Which yeast is your favorite dry yeast for making mead?

[NeverDie]

Brilliant, let us know how it turns out! It was also on my list for my next non-wild mead

Sure. You should probably try it anyway though just in case I get an atypical result with it, because I have no way to check for that.

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I wasn't previously particularly interested in 71B, but now that I'm hearing about how it's used by the pro's and is a lot more predictable than some of the others, I'll be paying more attention to how it turns out.

 

[Miraculix]

Sure. You should probably try it anyway though just in case I get an atypical result with it, because I have no way to check for that.

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I wasn't previously particularly interested in 71B, but now that I'm hearing about how it's used by the pro's and is a lot more predictable than some of the others, I'll be paying more attention to how it turns out.

I agree. I have some prior experience with wine yeasts (before I really got sucked into the beer thing) and I remeber HORRIBEL flocculation, therefore I neglected all wine yeasts. But reading the same stuff you read makes me wonder if it might be worth the extra time it needs to settle.

 

[NeverDie]

I agree. I have some prior experience with wine yeasts (before I really got sucked into the beer thing) and I remeber HORRIBEL flocculation, therefore I neglected all wine yeasts. But reading the same stuff you read makes me wonder if it might be worth the extra time it needs to settle.

Seems like the only way to know for sure is to try it for oneself, which is why I'm doing this shootout. I got tired of reading all the vague online descriptions and then feeling like I still couldn't be sure one way or the other.

This is my first experience with 1388, and so far I'm liking what I see. If it turns out that m31 is the same, or at least very similar, but in dry form, that could be a big win.

I've also been pleasantly impressed with Wyeast Sweet Mead. I'd love to find it or an equivalent in dry form. Anyone know if there is such a thing in the market?

I did find a website that was selling some kveik's in dry form, but it appears they are all sold out at the moment.

 

[NeverDie]

I just now found a comparison of 12 different mead yeasts, similar to the way I am doing my comparison, has already been done: http://www.homebrewersassociation.o...st-Experiment-AHA-Research-Education-Fund.pdf

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Not sure if it helps at all, but according to this chart: https://www.homebrewsupply.com/learn/yeast-comparison-charts.html
S04 is the same as Wyeast Whitbread 1099

Don't believe everything you read on the internet. S-04 has been linked to Whitbread for ages, but sequencing of its DNA has shown that it's most closely related to WLP006 Bedford and WLP013 London.

People in this thread might be interested in something I posted a while back, I was looking at wine yeasts from a beer POV so was mostly interested in POF-ness and killer status, but the Gallo/Stanford paper I link to looked at levels of a whole load of metabolites from different wine yeasts in Chardonnay must. You might be able to extrapolate a bit to some of the rare wine yeasts based on your experience of how the standard yeasts perform in mead versus their reported behaviour in Chardonnay.

 

[NeverDie]

Watched a youtube of Schramm, and he says 71B is his "go to" yeast for mead. From watching some other youtube's of other pro mead makers, I get the impression it's popular for commercial mead producers to use.



By the way, Schramm says for sweet meads he starts with a very high gravity must and let's it ferment to completion, so not at all the ferment dry and then backsweeten approach that loveofroses seems to like. He says that 71B is tolerant of a very high OG, whereas some other yeasts can't really handle it well.

Part of what was uplifting about that video is that Schramm more or less says that if you're willing to buy the best possible ingredients, then in principle you too can brew world class meads at home for much less than what you can buy them for commercially. I am hopeful this is true! Certainly for less than cost of buying a Schramm mead, I can buy pretty much any of the best honeys out there. Also, he points out that homebrewers have far more flexibiity than commercial brewers, who have to turnover their fermentation tanks as quickly as possible to maximize their profits.

In contrast, I don't think the same can be said for making wine, for instance, where access to the best wine grapes is a major barrier.

 

[Miraculix]

Does anybody know good meads from the uk?

 

[NeverDie]

Upon further reading-up, it appears that Texas, where I live, may be one of the retarded states that may not allow me to receive mead shipped to me, unless the seller jumps through red tape, which I don't think they will. Damn! Is there any practical workaround to this?

About all I can think of is that maybe I could have it shipped to out-of-state relatives in one of the non-retarded states and then maybe I retrieve it the next time I visit them. That would at least be easier than travelling to Detroit, but talk about cumbersome! What are we here, North Korea?

 

[Maylar]

Connecticut is like that too. We can't buy any liquor that's not on the "list". Sellers have to submit an application to the state to be approved. I want to get some of B. Nektar's Zombie Killer (from Michigan) and have to drive to Massachusetts to get it. Even the package stores can't get it for me.

 

[NeverDie]

So, there is no red-tape cutting solution? Some re-shipper that, for a fee, has specialized in handling red tape so as to be fully compliant? In the convoluted world of Texas, if the winery were to send it, it would be OK. However, it's not OK for a wholesaler/distributor to send it. Go figure.

Bah! I may have to cancel my order. I'm just surprised the seller's website didn't reject it out of hand.

What's the worst that can happen? Would it get impounded and destroyed? Or would FedEx return it to the shipper?

Well, yet another reason to make my own mead!

 

[Maylar]

Dunno about the Lone Star State, but here in CT the "red tape" involves submitting their labels for approval. Not something that can be circumvented with a fee. Web sites I've visited typically have either a list of states they'll ship to or a locator of wine/liquor stores that carry their stuff.

edit: According to Schramm's web site they don't ship anywhere. It's pickup only.

 

[NeverDie]

edit: According to Schramm's web site they don't ship anywhere. It's pickup only.

Yes, exactly. That's what forced me to go to a distributor who handles their stuff.

Well, I guess I'll have to cancel it and just wait for when I next visit my out-of-state relatives.

 

[NeverDie]

Status update: I received the Fresco cider yeast and started it fermenting yesterday evening. Comes in nice little vials instead of packets.

So, all yeasts are currently fermenting, except for M31 Mangrove Jack, which I'm waiting to receive.

 

[Miraculix]

****. That ducks

Status update: I received the Fresco cider yeast and started it fermenting yesterday evening. Comes in nice little vials instead of packets.

So, all yeasts are currently fermenting, except for M31 Mangrove Jack, which I'm waiting to receive.

I can't wait to hear results on all of them!

 

[Shine0n]

I always go to the scott lab handbook for yeast specks, also batchbuilder will help you dial in.

They ask either low, med or high so if in doubt go med and never go past the 1/3 depletion with them.

I only use fermaid O and batchbuilder does both ferm k and o in the calc. Just use the option of which on you have.

 

[NeverDie]

I always go to the scott lab handbook for yeast specks, also batchbuilder will help you dial in.

They ask either low, med or high so if in doubt go med and never go past the 1/3 depletion with them.

I only use fermaid O and batchbuilder does both ferm k and o in the calc. Just use the option of which on you have.

What do you mean when you say "never go past the 1/3 depletion with them"?

 

[bob1852]

What do you mean when you say "never go past the 1/3 depletion with them"?

Don't add additional nutrients once you've reached the 1/3rd sugar break.

Meaning, when 1/3rd of the sugars are consumed, you don't add more.

Example, if your OG is 1.100 and your expected FG is 1.000, you have 100 points of sugar. 1/3rd is 33. So when your gravity is 1.066 (100 - 33), you don't add more nutrient.

It gets a little more complicated, as you have to guess FG, but the math winds up being pretty simple.

 

[NeverDie]

Don't add additional nutrients once you've reached the 1/3rd sugar break.

Meaning, when 1/3rd of the sugars are consumed, you don't add more.

Example, if your OG is 1.100 and your expected FG is 1.000, you have 100 points of sugar. 1/3rd is 33. So when your gravity is 1.066 (100 - 33), you don't add more nutrient.

It gets a little more complicated, as you have to guess FG, but the math winds up being pretty simple.

I should be OK then. I've been following the 6b DLNA protocol outlined here: https://denardbrewing.com/blog/post/brays-one-month-mead/

About half the yeasts are now under airlock, and the other half have not yet reached the 1/3 sugar break mark, so they aren't yet under airlock--just under loose lids.

 

[Maylar]

Status update: I received the Fresco cider yeast and started it fermenting yesterday evening. Comes in nice little vials instead of packets.

Got mine too. One of the local farm stands (a very fancy one) opens for the season March 16, I'm gonna visit and see if they have any of last year's cider. Wanna get a cyser started.

 

[NeverDie]

Update: On my first two failed attempts, I rehydrated the K1v-1116 yeast according to the directions on the package. On my third attempt, though, I just pitched it directly with no rehydration, and that seems to be working without going sulfurous (well, so far at least). It's now under airlock, so I won't know more until it completely finishes fermentation in, I'm guessing, about 2 to 4 weeks from now.

 

[NeverDie]

I know that JOAM is meant to uses bread yeast, but has anyone here tried any other yeast strains on the same recipe and gotten even better results? If so, which yeasts turn out especially well?

 

[Maylar]

In the cases I've seen, using something else results in a crappy mead. Typically other yeasts take it dry and anything less than about 1.010 is bitter as hell because of the orange pith. Some people fix that by not using the pith, starting at a lower OG, fermenting dry and back sweetening. Pick a yeast that compliments citrus flavors.

But to your point, anything that quits at about 12% should work.

 

[NeverDie]

Just a couple quick updates:

The Fresco seems to be performing well and is already under airlock. As expected, not even a hint of H2S.

The Belle Saison has a very different kind of aroma: smells peppery and even a bit like olives. It maybe needs a much more fragrant honey to balance it out. Or, maybe it's destined for a capsicumel? It also went under airlock today, as per the BOMM protocol.

 

[CKuhns]

JAOM trust me don`t mess with it. (Dont ask me how i know) It works as is. Just so happens im drinking one started in October 2016 bottled in Jan 2017. Didn`t touch it till Jan 18 and each 3 months after. Really glad i waited for it to age out. It is pretty darned good.

 

[z-bob]

In the cases I've seen, using something else results in a crappy mead. Typically other yeasts take it dry and anything less than about 1.010 is bitter as hell because of the orange pith. Some people fix that by not using the pith, starting at a lower OG, fermenting dry and back sweetening. Pick a yeast that compliments citrus flavors.

But to your point, anything that quits at about 12% should work.

If you use tangerines or kumquats instead of oranges it might work with a different yeast. (tangerines are a *lot* cheaper unless you have your own kumquat tree) Neither of them has bitter pith. I haven't made JAOM, but I've read about it and I agree with "don't mess with it".

 

[Maylar]

JAOM trust me don`t mess with it. (Don't ask me how I know) It works as is. Just so happens I'm drinking one started in October 2016 bottled in Jan 2017. Didn`t touch it till Jan 18 and each 3 months after. Really glad i waited for it to age out. It is pretty darned good.

It's a novelty mead, but I like it too. It gets better with time and at about 8 months the flavors meld and the orange aroma is just wonderful. Though with what I now know about making mead I'm tempted to make one with modern protocols and see if it can be even better.

 

[Maylar]

Seems like the only way to know for sure is to try it for oneself, which is why I'm doing this shootout. I got tired of reading all the vague online descriptions and then feeling like I still couldn't be sure one way or the other.

Have you given any thought yet about how you will classify or judge the results of your yeast experiments? Like, at the end of it all what criteria would make one "better" than another?

 

[NeverDie]

Have you given any thought yet about how you will classify or judge the results of your yeast experiments? Like, at the end of it all what criteria would make one "better" than another?

Not much. I'm open to suggestions.

Update: everything but M31 has passed its second sugar break and is now under airlock. Still waiting to receive M31.

 

[NeverDie]

Have you given any thought yet about how you will classify or judge the results of your yeast experiments? Like, at the end of it all what criteria would make one "better" than another?

I think step #1 will be to sort out the obvious failures and set them aside (permanently). Then, depending on how many are left, decide what to do. Anyhow, that's my current plan, but like I say, I welcome suggestions.

 

[Maylar]

I think step #1 will be to sort out the obvious failures and set them aside (permanently). Then, depending on how many are left, decide what to do. Anyhow, that's much current plan, but like I say, I welcome suggestions.

This has all been on your nickel, so you should be making a list of what it is that you had hoped to discover. Your criteria might be different than someone else's.

You're making what's called a traditional mead - honey, water, and yeast. What you're going to end up with will be dry and probably a bit tart and acidic. It takes a trained palette to discern the often subtle differences that the yeasts contributed to the final result. This is all about sensory perception, and I'm guessing that you're as clueless as I am about being able to quantify that. (I hope I'm wrong here). It's also a function of the honey, and how each yeast contributed or detracted from the honey's character.

I guess that on a gross scale, you'll be able to tell if each yeast was at least successful. Final gravity, H2S production, flocculation... what else? But can you identify "esters"? I had to Google that to even know what they are.