Why bother with stainless?

[pickles]

It's for home brewing so it's heated by a flame for what it's worth. Doesn't really matter though. I'd imagine a huge reason breweries use SS is because it is malleable and more easily welded. Material vs labor becomes more of an issue when your welds are 10ft long.

I have a home brewery too, it's not heated with a flame.

 

[Spintab]

Picky picky. A stove is still a heat source under the kettle. Even steam jacketing is still an external heat source. Only other option is a heating element in the side of the kettle. My hlt is setup like that but in a ale pale. I'd like to do the same with the kettle eventually. Nice to know brazing/soldering ss isn't too hard with the right gas/flame/flux/solder combo.

Edit: wrong guy sorry. Are you on a stove or electric elements of some sort?

 

[yorkbrew]

I use stainless because I can do a hot PBW solution recirculating through my pump, chiller, hoses, etc. for clean-up and everything gets nice and shiny. If I tried that with aluminum I would pit the hell out of it.

I'll second this. I cleaned my alumium kettle with PBW and pitted the hell out of it.

 

[yorkbrew]

Picky picky. A stove is still a heat source under the kettle. Even steam jacketing is still an external heat source. Only other option is a heating element in the side of the kettle. My hlt is setup like that but in a ale pale. I'd like to do the same with the kettle eventually. Nice to know brazing/soldering ss isn't too hard with the right gas/flame/flux/solder combo.

Edit: wrong guy sorry. Are you on a stove or electric elements of some sort?

Heating with an element immersed in the water/wort would be best in SS because of the lower thermal conductivity. The SS would 'insulate' better than Al and more of the heat you put in would stay there.

Overall I'd say that if you want to build a large 3 vessel system then SS and CIP procedures are the way to go. Smaller systems are easier to clean and so CIP wouldn't be worth it so I'd go for Al in that case.

 

[pickles]

I have an all electric RIMs system, with heating elements in BK, HLT, and RIMs. In my case aluminums conductivity is a minus. So for me there is no pro in the aluminum column. That's what works for me. You asked why stainless so I'm trying to approach it from the material standpoint alone.

 

[Malticulous]

The only reason I use a stainless pot is because it was dirt cheap. I've brewed a lot in that pot and it's clear it's going to be around after my turkey frier is molten rubble.

 

[cdubbaya]

SAMs club - 6 gallon pot in the commercial cookware section.

Link? I'd like to see the size and cost of this pot.

I started brewing a few years ago with a SS pot, and recently switched to a larger AL one they came with my burner. I hate it. It never looks clean and the material just isn't as durable. If I could replace it with the same size SS pot I would in a heart beat.

I've brewed about 10 batches with both and stainless is just way easier to work with.

 

[Spintab]

I have an all electric RIMs system, with heating elements in BK, HLT, and RIMs. In my case aluminums conductivity is a minus. So for me there is no pro in the aluminum column. That's what works for me. You asked why stainless so I'm trying to approach it from the material standpoint alone.

I'm actually curious what it is that caused people to choose stainless. Be it opinion or necessity. The advantage of stainless with submersed heating is key. I can't stand spending 20 bucks every few batches to refill the propane tank and worrying if I have enough for the length of the boil. Like I said, I plan on eventually sticking an element in the kettle and losing the propane all together. Good to know stainless is the way to go in that circumstance.

 

[Kuhndog]

I'm sure they would jump at the chance to save thousands of BTUs a year in exchange for some labor.

I hope you are being sarcastic about that only because they don't care about that cost...they pass that on to the price of their product and it's picked up by the consumer....whereas the homebrewer has to watch their costs both in ingredients, fuel costs, equipment costs...and time - the only person they pass it off to is themselves.

 

[Malticulous]

I hope you are being sarcastic about that only because they don't care about that cost...they pass that on to the price of their product and it's picked up by the consumer....whereas the homebrewer has to watch their costs both in ingredients, fuel costs, equipment costs...and time - the only person they pass it off to is themselves.

You obviously have no idea what your talking about. Every last cent is calculated, backward and forward.

 

[day_trippr]

Even if Aluminum had a thermal resistance of zero, the only way a tri-clad kettle could be more efficient than a full stainless kettle would be if the combined thickness of the two stainless layers was thinner than the thickness of the comparable full stainless kettle. That doesn't sound like A Good Thing to me.

Aside from that, I've had tri-clad kitchen pots develop bubbles under the inner stainless layer. That's definitely not A Good Thing...

Cheers!

 

[Lost]

I'll second this. I cleaned my alumium kettle with PBW and pitted the hell out of it.

I've experimented with PBW, oxyclean, and a oxyclean TSP (sodium metasilicate) mix in an old aluminum turkey fryer pot I no longer use.

I've found that, at least at suggested mix ratios, none of the above cleaners pit or damage the aluminum for at least 10-15 minutes. I haven't tried any longer than that. When mixed with hot water that contact time seems sufficient to remove pretty much all gunk hanging around. Honestly, hot water and a brush is usually sufficient to remove 98% of everything left in the boil kettle.

To hear people talk, PBW would eat through aluminum like acetone through a stryofoam cup. That's not true in my experience. The PBW will blacken the pot if it does anything but I've found that wort itself will (and has) done that.

Perhaps you're making the solution ridiculously strong and/or letting it soak for hours or overnight.

I have a 20gal aluminum kettle I plan to use in the new rig and plan to do CIP based on the aforementioned tests I've done with my old turkey fryer. Do what you like and if anyone ruins their pot with PBW, don't blame me. Caveat emptor.

 

[Brulosopher]

If you want SS, I'm selling a heavy duty 15 gallon kettle with spigot and thermometer... $210 (shipping included)

 

[Beezy]

Why do you guys even get so anal about cleaning kettles? I was my pot with hot water and a sponge. I don't want to remove protective layer in it. I mean you are boiling wort for at least 60 minutes. What more do you need?

 

[wildwest450]

I keep seeing people rooting for aluminum though so my question at this point though is why even bother with stainless?

Because it's shiny and purdy.

 

[McLompoc]

Greatest avatar ever! And stainless FTW!!

 

[day_trippr]

Because it's shiny and purdy.

Damn! That's so bright I need to wear shades!

Cheers!

 

[sonex]

I don't know why so many people say aluminum easily pits. I used a aluminum pot for years and cleaned it with oxy and never had pitting issues. I have since moved to a larger keggel with a element in it for boiling and see little difference in cleaning. now I want to do 15 gal batches so I will be going to a 100 qt kettle and will probably buy aluminum b/c of the expense of ss. Installing a element is not a problem with weldless fittings. It basically comes down to what you can afford, both will get the job done.

 

[Brulosopher]

I don't know why so many people say aluminum easily pits. I used a aluminum pot for years and cleaned it with oxy and never had pitting issues. I have since moved to a larger keggel with a element in it for boiling and see little difference in cleaning. now I want to do 15 gal batches so I will be going to a 100 qt kettle and will probably buy aluminum b/c of the expense of ss. Installing a element is not a problem with weldless fittings. It basically comes down to what you can afford, both will get the job done.

Mind sharing with me your process for installing an element?

 

[weirdboy]

Why do you guys even get so anal about cleaning kettles? I was my pot with hot water and a sponge. I don't want to remove protective layer in it. I mean you are boiling wort for at least 60 minutes. What more do you need?

I don't care so much about the pot, which is easy to clean, as I do about the pump, chiller, and hoses. The bk holds the solution when it is being recirculated.

 

[sonex]

brightspot happy to help. drill a hole in the pot. purchase a weldless 1 inch nut with o-ring from bargain fitting and install the element through the hole. use a metal electrical box to cover the terminals. I use J B weld to attach the box to pot. I used this method on my kettle and it has held strong for the two years I have used it. make sure the box contacts the pot well so you can ground to the ground screw in the box. use high temp caulk to seal any areas that may allow boil over to get in the electrical box.

 

[Beezy]

I don't care so much about the pot, which is easy to clean, as I do about the pump, chiller, and hoses. The bk holds the solution when it is being recirculated.

I read you loud and clear. I don't have all that fancy crap. Didn't even think about it.

 

[yorkbrew]

I've experimented with PBW, oxyclean, and a oxyclean TSP (sodium metasilicate) mix in an old aluminum turkey fryer pot I no longer use.

I've found that, at least at suggested mix ratios, none of the above cleaners pit or damage the aluminum for at least 10-15 minutes. I haven't tried any longer than that. When mixed with hot water that contact time seems sufficient to remove pretty much all gunk hanging around. Honestly, hot water and a brush is usually sufficient to remove 98% of everything left in the boil kettle.

To hear people talk, PBW would eat through aluminum like acetone through a stryofoam cup. That's not true in my experience. The PBW will blacken the pot if it does anything but I've found that wort itself will (and has) done that.

Perhaps you're making the solution ridiculously strong and/or letting it soak for hours or overnight.

I have a 20gal aluminum kettle I plan to use in the new rig and plan to do CIP based on the aforementioned tests I've done with my old turkey fryer. Do what you like and if anyone ruins their pot with PBW, don't blame me. Caveat emptor.

Normally I stick with hot water and a good scrub as well. I like to get a better clean after several brews though so I use some kind of chemical. I inadvertently left the PBW in contact with my pot for about two hours. I was also probably using a too much.

I'm not too bummed about it at this point because I'm getting my SS kettles online and soon I'll bask in their mirror like finish.

 

[BigUgly]

Even if Aluminum had a thermal resistance of zero, the only way a tri-clad kettle could be more efficient than a full stainless kettle would be if the combined thickness of the two stainless layers was thinner than the thickness of the comparable full stainless kettle. That doesn't sound like A Good Thing to me.

Exactly.

Hunter

 

[thargrav]

I can say that when I brewed in stanless I had a scorching problem and I have no scorching problem with my tri-metal bottomed pot. Also, a friend who bought a Blichmann pot earlier this year has signs of scorched wurt on the inside of his pot. In other words the superior conductivity of the aluminum is spreading the heat across the bottom of the pot.

Also the walls and bottom layer of my tri-metal pot are very thin, probably thinner than a good all stainless steel pot.

If you want to look at the science side of thermal conductivity, aluminum has a rating of 225 while stainless steel only has a rating of 16. The excellent thermal conductivity of aluminum is only exceeded by Silver (at 429) and Copper (at 401) and Gold (at 310).

 

[McCuckerson]

If you want to look at the science side of thermal conductivity, aluminum has a rating of 225 while stainless steel only has a rating of 16. The excellent thermal conductivity of aluminum is only exceeded by Silver (at 429) and Copper (at 401) and Gold (at 310).

This only applies to conductance ie propane. If you are an electric Brewer, the poor conductance actually works for you. I know because my hlt is al aly while mlt and BK is St stl

 

[SpottedDogBrewing]

I have a 40 gallon aluminum kettle and have had no issues!!

Sent from my iPhone using HB Talk

 

[McCuckerson]

I have a 40 gallon aluminum kettle and have had no issues!!

Sent from my iPhone using HB Talk

Nice, my next purchase will be a 25gal al kettle. Price is definitely the determining factor.

 

[McCuckerson]

I read you loud and clear. I don't have all that fancy crap. Didn't even think about it.

I worked in a commercial kitchen for 5 years. They DON'T use stainless stock pots, the large ones were all aluminum. They simply don't use them. I cannot believe this debate is still going on

 

[thargrav]

This only applies to conductance ie propane. If you are an electric Brewer, the poor conductance actually works for you. I know because my hlt is al aly while mlt and BK is St stl

With heat conductance is conductance but I can see how stainless will help keep your HLT temperatre more stable - beeing a much poorer conductor of heat you don't loose as much heat through the walls of the tank as you would with aluminum. You are probably heating the tank with imersion heaters.