestly or if that liquid would even stay there long with the boiling temps. For all we know even a thin plate on the underside of the outside used with thermal paste could be more efficient than just the 304 stainless.

Here is an article that states medium to heavy gauge thickness cookware is better for induction.. http://fantes.net/cookware.html#COOKTOP (as well as stating it should be magnetic)

We know the 304 stainless bayou kettles work for induction dispite most other 304 grade stainless listed or reported as not working so that leads me to believe that it may not be regular true 304 to begin with. The question still remains, How well is the bayou kettle working compared to magnetic cookware and could the suggestions above make it work better..
 
The question still remains, How well is the bayou kettle working compared to magnetic cookware and could the suggestions above make it work better..
I've thought the same thing about Bayou's 304SS claim. That aside, your question is a good one. I can achieve and hold a good rolling boil of 14+ gallons in my 62qt Bayou. Are any of you out there doing the same or better with a clad pot?

My thought is that for 3500W, you're not going to get much better.
 
Can someone please give me a link to adapt this odd plug into something I can use on my dryer? Im not so electrically inclined for re-wiring and such... It is a normal 3 prong female outlet
 
Looks like China is now making an anolog version of the avantco? http://www.amazon.com/3500-Commercial-Electric-Cooktop-Induction/dp/B016U5BHV4?ie=UTF8&redirect=true&ref_=pe_297650_187365240_em_1p_5_ti

81GpMGQhZSL._SL1500_.jpg
 
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Speaking of, I had to take mine apart for the fan that wouldn't come up to speed. Cleaned and lubricated, it works OK now, but still rough, I guess the bearing is shot. Time to find a replacement fan.

Anyone else have this issue?
 
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Did you find something readily available as I am in the same situation you are with this.

Could one simply cut the plug end off and splice on a plug end that fits that style outlet? Or is there a ready to use adapter of some kind?

I made him a adapter cord. I was making one for myself so I just went and purchased some more parts and assembled his. If you are interested I might be able to help you out
 
Did you find something readily available as I am in the same situation you are with this.

Could one simply cut the plug end off and splice on a plug end that fits that style outlet? Or is there a ready to use adapter of some kind?

I made him a adapter cord. I was making one for myself so I just went and purchased some more parts and assembled his. If you are interested I might be able to help you out

Sure, you can cut off the factory plug and wire it in a dryer plug. Or connect to a standard dryer wire in a small work box.

However, cutting the plug will likely void your warranty if anything happens with your unit. An adapter is the easiest solution in that regard.
 
Quick question. I just bought a kettle that is induction ready to make the move into using this cook top. I was just reading the manual online and saw this...

• Do not use pans with a bottom diameter greater than 10 1/4". Doing so causes irreparable damage to this induction range.

Just wonder, for those of you using the Advantco if this is really a problem or not?

Thanks
 
Quick question. I just bought a kettle that is induction ready to make the move into using this cook top. I was just reading the manual online and saw this...

• Do not use pans with a bottom diameter greater than 10 1/4". Doing so causes irreparable damage to this induction range.

Just wonder, for those of you using the Advantco if this is really a problem or not?

Thanks

Not a problem. My kettle (Megapot 20g) is over 17" in diameter. I'm probably close to if not well past 100 batches on that cooktop and it's still kicking.

I did blow the fuse internally on it and have to repair that about a year ago. I don't recommend running it non-stop for 12+ hours to do maple syrup, that's what caused it to blow the first time, maybe was a co-incidence.
 
Not a problem. My kettle (Megapot 20g) is over 17" in diameter. I'm probably close to if not well past 100 batches on that cooktop and it's still kicking.

I did blow the fuse internally on it and have to repair that about a year ago. I don't recommend running it non-stop for 12+ hours to do maple syrup, that's what caused it to blow the first time, maybe was a co-incidence.


Thanks, good to know.
 
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1470587657.404600.jpg

Well ordered the burner and picked slowest shipping cause I was going to be out of town. Well it ships from within Georgia and it got here in one day and was waiting on the door step. Anyway got the future site of Halfogre Brewing Company set up in my basement.

Next step is to get the electrician out to install the outlet. You can't see it in the picture, but the breaker box is just right of the picture. Actually going to have the outlet install underneath the breaker box.
 
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